Ticking noise from top part of engine

[Kingkong_imp]

The flapping sound, sound like its from cylinder cover, from these component (circled in red).
Maybe you can use a stethoscope to confirm the location.

Here we go.

This should work. Thank you very much everyone i appreciate your help.
I put coil 1 on the 4th , the ticking is still there in the video.

Also there is that weird sound (like a zap) while the pump is turning on (injectors maybe?) , i haven't heard that sound in any videos of CBs. it's at 11 seconds, 1:50 ...

Thanks again.

Not sure about how to troubleshoot these "Reed valve comp." But I believe you can plug the hole (there's a rubber hose connected to these) to see if the sound change. If I remember correctly, its a waste gas management system. So shouldn't affect engine function.

Not sure about how to troubleshoot these "Reed valve comp." But I believe you can plug the hole (there's a rubber hose connected to these) to see if the sound change. If I remember correctly, its a waste gas management system. So shouldn't affect engine function.
I tried but still the ticking master was at work. I also switched the coil thinking maybe? that didn't work.
I check the spark housing and cables. All seem good.
I checked the bolts on the exhaust too (again).

Running out of ideas and at 9k miles, how/why the hell would i need a valve adjustment! this is becoming a frustrating thing.

 

[Ben70_imp]

Well, despite the fact that most folks who have checked the valves at 8000 as recommended do not require adjustment, an inspection at this point would not be a terrible idea.

Ben

 

[Speed_imp]

My CB had the valves very poorly adjusted from factory, I did the adjustment with around 1500Km. When you accelerate and then release the sound dissapears (fuel cut), could be an injector? Maybe you can disconnect one injector of right side and see if sound dissapears (will be running with 3 cylinders but doesn't matter if it is 1 minute at idle speed).

 

[GAVSP1_imp]

Hi guys, I'm a bike mechanic in Perth Australia
I have just repaired a client's bike that had a loud ticking noise on the left-hand side of the cam cover and it had not so long ago had the shims checked by another shop and he got it back and it was I did some checks shim clearance , cam tower valve operation, they were a good then looked at the seals for the smog valves and found a O ring seal was lost and replaced with a std O ring which was not the correct size or shape , lucky for myself and the owner that I found it where the last tool dropped it fitted it back in and no more exhaust leak from the rocker cover smog valve , I hope this fixes some of your dramas with this model of bike . Cheers

 

[Cormanus]

Welcome to the forum GAVSP1 and thanks very much for the information. Are you a rider too?

 

[Tev62]

Watched your video with the plug lead on and off the no.4 plug, there is a marked difference in sound. I wonder if you have a burnt out valve and the noise is just the combustion escaping when it shouldn't? Take all the plug leads off and spark plugs out and turn over the engine by hand (put the bike in a high gear and rotate the rear wheel) and stick your finger in the plug hole number 4 to make sure you are getting some compression. It is a little crude I know but it might at least rule out a bad valve or closed up valve clearances. You are going to need someone to rotate the back wheel for you. If you have a compression tester (very cheap on E-Bay) even better, you can turn the bike over with the starter and check it that way.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Hey, welcome to the Forum GAVSP1.

Your find sounds interesting, if not then possibly satisfying. May you rediscover the remaining bliss you were expecting from the CB1100.

 

[bflint]

The flapping sound, sound like its from cylinder cover, from these component (circled in red).
Maybe you can use a stethoscope to confirm the location.

Here we go.

This should work. Thank you very much everyone i appreciate your help.
I put coil 1 on the 4th , the ticking is still there in the video.

Also there is that weird sound (like a zap) while the pump is turning on (injectors maybe?) , i haven't heard that sound in any videos of CBs. it's at 11 seconds, 1:50 ...

Thanks again.

Not sure about how to troubleshoot these "Reed valve comp." But I believe you can plug the hole (there's a rubber hose connected to these) to see if the sound change. If I remember correctly, its a waste gas management system. So shouldn't affect engine function.

This is the area that I also focused on for the ticking/clicking. Used a stethoscope and right side of valve cover was louder. I actually thought there might be an exhaust leak somewhere but could not find one. I ultimately resolve the ticking/clicking problem during by recent valve adjustment effort ... FYI, I don't think the problem was the valve clearances. During this effort, I disassembled the valve cover components including the two PAR reed valve assys, cleaned/soaked them with vinegar, and scrubbed with small parts cleaning brush ... all came out shiny clean. Note everything was covered in a thick/caked layer of black exhaust particles. Upon seeing this, my first thought was that the "metal reeds" could be sticking and or didn't close/seal flush with the body because of the particles. PS ... I also stripped and re-clearcoated the valve cover. ANYWAY, I have put 200 miles on the bike since then and there is no ticking/clicking ... yeah!

 

[cj599_imp]

really sounds like a plug wire arking out too me a valve lash sound isn't as high pitched as that id say you have a bad plug wire

i did watch the entire video as well,

 

[max]

Our Australian friend found the missing link ( o-ring ) i think.
Since the variable ticking sound disappeared when the combustion stopped ( sparkplug disconnected ) it is likely that the
exhaust reed valve seal is not working properly.
The pair valve system works on the principle of mixing air into the exhaust system by letting some air into the exhaust through a one way reed valve into the exhaust port using the "vacuum" that happens after the ex valves close and the shockwave makes it's way down the exhaust pipe, the resulting under pressure " sucks " some air past the reed valve and dilutes/ combusts the mixture resulting in cleaner exhaust emissions for the purpose of passing emission regulations.



The two openings to the exhaust channels can be seen in the picture between the spark plugs and the back of the rocker cover just outside of the tappet cover seal and will have an o-ring each in the tappet cover leading to the two reed valves bolted to the top of the valve tappet cover.

To test this you could use a plastic hose and listen to these openings for gas escaping here.

Second possibility is a faulty reed valve, this can be checked by inspecting the valves by removing the two bolts that hold the " flapper valve " housing to the tappet cover, these valves are meant to stop exhaust gas escaping through the air injection system, if a reed valve is not working it should be obvious by removing the rubber air hose to the flapper valve housing.

Question; has the tappet cover been removed in the past?

Very interesting find here GAVSP1, thanks for your help.

And thanks bflint for your update, appreciated.

 

[dave]

Hi All. I read this post with great interest because my bike makes the same clicking noise, and it comes and goes. I thought it might have been a fuel injector noise, but it appears that it might be a reed valve. I have a couple of questions:
1. Are the "smog valves" GAVSP1 is referring to the "exhaust reed valve" that Max is referring to? Is the "pair valve" Max is referring to the "Air Injection Control Valve" (36172-MCA-A62)? I am looking at the Illustrated Parts Breakdown and I do not see an O-ring associated with the Reed Valve (part number 18601-KEA-741).
2. The Illustrated Parts Breakdown illustration shows only two reed valves and two plates (12341-MAT-750) , but defines a quantity of four reeds and four plates required. Are there actually two reed valves and two plates installed into each reed valve cover?

Thank you for the clarification.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Dave, the Air Injection Control Valve is for purging the charcoal canister. Its part of the evap. emissions system.

As far as the diagram showing 2 and saying you need 4. Look closely at the space the reeds go in. There are 2 spaces per side. So 4 number 8 and 4 number 5 are needed.

 

[dave]

Dave, the Air Injection Control Valve is for purging the charcoal canister. Its part of the evap. emissions system.

As far as the diagram showing 2 and saying you need 4. Look closely at the space the reeds go in. There are 2 spaces per side. So 4 number 8 and 4 number 5 are needed.

Thank you Lord Popgun. Maybe somebody else can reply concerning the O-ring.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Dave, I made a mistake above and would like to correct it.

The Air Injection Control Valve in the parts fiche is called the Pair Control Solenoid Valve in the service manual.

The canister purge valve is referred to as the Evap Purge Control Solenoid valve in the manual.

The Evap valve has 2 hose connections. The PAIR valve has 3.

 

[bflint]

Dave, the Air Injection Control Valve is for purging the charcoal canister. Its part of the evap. emissions system.

As far as the diagram showing 2 and saying you need 4. Look closely at the space the reeds go in. There are 2 spaces per side. So 4 number 8 and 4 number 5 are needed.

Thank you Lord Popgun. Maybe somebody else can reply concerning the O-ring.

From my recent 2014 CB1100DX experience only parts involved are:
1. VALVE, REED (ARAI) 18601-KEA-741 qty=2
2. PLATE, PORT (AI) 12341-MAT-750 qty=2
I did not have to replace them. They cleaned up just fine with white vinegar.
There is no O-ring for this assy.
The valve cover assy has 4 O-rings (GASKET B, HEAD COVER 12396-KCR-940) assoicated with it but you don't need these unless you remove the valve cover.
*
IMPORTANT NOTE: Removing the Reed Valve Cover exposes the Reed Valve which has a very deceptive brass screw head showing. Don't attempt to remove the screw ... it is not meant to be removed! The whole rubber/metal Reed Valve assy just pops out, BUT not easily because of all the carbon build up. I cheated when I had the valve cover off by using compressed air to blow it out.

 

[michael1954]

Glad I saw this post. My 2013 CB1100 also makes a slight ticking sound I hear only when the bike is in a quiet mode, like slowing down or not accelerating. My hearing is excellent, so I know it is there, but still a funny sound.

Our Australian friend found the missing link ( o-ring ) i think.
Since the variable ticking sound disappeared when the combustion stopped ( sparkplug disconnected ) it is likely that the
exhaust reed valve seal is not working properly.
The pair valve system works on the principle of mixing air into the exhaust system by letting some air into the exhaust through a one way reed valve into the exhaust port using the "vacuum" that happens after the ex valves close and the shockwave makes it's way down the exhaust pipe, the resulting under pressure " sucks " some air past the reed valve and dilutes/ combusts the mixture resulting in cleaner exhaust emissions for the purpose of passing emission regulations.



The two openings to the exhaust channels can be seen in the picture between the spark plugs and the back of the rocker cover just outside of the tappet cover seal and will have an o-ring each in the tappet cover leading to the two reed valves bolted to the top of the valve tappet cover.

To test this you could use a plastic hose and listen to these openings for gas escaping here.

Second possibility is a faulty reed valve, this can be checked by inspecting the valves by removing the two bolts that hold the " flapper valve " housing to the tappet cover, these valves are meant to stop exhaust gas escaping through the air injection system, if a reed valve is not working it should be obvious by removing the rubber air hose to the flapper valve housing.

Question; has the tappet cover been removed in the past?

Very interesting find here GAVSP1, thanks for your help.

And thanks bflint for your update, appreciated.

Hi, anyway to mark the area in the photo you are talking about. I do not know the internals of this engine well enough to be sure I am looking at the right spot. Thanks, Michael

 

[Lord Popgun]

Michael, Look at the pic in post 19 of this thread.

 

[michael1954]

Michael, Look at the pic in post 19 of this thread.

Thanks! My bike is not making the sound as loud as the bike in the video does, and I only hear it when the bike is running quietly. Does anyone believe this ticking sound is going to hurt the engine? Mine is so quite, I am not sure if I should be worried about it right now.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Are you sure it's not just the injectors clicking away normally?

 

[dave]

Thanks! My bike is not making the sound as loud as the bike in the video does, and I only hear it when the bike is running quietly. Does anyone believe this ticking sound is going to hurt the engine? Mine is so quite, I am not sure if I should be worried about it right now.
[/QUOTE]
The ticking sound in my bike comes and goes. I can only hear it when the engine is idling, as it stops when the RPMs are increased. Sometimes it is louder than other times. I thought it was the fuel injectors clicking. The next time I hear the clicking I'll use the old screwdriver to the ear trick to see if I can better locate it. I performed the screwdriver test and inspected the area near the counter balancer adjuster, and determined the sound was not coming from that area. I did inspect at the fuel injectors and thought the sound was coming from that area, but now I want to inspect the area at the reed valves to be certain. I love the way the members of this forum all join in to help each other to resolve our little issues!