Tires!

[gmike_imp]

I would like the PR3'S but I want the correct size. I am worried about rubbing

I use the PR3s on my 2013 also. 120 front and 160 back. Front is no issue. The back the closest it comes to anything is the center stand foot tab.

On the clutch side that gap is 3/4" on the brake side the gap is 3/8".

 

[mustakoira_imp]

I put on the PR3s onto my 2013 ABS about a month ago. 160 on the back and 110 on the front. (I don’t have my center stand installed)

When I ordered the tires, they made a mistake and ordered a 120 for the front. I didn’t know that when I brought it in for installation, and they tried to install the 120 onto the front but said they couldn’t get it to bead. I had the new PR3 on the back and old Dunlop on the front when I picked it up.

To make matters worse, there were no 110 PR3s available anywhere. They called Michelin and they were “between runs” and it would be about 2 months before they were available. They suggested a 110 PR5 instead but I didn’t like that idea either.

Not content with having mismatched tires, I found a new 110 PR3 on eBay from the UK. I was skeptical but placed the order. A week later it was at my door and I brought it to the dealer for installation, and all is good now.

I’m interested to hear that others have managed to get a 120 installed onto the front. I have a Fugu front fender installed clearance is tight, so I don’t think it would have worked for that reason anyway for me.

 

[Ben70_imp]

When I took my wheels in to the local Honda shop, they couldn't mount them. The Yamaha KTM Suzuki dealer had no problem, PR3s, 120, 160.

Ben

 

[the Ferret]

I've had PR3 120s installed on the front of my 2014 deluxe three times now, no issues, and will again if I can find one.

Musta... are you saying they are making the PR5s in Stock sizes for the CB?

 

[peterbaron]

To my best knowledge, I only see PR5 in 17" ???:
:-/

 

[mustakoira_imp]

Ferret, they would have had a PR5 110 for the front. Not sure about the back.
Looking on the Michelin website I do not see any 18” sizes so I don’t know what the dealer was talking about.

I wasn’t interested in mixing tires so I didn’t pursue the conversation further but that’s what they first offered as a solution...

 

[Cormanus]

Me too, Peter.

By the way, the Michelin Web sites in Australia, the USA and France show the only PR3 18" sizes available are 110 and 160.

 

[emptysea]

So...decision time for me.
Currently run Michelin PR3's front and rear on my 2013. The pair have about 5700 miles on them. I bought an extra set of these tires because they are discontinued and they are sitting in my garage. Rear tire went flat on Sunday from a puncture.

Called my Honda dealer. They will not patch tires. I understand why. They also have confirmed what has been said her many times that a good patch can last for several thousand miles especially for a person that monitors tire pressure and who rides regularly. I have "VIP" service with my dealer that gives me free labor on the replacement and a discount on the tire itself along with free pickup and drop off of the bike.


Option 1: Find a place that will patch the rear tire and figure out how to get my bike over there.
Option 2: Replace the rear tire at Honda with my spare PR3 rear. Keep the unused front in my garage for the future.
Option 3: Replace both front and rear now with the unused PR3s.
Option 4: Replace the rear with a relatively less expensive tire that will provide about 8,000 miles of tread life. When that tire is done, then replace both front and rear with the PR3s as originally planned.

I turn this to you good people to provide your recommendation as to which option and, if you think Option 4 is the right move, what tire would you use?

And go!

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Sounds like a poll!

My lowly 2 cents:

* Practical reason: Option 2
* Preferred reason: Option 3

Clarification:

Is it a "slit" or a punch-like puncture? Arguably if the latter, then a routine "wick" + heat vulcanizing fix could be considered until you are ready for Option 3. I have done this successfully (three separate instances) piling on over 10K before replacing both tires. However, the puncture was in the road tread (not near sidewall), and not a "slit".

- - -

In another case I have used "Slime"-like products (twice) with success until the tire was worn.

The warnings were always known, but I never had an incident. In the case of the sidewall "slash" (= "slit"), the tire had to be replaced.

Not a recommendation by any garage, but an available consideration.

 

[bigsheep_imp]

I bought a 50 dollar roadside emergency kit for bikes from Canadian Tire and threw it in my saddle bag. It came with a tire repair kit and a compressor that can be powered by the battery. Eventually I was at the side of the road with a flat. I patched it, inflated it and carried on. It was simple. I'd only seen it done once before 20 years ago. Tire held pressure great until I replaced it.

 

[emptysea]

The hole looks like it was caused by a something hard and flat. Think the tip of a small flat-head screwdriver. I think it could be patched. However, I do not have the equipment to do the patch myself and since my dealer won't do it, I will need to find someone who will. Once I find that someone, I will have to figure out how to get my bike to their shop. I do not trust plugging tires from the outside except as a temporary fix. I'm not sure what the "wick" method you describe is, but I'm not opposed to looking at other options than I've listed. I'm leaning toward replacing the tire one way or another simply because it's a lot easier to have Honda pick up my bike, fix it, and return it to me ready to ride. My guy is looking up some prices for a "temporary" (8,000 mile) replacement. Might wind up with the OEM tire from now until oh, say, July.

Keep those opinions coming!!

 

[Cormanus]

This is the US site, isn’t it? https://motorcycle.michelinman.com/motorbike/tyres/michelin-pilot-road-3

Check the available sizes at the bottom.

Failing that, I’d go for Option 1, although I’d take the wheel off myself so I didn’t have to get the bike somewhere.

Then option 4.

 

[Gone in 60]

Now that I recall, when I bought my bike, to his credit, the owner pointed out that the rear tire had been plugged, from the inside. He had a receipt from a local dealer who did it. The receipt was dated two years back, so I figured if it was still holding steady pressure, it would be good. I haven't given it a thought since. I can understand a dealer not wanting to plug due to the potential liability.

 

[emptysea]

This is the US site, isn’t it? https://motorcycle.michelinman.com/motorbike/tyres/michelin-pilot-road-3

Check the available sizes at the bottom.

Failing that, I’d go for Option 1, although I’d take the wheel off myself so I didn’t have to get the bike somewhere.

Then option 4.

Thanks, Cormanus. I hadn't really thought about the idea of trying to find another PR3 for the rear, but that's an interesting idea if I can find one cheap.

I'm pretty close to removing Option 1 from consideration simply based on the risk/reward ratio -- risk=having the patch fail at an inopportune time reward=saving $150-$200 (cost of a new tire) spread out over the next 6-8 months. Still haven't decided, though.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

The hole looks like it was caused by a something hard and flat. Think the tip of a small flat-head screwdriver. I think it could be patched. However, I do not have the equipment to do the patch myself and since my dealer won't do it, I will need to find someone who will. Once I find that someone, I will have to figure out how to get my bike to their shop. I do not trust plugging tires from the outside except as a temporary fix. I'm not sure what the "wick" method you describe is, but I'm not opposed to looking at other options than I've listed. I'm leaning toward replacing the tire one way or another simply because it's a lot easier to have Honda pick up my bike, fix it, and return it to me ready to ride. My guy is looking up some prices for a "temporary" (8,000 mile) replacement. Might wind up with the OEM tire from now until oh, say, July.

Keep those opinions coming!!

The "wick" is basically the plug method I suppose. A plug to me is basically a piece of rubber, whereas the "wick" is cord material infused with a tar-like substance that is twisted into the tire from the outside, and then pulled slightly back out, trimmed almost flush, and the remaining lit to vulcanize the chemicals in the cord to the tire.

For clarity, I have never used the rubber plug method (typically used with an adhesive) for fear of it popping out of the tire.

I have never had a wheel imbalance issue, although I am sure it is off by a few grams.

 

[emptysea]

Gotcha... It's like a tiny plunger sort of. That's what comes with my emergency repair kit. Frankly, I think if they're installed correctly, they'll work just fine for a long time and you'll know if they aren't installed correctly pretty quickly.

Thanks for the clarification of the terms.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Gotcha... It's like a tiny plunger sort of. That's what comes with my emergency repair kit. Frankly, I think if they're installed correctly, they'll work just fine for a long time and you'll know if they aren't installed correctly pretty quickly.

Thanks for the clarification of the terms.

Correct, and the long performance of a correct installation has been my experience.

 

[Houtman_imp]

Mushroom plugs are the best and it can be done from the outside.
Check the STOP & GO website.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

That's interesting - never seen these before.

Mushroom plugs are the best and it can be done from the outside.
Check the STOP & GO website.

 

[emptysea]

I actually own and have used the Stop&Go kit. Worked great for me, but I’m not entirely convinced that it will hold up for 6000 miles. Still waiting on the cost of replacing the tire. Still, I’m very appreciative of the comments and advice.