Why I'm switching BACK to Honda oil

[flynrider]

I had a long talk with my dealer, who by trade is a mechanic, with oil choices.

Since the last chain-drive Japanese machine I owned, I was converted to Mobil 1. No, it doesn't work miracles. It doesn't cure halitosis and the heartbreak of psoriasis. No, it's not to be added to the crankcase, the the gas tank, the fork tubes and the chain. It's just an improvement on nature, by controlling the molecular quality of the lubricant - by molecule; and after a lower-end failure on an engine in a GM car, I avoid both GM cars and conventional oils.

BUT.

I'd forgotten about the wet clutch pack. BMWs, of course, have a single-plate, dry automotive-style clutch. They have a gearbox with its own lubrication. Not so a Honda, with a wet clutch and transmission all lubed by crankcase oil.

DO NOT use automotive synthetics, he warned. He says there's a synthetic for cycles with wet clutches, but he doesn't know enough to recommend it.

And I'll accept that. I don't like going back to dino-oil; but - as with so many complex items and their needs - there is no "better" lubricant. There is only the lubricant with qualities the machine was engineered for; and lubricants that are out of specification for its needs.

Just look for the JASO-MA/MA2 spec on synthetics. That'll cover you on the wet clutch issue. There are a lot of choices out there.

 

[kDiqq_imp]

I had a long talk with my dealer, who by trade is a mechanic, with oil choices.

Since the last chain-drive Japanese machine I owned, I was converted to Mobil 1. No, it doesn't work miracles. It doesn't cure halitosis and the heartbreak of psoriasis. No, it's not to be added to the crankcase, the the gas tank, the fork tubes and the chain. It's just an improvement on nature, by controlling the molecular quality of the lubricant - by molecule; and after a lower-end failure on an engine in a GM car, I avoid both GM cars and conventional oils.

BUT.

I'd forgotten about the wet clutch pack. BMWs, of course, have a single-plate, dry automotive-style clutch. They have a gearbox with its own lubrication. Not so a Honda, with a wet clutch and transmission all lubed by crankcase oil.

DO NOT use automotive synthetics, he warned. He says there's a synthetic for cycles with wet clutches, but he doesn't know enough to recommend it.

And I'll accept that. I don't like going back to dino-oil; but - as with so many complex items and their needs - there is no "better" lubricant. There is only the lubricant with qualities the machine was engineered for; and lubricants that are out of specification for its needs.

Just look for the JASO-MA/MA2 spec on synthetics. That'll cover you on the wet clutch issue. There are a lot of choices out there.

Just look for the JASO-MA/MA2 spec on synthetics. That'll cover you on the wet clutch issue. There are a lot of choices out there. ^This. Stay regular on your intervals and you'll be fine. If you want the best for your intervals, there is loads of hard data on the net on which oils are best. Some oils are better than others. Though suggesting one oil is best is like suggesting your religion is wrong, your mother raised you poorly, and you need a new haircut all at once. Using any will known 'good' oil will yield desirable results in the long run regardless of brand.

 

[jp4141432_imp]

Like-for-2014 CB1100 AMSOIL 10W30 MCT

 

[Motogeezer1949_imp]

Still with the 10w40 Amsoil here in FL. and assorted trips around the southeast. 17k miles. No issues.

 

[dave]

I have used the Honda, 10W-30, full synthetic motor oil since my first oil change (9K miles now) and my engine makes that disturbing clicking / tapping noise when first starting it (when cold). I believe this is the exact same sound other members have reported. The noise stops after roughly 60 seconds, so I have ignored it.

 

[redbirds_imp]

It's an air cooled motor, the type make strange noises. Years ago strange engine noises were not heard because exhaust sound was louder thus ignored.

 

[jp4141432_imp]

SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40
Stupid 7 ** KM accelerate missing



Red Line REDLINE 10W30,
ultra-light summer urban pull turn, serious card file
7 ** KM miss

 

[kmoney_imp]

SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40
Stupid 7 ** KM accelerate missing



Red Line REDLINE 10W30,
ultra-light summer urban pull turn, serious card file
7 ** KM miss

Is that tank silver/dark grey, or is it just the lighting?

 

[hdvalente_imp]

SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40
Stupid 7 ** KM accelerate missing



Red Line REDLINE 10W30,
ultra-light summer urban pull turn, serious card file
7 ** KM miss

Did you have issues with those two oil brands?

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[jp4141432_imp]

TO:kmoney

His color gray








TO:hdvalente

Hello urban exercise serious traffic jam card file
REDLINE 10W30
SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40




AMSOIL MCT 10W30 for a smooth shift with light

 

[the Ferret]

I have a feeling google translate might be getting involved here.

 

[hdvalente_imp]

Indeed, but I believe he is trying to say the other two didn't work very well in a traffic jam situation, maybe?

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[jp4141432_imp]

Taiwan's urban areas with traffic congestion

REDLINE 10W30 not good
SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40 not good

AMSOIL MCT 10W30 very good
stalls smooth engine light Fast heat dissipation



Indeed, but I believe he is trying to say the other two didn't work very well in a traffic jam situation, maybe?

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


YES

 

[hdvalente_imp]

Taiwan's urban areas with traffic congestion

REDLINE 10W30 not good
SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4T 10W40 not good

AMSOIL MCT 10W30 very good
stalls smooth engine light Fast heat dissipation



Indeed, but I believe he is trying to say the other two didn't work very well in a traffic jam situation, maybe?

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


YES

Thank you for the information!

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[rboe]

Just did my oil; picked the same Honda syn-blend 10W40 oil I used before. 10W40 because of the low miles I put on per year puts me in the middle of summer and the high heats. No complaints so far - but then again only some serious testing with many more miles of abuse.

Personal experience: I really like and have had great service from sun-blend oils. And changing oil often on a regular basis. Some bikes are very hard on their oils and should be changed a lot more often than folks think (my XR650L before the oil cooler was added destroys oils -all oils - at around 500 miles).

My biggest concern; my new truck has a built in app that indicates oil life vs. just changing it when you think service or miles indicate to. Do I trust it? I'll probably chicken out and change before the app thinks I should.

 

[the Ferret]

If its any consolation Rboe our Honda cars have that feature. We take them in when the light says to and my wife's Accord had racked up 220,000 trouble free miles. My Civic before it 200,000 trouble free miles before I sold it to a friend who is still driving it 3 years later, the Civic before that 197,000 trouble free miles before I sold it. My current Honda truck only has 38,000 miles on it but will get treated similarly.

 

[68lupe_imp]

I also have that slight weep but only after I switched over to the Honda 10W30 synthetic oil. Usually won't show up until I've ridden 60-70 miles, then it's noticeable. I've checked all bolts to make sure they are tight. I'd like to go back to the Honda recommended 4stroke motor oil to see if that will alleviate the problem. Anyone know if switching back will have an adverse affect on my bike?

 

[spacetiger_imp]

I have sweating around the upper fins only on the left side of the engine. You can see in the pic after only a warm-up and 10mile ride residue on the fins. It will make its way down to the 2nd or 3rd fin and work its way around the side to the rear of the fins. One other member has had the same problem in the exact same spot. Could have been a bad run in manufacturing. I live with it for now since its not really a problem YET!!!

Edit: I use only Honda 10-30 full synthetic oil, don't think the oil you use created this problem.

Just curious, have you checked the torque values on your fasteners on and around the heads?

Jerry

 

[68lupe_imp]

Jerry -
I did not check them because I don't have a torque wrench to get in there. But I did put a wrench on them & they appear to be good & tight. I just find it odd it didn't do this until I switched over to the full synthetic oil & my problem looks like your pictures along with others I've seen. But, on the other hand, sometimes after riding 30-40 miles around town, it won't do it at all. Yesterday, I rode about 100 miles, at times up to 75 mph & had a little weep about mid-point - wiped it off & it didn't come back. So I think I am gonna switch back w/in the next couple of weeks & see how it does.

 

[capttwb136_imp]

I don't usually comment on oil threads but from my experience using the recommended oil and changing at the recommended interval have always worked fine for my situation. I used conventional oil in a Toyota Corolla that I had for over 20 years. It began to use a little oil at about 180,000 miles. I'd say a quart or so between changes every 7,500 miles. I tried the high mileage oil that most companies sell, and it was like the engine repaired itself, it hardly used half a quart between changes. I've never had a engine lose compression on me except a 5HP Honda engine that was on my pressure washer, my fault though, I neglected it for a few years. I bought a 6.5 HP replacement engine for 99 dollars from Harbor Freight, it bolted right up, I ran it for 3 hours with no load to break it in, changed the break in oil and it runs like a champ. I believe it's a Chinese built Honda clone.