GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Excellent pdedse. Solid Honda confidence.
The OBSERVED Valve Clearance thread
- Thread starter Pterodactyl_imp
- Start date
Tev62
Road warrior
Very handy numbers, thanks for the info.pdedse_imp said:
max
Road warrior
Thanks Pdedse, all entered into the spreadsheet;
observed valve clearance thread google spreadsheet
Just as a sidenote; my intakes had hardly moved and the exhaust had opened up some over 40.000 km. but i do take it easy.
In addition to that i actually glued my rubber gasket into the aluminum cover and the slight oil weep has stopped........
observed valve clearance thread google spreadsheet
Just as a sidenote; my intakes had hardly moved and the exhaust had opened up some over 40.000 km. but i do take it easy.
In addition to that i actually glued my rubber gasket into the aluminum cover and the slight oil weep has stopped........
tod.branko_imp
Been there
What did you use to glue it? I do have some sweating from the front outer corners of cylinders 1 and 4, got a brand new gasket but haven't mounted it just yet, waiting for the time to check the valve clearancemax_imp said:
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
max
Road warrior
What did you use to glue it? I do have some sweating from the front outer corners of cylinders 1 and 4, got a brand new gasket but haven't mounted it just yet, waiting for the time to check the valve clearancetod.branko_imp said:
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
Hi Todd, i used "ados f2" which is a contact adhesive, honey color and also known as " bisonkit " in holland at the time, it is like syrup, i laid a consistent bead in the alu cover and put the gasket in.
Some expelled itself when i pushed the gasket home and i just wiped that up.
There were remnants of a contact adhesive on the rubber gasket as best as i could work out.
Put black silicone sealant in the CORNERS OF THE CHROME BUTTONS as described in the manual,placed the cover in it's place and tightened it up carefully.
As a substitute i could have used black silicone too but here we are.
Previously i put silicone sealant between the gasket and the cyl. head on the mating surfaces, that did nothing to stop the oil weeping, just in the wrong place, the seal works fine as it is provided.......... and i stopped tightening the bolts when they bottomed out, over time they will settle and "click" when unscrewed as usual, piece of cake to check for tightness of them if you feel uncertain.
tod.branko_imp
Been there
What did you use to glue it? I do have some sweating from the front outer corners of cylinders 1 and 4, got a brand new gasket but haven't mounted it just yet, waiting for the time to check the valve clearancemax_imp said:
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
Hi Todd, i used "ados f2" which is a contact adhesive, honey color and also known as " bisonkit " in holland at the time, it is like syrup, i laid a consistent bead in the alu cover and put the gasket in.
Some expelled itself when i pushed the gasket home and i just wiped that up.
There were remnants of a contact adhesive on the rubber gasket as best as i could work out.
Put black silicone sealant in the CORNERS OF THE CHROME BUTTONS as described in the manual,placed the cover in it's place and tightened it up carefully.
As a substitute i could have used black silicone too but here we are.
Previously i put silicone sealant between the gasket and the cyl. head on the mating surfaces, that did nothing to stop the oil weeping, just in the wrong place, the seal works fine as it is provided.......... and i stopped tightening the bolts when they bottomed out, over time they will settle and "click" when unscrewed as usual, piece of cake to check for tightness of them if you feel uncertain. Thanks! I have tried tightening the bolts, but somewhere just when I twisted the first one quarter of a turn I decided against it, have overtightened a bolt before. I'll look for the bisonkit, I also have a bunch of high temp sealants on hand, so I'll think about that
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
max
Road warrior
That sounds like a good idea,these are small threads on the bolts, easy to "scre--" them up, just forgot to mention i used a tube of adhesive, makes forming a bead easy.
Another sidenote; there is no need to take the spark plugs out and the way they sit in the cooling cavity it is very easy to drop some accumulated grit into the cylinder, once inside it can do some damage inside, just something to be aware of.
Another sidenote; there is no need to take the spark plugs out and the way they sit in the cooling cavity it is very easy to drop some accumulated grit into the cylinder, once inside it can do some damage inside, just something to be aware of.
tod.branko_imp
Been there
Do you mean I can remove the valve cover without removing the spark plugs? That's actually pretty neat because those spark plugs are so touchy and not very accessiblemax_imp said:
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
max
Road warrior
In a word; Yep.
tod.branko_imp
Been there
Thank you very much, that's a very useful tip
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
bvictory_imp
Running like a top
All I can say about the first major service (12000kms) is that it was done at a large dealership and they charged me for valve adjustment and shims. They couldn't provide detail.Pterodactyl_imp said:
Cheers
I am very surprised that they would be out of spec at 8k miles. I believe that the dealer checked them but I seriously doubt they made any adjustments. They earn a pretty penny just checking valve specs.
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
The person whom bought my 2013 last year had a valve check done at 17500 with a competent mechanic at a Honda dealer in NC . They where all in spec and no adjustments needed. All my bikes run on Mobil 1 full synthetic 10/40 motorcycle oil and never revved over 5000 rpm (just for your info )
That was the first valve check done on the bike .
That was the first valve check done on the bike .
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Indeed.bvictory_imp said:
If the machine is out-of-warranty, the urgency can feel more relaxed, especially being a Honda.
max
Road warrior
Very glad Pterodactyl started this useful thread so we can add our experience based findings and combine them for real-world insight in the machinery, and form a sound opinion for ourselves.
Cheers P.:worship: ( European grammar mistakes included
)
Cheers P.:worship: ( European grammar mistakes included
)Houtman_imp
Road warrior
It is nice that as a "foreigner " you can get away with spelling mistakes , it comes in very useful sometimes . When I came to the USA in 1984 I made plenty of blunders just using the wrong words , one time I said to some one that is wife is "homely " I did not know that that means something different in the USA as it does in England.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Everyone slips up eventually. At least one can settle and get rooted in their new country.Houtman_imp said:
= = =
Now, to some far off English-speakin' foreigners, that last sentence may seem offensive.
Nachodaddy
Road warrior
I have always been impressed and amazed at people who speak more than one language. The first 65 years of my life I thought I spoke English, then I moved to England for three years.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
Nacho, now move to Australia and learn again 
Nachodaddy
Road warrior
Wish I could. At my age, if the 14hour plane ride didn't kill me, I'd probably kill someone. And that is just getting there.Lord Popgun_imp said:Nacho, now move to Australia and learn again
The Gecko_imp
Been there
The answer to my question may be somewhere buried in the 16 pages of this thread, but I can't find it.
It is clear that with this design the cams have to come out when you need to replace a shim.
But how about the process of just checking the clearance without replacing the shim/s. Can the measurement be done between the top of the bucket and the cam - without the cams coming out ? Seems logical to me. What do I miss ? Or do I just misread some of the descriptions.
It is clear that with this design the cams have to come out when you need to replace a shim.
But how about the process of just checking the clearance without replacing the shim/s. Can the measurement be done between the top of the bucket and the cam - without the cams coming out ? Seems logical to me. What do I miss ? Or do I just misread some of the descriptions.