The Cormanus Chronicles: Riding South

Cormanus

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20 January 2026

Day 1
Brisbane to Walcha


Click on the image for a scrollable map

While I had a constant battle with the onsie in 2025, and even though he had to don wet weather gear once, AussieFlyer apparently enjoyed himself and was keen to ride again. And so, late in 2025, I made a vague attempt to gather a modest group of CB1100 riders: AussieFlyer, Pterodactyl, noroomtomove.

The plan was for Pterodactyl and AussieFlyer to meet in Omeo in mid January and ride north together. I'd ride south and we'd meet somewhere around Walcha and ride the Oxley Highway, before continuing south. Pterodactyl would peel off to Sydney while AussieFlyer and I would keep going to ride some mountain country in New South Wales and Victoria, hooking up with noroomtomove somewhere along the way.

Did it work? Of course not.

Ridiculous heat and bushfires in northern Victoria combined with a family matter prevented AussieFlyer and Pterodactyl meeting. Rain in Queensland and into New South Wales, combined with a general reluctance to have to have a constant battle with the onsie, delayed my start.

Pterodactyl had a pleasant solo ride and teased us with occasional vignettes and pictures.

Five days later than planned, I headed south, planning to meet AussieFlyer in Boorowa at the end of my day 3.

I left early and, nastily perhaps, enjoyed the view of the commuter traffic heading the opposite way.
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What to do? I could take the New England Highway, although I knew there were extensive roadworks over Cunninghams Gap which I was keen to avoid. Or I could take the road oft travelled over the border to Kyogle, along the Summerland Way to the delightful Grafton-Armidale Road.

I did none of those. Instead, I took the uninspiring Ipswich Motorway, turned onto the Warrego Highway and rode to Gatton where I filled the tank and set off on a lovely ride through Ma Ma Creek, West Haldon and Pilton which, from a very flat start, turns into a pleasant climb onto the Downs. Now I think about it, I rode home that way after the great onsie ride.
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Leaving Gatton

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A cutting on the way up the hill

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Another part of the ride

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Up on the Downs

Thence around Warwick to Stanthorpe where I had coffee and filled the fuel tank before setting off on the ride to Texas which I always find entertaining. It didn't disappoint.
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On the road to Texas

Then a new road: to Inverell via Ashford. Not so many twists and turns, but very little traffic which is always a winner with me. I stopped for more fuel, coffee and a bite to eat in Inverell before heading south with a plan to ride to Bendemeer and then Tamworth where I'd stop for the night.
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Taking a break at Inverell

I've often described Thunderbolts Way from Walcha to Gloucester. It's a favourite ride with a fast northern section leading through farm and forestry land to a steep and entertaining descent into Gloucester. However, Thunderbolts Way continues north west to Inverell and I headed out along the start of the section to Uralla before leaving it at Bundarra. It was lots of fun: quick with long sweeping corners. I'll go back and ride the rest of it to Uralla sometime in the future.

I rode through the tiny hamlet of Kingston and was almost immediately confronted by a dirt road.
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The start of the dirt at Kingston

Ever since an adventure in 2024 (see this report) I've been very leery of dirt roads, particularly on my own. Indeed, as I sat looking at it, I decided it was the other end of a dirt road that Pterodactyl and I baulked at on an earlier ride — see Day 2 of this report.

So, slightly reluctantly, I turned around and made my way along a sealed road to Uralla. Somewhere along the way I decided that Walcha meant little time on the highway so I rode there and checked into the Apsley Arms Hotel. Lucky, too, as the huge, annual country music festival was on in Tamworth and I'd've been bunking down in a stable somewhere. If I was lucky.




21 January 2026

Day 2
Walcha to Rylstone



Click on the image for a scrollable map

Even in summer, riding in New England is decidedly cool in the morning and I was pleased I'd packed my warm gear. I set off south along Thunderbolts Way. The road's in good condition and undulates a little as it passes through cleared farming land. It's a quick ride with little traffic to worry about.

I fully intended to turn off onto the Topdale Road and head down off the range towards Dungowan. My plan was to ride sou-sou-west to the Bylong Valley via some back roads alongside the New England Highway.

But, as with all Cormanus' plans, the cement failed to cure and I got to Topdale Road and stayed on Thunderbolts Way to Gloucester. Patches of forest — some natural, some planted — start to appear and the undulations increase.
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Thunderbolts Way

On a section of the road known as the Mares Run is the Pioneer Lookout, where I stopped for a photo opportunity.
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After that, there's a very steep descent with a lovely sign warning drivers of automatic vehicles that hot brakes fail. The road then flattens before running through bush along beside the Manning River and then through farmland for the final run into Gloucester.

I didn't need to stop for fuel so I kept going. At Dungog I had coffee and bought petrol. I'm happy to report that the road surface at the southern end of Thunderbolts Way, and for much of the road into Dungog is in much better condition than last time I rode them. Indeed, Dungog has always been my benchmark for just how bad a road surface can get!

The ride from Dungog to East Gresford to Singleton is wonderful. It starts with some hills and a pretty ride along a ridge, before descending into East Gresford and a plain which proves an entertaining run. I like these roads, not because they're full of endless twists and turns — they're not; or because the surface is brilliant so I can strap on the leather hemlet and goggles and ride like the boy racer — because it's not; but because they're scenic enough to be interesting, have enough turns and undulations (and bumps) to keep a bloke interested and awake and because there's very little traffic on them.
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Between Dungog and Singleton

I paused briefly at Jerrys Plains to drink lots of water — it had become hot — and to recalculate my route to get off the highway. There's a much more agreeable back road through Doyles Creek and Bureen which got me to Denman where I paused for water, coffee, food and petrol for the bike.

The first time I went to Denman was in 2014 on my second or third serious ride on the CB1100. I rode to Sydney, joined Pterodactyl and Jalalski and we went to Phillip Island for the MotoGP. Sadly the pictures no longer appear, but the report is here. I mention it because there was dirt on the quickest route from Denman through Yarrawa to the Bylong Valley. I glossed over it at the time, but it was nasty, slippery dirt which took one over a not inconsequential hill, and I didn't like it at all. Happily, the road is now sealed and lovely. What a difference 12 years and some bitumen makes.

As for the Bylong Valley Way, what can I say? The surface is variable; it can be hot — as it was this day; but it's pretty, has variable scenery, two lovely hills and very little traffic. What's not to like?

After joining it, the road runs past small escarpments, but one reasonably quickly arrives at a hill which offers an interesting climb with a couple of very tight corners, before one descends into a steepish, bushy valley for a couple of kilometres. There's a similar hill at the other end of the valley, so it always feels to me like I've arrived in a sort of secret valley protected on all sides by hills. It reminds me of a 19th century Australian novel, Robbery Under Arms where Captain Starlight's gang took their stolen horses to a lush hidden valley. I gather from the Wikipedia article that the valley is thought to be based on a sunken valley further north in the Gwydir region of NSW, another favourite riding area.
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Northern end of the Bylong Valley. The grass in the paddocks is in good conditions, but the hills are showing signs of recent fires
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Start of the first hill climb

The copious quantities of water I'd consumed took their toll and I needed to stop in Bylong. I parked the bike in the shade outside the Bylong General Store. In the time before COVID, this was an excellent place to stop for a cup of tea and a tank of petrol, but no more. It's firmly closed. A great pity. There's an adjacent caravan park, facilities for a roadside stop and, apparently the locals like it. A woman giving her child a run in the playground told me the store had been bought by a mining company which wanted a 'too much' for the lease and was refusing to do much of the maintenance necessary to make the business viable.
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Outside the Bylong General Store

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A quality piece of agricultural equipment on display in the public space opposite the store

Biology and thirst both assuaged, I climbed aboard again for the final 51 kilometres to Rylstone. Happily, the second — and, in my view, better — of the hill passages required negotiation before I got there.
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A good road surface can never be a bad thing and it's good to see money being spent on it

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The surface used to be more like this

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I like the escarpments that can be seen in the great Dividing Range west of Sydney

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The approach to the hills at the southern end of the valley

Following a recommendation from Pterodactyl, I spent a comfortable night in the bike-friendly, Bowles-Inn Family Hotel in Rylstone. There was even a lock-up shed for the bike.
 
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22 January 2026

Day 3
Rylstone to Boorowa



Click on the image for a scrollable map

It was another crisp morning, and I set off to complete the Bylong Valley Way, planning to stop at the Wattle Flat General Store just south of Sofala for breakfast and fuel. I've ridden past it many a time and thought it time to check it out. After an enjoyable ride there and I had a reasonable coffee and a pleasant chat with the proprietor. There wasn't much to eat, though, so my vague dreams of breakfast remained just that.
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At the southern end of the Bylong Valley Way

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An early morning milestone

My next stop was Bathurst, a large town where I was able to pick up a couple of items I needed. By the time I left it was hot again.

Then I made my way along a new to me road to Perthville and thence to Trunkey Creek where, on another ride, I'd really wanted to stay. There was no accommodation. I'd enjoyed the road, though, and thought to ride it again in the opposite direction. It was better than I remembered; I had a lovely ride, stopping at the tiny town of Binda for lots of water, something to eat and a break in the shade.
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Just before Perthville

I quickly found a spot where I felt right at home at Binda.
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As I write this, I'm looking at pictures I took and wondering two things: why I took them, and where on earth I was when I did. The two above, taken near Perthville, took quite some time to work out. It couldn't be age, could it? If it keeps happening, though, I'm going to give up taking pictures as I'm blowed if I'll get off the bike and just to make a note of where I was and why I took a picture.

I'd also completely forgotten that somewhere near Trunkey Creek I hit a bump and felt lanyard cam part company with its lanyard. It landed in my lap. How lucky can you be? Turned out the cable tie that the lanyard clipped to had reached the end of a long and demanding life — presumably tormented by ultraviolet rays — and met one bump too many. The kind woman at Binda gave me a fancy new red one and lanyard cam was back in business. Well, kinda. It leads a hard life and occasionally refuses to function, most often when I really, really want it to.

So there aren't many pictures of the road between Trunkey Creek and Binda.
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Welcome shade at Binda

I bought fuel on the outskirts of Crookwell and, because I was making good time, decided to try a road to Yass so I could ride south to Jugiong and then ride the lovely road to Harden. Nah. About 20 kilometres in I came upon more dirt and so turned around. Overcome with good sense I decided it was too hot, rode to Boorowa and checked into an old favourite watering hole, the Boorowa Hotel.
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Sensible cattle finding what shelter they can under the few available trees

I drank lots more water and had not long made a cup of tea when I heard the throaty roar of a much-modified CB1100. AussieFlyer was in town.



 
23 January 2026

Day 4
Boorowa to Cooma



Click on the image for a scrollable map

The evening before, AussieFlyer and I had been in the bar discussing where we might ride with the aid of a convenient large-scale map on the wall. We mentioned Batemans Bay and, like the Spanish Inquisition in the Monty Python Sketch, a woman turned up to tell us all about Batemans Bay. Funny (to me) at the time.

Not as the tale unfolded, though. She and her partner were en route to see her sister at a place called Lake Cargelligo. I ran into her as we were leaving and wished her a pleasant journey. She told me they now couldn't go as the town was in lock down following a triple shooting the night before. As I write, police are still trying to find the alleged perpetrator who allegedly shot and killed his pregnant ex-partner, another man and then later her aunt. He also shot and wounded a 19-year old man. These events are no so common in this country and they leave a mark; particularly in a small town.
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Getting ready to roll at the Boorowa pub

I feel a great responsibility on these rides as it often falls to me to plan the ride for each day, although AussieFlyer once hosted me on a marvellous ride around his home territory. I decided we'd take the route we took on our first day last year — up through Frogmore to the Reg Hailstone Way and the Mid Western Highway (briefly) before trying a new road to get us back to Trunkey Creek. It was no hardship for me to ride this lovely road again, although part of it was slightly marred by one of those drivers who refused to pull over and let quicker vehicles pass. He was being hounded by another one of those drivers who think tailgating is fun, so maybe he was returning the favour by being frustrating.
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The road to Wyangala via Frogmore

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AussieFlyer on the Reg Hailstone Way. I don't know why I didn't take any more photos this day

We stopped at Tuena for coffee, or at least I thought that's what we were doing, but I picked the wrong place so we had lots of water instead. It was hot again and we were trying to stay ahead of a heatwave making its way east. We also wanted fuel, but a punter heading into the shop warned us that the tank hadn't been cleaned out for a generation or two, so we took a mere sip; enough to get us to Gunning where, after another pleasant ride, we stopped for fuel, coffee and water. It was warm again.

The final leg of the day took us past Canberra to Cooma. It's all good road, but strait and not very interesting. Being the Friday afternoon of a long weekend, there was plenty of traffic. As it was travelling at around the speed limit and the reward for being caught speeding in New South Wales on a long weekend is double demerit points, I allowed myself to enter that trance-like reflective state one can attain when riding in traffic out of town on a good road.

This was not for AussieFlyer at all. At some moment he took off past me and rapidly made his way to the front of the convoy of cars. What could I do but follow him? He was right, of course: even though we didn't go much faster, it was much more agreeable being in clear air. Happily, the policeman was packing up his speed camera as we rode by, although we wouldn't have troubled it.

As an aside, double demerit points is a big deal. Over a three-year period, if one is awarded more than 9 of them, it results in immediate loss of licence. Being caught in NSW exceeding the speed limit by more than 10 kph results in a fine of $345 and 3 points. On a double demerits weekend, that's two thirds of your points in one hit. If you pass through a school zone at more than 10 kph above the limit, it's $443 and 4 points, or nearly 90% of your points in one go.

When in Cooma, I've nearly always stayed at the Alpine Hotel. It's popular with, and friendly towards, motorcyclists and has a good, locked garage at the rear. I pulled up in the angle parking spaces out the front and stupidly tried to park the bike with the slope running from my left to my right. I got the bike settled, but wasn't quite sure it would stay put and so made an adjustment. All I achieved was to make matters worse and the next thing I knew I was in the gutter with the bike resting gently on my foot.

AussieFlyer helped me lift it up — it's bloody heavy and I couldn't have done it on my own — and we discovered the front brake lever was broken as was the rider's right footpeg, or step as the parts fiche has it. We got rooms, a beer for AussieFlyer and moved the bikes to the lock up which has a delightfully flat floor. We discovered the Cooma bike shop wouldn't open on Saturday, so a rescue mission would be required if we could locate a brake lever. The peg could be sorted, if necessary, by moving the passenger peg forward, although it would require some grinding to get it to sit level.

There being nothing else we could do that evening, we ate, had a drink or two and put the world to rights.




 
24 January 2026

Day 5
Cooma


The previous evening we identified a large dealer in Canberra and another in Bega that might be able to help. Both were an easy ride, although AussieFlyer was hoping for Bega because it was going to be hot and the road down Brown Mountain is a lot more fun than the flat plain to Canberra. As soon as they opened, I rang. The Canberra dealer opened first and had an aftermarket lever that would work on the CB1100, but they'd have to order the footpeg. The Bega shop had nothing. Of course.

So AussieFlyer set out to collect the lever. My job was to try to find somewhere that might help me grind the passenger peg down so it would fit. AussieFlyer had hardly left when he rang. He'd been talking to the bloke who ran the service station who it turned out once ran the Cooma bike shop. He told the Flyer that just around the corner from the bike shop he was heading for was Joe's Motorcycle Wreckers. He was pretty sure we'd get a footpeg there that would fit. My job was now to research what other Hondas the peg/step fitted then ring Joe's and see what they had.

I remember Joe's Motorcycles. In early 2024 AussieFlyer joined Ptrerodactyl and me for a ride. AussieFlyer's shock absorber reservoir developed a leak and he went home. But not before putting a curse on my rear tyre — see here and here. I suddenly needed a new one and Joe's Motorcycles in Canberra helped me out. I remember them being a large enterprise and very efficient.

So, having done some research to find out what other Hondas the step had been used on, I rang. I can't be sure, but I think I talked to the bloke who was running things when I was there in 2024. He was again doing a hundred things at once — issuing directions to a staff member while pretending to talk to me. Eventually he apologised and said he'd had to sort something out. We got down to tin tacks. He said he'd quite like the part number I'd offered to give him earlier and he'd said he wouldn't need. The good news for me was the part fits a few Hondas and when we went through the list he said, 'Yeah we've got one of them'. I said my mate would call to get it. He said no worries and was issuing orders even before hanging up.

AussieFlyer told me later that he'd arrived at Joe's and encountered what we assume was the same bloke. I'll call him Joe. He'd packed a young fellow off to get the peg and a few minutes later sent an older bloke to check up on him, saying something like, "He won't know what he's looking for." He was also engaged in a phone conversation with a bloke who wanted his valve clearances checked immediately. Joe was explaining patiently that such a job was not a high priority and they couldn't do it for a week or so. Sort of triage for motorcycle work. Anyway, they produced the step. Footpeg. From a CB300RR or something.

Obviously, having located a spare part, I'd done no grinding and had put my feet up and read a book. Might even have dozed a bit. I felt a bit guilty when AussieFlyer appeared looking hot, so I bought him a glass of cooling neck oil which he dispensed with even before I'd attached the new lever or lowered myself to the floor to replace the footpeg.

The summary is that we quickly put on the new parts and replaced the rear footpeg, although without the ball bearing it needs to click into place up and down. I took the bike for a ride around the block. All was well. Did look a bit unbalanced without the starboard RLET. AussieFlyer went for a shower and, frustrated by the loss of the bearing, I swept the floor. Would you believe I found it? Well, I did. Quite a long way away. So I pulled the peg off and put it back. Felt strangely pleased with myself.

Thanks AussieFlyer for being a great mate and undertaking a less than interesting ride to collect parts for me so we could keep riding. I really appreciate it.
 
Arg...another get-off! That makes both you and rdprdp01 to have get offs. As a side moderator, I realize I must exercise extreme caution now as they say these things happen in threes.

Very fun to read of the route, and I enjoyed the "Joe's Motorcycles" story. It's an interesting dynamic to do a buddy or group ride when you're the one planning the trip. They guy I've done my longest trips on has mainly planned them and since he likes all the technology on his bike, he leads. I think it takes a certain mentality to be the trip planner, but also to be the one who follows.

Question: when you do your multi-day trips, do you have in mind where you're going to stay each night or is it more play-it-by-ear?
 
A great tour and an even better story teller. We should have to pay a subscription to read the Cormanus Chronicles. I laughed so hard when I encountered BS Corner I manage to drop my laptop. Did not see that turn in the road coming. :)
 
Thread starter
Thanks for the kind words.

Hope the laptop's OK rdprdp01!

I found one other relatable sign on the way too ...

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pdedse, I usually have a planned end point, although I don't mind changing it if need be. I really like to follow, particularly if the road is a curvaceous and the person I'm with is a better rider — that's most people. So I'll slide back in the line and be ready to direct if a decision becomes necessary. AussieFlyer was trying navigation tech this trip and was able to put in a route and then lead if that's what we wanted.

Oh, and yes, they say things come on threes, so be very careful.
 
Thread starter
25 January 2026

Day 6
Cooma to Lakes Entrance



Click on the image for a scrollable map

My plan to spend the day riding over the Alpine Way through the Kosciuszko National Park was not a goer. Bushfires meant a lengthy detour would make it too long a day if we were to get AussieFlyer to a place from which he could easily get home the following day. We decided to make our way along a couple of scenic roads and get into the state of Victoria where we could meet up with noroomtomove and position AussieFlyer for a home run.
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Restored to working order and ready to go

The first leg involved a quick ride across the high plains to Brown Mountain Road, along which we would descend into Bega. It's a great ride.
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The high plains are less fun than the mountain …

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On the way down

We had a quick look at Bega, before stopping for water and coffee at Macdonalds — one of the things I wish America had been selfish about and kept all to itself.

There's a joke about spaniels that says when they look at you appealingly and indicate they want to go outside they're saying something like, "Let me out, I want to come in again." So it is riding with Cormanus: you ride down the hill so you can ride up again. Or the other way around; that's the beauty of it: it doesn't matter.

This time we were to take the Mt Darragh Road and, to save a little time, we'd take a shortcut past the pretty town of Candelo. All of which went well until the GPS took us on to Tantawangalo Mountain Road.

Let us pause here, just for a moment, so I can share, mostly for the Ferret's benefit, some wonderfully Australian names. I mean, how about Tantawangalo? Or Bulbugeroo Creek? Or Mookalimterria Creek? That was the one that stuck with me as I rode past. We didn't get there, and it's not particularly Australian, but near Tantawangalo, there's apparently a place called Wattle Happen.

We both thought we'd died and gone to heaven. It was a lovely road and we were sailing happily along until we met my old friend, the dirt. So, we stopped, turned around and rode back again which was not, if I'm honest, a hardship.

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Somewhere up Tantawangalo Mountain Road

We then took to the Myrtle Mountain Road, which was also enjoyable and took us to Wyndham where we joined the Mount Darragh Road. That was also good fun. I've a recollection we rode it in 2017 on the Tour Down Under. It may well have rained.
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Mt Darragh Road

At Bombala, where it was very hot, we stopped for fuel, water and coffee. I wanted to ride the Bonang Road, but, while I thought I'd heard the dirt patch in the middle had been sealed, I wasn't sure. Instead we took the Cann River Road, about which there was nothing to complain.

At Cann River we turned right and met a head wind which was warm but offered some respite from the heat of the high plain. A strange reversal. We stopped briefly in Orbost for water and chatted with a bloke on a Versys (I think) who was making a quick return to Queensland.

At Lakes Entrance, a very pretty seaside town, we found rooms at a motel and were soon joined by noroomtomove who dined with us.

We dined at the RSL Club, to which the motel was attached. The RSL is the Returned and Services League — a club ostensibly for service men and women and veterans, although they welcome anyone prepared to spend money in the bar and the slot machines. It's an organisation with strong views on a range of topics and loves to enter the fray to express them. We were talking about Australia Day, which was the following day, 26 January, and pondering the argument that rages every year about whether it should be celebrated on a different day. This is one of the topics on which the RSL has a strong view, and was, perhaps a foolhardy topic of conversation. I'll take the blame; I'm pretty sure I started it. Anyway, we were quickly joined by a member who "couldn't help hearing you're discussing Australia Day". He had a range of views so fascinating that noroomtomove made good his escape even before he'd finished sharing them.

Luckily we'd hatched a plan to meet up with him the next day.




26 January 2026

Day 7
Lakes Entrance to Cobains



Click on the image for a scrollable map

There's not much to say about the ride from Lakes Entrance to Cobains. Victoria has some spectacular riding roads, but many of the ones that aren't are tedious. The Princes Highway from Lakes Entrance to where we turned off at Bairnsdale is one of the latter. I'm not sure why, but it is. It was made worse by feeling my years and being a bit weary.

Mrs noroomtomove laid on tea, coffee and snacks and we had a most agreeable catch up, before leaping aboard our bikes — well, they lept.
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Three of them

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Somewhere in Cobains

The Gippsland Vehicle Collection is full of cars and some bikes that have been lent by people for display purposes. It's an eclectic collection and changes from time to time. Nearly all of the vehicles run and the donors are welcome to remove them from the display any time they want or need to use them. I've no idea why, but I didn't take a single photograph. Not even of the Aston Martin. I'll just have to go back. Did I mention it has amazing collection of model cars?

AussieFlyer had figured out an interesting route home and left us to take it. He had an appointment that he had to be back for, and Melbourne, where he lives, was promising to be 44ºC the following day which is no weather to ride in. A pity we lost a day's ride due to my ineptitude.

Meanwhile, noroomtomove took me to the Port of Sale where we had coffee, enjoyed the view and I remembered to take a photo.
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Then we went to inspect an old swing bridge downstream from the port.
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I can tell you it opened in 1883, is the oldest swing bridge in Australia and was designed by the architect John Grainger whose other claim to fame is that he was the father of the Australian pianist and composer, Percy Grainger. It is said to be remarkable for an exceptionally wide moveable span and the way it transfers deadweight to the end fixed spans. You can read this and more in the Wikipedia article.

Near Sale is a Royal Australian Air Force base and noroomtomove took me to see a display outside the front gate where I again forgot I had a camera. Wikipedia has let me down this time, but there is a picture of one of the planes on display in Google Maps. That will let enthusiasts have a bit of a look around on street view. Some technology is wonderful.

We then returned to noroomtomove's place where his wife and I watched him move a large pile of dirt with a borrowed tractor. We got to wave our arms enthusiastically and shout occasionally when we wanted to save him from crashing into something. We also got our steps up walking from pick up to dump and back to make sure everything went smoothly. We then had a lovely dinner and turned in. It was cool and dark and quiet and I had a most excellent sleep.




 
27 January 2026

Day 8
Cobains to Moruya Heads



Click on the image for a scrollable map

It was still cool early when noroomtomove and I got under way, but it promised to get hot later. It was hard to believe that, a little further west, it was going to get seriously hot. Melbourne recorded a temperature in the mid 40s Celsius. Yuk.

He generously gave me 10 litres of fuel to ensure I'd get to Newmerella where we planned to refuel.

We returned along the Bengwarden Road, taking the Bruthen road after Bairnsdale. It's prettier and a less busy ride. Bruthen sits at the bottom of the Omeo Valley highway about which too much has been written in others of these chronicles.
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noroomtomove cruises through Bruthen

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What you do when there aren't highway pegs

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We refuelled at Newmerella as planned and then headed up the Bonang Road to Bombala. It's a better, prettier ride than I remember and I'm happy to report that the 12 kms of dirt that once graced part of the road has been buried under bitumen.
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The Bonang Road

Eventually the road clears the forest and one is back on the high plains. By the time we got there it was hot again, but not murderously so.
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We arrived in Bombala around 1 pm and made straight for the coffee shop for water, coffee and an ice cream. Very welcome.

We then refuelled and said our farewells. noroomtomove headed down the Cann River Road on his way home and I decided to retrace the route AussieFlyer and I had taken two days before. Almost as soon as I left Bombala I started riding into a very cool north easterly sea breeze which took much of the discomfort from the day.
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There's lots of these wooden decked bridges in New South Wales. Occasionally they carry warnings to cyclists about gaps

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Somewhere on the way down the hill I decided to ride to the coastal town of Tathra and ride up the coast for as long as I could rather than taking the Pacific Highway. While it's prettier than the section we'd ridden in Victoria, it's still a main road and there's traffic. I stopped in Tathra for a stretch.
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Sometimes you get lucky. As I pointed and snapped, a wave hit the rocks in the distance and shot a generous plume into the air.

The coast road took me to Tilba Tilba where I rejoined the highway for the run to Moruya Heads where I was visiting friends. I was pleased to arrive.
 
28 January 2026

Day 9
Moruya Heads


I had a lovely day in Moruya Heads. Thanks for asking. Caught up with my friends, watched some of the Australian Open tennis, had a delightful swim in the Pacific Ocean and a rest. They invited me to stay another night which meant I had to exert myself to think about it.
 
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Either I got lost, missed somthing or goofed up...????

There are three CB110s parked in front of the garage, two black and one white.
As far as I know, the black ones were from 2010-2011, but the whithe one must be at least from 2013 or it's been repainted or imported.
I don't think there were any 2013 models in Australia???

Additionally, some RLETs are missing or unbalanced  :P
 
Thread starter
The CB1100 came to Australia in 2010 and 2011. It was offered in Red, White, Blue and Black. noroomtomove's white bike has been a frequent participant in the Cormanus Chronicles. Tezza, a member of the old forum basid in Queensland, also had a white CB1100.

As for the unbalanced RLETs, see Day 4 of the report.
 
Cormanus said:
The CB1100 came to Australia in 2010 and 2011. It was offered in Red, White, Blue and Black. noroomtomove's white bike has been a frequent participant in the Cormanus Chronicles. Tezza, a member of the old forum basid in Queensland, also had a white CB1100.

As for the unbalanced RLETs, see Day 4 of the report.

A very privilaged country, all four colours in two years!
I thought there was only a black CB1100 colour in Australia.
:biker:
 
Thread starter
I've remarked only recently that it seems very strange to me that a tiny market like Australia gets 4 colours and a huge market like North America gets 1.
 
Cormanus said:
I've remarked only recently that it seems very strange to me that a tiny market like Australia gets 4 colours and a huge market like North America gets 1.

The U.S. got the black standard '14 for just that year.  I thought for awhile of getting a blue tank to have 1 bike / 2 colors for my '17, but I think it was north of $1200 shipped (?), maybe more.

Very nice write up and good to see other parts of the world.  I'm sure I wouldn't enjoy long stretches of dirt / gravel on the CB1100, but every time I see a non-paved road sucuumb to the pavement, it makes that other part of me (namely, the DR650 part) a bit sad.  

:biker:
 
Thread starter
29 January 2026

Day 10
Moruya Heads to Windsor



Click on the image for a scrollable map

All the thinking about whether to stay was rather trumped by the early morning weather forecasts which had a significant heatwave gradually extending east in coming days and threatened storms for later in the week. I decided to move. Even in the 50 or so kilometres from Bathurst to Lithgow there would be a significant temperature difference. That determined my route.

I took the main road to Batemans Bay and then rode up on to the range via the Kings Highway — another lovely southern New South Wales hill climb — before stopping at a café in Tarago for coffee and water. I then headed to Goulburn where I bought fuel and more water. The ride's more interesting after Goulburn and becomes really pretty after Taralga as you approach and then ride through the Abercrombie River National Park. There's a particularly pretty section of road where you drop steeply to the floor of a valley, cross the Abercrombie River, and then immediately climb steeply up the other side.
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The photos above show the descent and then the bridge over the Abercrombie River. Not long after the right-hand corner in the distance, there's a sharp-ish U-turn and you're into the climb up the other side. There was road work going on, and the surface was a great deal better then when I was last there in 2024.

After that I rode through Duckmaloi (it's such a great word, I had to put it in) and thence to Hampton on a road I don't recall ever riding. The Hampton Halfway Hotel Motel provided me with coffee, water, a meat pie and a pleasant view while I ate and drank.

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The view from the Hampton Halfway Hotel

I then pressed on to South Bowenfels, where I stopped for fuel, before heading to Lithgow and along the wonderfully named Bells Line of Road to Windsor.
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On Bells Line of Road

Earlier I wrote about double demerit points. A speed monitoring device that's been used in Australia for many years now is the fixed speed camera. Authorities are very generous and give one plenty of warning, often with up to three signs in advance. Here's an example.
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Then, a little further on is the apparatus itself. Those two boxes on top of the poles.
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They've been there for years and they still catch people. There's so much conspicuous warning, it amazes me that people don't get the message and slow down.

I took a room in a not particularly good motel with a pleasant enough view of the Hawkesbury River, walked over the road and had a not terribly good pizza, before retiring and watching the women' s semi-finals at the Australian Open tennis.




 
30 January 2026

Day 11
Windsor to Mount Seaview



Click on the image for a scrollable map

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The view from my motel room: looking north over the Putty Road on which I was about to ride

Would you believe it was cool again? The mornings had been lovely and perfect for riding. My planned destination was Walcha so I could maybe manage a down and up on the best bit of the Oxley Highway, but that meant retracing my route north from Gloucester. But first the Putty Road, a pretty road linking north-western Sydney with the Hunter Valley to the north. The final stretch, known as 'the 10 mile', presumably because it has a better ring than 'the 16 kilometre', is a motorcyclist's delight. The other attraction of the Putty Road is a stop at the Grey Gum Café; not so much because of the excellence of its food and coffee, but because it's a motorcycling institution. My research told me it was now opening only a few days a week and suggested it would be closed when I got there. Sadly, so it was and I kept going to Singleton where I had a very pleasant coffee and a croissant.
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On the Putty Road

I got to ride the lovely road from Singleton to Dungog again. When I'd ridden south, there was a detour in place. The GPS was still telling me to take it, but a resurfaced road was clearly open, so I took it gently to avoid nasty little bits of bitumen sticking to the bike. There was what appeared to be a new bridge along with the new surface. It took me a while to remember that I'd often seen a historic bridge on that road, and didn't remember seeing it on either leg of this journey. As a result, I've wasted large chunks of the past 24 hours hunting in previous ride reports and on Google Maps for the missing bridge. I found it eventually. It's not quite where I thought it was and so there's a fair chance it's still there. I've written about it once before, but the photos are likely to have disappeared from the report, and, while it's a very minor curiosity, it remains mildly interesting. As I spent a day tracking it down to demonstrate to myself that I'm not completely mad, it's not going to pass without mention!
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Singleton to Dungog

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Another milestone

I passed through Dungog again. I don't know what I'll do. It used to be the place with the worst road surface I'd ridden on. Trying to hold the camera and ride was a nightmare. The streets (except for a stretch 100 metres either side of the Council Chambers) all looked like this …
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Now it looks like this …
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Much more fun to ride on, but what will a Grumpy Old Man complain about now?

My plan to buy fuel at the Stroud Road General Store was thwarted by its general air of abandonment. Luckily I had enough fuel remaining to let me push on and I got fuel, water and a comfort stop in Stratford.
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A break in Stratford

It was decision time. Would I press on up the road to Walcha or detour east to Nabiac to visit the National Motorcycle Museum? A quick check showed I could get about an hour at the museum. I decided to do it. As a bonus, It's a pleasant ride along The Bucketts Way to Krambach and Nabiac.

It's another eclectic collection of motorcycles. Most not in show room condition, but plenty of interesting bikes stored in three large sheds. It was hard to take good photos as most of the bikes were close together in lines with the front wheel out. But here's a few.
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Blue bikes seem to be appearing everywhere. They're promotions for an organisation called Beyond Blue which aims to help people with depression, hence the number plate RUOK? Beyond Blue has a link with annual motorcycle rides called the Black Dog Rides

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Bennelli 4-cylinder 250cc

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Kawasaki W1

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A local pharmacist made this model of a 1943, WW2 Jeep from more than 250,000 pieces of Lego. It weighs more than the CB1100 and will take the weight of an adult.

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I got coffee and water from a café in Nabiac and called the Wauchope Motel which had no rooms. I then called the Mount Seaview Resort, a little way up the Oxley Highway. There was a room, so I booked it and set off up the highway. The pretty Bago Road which gets one off the highway for the final run into Wauchope was greatly improved since last time I rode it. I bought fuel in Wauchope and then headed up the start of the Oxley Highway.

The Oxley Highway is one of better-known motorcycle roads in Australia. Some say the best. There's 44 kilometres of winding road that climbs through a eucalypt forest to the New England Plateau. It's a lovely ride and I was looking forward to completing it the following morning. One gets just a tiny taste of the pleasure to come on the approach to the Mount Seaview Resort.
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Long Flat at the eastern end of the Oxley Highway. The Great Dividing Range in the distance

When I got there, the place looked deserted. I wasn't the only guest, but close to it. I was certainly the only person in the restaurant that evening. There was no mobile phone reception; nor did the hotel Wi-Fi reach more than a few metres from Reception. I wasn't fussed about that, particularly as there was a large television in the room that would allow me to watch the men's semi-finals of the Australian Open tennis. Nah. The TV turned on fine, but there was no reception. I asked about it but nothing happened.

Dinner was a pretty ordinary hamburger with fries, but I got excellent service from the five backpackers staffing the place. I can't say much else positive; the resort was tired and had a slightly abandoned air.




 
31 January 2026

Day 12
Mount Seaview to Brisbane



Click on the image for a scrollable map

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The road out of the Mount Seaview Resort

I was up early next morning, but a bit reluctant to leave as there was mist on the mountains I had to ride up. I left a little after 07:30 and was immediately engaged with this wonderful road. By the time I got there a tree that had fallen across the road had been cleared and I reached Gingers Creek Café just after it opened. Like the Grey Gum International Café, it's one of those places it feels mandatory to stop at. That's because it often has fuel and provides a great place for a break on the way up the hill. Not supporting it increases the risk that it will close which would be a big loss for all travellers on that road.
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Early mist cleared quickly

I had breakfast and tried to persuade myself that I'd ride until I was tired, but the scent of home was in my nostrils and I set off up the rest of the hill. I prefer it slightly to the road to Gingers Creek. The corners a little more open, the speed limit a little higher and the riding feels just a little easier for the touring motorcyclist. Too soon, really, one bursts out of the trees and into cleared farming land on the plateau of the range and the road becomes less interesting.
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On the Oxley Highway plateau

I stopped in a shiny new fuel station on the outskirts of Armidale, refulled (and watered; it was hot) and got moving again — through Armidale, along the pleasant and fast road across the plateau, through Ebor onto the delightful and oft-written about road to Grafton. I was quickly able to get past some slower traffic and pretty much had the road to myself. Lovely.

I bought fuel, ate, had coffee and water at Grafton then decided to take a slightly longer route to stay off the highway for as long as possible. Up the Summerland Way — again oft travelled — through Casino and Kyogle and then to Murwillumbah along a lovely road. Stopped at road works on the early part of the road, I was joined by a bloke on a V-Strom. While we waited for a traffic light he told me it had north of 200,000 kilometres on the clock. He also told me a funny story about a resident who had spent lots of time putting water on the spot where the police liked to set up a speed trap so that it became difficult for them to park. I think he said they'd put down a concrete pad, but I didn't see it. Given his blithe disregard for speed limits, it was good he was well informed about areas of risk.
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V-Strom vanishes in the distance

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The pretty Border Ranges distinguishing New South Wales From Queensland. The peak is Mount Warning which is the first point on mainland Australia touched by the sun each morning

Murwillumbah was the end of the fun ride. The remaining 130 kilometres was main road or highway to be endured not really enjoyed. It was made worse by my music app misbehaving just after I left the final fuel stop. I couldn't be bothered stopping to fix it, so rode the final leg in relative silence.

Another great ride (aside from one little mishap). As always, great to see and ride with noroomtomove and AussieFlyer and sad to miss Pterodactyl. Just under 5,000 kilometres on the odometer and the worst of the heat wave avoided. What a great way to spend the final 12 days of January. The CB1100 is still lovely to ride — a new clutch pack, plus a fork rebuild and new steering head bearings made it even better than on the last long trip I took.

I should do it more often.
 
Wow, all I gotta say is... Wow!
What a journey. Thanks for sharing, sir!
 
Cormanus said:
I passed through Dungog again. I don't know what I'll do. It used to be the place with the worst road surface I'd ridden on. Trying to hold the camera and ride was a nightmare. The streets (except for a stretch 100 metres either side of the Council Chambers) all looked like this …
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....


That street looks just like a lot of the ones in Costa Rica...except there they don't bother to patch them.  : )

Cool looking oldie but goodie motorcycles and wondeful to take in more of the beautiful countryside you have in your corner of the world.
 
Thread starter
Thanks everyone for the kind words.
 
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