Which oil at low miles

[Tortuga_imp]

Ok, I know I'm going to get shot for this (starting another dreaded oil thread) but I'm confused as to what I should use for my impending second service at 400 miles (lol).

I'm sure the dealer either didn't do a service at 100 or if they did just chucked some bulk tank crap in.

I saw various 10-30W motorcycle specific oils on eBay, however some are fully synth and others part. I'm under the impression fully synth is for higher mileage bikes, so I need part synth, but.....

Would I be ok to use Castrol or Rock Oil semi synth 10-30W motorcycle oil or will my head explode if I don't use Honda branded oil, which seems to be rare on my Island.

 

[the Ferret]

BANG...... Plop

 

[Tortuga_imp]

BANG...... Plop

 

[the Ferret]

Ok here is the DEFINITIVE word on which oil is APPROVED for your CB 1100

API Service Classification SG or higher EXCEPT oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label, SAE 10W30, JASO T 903 standard MA Pro Honda GN4 4 stoke oil ( USA and Canada) or Honda 4 stroke oil, or an equivalent motorcycle oil

If using other than Honda engine oil, check the lable to make sure that the oil satisfies all of the following standards

JASO T 903 standard MA
SAE standard 10W30
API classification SG or higher

The highlighted one below



This is what the manufacturer recommends. Anything other than that falls under the opinion category.

It can't be that hard to find a gallon of Honda GN4 10w30 no matter what country you are in.

 

[Tortuga_imp]

Thank you Mr Ferret.



Thank you Mr Ferret.

 

[paulcb1100_imp]

Ok, I know I'm going to get shot for this (starting another dreaded oil thread) but I'm confused as to what I should use for my impending second service at 400 miles (lol).

I'm sure the dealer either didn't do a service at 100 or if they did just chucked some bulk tank crap in.

I saw various 10-30W motorcycle specific oils on eBay, however some are fully synth and others part. I'm under the impression fully synth is for higher mileage bikes, so I need part synth, but.....

Would I be ok to use Castrol or Rock Oil semi synth 10-30W motorcycle oil or will my head explode if I don't use Honda branded oil, which seems to be rare on my Island.

Hi Tortuga. Paul Here. I'm new to this forum but have been riding for many years. This is only my opinion and the way I break in New Engines.
During your engines brake in period, you want parts to mate/seal and wear in. As an example, the Pistons Rings, need to wear/polish the cylinder walls they ride against. This ensures good compression develops and long engine life. The cylinder walls are "Cross Hatched" honed, that is you could say, roughed up, to ensure the rings "seat" and form a good seal against the cylinder walls during brake in.
Oil technology has come so far as the years went by. The oils have become so good, that fully synthetic oil could hinder or at least prolong this seating and brake in. I use the the oil Honda recommends but the non synthetic. In my opinion this ensures good brake in as parts wear in. This has worked well for me over the years. As the miles increase, I sometimes switch to fully synthetic depending on my bike and use at the time. Please follow Honda's Recommendations for your new bike, and have fun.

 

[redbirds_imp]

I've used full synthetic oils for the last several years in all my cars, trucks and motorcycles from the first oil change on. Have never had an issue with oil usage in any of them. I changed to Honda Synthetic 10W-30 at the first oil change and will stay with it or an equivalent motorcycle synthetic oil. I expect to have the same trouble free performance I've had in all my other vehicles.

The non synthetics are fine also I think they just need to be changed more often because of faster viscosity breakdown compared to synthetic oils.

 

[Red Mist_imp]

Ok, I know I'm going to get shot for this (starting another dreaded oil thread) but I'm confused as to what I should use for my impending second service at 400 miles (lol).

I'm sure the dealer either didn't do a service at 100 or if they did just chucked some bulk tank crap in.

I saw various 10-30W motorcycle specific oils on eBay, however some are fully synth and others part. I'm under the impression fully synth is for higher mileage bikes, so I need part synth, but.....

Would I be ok to use Castrol or Rock Oil semi synth 10-30W motorcycle oil or will my head explode if I don't use Honda branded oil, which seems to be rare on my Island.

Hi Tortuga. Paul Here. I'm new to this forum but have been riding for many years. This is only my opinion and the way I break in New Engines.
During your engines brake in period, you want parts to mate/seal and wear in. As an example, the Pistons Rings, need to wear/polish the cylinder walls they ride against. This ensures good compression develops and long engine life. The cylinder walls are "Cross Hatched" honed, that is you could say, roughed up, to ensure the rings "seat" and form a good seal against the cylinder walls during brake in.
Oil technology has come so far as the years went by. The oils have become so good, that fully synthetic oil could hinder or at least prolong this seating and brake in. I use the the oil Honda recommends but the non synthetic. In my opinion this ensures good brake in as parts wear in. This has worked well for me over the years. As the miles increase, I sometimes switch to fully synthetic depending on my bike and use at the time. Please follow Honda's Recommendations for your new bike, and have fun.

Yes.:clap:

I've used full synthetic oils for the last several years in all my cars, trucks and motorcycles from the first oil change on. Have never had an issue with oil usage in any of them. I changed to Honda Synthetic 10W-30 at the first oil change and will stay with it or an equivalent motorcycle synthetic oil. I expect to have the same trouble free performance I've had in all my other vehicles.

The non synthetics are fine also I think they just need to be changed more often because of faster viscosity breakdown compared to synthetic oils.

A different way to express that is that synthetics can "theoretically" go well beyond the recommended oil change intervals. The interval in the specifications is based on petroleum-based oil. An interval for synthetic oil is not available. So there is no advantage to synthetic in that sense, as one would be voiding the warranty by going longer than the specified time between oil changes. Honda will want receipts or other proof of proper servicing.

The idea is that synthetic does not break down as quickly, but in our motorcycle, the clutch subjects the oil to additional stresses and contaminants, so the conservative approach of sticking with the manual's recommendations serves well.

 

[paulcb1100_imp]

Hi Guys Paul again. Good discussion. I should have added the Phrase to my previous post, Non synthetic during engine break in. After the break in period in my opinion full synthetic is fine. I personally like to allow several thousand miles to accumulate before switching to synthetic. That's just me. The synthetic oils were developed long ago to cope with the extreme high temperatures encountered in aircraft turbine engines.
If you do decide to go with full synthetic, Make sure you use what Honda Recommends.

 

[flynrider]

Ok, I know I'm going to get shot for this (starting another dreaded oil thread) but I'm confused as to what I should use for my impending second service at 400 miles (lol).

I'm sure the dealer either didn't do a service at 100 or if they did just chucked some bulk tank crap in.

I saw various 10-30W motorcycle specific oils on eBay, however some are fully synth and others part. I'm under the impression fully synth is for higher mileage bikes, so I need part synth, but.....

Would I be ok to use Castrol or Rock Oil semi synth 10-30W motorcycle oil or will my head explode if I don't use Honda branded oil, which seems to be rare on my Island.

Hi Tortuga. Paul Here. I'm new to this forum but have been riding for many years. This is only my opinion and the way I break in New Engines.
During your engines brake in period, you want parts to mate/seal and wear in. As an example, the Pistons Rings, need to wear/polish the cylinder walls they ride against. This ensures good compression develops and long engine life. The cylinder walls are "Cross Hatched" honed, that is you could say, roughed up, to ensure the rings "seat" and form a good seal against the cylinder walls during brake in.
Oil technology has come so far as the years went by. The oils have become so good, that fully synthetic oil could hinder or at least prolong this seating and brake in. I use the the oil Honda recommends but the non synthetic. In my opinion this ensures good brake in as parts wear in. This has worked well for me over the years. As the miles increase, I sometimes switch to fully synthetic depending on my bike and use at the time. Please follow Honda's Recommendations for your new bike, and have fun.

Yes.:clap:

I've used full synthetic oils for the last several years in all my cars, trucks and motorcycles from the first oil change on. Have never had an issue with oil usage in any of them. I changed to Honda Synthetic 10W-30 at the first oil change and will stay with it or an equivalent motorcycle synthetic oil. I expect to have the same trouble free performance I've had in all my other vehicles.

The non synthetics are fine also I think they just need to be changed more often because of faster viscosity breakdown compared to synthetic oils.

A different way to express that is that synthetics can "theoretically" go well beyond the recommended oil change intervals. The interval in the specifications is based on petroleum-based oil. An interval for synthetic oil is not available. So there is no advantage to synthetic in that sense, as one would be voiding the warranty by going longer than the specified time between oil changes. Honda will want receipts or other proof of proper servicing.

The idea is that synthetic does not break down as quickly, but in our motorcycle, the clutch subjects the oil to additional stresses and contaminants, so the conservative approach of sticking with the manual's recommendations serves well.

It's not just the clutch, but also the transmission. As the oil is squashed between the gears, it breaks down the polymer chains in a multiweight oil which affects the viscosity (this is called shearing). Higher temperatures typically encountered in an air cooled engine also tend to break down the base oil.

If you want to know what is real going on in your crankcase, there's no substitute for oil analysis. I was concerned about my oil (in the CB750) due operating in 100+ degree temperatures much of the year. Between the shearing and the excessive heat, I was suspicious that my oil might be breaking down. After a few rounds of oil analysis, I found that my JASO-MA dino oil was indeed breaking down prematurely. After 1500 miles of cooking and churning in the summer heat, my 15w-40 oil had been reduced to a 20 weight at 100C. I've since switched to synthetic, which has a base oil that is more resistant to heat related break down. I'll be doing a few more analysis runs this summer to see if the synth helps.

I suspect that if you ride in more reasonable temperatures, dino or synth will probably hold up OK between regular change intervals. An oil analysis will let you know for sure.

 

[gary_imp]

I just purchase this for the break in period.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61FHwoOGhmL._SL1500_.jpg

Seemed like a good way to go if you don't mind how much it costs... ouch.

 

[Deanohh_imp]

I just purchase this for the break in period.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61FHwoOGhmL._SL1500_.jpg

Seemed like a good way to go if you don't mind how much it costs... ouch.

some experts say that high amounts of Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates will destroy your catalytic converter.

 

[flynrider]

I just purchase this for the break in period.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61FHwoOGhmL._SL1500_.jpg

Seemed like a good way to go if you don't mind how much it costs... ouch.

some experts say that high amounts of Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates will destroy your catalytic converter.

Chemically speaking, they have a point. But that assumes that significant quantities of oil are getting past the rings and being burned. The CB1100 engine is pretty tight. I didn't notice any oil burn during the break-in period.

 

[wayne van horn_imp]

that oil is for high rpm racing engines, cb1100 is not that motorcycle.

 

[Blockhead_imp]

*Sigh*...I use whatever oil the owners manual calls for. Their engineers have this stuff figured out and the last thing Honda or any other manufacturer wants to do is have to cover the cost of warranty work for a failed engine etc...am I missing something with that line of thinking?

 

[redbirds_imp]

*Sigh*...I use whatever oil the owners manual calls for. Their engineers have this stuff figured out and the last thing Honda or any other manufacturer wants to do is have to cover the cost of warranty work for a failed engine etc...am I missing something with that line of thinking?

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.

 

[Tortuga_imp]

*Sigh*...I use whatever oil the owners manual calls for. Their engineers have this stuff figured out and the last thing Honda or any other manufacturer wants to do is have to cover the cost of warranty work for a failed engine etc...am I missing something with that line of thinking?

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.
I love it..hehe.

I noticed the owners manual (which I still haven't opened, I read a PDF version on here briefly) states that you must NOT use vegetable oil in the engine. That could have solved the whole debate since I believe corn oil only comes in one grade.

 

[the Ferret]

We need a banging head on wall emoticon for the moderator lol

 

[Red Mist_imp]

I just purchase this for the break in period.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61FHwoOGhmL._SL1500_.jpg

Seemed like a good way to go if you don't mind how much it costs... ouch.

It won't hurt anything, but that oil is designed for a "quick" break-in, that is, a couple of track sessions, rather than the methodical, even-handed method we've all used in carefully settling in the clearances on our beloved, classic, air-cooled babies.

Well, some of us.:rofl:

Keep in mind one thing, too; the engines for which that break-in oil was formulated were not meant to last too long before tear-down. Excessive lubrication during break-in, for a road-going vehicle, is not necessarily a good thing. It could prevent parts from properly mating to one another.

I know that didn't sound right but there it is.

*Sigh*...I use whatever oil the owners manual calls for. Their engineers have this stuff figured out and the last thing Honda or any other manufacturer wants to do is have to cover the cost of warranty work for a failed engine etc...am I missing something with that line of thinking?

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.
I love it..hehe.

I noticed the owners manual (which I still haven't opened, I read a PDF version on here briefly) states that you must NOT use vegetable oil in the engine. That could have solved the whole debate since I believe corn oil only comes in one grade.

That kind of logic is far too sensible for an oil thread.
I love it..hehe.

I noticed the owners manual (which I still haven't opened, I read a PDF version on here briefly) states that you must NOT use vegetable oil in the engine. That could have solved the whole debate since I believe corn oil only comes in one grade. People just don't understand, we've got to "do something" (paraphrasing Aldous Snow, here). I suggest alternative lubricants, like the old, used, fryer oil found in drums behind Chinese restaurants. If we all converted to that stuff, the onset of Global Heating would be delayed by 0.000000001 seconds.

Have a care, folks, and save Spaceship Earth! You have been warned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:beerchug:

 

[dBuster_imp]

We need a banging head on wall emoticon for the moderator lol

Hope this works...

Looks like it isn't!!!!!!! *Banging my head on wall now*