Turn Signals/Hazard Lights - Not Blinking/Not Turning on

[mnm2008_imp]

I have a 2014 CB1100 and the Turn Signals/Hazard Lights - Not Blinking/Not Turning On.

Battery seems to be Ok (Head Lights.. etc) work as expected.

The first thing i wanted to check is the Fuse Box, But dont see any fuse for the Turn Signals??

The PO mentioned that he upgraded the turn signal lights to LED, Other than that do not know anything about the Turn Lights themselves.

Where should i start? Any ideas?

 

[redbirds_imp]

I would guess problem is a result of the previous owner's modifications. If new turn signal housings were wired in examine the wiring connections first.

 

[Lord Popgun]

First, can you read a wiring diagram?

Second, have they ever worked for you?

To add: the fuse is the Turn, Clock fuse G (10A) and Stop/Horn fuse E (10A). This from the service manual. Haven’t traced it out on the wiring diagram as I am trying to cook supper

 

[SportsterDoc]

Turns are on the same fuse as clock from previous research. I may need to update, based upon Popgun's post.

10 amp fuses stop/horn
10 amp fuses meter illumination
10 amp fuses headlight
10 amp fuses start
10 amp fuses turn/clock

LEDs need to have a resistor for most flashers to work.
A 6 ohm 50 watt resistor is the same as a standard bulb.

Were standard bulbs replaced with LED units or were the entire assemblies replaced? If the latter, what brand and model?

The stock front bulb is a single element.
Full voltage is used for turns and lower voltage for running light.

Is the turn signal position relay intact? It has two connectors of 4 wires, each.

 

[mnm2008_imp]

I have the CB for the past 2+ Years and the Turn Signals were working fine untill this week.
Will try replacing the Turn, Clock fuse G (10A).

The Headlights/Horn work just fine.

 

[SportsterDoc]

I have the CB for the past 2+ Years and the Turn Signals were working fine untill this week.
Will try replacing the Turn, Clock fuse G (10A).

The Headlights/Horn work just fine.

Does clock work?

 

[jtopiso_imp]

I have a 2014 CB1100 and the Turn Signals/Hazard Lights - Not Blinking/Not Turning On.

Battery seems to be Ok (Head Lights.. etc) work as expected.

The first thing i wanted to check is the Fuse Box, But dont see any fuse for the Turn Signals??

The PO mentioned that he upgraded the turn signal lights to LED, Other than that do not know anything about the Turn Lights themselves.

Where should i start? Any ideas?

Do you have LEDs or bulbs?

 

[max]

found this snippet, it may be that the positive wire ( of the indicator which may be green ) finally shorted causing the fuse to operate, just so you're aware;


"Flytech99 Offline
1st Service Completed

Utah
Posts: 125
Joined: Dec 2016
Post: #6
RE: Wiring diagram for turn signals.

(07-01-2015 04:24 AM)Elipten Wrote:
I found the colors reversed on my 2014 DLX, versus my 2013 Std. Voltmeter check helps. Critical for LEDs, but not normal light bulbs.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I apologize in advance for resurrecting an old thread, but this post is the only one my search came up with regarding the same issue I encountered today. During rear indicator replacement, I too found the rear wires on my DLX reversed in color (to what was in my '13 service manual - still waiting on '14 manual to arrive). Green was definitely the hot wire (two blown fuses and then meter verified - duh!).

I'm tearing into the fronts to replace them tomorrow... so the million dollar question is: are the colors reversed on those as well with green being 12V on the DLX?"


and the link with the solution towards the end of the thread;
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12307&pid=199015#pid199015

.

 

[Kodeman_imp]

OK so i recently purchased this bike and was hoping it was just a blown fuse but seems to be a bit more complicated. The turn signals are all(front and rear) aftermarket 3 wire signals. They have a Red Wire, Black Wire and a Black/White wire. The Black wire is left disconnected and i made sure its not touching a ground somewhere. When you start the bike the from turn signals turn on and stay on as running lights, The rears do nothing. The second you try to turn on the blinker the fuse blows. Any ideas?

 

[SportsterDoc]

Kodeman
What brand turns?
If no schematic from factory, disconnect and use an ohmmeter/continuity tester to determine what each color is:
1. Turn
2. Run
3. Ground

 

[Lord Popgun]

Kodeman’s problem is running in 2 threads now. Jumping around is going to make help, well, hard.

Anyway Kodeman, Front signals on for running and rears off is normal operation. Also troubleshooting a ‘custom’ wiring installation can be hard for us as we don’t know how it was done, or how proficiently the job was done.

But—Have they ever worked properly? If so, have you recently done/or added anything electrical to the bike? If so undo that and try your sigs again.

1st step of troubleshooting is Visual Inspection. So inspect ALL the connections.

Next I would most likely undo both signals and see if the fuse still blows. If so I would suspect a flasher problem or a wire harness problem.

If it doesn’t blow, then I would suspect miswiring at one or both signals. And it could be like the other thread said about the signal body being a return and if wired wrong would short.

Since a 10a fuse is popping as soon as you select a signal, something has to be short.

I’ll have to take a look at the wiring diagram to narrow down any more suggestions and see more of what is going on with that circuit.

Edit to add: do what SportsterDoc suggests.

 

[Cormanus]

popgun, is this the other thread? http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3598

 

[Lord Popgun]

Yes sir Cormanus.

 

[Cormanus]

Thank you Jedi Master, popgun.

 

[Kodeman_imp]

Kodeman’s problem is running in 2 threads now. Jumping around is going to make help, well, hard.

Anyway Kodeman, Front signals on for running and rears off is normal operation. Also troubleshooting a ‘custom’ wiring installation can be hard for us as we don’t know how it was done, or how proficiently the job was done.

But—Have they ever worked properly? If so, have you recently done/or added anything electrical to the bike? If so undo that and try your sigs again.

1st step of troubleshooting is Visual Inspection. So inspect ALL the connections.

Next I would most likely undo both signals and see if the fuse still blows. If so I would suspect a flasher problem or a wire harness problem.

If it doesn’t blow, then I would suspect miswiring at one or both signals. And it could be like the other thread said about the signal body being a return and if wired wrong would short.

Since a 10a fuse is popping as soon as you select a signal, something has to be short.

I’ll have to take a look at the wiring diagram to narrow down any more suggestions and see more of what is going on with that circuit.

Edit to add: do what SportsterDoc suggests.

Hey there. Thanks for he info. I just got this bike from the guy that started this thread. He said that they where working when he got the inspection done last month and hasn’t changed anything since. I traced all the lines and didn’t find any exposed wire and the connections where all correct according to the wireing diagram. It has to be something with the rears since they don’t turn on at all. Il have to try and take them apart to see if something inside one is getting grounded.

 

[Lord Popgun]

OK, that is insteresting. From my keyboard and not at your bike, I would suspect a poor wiring job somewhere. If you are thinking the rear is the problem, and I’ve been thinking it could be, check carefully for a pinched wire. We had a member with a similar problem and a wire was pinched in the back shorting to ground. Once told where to look he fixed it promptly.

Also, keep in mind this. Green is ground on our bikes. BUT a small number of members have found that the ground and hot wires are reversed in the rear. I don’t know where they were reversed, but most likely at lights’ connection to the chassis harness. Its always best to verify with a meter.

The connections are on the left side of the bike in a big boot. Sort of behind the battery. Remove that tool box and remove the left side cover too. I haven’t messed with mine in a while but can send some pics if you really need them. You could unplug ther rears and narrow down the fault to the rear, then put them in one at a time to pinpoint the faulty circuit.

Do you know how to use a meter? You have a 2014 correct?

Not trying to be snarky. I don’t know your skills and troubleshooting over the internet can sometimes take a while. If I (or say Max) was there we could most likely fix this pretty quickly, so don’t give up or get frustrated. If you weren’t 5 states away I’d come over. And I’m pretty sure Max isn’t going to show up from New Zealand

 

[Cormanus]

OK, that is insteresting. From my keyboard and not at your bike, I would suspect a poor wiring job somewhere. If you are thinking the rear is the problem, and I’ve been thinking it could be, check carefully for a pinched wire. We had a member with a similar problem and a wire was pinched in the back shorting to ground. Once told where to look he fixed it promptly.

Also, keep in mind this. Green is ground on our bikes. BUT a small number of members have found that the ground and hot wires are reversed in the rear. I don’t know where they were reversed, but most likely at lights’ connection to the chassis harness. Its always best to verify with a meter.

The connections are on the left side of the bike in a big boot. Sort of behind the battery. Remove that tool box and remove the left side cover too. I haven’t messed with mine in a while but can send some pics if you really need them. You could unplug ther rears and narrow down the fault to the rear, then put them in one at a time to pinpoint the faulty circuit.

Do you know how to use a meter? You have a 2014 correct?

Not trying to be snarky. I don’t know your skills and troubleshooting over the internet can sometimes take a while. If I (or say Max) was there we could most likely fix this pretty quickly, so don’t give up or get frustrated. If you weren’t 5 states away I’d come over. And I’m pretty sure Max isn’t going to show up from New Zealand

Oh, I dunno. Bert Munro did.

 

[SportsterDoc]

Left turn is light blue, with green ground
Right turn is orange, with green ground.

The light blue comes from a "junction" bus, which is 14 positions with 10 wires, 5 light blue and 5 orange.

The left side light blue wires from the junction go to
Indicator light
4 way switch
Turn signal switch
Turn signal relay (flasher)
Left turn rear bulb

The left turn front bulb is light blue/white directly from the turn signal relay

For the rears not working aspect, if not reversed polarity on rear LEDs, a few questions:
1. Do 4 way (hazards) work?
2. Do indicators (in the gauges) work?

3. For the left side, (a) is the light blue wire in the outside position of the junction bus (connector) making contact to the bus? (b) Does the light blue at the junction have continuity to the left rear turn signal socket?

4. For the right side, (a) is the orange wire in the other outside position of the junction bus (connector) making contact to the bus? (b) Does the orange at the junction have continuity to the right rear turn signal socket?

 

[max]

Just off the phone with Bert Munro, and he had an idea, if the fuse blows when the left indicator is switched on the problem is in the left side, if it blows when the right indicator is switched on the problem is in the r ..... side.

At this stage could be either the front or rear depending how the front 3 wires are connected, Bert tells me he has not had this problem with his indian :idea:

 

[SportsterDoc]

You are amazing, Max, since Burt passed in 1978!