To Spring Green and Back Again

Lunchbag

Running like a top
Thread starter
I've been home from the rally long enough to rest, catch up on neglected tasks, and settle back into life in front of the computer screen. And we now have a newly refreshed forum! So I have no more excuses for putting off a ride report.

This one could take a while, since it was an eleven-day riding adventure - four days to the rally, four days at the rally, and three days home. I will try to take you along day-by-day, but bear with me as I rack my brain to remind myself how it all went. I think by reviewing the map and photos, it will come to me.

I'll begin the story two days before the trip. I had refreshed all the fluids in the bike and wanted one short ride to make sure everything was right. I also wanted to put my packed bag on the bike to make sure it fit.

That evening, I packed four changes of clothes, each day's worth in a ziplock bag. Plus a spare pair of jeans, a toiletries bag, two water bottles, and a few odds and ends. I put an E-ZPass transponder in the front pouch of the backpack. I rolled up a fleece jacket into its own ziplock bag and shoved it in the lower pouch. I bungeed the backpack to the back of the seat and rode to the nearby landing and back.

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The bike itself was fine, but I was constrained in the seat due to the space which my backpack was hogging. This wouldn't do. I needed to be able to move around in the seat on a long trip. So I removed the fleece from the lower pocket. Perfect, except the fleece was too bulky to go in the main pouch. I found a much thinner long-sleeved quarter-zip pullover, put it in its own ziplock bag, and shoved it in the main pouch.

I mulled over this setup the day before the ride. I predicted that if I was making a mistake, it was one of three things: 1. leaving the fleece jacket, 2. not packing rain gear, or 3. not starting with a fresh set of tires. The trip could have me riding over 3,000 miles and the BT-54 tires already had 2,300 miles on them. Of course it was too late to do anything about the tires; that decision was made. Regarding the other items, I figured I would just deal with any issues as they came up. I would have a phone and a credit card, which could fix a lot of problems.

Day 1 - Thursday, August 27
Saint Inigoes, MD to Parkersburg, WV.

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I slept well but woke early on day 1. I dressed, drank some water, grabbed my jacket and helmet and headed to the garage. My bag was already packed and sitting on the bike seat, so I bungeed it, geared up, and fired up. I took a photo of the bike in the early morning, as people do when they head to the CB1100 rally 😁

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I got rolling around 5:45 a.m. It was a fine, clear morning with the temperature in the lower 70s F. I headed east toward the highway. A single planet shone in the eastern sky, but it wasn't the lovely lady. I figured she must be in the other half of her orbit, gracing somebody's evening sky at that moment.

The bike purred as I passed Long Road, the place where I had to turn around last year with a bad spark plug cap. I continued past Budd's Creek, where Gone used to promote drag races. I contemplated his recent career change and wondered if I would soon have one of my own. My company is being acquired by a competitor, and no one knows who will land. If I need to look for a new job, should I try to find something I love? Or try to make enough money so I can do what I love in my spare time? I couldn't answer the question.

The sky was growing lighter as I crossed the Potomac River into Virginia. Evidently, my transponder didn't work, but the bridge toll camera did.

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In Virginia, I stopped at the first gas station with the miles remaining indicator flashing "22." After filling the tank, I reasoned that it probably had more remaining than indicated. I continued on routes 206 and 218, the back roads to Fredericksburg.

I rode through the old town to a diner called the Twenty Four Hundred. It wasn't even 7:30, but the tiny parking lot was full, so I created my own parking spot. I took a seat at the bar since all the tables were filled except for one of those large round booths, which I did not want to occupy alone.

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I ordered creamed chipped beef on toast, something I like to eat once every ten years. The lady who refilled my coffee mug pointed out the spots on the bar where the arms of the customers had worn the laminate thin over the years. I enjoyed my hot meal and decided that, as dive diners go, the Twenty Four Hundred was the genuine article. I also made a mental note that, when I take breaks during a long day of motorcycling, I would do better to rest my butt in a chair or a booth rather than a barstool.

I picked a new route out of Fredericksburg, staying as close to the Rappahannock River as possible. It worked out beautifully. I joined highway 3 at the site of the Chancellorsville battle. This enabled me to skip all of the traffic and stop lights which normally make 3 disagreeable. I now had a nice back road both into and out of Fredericksburg. I decided this would be my new favorite route when I get the itch to head for the hills.

I turned left at Wilderness and, while enroute to Orange, it began to rain. The rain was light and steady for a while. Later it intensified, and I started thinking that maybe I should start thinking. But as soon as I started thinking, the skies cleared and I pressed on. I was dry before long.

From Orange I took 20 past Montpelier and 609 through Scuffletown, and joined 33 near Stanardsville. I would stay on 33 much of the day, so I didn't have to think about navigation for a while. Highway 33 cuts across ridges and valleys, offering some tight mountain curves as well as easier sections in between.

On a long, lonely straight section I suddenly realized I had never really opened up the CB to see what it would do. So I pegged the throttle and the bike accelerated steadily to 108 and stayed there. Like everything the CB1100 does, it was not dramatic.

I didn't stay there long. For one thing, I had no windshield. More importantly, I remembered that many years ago I was very unjustly cited for reckless driving in Virginia, and if officer Sutterwhite appeared out of nowhere, and if he remembered me as I remember him, I would surely spend the weekend in the clinker and arrive late to the rally.

The highway passed south of Massanutten and, approaching Harrisonburg, I took 726 around the south side instead of riding straight through town as usual. Rejoining 33, the next ridge crossing took me into West Virginia. I descended into Brandywine and stopped at the general store for a short break.

When I approached the coffee pot the gal was just starting a fresh pot, so I waited for it to brew before pouring mine. A few extra minutes on my feet would be okay, since I still had many hours of riding ahead. A few local boys gathered around the high top tables. By the time they left and gassed up their toys, I had finished my drink and was ready to continue.

I continued west into Franklin, stopping briefly to check the map on my phone. I saw no evidence of a gas station ahead at Seneca Rocks, so I filled up at the Franklin BP. After crossing the next ridge, I paused at the Germany Valley overlook to take in the view.

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I continued the descent through Judy Gap and shot up the valley floor to Seneca Rocks, and westward on to Elkins.

It was early afternoon when I reached Elkins and I had many hours of good riding behind me, and a few still ahead. I rode up and down the streets of Elkins, looking for the cafe that I remembered from a previous trip. Eventually I realized the cafe was not in Elkins, but in another WV town. While touring Elkins, I spotted a handsome church and stopped to take a picture of it with a handsome motorcycle in the foreground.

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I learned only afterwards that the building isn't a church, but rather the county courthouse. The statue on the edifice is not a saint but Lady Justice with her sword and scales. While meandering through town, a sign for Bob Evans grabbed my attention. I rode a couple miles south of town to the restaurant, ready for a break.

I sat down and had a piece of Reese's peanut butter pie and three jars of ice water. The pie was enormous and probably contained a thousand calories. Exactly what I needed. While eating, I studied the route to Buckhannon. Last time I took 48 which was boring, but this time I decided to take 151 as recommended by MTC. I stuffed a couple extra napkins in my back pockets for cleaning my visor at future stops.

Route 151 was indeed a nice motorcycle road, and it carried me into Buckhannon and twice over the river. I stopped at Jawbone Park and parked in the shade of a canopy. Under the shades were dozens of banners honoring the town's veterans, like those displayed in almost every American small town nowadays.

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From Buckhannon I continued to Weston. After a zig and a zag to stay on 33 in Weston, I passed by a sprawling campus of old stone buildings, which I took to be a college. A large school for a small town like Weston, I thought. I resolved to find out later what college it was. It turned out to be the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum. You'll be happy to know the asylum gets 4.7 stars out of 5 on google maps.

I finally turned off 33 onto 47, but not before stopping to fill up at the corner gas station. While I filled the bike, I thought about how glad I was that I was not the guy across the street, cutting the grass on a large hillside with a string trimmer. Some of the hills are just too steep to mow.

I took 47 through Burnt House, Smithville, and other tiny towns that barely exist. Somewhere on this route I felt a bug hit my neck, followed by a burning sensation. A bee or wasp had obviously hit me, stinger first. I brushed my glove over the place where I felt the pain, in hopes of removing the bee if she was still there, but the burning grew more severe. Finally I stopped along the road and looked in my mirror.

The stinger was still in my neck, so I removed my glove and pulled it out with my fingertips. By that time, I suppose, all the poison had gone in, nevertheless I was thankful that I don't react severely to bees. Before resuming, I snapped a photo of the bike parked along 47.

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I turned south off 47 onto 53 towards Elizabeth. Since I was feeling good, I'd spend a few extra minutes on the twisty roads and avoid all interstates on the first day. That wouldn't be practical in the days to come, but it felt right for this first day. From Elizabeth, I traveled north and arrived at the Microtel at the interchange south of Parkersburg.

Ordinarily, I look for an affordable hotel in town with restaurant options within walking distance. But I had Wyndham points to burn, so instead I stayed for free just south of town. I cleaned up and walked to Cracker Barrel for soup and salad. It was a good day. I had ridden 410 miles, many of them twisty mountain roads or sweeping country highways. I had avoided the interstates, and I didn't need the rain gear that I didn't bring. The bike was running perfectly, and I was ready for an even longer ride the next day into Michigan.
 
Absolutely stunning ride. The setup on the bike is perfect, too. Nicely done. David
 
Best thing about this, Lunchbag, is there's more to come.
 
Excellent!! And you pack very light. Amazingly so. Looking forward to all the other days...and glad you didn't re-encounter the officer Sutterwhite.
 
Good stuff Lunchbag.

Geezalou Deluxes are beautiful motorcycles.

I've spent a lot of time in the Weston, Buckhannon area. That asylum is a landmark there. The whole area has great roads to ride. We go there for a week and base out of Weston.
 
What an awesome trip! I was scanning the text and saw "Budd's Creek" and thought "Huh, I've been there". Holy cow, yeah, I we did race there for many years. You've got an impeccable memory.

Sounds like you're doing some soul searching along the ride, which is a good thing. When I was in a sudden job change situation in late '24, I cancelled a long motorcycle trip to plan for change. I shouldn't have cancelled. I'd probably be in the same place I am now, but I wouldn't have skipped a lovely ride. I hope things work out well. I have been in the situation of the company I was working for being taken over. Not by a competitor but a large conglomerate car parts corporation. Things get weird, especially if you don't know where you stand. "We'll get through this" was soon replaced with "Every man for himself". Just take stock of where you are in life and what you can do to find the most fulfillment possible.

Looking forward to more of your trip, before I pull the plug and take off on my own! Ride safe.
 
Thread starter
we did race there for many years
I only attended one event at Budd's Creek. It was a drag race many years ago, to which a friend gave me tickets and I took the kids. It was awesome. What I really liked was how you would walk around and see lots of stuff up close, like the trailer/pit areas. I don't remember what year that was, but quite a while ago. You were probably there.

By the way, when I was having drinks with my buddy Dave on Friday he mentioned a great electric car display that Tesla sponsored at the Petersen. I told him I've never been there, but when I go some day, I know who can give a great tour!
 
I only attended one event at Budd's Creek. It was a drag race many years ago, to which a friend gave me tickets and I took the kids. It was awesome. What I really liked was how you would walk around and see lots of stuff up close, like the trailer/pit areas. I don't remember what year that was, but quite a while ago. You were probably there.

By the way, when I was having drinks with my buddy Dave on Friday he mentioned a great electric car display that Tesla sponsored at the Petersen. I told him I've never been there, but when I go some day, I know who can give a great tour!

We did one event a year at Maryland International Raceway, if I recall, in June, so if you were there at that time I might have been there. Yes, you do know someone who could show you around the Petersen! The Tesla exhibit, hmm.. that was about four years ago if I recall. We still have a few of the cars down in the vault that were never taken back to Tesla, one being a Cybertruck riddled with dents to test bullet resistance.
 
Thread starter
Day 2 - Friday, August 28
Parkersburg, WV to Grandville, MI

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Friday morning I checked out of the Microtel, grabbed a chocolate covered mini-doughnut from the breakfast counter, and washed it down with a swig of coffee. I wiped the dew off the seat, mirrors, instruments, and controls, and bungeed my bag to the seat. While I had avoided the interstate the previous day, I hopped right on this morning in order to get through town quickly. I rode in a medium fog. I exited I-77 onto 47 and the fog got very thick. Although my pinlock visor worked fine, droplets formed on the outside, so I used my gloved left index finger as a wiper.

I wondered if it made sense to stop for breakfast while the fog burned off, and as I contemplated this I saw a large "CAFE" sign and an illuminated "Open" sign near the door of the building. I parked and removed my helmet, but as I looked around, I sensed that not all was right.

The sign for the "Red Roof Perk" cafe was innocuous, depicting a steamy cup of coffee. But all the windows were covered over, and on the window boards was printed "REDHOT CAFE" and "ATM inside." Now I like my coffee hot, but not red hot. I put my gear back on, preferring to move on rather than open the door and find out what sort of fare was actually being served. I also deleted the photo I had taken of my bike in front of the so-called cafe. I didn't like the thought that I might die on the Ohio "Triple Nickel" and be found with that photo on my mobile phone, as the last testament to my ill-fated adventure.

I turned westward onto 50. It was the same highway 50 that runs three thousand miles from Ocean City, Maryland to Sacramento, California. I would only be on it long enough to cross the river into Ohio. However, as I rode west on 50, I started questioning myself. It seemed to continue on and on westward, whereas I had expected to turn north and cross the river. I pulled over to consult my phone map.

That's when I realized I was a victim of "digital map disorientation." This is when you have a phone map that you're continually zooming in and out. Unlike a paper map, the scale is constantly changing, and it's easy to interpret a long section of road as a short one, and vice versa. I was on the right course, I just didn't realize how large Parkersburg was, and how long it would take to get through it.

As I continued, 50 indeed crossed the Ohio river, and it did so at a singularly beautiful moment. The fog had cleared and the sun was shining at a low angle, illuminating the Ohio River valley, the remaining low clouds, the steam rising from the plant along the river, and the massive steel bridge structure. I wished I could photograph the scene, but I couldn't stop on the bridge. And let's face it, photos never capture such a moment in its true essence.

I stopped at the mile 0 sign of OH 555 and took a photo. I had discovered the road while perusing the map over a year ago, but this was my first opportunity to ride it. The road ran northwest, winding around and over a hundred hills and farms along the way. It was both picturesque and challenging, but mostly the latter.

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The lower midsection required extra attention due to cracks and shallow holes in the pavement. The patterns of the holes, often one layer of asphalt deep, made me wonder if they started as gouges from a snow plow. Squirrels, deer, and birds were sharing the road that morning, but we managed to avoid hitting one another. Still, it was a delightful ride through beautiful country.

I rolled into Chesterhill at 8:01 a.m. The Triple Nickel Diner wouldn't open until 8:30. Not the genuine article, I decided, and rolled on. The northern part of the route reminded me of a roller coaster with its steep hills and troughs and sudden turns. It was a blast to ride, but I had to be careful not to go flying over blind hills, which is always tempting.

After an hour of great riding, I departed 555 onto 37 and then 93, enjoyable roads in their own right. My first ride through southeastern Ohio left no doubt in my mind that it is a treasure-trove of great riding.

Entering New Lexington, I parked along Main Street and walked to the Cafe Grind. I got in line just before a rush of customers appeared, causing the line to extend out the door. I suppose they were all taking their drinks to-go, because the cafe remained empty inside where I enjoyed my coffee and muffin.

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Departing New Lexington, I spotted a bumper sticker on a pickup truck that said, "Bad decisions make good stories." I wondered if I had made enough bad decisions to get a good story out of this adventure. Perhaps, but it was too early to tell. Or maybe I should start making more bad decisions to enhance the story. For example, I probably should have just walked into the Red Roof Perk and asked for tea and toast, just to see what would happen.

I took 13 to I-70 west toward Columbus. I decided to skip the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame, where I had hoped to stop and look around. A friend had proposed that we meet up at a cruise-in/music event in Hopkins, Michigan that evening, and I had just enough time to get there at a moderate pace. Stopping at the museum would put me too far behind.

I followed 270 around Columbus and exited onto 33 heading northwest. I was ready for another coffee break around Marysville. Since I had seen plenty of Tim Horton signs but had never stopped at one, I figured why not try that. No complaints - they did not mess up the old fashioned donut or the coffee, and there was a quiet place to sit outside, far from the loud chatter of the girls behind the counter. In the bad decision department, I was having no success.

From 33 I took 117 and Thayer to 30 west toward Fort Wayne, Indiana. I filled the tank just before joining the beltway. At $3.25 per gallon, it was the cheapest gas I had seen for a while. Traffic was slow on the beltway but thinned out heading north on I-69. I stopped near Angola for a sip of water and continued to I-94 west for Kalamazoo.

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I stopped again briefly at the last rest area before Kalamazoo. Although I generally don't care for interstate highways when motorcycling, I had to admit it was nice to be able to stretch my legs and refill my water bottles at the rest areas. The day was sunny and warm, and life was good.

The I-94/131 interchange was apparently closed, so I picked my way through Kalamazoo to 131 north. I wondered if Kalamazoo had a zoo, and whether they called it the Kalama Zoo. From 131 I eventually found Hopkins, after at least one U-turn to avoid a dirt and gravel road.

Entering Hopkins, I had no trouble finding the park, where the whole town had turned out for the cruise-in. My friend Scott knew one of the musicians in the Beatles band that was performing, and they were very good. Cars of all types and ages were parked on the lawn.

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We feasted on chicken strips, corn dogs, and elephant ears, and walked about. We talked with a couple gents who had each done an LS3 conversion of a pristine 1980's Cutlass (or Regal?). Corvettes of all eras were represented. Perhaps most unique was a van converted into a mobile storage unit for thousands of Hot Wheels vehicles, many in their original unopened packages.

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After a couple of hours, the music ended and cars began filtering out. I followed Scott and his wife to a gas station where I filled up before reaching their home in Grandville, where I would stay overnight. I inspected the recent renovations in their home and their tomato garden, and we took the cat for a walk. I stayed up past my bedtime chatting, but eventually confessed that I would need sleep before I left early the next morning.

It was another good day. 480 miles of pleasant riding in fine weather. A laid-back evening with an old friend. Scott and I had each served as groomsman for the other many years ago. In fact, I did this twice for Scott, but the second time I made it clear that he only gets two.

Sadly, I see I haven't written much about the bike. When it is flawless, it's hard to know what to say. Maybe it's lousy bikes, like bad decisions, that make good stories.
 
A second splendid chapter, Lunchbag.

I'm pleased you made it through Ohio safely — I'm told there are parts of the States where Ferrets run wild and make pose a challenge to motorcyclists.

I'm kinda sorry you stayed outside the Red Hot Café. I suspect there may have been a tale to be told. Know that, had I been in your riding boots, I'd almost certainly have made the same decision.
 
Very nice, Lunchbag! There's a Suzuki DR650 rally going on in New Mexico that I would have loved to attend and one of the guys posted something about the more things go bad the better the story...maybe, but if I'm the rider I sure do prefer to report the lack of "adventure". And the Hotwheels van is a fine story!
 
Thread starter
Preface to Day 3:

While days 1 and 2 were basically planned, day 3 offered me options. If I was fatigued after the first two days of riding, I would take the ferry from Muskegon to Milwaukee, shortening my ride and giving me some time out of the seat. But if I felt good, I would ride north through Michigan into the Upper Peninsula (UP), and the following day south into Wisconsin.

The UP idea came about a couple weeks before the trip, after several people in conversations mentioned how awesome the UP was. It seemed like a shame to be in Michigan with a motorcycle and not try to see it. But this northern route would add some 450 miles to the trip. So a couple weeks prior, I explained to my boss that I would need an extra day off to make an already long motorcycle ride much longer. He agreed, and said he was envious regarding my trip.

Day 3 - Saturday, August 29
Grandville to Manistique, MI

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Day 3 was now here, and there was no doubt I was going north. I felt great so far, and this was an opportunity I might not have again for a long time. I made as little noise as possible as I grabbed my water bottles from the fridge and stowed them in my bag, along with a ripe peach in a sandwich bag. Despite my attempt to vanish without disrupting the household, Scott rose early to see me off, and I was on the road before sunrise.

I took I-196 to 131 north through Grand Rapids. North of Grand Rapids, things gradually began to change. The farms and crop fields of southern Michigan gave way to trees and hills of a wilder look. It reminded me of traveling from North Dakota's Red River Valley into northern Minnesota, as I did several times as a child. The speed limit went to 70, then 75. And it got colder.

While I rode at 75, the traffic passed me at 80, even the pickups towing recreational boats. The boats that passed me were covered with tightly stretched fabric covers, unlike the boats where I live which are trailered uncovered. Roadkill on 131 was abundant, and it wasn't just your ordinary deer, possums, squirrels, raccoons, skunks, and occasional foxes. I'm almost certain the deceased included a beaver and an otter.

The cold became uncomfortable enough that I experimented with speeds lower than the limit, when I wasn't being pushed from behind. But you know how this game plays out. It's either more time getting cold at slower speeds, or less time getting colder at higher speeds. Welcome to the game of "no right answers."

I pulled into a rest area after riding less than an hour. After parking, I discovered that my neck was so sore it hurt to look down at the kickstand, so I felt for the kickstand with my foot and swung it down. I pulled the quarter-zip pullover out of my bag and put it on. I was nuts to have started the day without it. A man parked near me asked about my trip. He said that he and his wife were headed for Traverse City on her birthday, because he was from there and it was the most beautiful place he knew.

He then regaled me with stories of the Mackinac Bridge. Don't look down, he said. When he was a kid, his father had told him not to look down. Of course he did, and it seriously messed him up. He said there were depots on either side of the bridge where professional drivers would assist travelers too terrified to drive over it themselves. When his wife, who was from San Francisco, first saw the bridge, it was like nothing she had ever seen.

After finally saying goodbye, I reveled at the thought of this marvelous and monstrous creation, perhaps the eighth wonder of the world, which I was going to meet face-to-face, and conquer that very day. I ate my peach, emptied a water bottle, and considered that the cold was a minor annoyance compared to the victory and wonder that awaited me at the gateway to the UP. Who knows, the ride over the Mackinac bridge might alone be worth the entire trip. I refilled my water bottle and rejoined the highway.

Highway 131 continued on and on into the unkempt northernness. The cold returned, mitigated just a little by my additional layer. I decided that leaving the fleece behind was a mistake. The sun played games with me, but never really appeared before ducking again behind the overcast. I rode for long periods with my left hand in my lap and my left arm tucked close to my side. There wasn't much to do except to think about hot coffee that awaited in Cadillac.

After another hour of riding, I took the second exit for Cadillac and rode down Cass Street through the center of town. I parked by an old steam locomotive, just a few steps from the train depot which was now a cafe. Only when I examined a photo of the train after the trip did I notice the uniqueness of its design. Its pistons, driveshafts, and bevel gears were made specifically for logging tracks, characterized as they were by extreme grades and tight turns.

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Further research showed that this "Shay" type locomotive was identical to the one I happened upon last fall in the town of Cass, West Virginia, as it steamed away from the station with passengers aboard.

But on this day, I was not very observant of train features, probably because I was focused on getting a hot meal inside the After 26 Depot Cafe, a non-profit cafe that benefits disabled people when they age out of the school system. The cafe was friendly, classy, and pleasantly situated by a lakeside park. The food was excellent, and my mug of black coffee was served with a spoon in it. I don't actually need a spoon for my coffee, but it's the thought that counts.

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Now, lest any reader fear that I left Cadillac, Michigan without paying homage to the Kiss memorial, please set your mind at ease. I followed the road around the lake to the holy place. I won't explain the memorial, which speaks well enough for itself.

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I continued around the north shore of the lake and then along the canal that links Lake Cadillac and Lake Mitchell. Kids played and rode bikes in the state park and campground that borders the canal. I turned northwest on 115 and rode to Mesick, then north on 37 through Buckley to Traverse City.

The decision to visit Traverse City was made after my discussion with the man at the rest area, a Michigan native. It was indeed a nice-looking city, located at the south end of a long bay off Lake Michigan. I parked on Front Street to walk around and took a picture of the bike.

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I took Cass Street to the waterfront and headed east. I spotted a lovely schooner with sails flying and parked the bike in a place where I thought I could get a picture of both as the ship approached, but she tacked before I got my camera out, so I took a picture of the boat only.

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Before we go any further, we should tackle the Cass mystery. Why has the name already appeared three times in my ride report? Is there a reason why Michigan cities like to name their streets Cass? And is there a connection, as suggested by the Shay locomotive clue, with the West Virginia town of Cass, perhaps through a lumber magnate?

As it turns out, the connection is very remote. The Michigan streets are named after one Cass, and the West Virginia town after another. But the men are related through a common ancestor, so the director of the West Virginia Paper and Pulp Company was the great-nephew of the more famous Michigan politician.

I filled the tank before departing Traverse City on 31. I rode past golf courses, resorts, recreational centers, and orchards. I stopped for a moment along 31 to get a picture of the bike with a farmscape ahead. I didn't realize until I got back on the bike that I had stopped just short of a speed trap. Can you see Smokey in the picture?

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Passing through Elk Rapids, I got a glimpse of Elk Lake on one side and the Grand Traverse Bay on the other. Further north, I stopped for another photo at the Torch Lake public dock.

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I bought a peach at the Royal Farms shop north of Torch Lake, lingering just long enough to eat it before moving on.

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I continued through Charlevoix. I considered stopping for a photo with the world's largest cherry pie tin, but I felt doing so on the same day as visiting the Kiss memorial might trivialize the latter.

Lake Michigan appeared along the highway before I reached Petoskey. I dismounted in Petoskey and walked around. The smell of the hydrangeas alongside the Hotel Perry porch was amazing. A wedding party posed for photos inside the hotel garden.

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Although Scott had shown me how to identify a Petoskey stone, I didn't have time for rock hunting. Like Traverse City, Petoskey is a town that would require a much longer, slower visit to explore and enjoy fully.

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I filled up before leaving Petoskey, not so much because the bike needed gas, but because I needed the pit stop. I then made a tactical mistake after departing Petoskey, taking 31 toward the bridge instead of cruising 119 through the tunnel of trees, as Scott had recommended. Of course, I may have found part of the route closed as the Ferret recently reported, so maybe this was for the best. Regardless, it's another reason to return someday.

Highway 31 wound past a few tiny lakeside towns, then north to join I-75 before reaching the bridge. As I joined I-75, it began raining. I decided to bypass Mackinaw City and go straight for the bridge, in the interest of time. I stayed in the right lane, hoping it was the one that would not become a metal grating. I guessed right.

And ... I crossed the bridge. Yeah, that was about it. A long suspension bridge, not especially dramatic. It was basically the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, but in Michigan. Looking down didn't add any excitement. There was water down there, just like you would expect to see under a bridge. Well, that's how it goes, doesn't it? When anticipation is high, reality can't deliver. But when you're expecting nothing, as when I crossed the Ohio River in Parkersburg, a moment can grab you.

The toll booth attendant admired the bike while receiving my payment. "That's a classic," he said. "And it still looks pretty good, too." I thanked him. We didn't discuss what model year it is.

I exited onto Highway 2, which would keep me close to the shore of Lake Michigan. I passed the signs for Mystery Spot, which I had been advised to skip, and I parked in a lot overlooking the lake, with the bridge visible in the distance. I took a photo and stretched my legs.

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Further west, the road hugged the sandy shoreline for a few miles before retreating back into the trees. Past Epoufette, I stopped at another parking lot with a scenic view.

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I continued westward. I passed lonely shacks advertising pasties, smoked fish, jerky, cedar goods, and marajuana. I passed old hotels and cabins, many of them long abandoned. A few homes were scattered about, some on the lake side and some on the land side of the road. But the overwhelming impression was just how little was actually there, in comparison to the lower Peninsula.

That, I suppose, is the draw of the UP. However, I began to feel that one could not really experience the UP by riding through on highway 2. To do it right would require a few days, and maybe a boat, a gun, or a fishing pole.

A state rest area provided more nice views of the lake, and access to the beach.

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The rain had stopped and restarted a couple of times, but never amounted to much. Still, the overcast day and my still-sore neck had me feeling ready to quit. As I continued westward, I sang the motor-sickle song, probably to convince myself that I was still having fun. It was kind of fun.

I gassed up at a lonely station and decided I would stop at Manistique, just 20 miles ahead, if a room was available. I entered Manistique before 5 p.m. and was happy to see a vacancy sign at the Colonial Motel. When I entered the office, two loud microdogs alerted the owner of my arrival. He gave me a paper to fill out, and the key to number 7.

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I soaked my neck in the bathtub for ten or fifteen minutes, which felt great. I put on clean clothes and walked a half mile to the Three Seasons Cafe. While waiting for my food, I read the group text in which rally goers reported their progress and arrival into Spring Green. I reported myself still alive and enroute.

I had a beef pasty with gravy and a salad. The pasty was good, but only because of the gravy. The thing itself was bland, and the crust was crumbly rather than flaky, but the gravy saved it by bringing all the flavor and moisture.

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I left the restaurant satisfied, and day 3 ended well. Despite the cold start and the damp, overcast afternoon, I had covered 367 miles, and I saw part of the world I had never seen before. My route left much to be explored in a future visit, but that was the problem with traveling through anyplace. To travel through, you need to travel through, which means you can't see it all.

When I turned off the lights to go to bed, the room was overly bright, due to the lights outside. I hung spare towels and linens over the thin curtains, which helped a little. The light outside the window near my bed was controlled by a switch inside room 6, so I had to go outside and unscrew the bulb. With the room mostly darkened, I fell asleep quickly.
 
After 367 miles, you earned a good night’s sleep! As for the motorcycle, more than toll bridge attendants have admired it along the way. He just had a quiet moment to pay his respects and say the words to you directly. Fantastic report. David
 
I've been to the UP 4 times 3 of those by motorcycle (Just returned from a week up there) in 2010, 2013, 2018 and 2026. Great place to ride. Yeah, you need to get into the "upper " UP lol to really experience the U.P. ...Sault Ste Marie, Paradise, Newberry, Munising, Maquette, Copper Harbor
 
Awesome work Lunchbag! Great report
 
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