Switches...switched
- Thread starter the Ferret
- Start date
the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
so Tink, did you get it done?
Hi Ferret. I gave up trying to adapt to the LH switch layout on my 2014 CB1100 also and just ordered a 2013 switch assembly. I find it dangerous switching between my VFR800 and my CB1100 and was not able to safely go back and forth. Can you please answer a couple of questions?
1. Elipten posted complete instructions for swapping out switches, but never mentioned having to re-drill a hole like you did. Is this a step that he just forgot to mention?
2. Elipten states that you have to remove the LH grip to remove the switch; did you have to do this? Doesn't the switch separate in the middle so that it can be removed without having to remove the grip?
3. Did the 2014 screws work in the 2013 switch, or do I need to buy new screws also?
Thank you for your reply.
1. Elipten posted complete instructions for swapping out switches, but never mentioned having to re-drill a hole like you did. Is this a step that he just forgot to mention?
2. Elipten states that you have to remove the LH grip to remove the switch; did you have to do this? Doesn't the switch separate in the middle so that it can be removed without having to remove the grip?
3. Did the 2014 screws work in the 2013 switch, or do I need to buy new screws also?
Thank you for your reply.
the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
You have to get new screws they are different lengths from the 13
You have to remove the left grip ( it's easy with an air compressor but not hard without) because there is a solid plastic ring that must be removed. ( see Tinks post 15 in this thread..also his tute on removing the headlight connector)
Yes you have to drill a new hole for the locator pin. Measure carefully, the grip and the bar end length needs to be considered. If I were to do it again I would mark on the bar where the old switch was with a marker. Then use masking tape, where you need to drill, put the new switch on where you want it without screws and then squeeze it hard to mark the tape where you need to drill, but then again I'm not very handy and mis measured mine the first time.
You have to remove the left grip ( it's easy with an air compressor but not hard without) because there is a solid plastic ring that must be removed. ( see Tinks post 15 in this thread..also his tute on removing the headlight connector)
Yes you have to drill a new hole for the locator pin. Measure carefully, the grip and the bar end length needs to be considered. If I were to do it again I would mark on the bar where the old switch was with a marker. Then use masking tape, where you need to drill, put the new switch on where you want it without screws and then squeeze it hard to mark the tape where you need to drill, but then again I'm not very handy and mis measured mine the first time.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
Honda says to use isopropyl alcohol to loosen the glue. Worked for me to get a grip off. Says to use it when gluing the grip back on too. Thank goodness I did.
the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
No They are different. Sorry no pic. I started documenting but when things started going wrong with the hole I forgot the camera and concentrated on getting the hole in the right spot. Tonk may have documented it or elipten.
White Dog_imp
Been there
$86.64 on Partsfish.com plus shipping.lash_imp said:
Stichill
Road warrior
Excellent write-up and pics, ferret.
"Flash to pass" is used in many countries to indicate to the driver ahead that you are preparing to overtake. In the US its use is construed as "What is that guy's problem?" so it is usually avoided.
Flashing at intersections may be dicey...some may interpret the signal as "Go ahead and turn" vs. "Hold it I'm coming through."
"Flash to pass" is used in many countries to indicate to the driver ahead that you are preparing to overtake. In the US its use is construed as "What is that guy's problem?" so it is usually avoided.
Flashing at intersections may be dicey...some may interpret the signal as "Go ahead and turn" vs. "Hold it I'm coming through."
LongRanger_imp
Road warrior
+1Stichill_imp said:
4 Paws_imp
Road warrior
Consistent horn button location can be important! On the highway last summer a car decided to move into the lane I was already occupying, a quick horn blast alerted them to my presence and problem avoided. I realized that if I had been on my previous (BMW) bike I would have hit the left turn button instead of the horn, oops.
emptysea
Road warrior
Not to hijack this thread, but the flash to pass doesn't work with the highbeams already on and since I always ride with the highbeams on (except in traffic at night), it is of no real use to me. I may need to hook it to my garage door opener.
hb9400_imp
Been there
My 2014 CTX1300 Deluxe had the reversed horn/turn signal configuration. Hated it and don't miss dealing with it.
E11even_Hunnit
Been there
Hate to bump an old thread for a rather side topic, but has anyone retrofitted a garage door transmitter into handle bar switchery?
I have a memory of someone repurposing the passing switch for the garage remote.
This seemed to work http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=2779&pid=38238#pid38238
This seemed to work http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=2779&pid=38238#pid38238
E11even_Hunnit
Been there
Cormanus_imp said:
leepy:I thought there was no trolling on this forum?
Anyway- It's not all that complex:
[ul] [li]Find '14 STD switch connector wiring diagram for pinout
[/li][/ul] [ul] [li]Order a solder and take myself back in time 10 years ago to soldering bucket Honda Civic wiring harnesses
[/li][/ul] [ul] [li]Fit and route the tiny board/wiring inside headlight bucket through the switch harness looming
[/li][/ul] [ul] [li]Swap the f*cking stupid left handle bar switch(or both)
[/li][/ul] [ul] [li]Swap the useless factory H4 Bulb for a Sylvania as mentioned here(or an LED)
[/li][/ul]
And last, take a cool vid at night so you guys can hate :excited:
