Hi Josh. Removing the valve cover was a lot of work, at least I believe it is. I am used to working on older bikes where everything is much easier. Just removing the gas tank on the CB1100 is a real PITA. There is about 3 inches clearance to gain access to the fuel line disconnect valve and you can barely get your hands in there. I compressed the plastic tabs as far as they would go, using a needle nose pliers, and the joint would still not come apart. I resorting to using pliers and a screwdriver to force the joint apart and I cracked the plastic connector, which cost $80.00 to replace. I can remove the gas tank on my CB750F in about 60 seconds, and it doesn't require any tools. Removing all of the items on top of the valve cover was very time-consuming. That metallic clip, with the two nuts welded to the ends, is a really bad design also. It is nearly impossible to even see, and even more difficult to even touch, and it will fall out. I epoxied mine to the plastic heat shield before reinstalling it. I am sure the job gets much easier after you have done it once, but I believe that it would take about tens times as long to adjust the valves on this bike than it does for my old CB750. Even my VFR800 is much easier, and with the gear-driven cams on the VFR it makes cam removal much easier and quicker. Did you have any difficulty disconnecting the fuel line? How did you deal with the metal clip with the nuts welded to the ends?PowerDubs_imp said:
The OBSERVED Valve Clearance thread
- Thread starter Pterodactyl_imp
- Start date
DaSwami_imp
Been there
Well snap, this is in direct contrast to all those in my swapping tank thread who said it was easy peasy. So which is it??Dave_imp said:
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Everyone has their own comfort levels mechanically.
I had no issues with any of it but I’m used to taking apart the most complicated car ever built.
I would not say that taking the gas tank off to swap it as you want to do is difficult, but there are some fidly bits.
You want to pay attention to things such as not over tightening the fuel pump flange and being careful when transferring the fuel pump because of the level sensor arm. Make sure the gasket surface is clean etc.
So I suppose I would not just throw someone who is new at working on motorcycles, cars etc. at this job unsupervised.
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I had no issues with any of it but I’m used to taking apart the most complicated car ever built.
I would not say that taking the gas tank off to swap it as you want to do is difficult, but there are some fidly bits.
You want to pay attention to things such as not over tightening the fuel pump flange and being careful when transferring the fuel pump because of the level sensor arm. Make sure the gasket surface is clean etc.
So I suppose I would not just throw someone who is new at working on motorcycles, cars etc. at this job unsupervised.
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Inhouse Bob
Road warrior
It helps to have a prehensile tail :angel:DaSwami_imp said:
But! I did it once and lived to tell, so you almost certainly can, too. I find it always helps in stressful situations to have a friend on hand to cheer you on and hold your beer. But mostly, patience will pay off.
Go for it. Anything you do wrong can be easily fixed for not much money and the pride in a job well done will be worth it.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Inhouse Bob_imp said:
Unless something under there leaks flammable drops into a hot engine area.
Inhouse Bob
Road warrior
PowerDubs_imp said:Inhouse Bob_imp said:
Unless something under there leaks flammable drops into a hot engine area.
Unless something under there leaks flammable drops into a hot engine area.
You are not being helpful:rofl:
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
A healthy fear is a good thing- go slow, be careful, triple check everything- and don't use pliers or screwdivers on soft plastic bits. 
If the thought of going up in flames due to your own screw up scares you- pay a shop.
And for the record- I don't trust any shop. Doesn't matter it a car or motorcycle.
Pickle eh?
If the thought of going up in flames due to your own screw up scares you- pay a shop.
And for the record- I don't trust any shop. Doesn't matter it a car or motorcycle.
Pickle eh?
Mscb1100_imp
Been there
Hi Josh. Removing the valve cover was a lot of work, at least I believe it is. I am used to working on older bikes where everything is much easier. Just removing the gas tank on the CB1100 is a real PITA. There is about 3 inches clearance to gain access to the fuel line disconnect valve and you can barely get your hands in there. I compressed the plastic tabs as far as they would go, using a needle nose pliers, and the joint would still not come apart. I resorting to using pliers and a screwdriver to force the joint apart and I cracked the plastic connector, which cost $80.00 to replace. I can remove the gas tank on my CB750F in about 60 seconds, and it doesn't require any tools. Removing all of the items on top of the valve cover was very time-consuming. That metallic clip, with the two nuts welded to the ends, is a really bad design also. It is nearly impossible to even see, and even more difficult to even touch, and it will fall out. I epoxied mine to the plastic heat shield before reinstalling it. I am sure the job gets much easier after you have done it once, but I believe that it would take about tens times as long to adjust the valves on this bike than it does for my old CB750. Even my VFR800 is much easier, and with the gear-driven cams on the VFR it makes cam removal much easier and quicker. Did you have any difficulty disconnecting the fuel line? How did you deal with the metal clip with the nuts welded to the ends?Dave_imp said:
Hi,
Did you pull the black rubber plug away from the blue green clip?
It fits into the slots in the clip to keep it secured.
It is impossible to release the fuel clip without removing it
Hi,
Did you pull the black rubber plug away from the blue green clip?
It fits into the slots in the clip to keep it secured.
It is impossible to release the fuel clip without removing it
[/QUOTE]
Yes, I pulled the black, rubber plug back first. I squeezed the plastic tangs as far inward as they could possibly go (until they contacted the metallic nipple on the fuel tank), and still the hooks would not disconnect from the connector. I was forced to use a screwdriver to bend the plastic hooks outward to release clips and I cracked the plastic housing. Am I the only one who experienced difficultly disconnecting the fuel line?
PowerDubs: What is the most complicated car ever built? You evidently have a lot more experience working on newer vehicles than I do, and a lot more patience. I can do three or four top-ends on my YZ250 (2-stroke) quicker than I can just inspect the valves on my CB1100.
Other than warranty work (which was extremely limited) I have never taken any of my vehicles to the shop for repair (I have owned 33 motorcycles in my lifetime). I do not trust anybody to work on my vehicles.
Did you pull the black rubber plug away from the blue green clip?
It fits into the slots in the clip to keep it secured.
It is impossible to release the fuel clip without removing it
[/QUOTE]
Yes, I pulled the black, rubber plug back first. I squeezed the plastic tangs as far inward as they could possibly go (until they contacted the metallic nipple on the fuel tank), and still the hooks would not disconnect from the connector. I was forced to use a screwdriver to bend the plastic hooks outward to release clips and I cracked the plastic housing. Am I the only one who experienced difficultly disconnecting the fuel line?
PowerDubs: What is the most complicated car ever built? You evidently have a lot more experience working on newer vehicles than I do, and a lot more patience. I can do three or four top-ends on my YZ250 (2-stroke) quicker than I can just inspect the valves on my CB1100.
Other than warranty work (which was extremely limited) I have never taken any of my vehicles to the shop for repair (I have owned 33 motorcycles in my lifetime). I do not trust anybody to work on my vehicles.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
VW Phaeton.
We have had 4 so far in my family. I've owned 2, my father in law has owned 2 of his own, and he has since moved on to a Bentley Continental GT which is basically the same car + 2 turbos.
The Phaeton is actually substantially more complicated than the Bentley in many ways- it's climate control system for example.
As long as you got the bike apart and back together with no lingering issues- what happens in the middle doesn't matter to anyone other than you, your time and wallet. We've all had stuff break.
Totally off topic, but here is a taste. Amusingly this picture does not contain all the options available- such as refrigerator, solar panel sunroof, retractable power desks for the rear seats, reclining rear seats, etc. Really an incredible car once you delve into the details.
We have had 4 so far in my family. I've owned 2, my father in law has owned 2 of his own, and he has since moved on to a Bentley Continental GT which is basically the same car + 2 turbos.
The Phaeton is actually substantially more complicated than the Bentley in many ways- it's climate control system for example.
As long as you got the bike apart and back together with no lingering issues- what happens in the middle doesn't matter to anyone other than you, your time and wallet. We've all had stuff break.
Totally off topic, but here is a taste. Amusingly this picture does not contain all the options available- such as refrigerator, solar panel sunroof, retractable power desks for the rear seats, reclining rear seats, etc. Really an incredible car once you delve into the details.
Some of you don't trust anyone to work on your bike. I don't have enough knowledge to do the more difficult bits of maintenance, and so I have to to trust others to do it. Luckily, I think, I have a good mechanic and I took my bike to him today to do a valve clearance check.
My bike has done nearly 87,000 kms (54,000 miles) and the valve clearances have been checked 5 times prior to this. I missed one scheduled check on the basis that there'd never been a problem and reports here and elsewhere that the service frequency is too high.
I asked the mechanic to tell me what the observed clearances were so I could report them here. They were:
Ex: .25 .33 .30 .30 .25 .30 .33 .28 (spec .28 +-.03). Two were out of spec.
In: .18 .18 .18 .18 .15 .18 .18 .20 (spec .15 +-.03) One was out of spec.
The mechanic 'pulled the cams' and returned the lot to spec on the basis that there was no point in not doing them all while the cams were out. I may well be wrong, but that seems reasonable to me. The cost of shims was all of $AU1.50.
I hope this adds to the knowledge base on this issue. For me, it seems that checking from time to time is sensible as it appears they do go out of spec.
My bike has done nearly 87,000 kms (54,000 miles) and the valve clearances have been checked 5 times prior to this. I missed one scheduled check on the basis that there'd never been a problem and reports here and elsewhere that the service frequency is too high.
I asked the mechanic to tell me what the observed clearances were so I could report them here. They were:
Ex: .25 .33 .30 .30 .25 .30 .33 .28 (spec .28 +-.03). Two were out of spec.
In: .18 .18 .18 .18 .15 .18 .18 .20 (spec .15 +-.03) One was out of spec.
The mechanic 'pulled the cams' and returned the lot to spec on the basis that there was no point in not doing them all while the cams were out. I may well be wrong, but that seems reasonable to me. The cost of shims was all of $AU1.50.
I hope this adds to the knowledge base on this issue. For me, it seems that checking from time to time is sensible as it appears they do go out of spec.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thanks for the update. Just curious, did you need adjustments any of the other times?
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Ex: .25 .33 .30 .30 .25 .30 .33 .28 (spec .28 +-.03). Two were out of spec.
In: .18 .18 .18 .18 .15 .18 .18 .20 (spec .15 +-.03) One was out of spec.
Thanks for the update Cormanus. Can you tell us how long it took for the mechanic to do this work? And this is a question for all: I thought that it was typical for the type of valve system these bikes have for the valves to become tighter (clearances decrease) due to wear, but it seems that we're getting reports of the opposite happening. If the clearances are increasing does this mean that the cam lobes, or the buckets, are wearing?
In: .18 .18 .18 .18 .15 .18 .18 .20 (spec .15 +-.03) One was out of spec.
Thanks for the update Cormanus. Can you tell us how long it took for the mechanic to do this work? And this is a question for all: I thought that it was typical for the type of valve system these bikes have for the valves to become tighter (clearances decrease) due to wear, but it seems that we're getting reports of the opposite happening. If the clearances are increasing does this mean that the cam lobes, or the buckets, are wearing?
No. Never before. I confess I was a bit surprised this time.PowerDubs_imp said:
He billed me for 5 hours, but he also changed the brake and clutch fluid and gave the bike a good check over.Dave_imp said:
max
Road warrior
Thanks Cormanus, thanks for your update.
Because Pterodactyl wanted to keep the thread brief i made a ( my primitive first ) spreadsheet and will try to attach it to this post, see if it's any good
or;
Did i mention it was primitive?
max
Because Pterodactyl wanted to keep the thread brief i made a ( my primitive first ) spreadsheet and will try to attach it to this post, see if it's any good
or;
Did i mention it was primitive?
max
Nice one, Max. You could do it in Google Sheets and just provide a link so those who wanted to could update it.
max
Road warrior
Thanks for the advice Cormanus, i was hoping you would come up with the idea ( clairvoyant ? ) .
Had no idea google sheets existed so googled it and bungled my way around it, turned out i could just copy my"valve.ods" file and pasted into google sheets, gave it a name and there it is.
Have created a link that says everyone can alter the sheet;
observed valve clearance thread google spreadsheet
To enter data just click on the cell, it highlights in blue and type in what is required, it auto saves as far as i can understand, so you can just walk away from it and it's done; neat and easy.
All done Dave.
Ahhhm kinda don't know where to put it now so it is easy to find for everyone else......help!
max
Had no idea google sheets existed so googled it and bungled my way around it, turned out i could just copy my"valve.ods" file and pasted into google sheets, gave it a name and there it is.
Have created a link that says everyone can alter the sheet;
observed valve clearance thread google spreadsheet
To enter data just click on the cell, it highlights in blue and type in what is required, it auto saves as far as i can understand, so you can just walk away from it and it's done; neat and easy.
All done Dave.
Ahhhm kinda don't know where to put it now so it is easy to find for everyone else......help!
max
Well done, Max. I’ll give some thought to where to put the link.