The OBSERVED Valve Clearance thread

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Pterodactyl_imp

Road warrior
Thread starter
Since I have joined this forum I have seen numerous threads and posts relating to valve clearance. There has been much discussion on how to, when, or even if this check is even necessary. What I would like to do is keep this thread constrained to OBSERVED VALVE CLEARANCE and avoid ANY discussion other than that. Model and mileage? Yes. Previosly shimed? Might be useful. Vin number? Up to you. I would rather you did not post comment on the oil you use, where the best burger in Peoria, PA can be found, or wether your mother-in-law rides a Road King. However I am a realist, if you really must, go ahead.

Model: '10.

Clearance specifications:


EX: 0.28 +/- 0.03 mm (0.011 +/- 0.001 in)

IN: 0.15 +/- 0.03 mm (0.006 +/- 0.001 in)


Mileage: 74000kms (46000miles) .

Previously shimed? Yes at 12000kms (8000miles).

The first number is the left side valve of the pair.


OBSERVED CLEARANCES

Cylinder #1

EX: .28 mm .28 mm

IN: .16 mm .12 mm


Cylinder #2

EX: .26 mm .26 mm

IN: .14 mm .13 mm

Cylinder #3

EX: .27 mm .28 mm

IN: .16 mm .13 mm


Cylinder #4

EX: .26 mm .26 mm

IN: .15 mm .18 mm


Cheers
 
All mine were exactly at the middle of the specification, based on my "feel" developed over the years. None tight, none loose. Just enough drag on the feeler gage to make me happy.

Done at just over 8,000 miles or ~13,000 km.

Looks like yours are all within spec now, but could you post what they were at the first adjustment and which ones were shimmed?

Conclusion could be that some require shimming at the first service but once "worn in" they tend to hold the adjustment well.

I cannot go along with the idea that this should be ignored. Yeah, it's a day's work but it's a machine, it can wear out or break. Better to be safe than sorry.

I do think knowing the type and grade of oil would also be relevant so I fell compelled to state this. 10W40 from the first change.
 
Model: 2013
Mileage: 17,000kms
Previous Adjustment: No.
Result: 11/16 valves perfect or within .01mm of spec. 4 exhaust valves and one intake at .02mm looser than spec. No adjustments required.

Observed:
1: E: .28, .29 I: .15, .15
2: E: .30, .29 I: .15, .16
3: E: .30, .30 I: .17, .15
4: E: .30, .28 I: .16, .16

Ptero: Assuming you shimmed them back to middle spec at first service, that's definitely not that much movement in 60K.
 
Your exhaust is almost exactly where mine were at the first check at 9,500 mi. The intake side for some are a little tighter. (Mine were all at .15 with some maybe +.01). Tony, do you think the techs really did anything first go around? I know you were a little disappointed in their work on other fronts.
 
Thread starter
DAC_imp said:
Your exhaust is almost exactly where mine were at the first check at 9,500 mi. The intake side for some are a little tighter. (Mine were all at .15 with some maybe +.01). Tony, do you think the techs really did anything first go around? I know you were a little disappointed in their work on other fronts.
Click to expand...
All I can say about the first major service (12000kms) is that it was done at a large dealership and they charged me for valve adjustment and shims. They couldn't provide detail.

Cheers
 
Fair enough. I will most likely go back in for another check at 20K mi. That should be about 2 years. If they're still in spec, I'll be done checking valves.
 
I'm not particularly proud of this fact but it is another data point. I was checking my valves every 8,000 miles up to about 24,000 miles and didn't see any perceivable change at all. I now have about 54,000 miles on it and I probably won't check them again until the cam cover gasket starts to leak or I start worrying about it too much. The bike still runs like new.
 
dealer performed 8000 mile service on 2014 cb1100 dlx.
Clearance specifications:
EX: 0.28 +/- 0.03 mm
IN: 0.15 +/- 0.03 mm
Observed:
1: E: .28, .27 I: .14, .15
2: E: .26, .28 I: .14, .16
3: E: .27, .29 I: .15, .16
4: E: .29, .28 I: .16, .14
no adjustments needed or done.
 
Mileage: 61,428 miles (98,285 km)

#1 - exhaust .30,.30 intake .15,.15
#2 - exhaust .30,.30 intake .15,.15
#3 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .15,.15
#4 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .18,.18

No adjustment needed.

I don't see anything getting tight so I'll probably go another 36,000 miles before I check them again.
 
Just did mine at my dealer with 8300 miles on the clock--- all within spec, mechanic suggested waiting 16K more miles before checking again
 
I just got my 2014 DLX back from the dealership / 8000 mile service.

8079 actual miles.

No adjustment needed or done.

#1 - exhaust .30,.30 intake .15,.15
#2 - exhaust .30,.30 intake .15,.15
#3 - exhaust .28,.30 intake .18,.18
#4 - exhaust .30,.28 intake .18,.15
 
sanoke_imp said:
Mileage: 61,428 miles (98,285 km)

#1 - exhaust .30,.30 intake .15,.15
#2 - exhaust .30,.30 intake .15,.15
#3 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .15,.15
#4 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .18,.18

No adjustment needed.

I don't see anything getting tight so I'll probably go another 36,000 miles before I check them again.
Click to expand...
This wasn't the first time you checked your clearances, was it?
 
Dave_imp said:
sanoke_imp said:
Mileage: 61,428 miles (98,285 km)

#1 - exhaust .30,.30 intake .15,.15
#2 - exhaust .30,.30 intake .15,.15
#3 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .15,.15
#4 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .18,.18

No adjustment needed.

I don't see anything getting tight so I'll probably go another 36,000 miles before I check them again.
Click to expand...
This wasn't the first time you checked your clearances, was it?
Click to expand...
This wasn't the first time you checked your clearances, was it? No, 8k, 16k, 26k. All well within spec.
 
14 STD 7,800 miles

#1
.011, .011
.006, .006

#2
.011, .011
.006, .006

#3
.011, .011
.007, .007

#4
.011, .011
.007, .007

No adjustment needed
 
Just Doing the Valve Clearances.

#1
IN: 0.16, 0.15
OUT: 0.28, 0.31

#2
IN: 0.18, 0.15
OUT: 0.32, 0.30

#3
IN: 0.19, 0.16
OUT: 0.29, 0.29

#4
IN: 0.18, 0.16
OUT: 0.32, 0.31

As you can see I have a 3 valves with border line clearances on the loose side.

I'm debating the need to adjust and might just check again after the summer...

Am I being lazy or do you agree?
 
beardyweirdy@me.com_imp said:
Just Doing the Valve Clearances.

#1
IN: 0.16, 0.15
OUT: 0.28, 0.31

#2
IN: 0.18, 0.15
OUT: 0.32, 0.30

#3
IN: 0.19, 0.16
OUT: 0.29, 0.29

#4
IN: 0.18, 0.16
OUT: 0.32, 0.31

As you can see I have a 3 valves with border line clearances on the loose side.

I'm debating the need to adjust and might just check again after the summer...

Am I being lazy or do you agree?
Click to expand...
My only experience with adjusting valve clearances is with 1960s era Hondas. I found that valve clearances tended to tighten-up over time with the stem/nut adjustments, especially on the exhaust side.

That said, I have no idea if this is the case with modern day Hondas like our CB1100s. Can any one comment on on this?
 
I think there’s more room for making a critical sequence mistake, or damaging a part, or contaminating with dirt or a metal shaving whenever you do the high-skilled cam removal to adjust a shim that’s marginally out of clearance.
And nobody can set the motor better to spec than the builder at the factory in Japan. Especially if it’s your 1st time doing it on the CB1100. Which is also usually the case at a Honda dealer because they sell so few CB1100’s.
Change your oil often and don’t over rev it or over-heat it is the best way to maintain your valve clearance from the factory.
 
736cc_imp said:
I think there’s more room for making a critical sequence mistake, or damaging a part, or contaminating with dirt or a metal shaving whenever you do the high-skilled cam removal to adjust a shim that’s marginally out of clearance.
And nobody can set the motor better to spec than the builder at the factory in Japan. Especially if it’s your 1st time doing it on the CB1100. Which is also usually the case at a Honda dealer because they sell so few CB1100’s.
Change your oil often and don’t over rev it or over-heat it is the best way to maintain your valve clearance from the factory.
Click to expand...

While I agree with the possibility of dirt, leak, improper tq spec, etc- the timing is easy enough. A tooth is a tooth, timing marks line up...

That being said, if someone has never timed an engine- and isn’t fully comfortable ahead of time, go start on a single cyl bike. :)




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
beardyweirdy@me.com_imp said:
Just Doing the Valve Clearances.

#1
IN: 0.16, 0.15
OUT: 0.28, 0.31

#2
IN: 0.18, 0.15
OUT: 0.32, 0.30

#3
IN: 0.19, 0.16
OUT: 0.29, 0.29

#4
IN: 0.18, 0.16
OUT: 0.32, 0.31

As you can see I have a 3 valves with border line clearances on the loose side.

I'm debating the need to adjust and might just check again after the summer...

Am I being lazy or do you agree?
Click to expand...
It takes several hours to disassemble the bike to get to the valves so you can check 'em, why not just finish the job? Of course removing the cams can seem a little involved.

If they are on the loose side, for exhaust valves, that's actually not such a bad thing. You could probably go another 4,000 miles and check/adjust at that time. They will run cooler. The valve seats are of excellent quality as are the valves.

Your call, boss.
 
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