Sometimes Ending Up Between Gears With Gear Indicator Line Blinking

2017CB1100EX-STL_imp

First service completed
Thread starter
Hi All,

I recently purchased a 2017EX and on several occasions have noticed the indicator flash that tells me I am not in gear. This usually happens when going back down into first and then mostly if I wait to long to shift when coming to a stop. It also happens when downshifing to other gears. It is embarrassing to be stopped at a light that turns green while trying to get it into first. Sometimes it looks like it is in, just does not feel right then the gear indicator blinks with that like. I'm thinking I am doing something wrong and just don't have a good feel for the bike. (I have only ridden a couple hundred miles, if that.) If I shift more aggressivley i.e. mash down on the shifter a bit it does not happen but I feel like I am abusing the machine when doing so since the rpms jump up a bit more when letting the clutch back out. Has anyone else experienced this or have input? It would be much appreciated.

Regards
 
The dash line indicates an improper shift. You don't have to mash the lever but shifts must be made "deliberately", and when down shifting it helps to be still slowly rolling when you down shift to first or to neutral. If you happen to wait to long to downshift into first, if you let out the clutch to just before engagement point and pull it back in, you can usually complete the shift to first. It is not just with this bike, but with all bikes. The nature of motorcycle transmissions. Motorcycles transmissions don't like lazy shifts.
 
Thread starter
The ferret_imp said:
The dash line indicates an improper shift. You don't have to mash the lever but shifts must be made "deliberately", and when down shifting it helps to be still slowly rolling when you down shift to first or to neutral. If you happen to wait to long to downshift into first, if you let out the clutch to just before engagement point and pull it back in, you can usually complete the shift to first. It is not just with this bike, but with all bikes. The nature of motorcycle transmissions. Motorcycles transmissions don't like lazy shifts.
I will try this. Thanks.
 
Motorcycle transmissions are not synchomesh. You have to do as Ferret says. The clunk you hear are gear dogs engaging other gears. In some situations, like you describe, the dogs don’t align so you do the clutch thing to get them too. Don’t baby it. Shift deliberately. And if it won’t go into gear, like described, Do not mash or stomp it. Damage can occur. Ferret know of what he speaks.

Someone else can describe it more detail, or Google is your friend. Good riding!!
 
I had this happening all the time on my G310r before the first oil change as well, if you’re still in the break in period maybe the CB’s transmission will be a bit easier to engage after the first oil change.
 
When I came back to bikes in 1992 it was on a Honda Hawk NT650. It had an amazingly smooth and positive transmission and was such a joy to ride.
When I bought the 1100 it also has an amazingly smooth and positive transmission, but as ferret said, you need to be smooth and deliberate with your shifts - not abusive - just deliberate and smoothly co-ordinated with the clutch.
My "old" Bonneville also has a very positive transmission and clicks through the gears in a very satisfying way too.
However, there aren't syncro gearboxes and you need to do your part.
It will all come together with experience.
 
The ferret_imp said:
The dash line indicates an improper shift. You don't have to mash the lever but shifts must be made "deliberately", and when down shifting it helps to be still slowly rolling when you down shift to first or to neutral. If you happen to wait to long to downshift into first, if you let out the clutch to just before engagement point and pull it back in, you can usually complete the shift to first. It is not just with this bike, but with all bikes. The nature of motorcycle transmissions. Motorcycles transmissions don't like lazy shifts.
Hello, I share the same issue and have 6 Motorcycles, none but the Honda CB1100RS does that. Not even a 1979 Triumph Bonneville does that! No, it's not the nature of gearbox and motorcycles.

On most motorcycles you can pull the clutch and shift one by one through the whole set of gears without releasing the clutch. Yes, finding neutral is very different on older or agricultural gearboxes.

These CB1100 models have an issue, not saying all, but mine has and as I can see here many others, too.

How to handle it was correctly described, though, but that's not acceptable for a new high quality and expense bike from Japan. Maybe from India.

Thank you.
Best regards,
 
In such situations sometimes changing the position of the shifter slightly helps, either up or down, to a position where shifting is easier for the rider, matching the natural angle of the rider's foot.
 
I'll agree that I have had many many bikes- both street and dirt, as well as a few quads- and none, regardless of their age (including several from the 70's, including a '76 CB750) and again -none did this like the CB1100 does.

It *is* an issue, and probably could be addressed by redesign of some sort of part by Honda.

Not the end of the world, but I certainly pay attention to specifically wack wack wack well before an intersection or stop to make sure I am in first before anywhere near close to not rolling.
 
In my experience all other motorcycles sometimes have the same problem of not being entirely in gear BUT unlike the Honda the gear indicator, if they have one, does not flash or show that there was a slight miss shift. In most cases even when the cb1100 gear indicator flashes you are still in gear and can drive. In my opinion the CB1100 transmission is getting blamed for being problematic simply because it draws attention to an issue (by flashing the indicator) for which other manufacturers don't even notify you.
 
Here's a method that works on just about any motorcycle for a clean positive shift: pre-load the shift lever. As you are going up thru the gears from a stop, place your toe under the shift lever and keep a little bit of pressure on the lever. When you reach your shift point, de-clutch and complete the shift motion. This eliminates that slight delay of moving your toe under the shift lever, then moving it up to contact the shift lever, then completing the shift.

I don't find the need for pre-loading quite so much on down-shifting. Sometimes I think about converting my bikes to a "race pattern" i.e. 1 UP for 1st, and DOWN for the rest.
 
PowerDubs_imp said:
I’ve never noticed my bike to ever miss an upshift. All down!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
becouse dogs are closer to engage on the next up-shift, and closer to "dog-to-dog" on the downshift (they need to engage on different flanks).

Once engagement starts, the tapper on the dog's flank will make full engagement as soon as there is any power driving the gears.

(It's easier when seen than explained here...) :rolleyes:
 
jtopiso_imp said:
PowerDubs_imp said:
I’ve never noticed my bike to ever miss an upshift. All down!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
becouse dogs are closer to engage on the next up-shift, and closer to "dog-to-dog" on the downshift (they need to engage on different flanks).

Once engagement starts, the tapper on the dog's flank will make full engagement as soon as there is any power driving the gears.

(It's easier when seen than explained here...) :rolleyes:

You are the 2nd person to tell me that today-

I just received an email from the breeder that the parents are in heat and hopefully we should expect our new puppy around the end of July. :)
 
PowerDubs_imp said:
jtopiso_imp said:
PowerDubs_imp said:
I’ve never noticed my bike to ever miss an upshift. All down!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
becouse dogs are closer to engage on the next up-shift, and closer to "dog-to-dog" on the downshift (they need to engage on different flanks).

Once engagement starts, the tapper on the dog's flank will make full engagement as soon as there is any power driving the gears.

(It's easier when seen than explained here...) :rolleyes:

You are the 2nd person to tell me that today-

I just received an email from the breeder that the parents are in heat and hopefully we should expect our new puppy around the end of July. :)

You are the 2nd person to tell me that today-

I just received an email from the breeder that the parents are in heat and hopefully we should expect our new puppy around the end of July. :) I like that "story"
 
Although this thread has gone to the dogs, I'll add my 2 cents:

Of the ~3 times I missed a shift, in >7,700 miles. I knew when I did it that it was a lazy shift and would not fault the Honda transmission.
 
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Although this thread has gone to the dogs, I'll add my 2 cents:

Of the ~3 times I missed a shift, in >7,700 miles. I knew when I did it that it was a lazy shift and would not fault the Honda transmission.
+1 :thumbsup: (37,000 miles for me)
 
3rdbike_imp said:
Here's a method that works on just about any motorcycle for a clean positive shift: pre-load the shift lever. As you are going up thru the gears from a stop, place your toe under the shift lever and keep a little bit of pressure on the lever. When you reach your shift point, de-clutch and complete the shift motion. This eliminates that slight delay of moving your toe under the shift lever, then moving it up to contact the shift lever, then completing the shift.

I don't find the need for pre-loading quite so much on down-shifting. Sometimes I think about converting my bikes to a "race pattern" i.e. 1 UP for 1st, and DOWN for the rest.
i hold this not for a good ideaa bcos in this moment you give already side pressure to this thin shift fork

Google Search:
 
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Although this thread has gone to the dogs, I'll add my 2 cents:

Of the ~3 times I missed a shift, in >7,700 miles. I knew when I did it that it was a lazy shift and would not fault the Honda transmission.
+2
 
FWIW my 2013 didn't have a gear indicator, and I had no problem with missed shifts, but I did notice the gearbox got smoother after the 600 mile service, when I put in Honda full synthetic oil. didn't expect anything, but the improvement was noticeable.
 
Back
Top