So yeah, THAT happened.

Whoops

Been there
Thread starter
The FJR1300 got new shoes (Dunlop Road Smart 3's) last Friday as the old Bridgestone's were so thin on the rear, I could deform the center tread with my thumb. I finished up doing the semiannual maintenance and since we had a nice 47 degree day, I thought I would take it out and wear off the casting slime as I have done with many new tires in the past.

Well, I got to the first corner on my street and was going just a little faster than walking speed under no throttle and... WHOOSH. Rear tire slid out and for the first time since I started riding street bikes at 18, I went down.

It was so incredibly fast that I don't even remember the bike falling. One second I was barely even leaned while turning, a split second later I was sliding on asphalt. There seemed like no transition at all. I only slid about ten feet, but that's about ten feet more than I wanted to slide. Thankfully I had T-Rex bars which took the entirety of the fall and slide. They left a nice radius gouge in the road as the bike and I came to a stop.

Looks like I am going to need new highway pegs, perhaps a puck and luggage bar slider as well. All in all the bike is no worse for the wear.
ce031ddd8ff4fee570e7ec0ae4c968a8.jpg


The part I am really upset about is my new jacket that I scored an incredible close-out deal on for $550. The leather tore in two spots and it looks like the fabric has a hole in it now that has gone through the GoreTex layers inside. I have no idea if it can be repaired to be waterproof again.

42e2e52699fa278e78b4f7f6961c3ad3.jpg


When I was sliding, I put my left hand down and my hand slid several feet. I was wearing my new Warm & Safe heated gloves and I can't even tell other than the tiniest nick in the ulnar pad on the outside of the wrist. My Forma short adventure boots also held up very well. Just a little scuff on the leather on the outside of the left boot and a bit of wear on the ankle pad. My Aerostich AD-1's just look dirty. No abrasions at all.

I had actually commented to the shop tech while he was mounting my tires that it seemed like there was a lot of release agent on them. He agreed and said it was more than he has seen for a while and to be really careful. I agreed and even toyed with the idea of running some sand paper over the tires to try and scuff it off a bit. Ego won in the end though as I have done this many times before without incident, until now. My wife was just glad the gear did what it was designed to do. She tried to get me to put the bike away, but like they say, when you fall off a horse...

Summary: 47 degrees, a small incident, 38 extremely ginger miles. :thumbsup:
 
Forma short ADV boots are great.

Glad the story came out well.

Did this incident happen in a shady part of the road? (not sure if that is possible with low foliage)
 
Ouch! Sorry to hear but glad you're ok. Seems like there should be a spray-on product that would "wash-off" or neutralize whatever is used to protect tires.
 
Well, that's a bummer. Glad you are not hurt, and the bike was not badly damaged.

I didn't think Dunlop used a mold release agent on their tires anymore?
 
Exact same thing happened to me before up to & including the jacket but luckily I was on on my namesake WR250X.
 
Whoops!. Glad you’re not hurt.
 
Wow, that’s scary! Sorry to hear about it but glad you’re ok and the bike only suffered superficial damage.

We have a shop in Newport Beach that repairs crash damaged leathers and does a good job. Maybe you could find a place near you that does the same.
 
Wow, sh*t happens without any warning!
Glad to hear you are still in one piece, recover to A1 shape fast!!

...had Dunlop Rd smart 3 on my CB and was very happy with it.
 
Thread starter
GoldOxide_imp said:
Forma short ADV boots are great.

Glad the story came out well.

Did this incident happen in a shady part of the road? (not sure if that is possible with low foliage)
It's a full sun area, no leaves, gravel or dirt that I could see. It was too warm for ice.

The ferret_imp said:
Well, that's a bummer. Glad you are not hurt, and the bike was not badly damaged.

I didn't think Dunlop used a mold release agent on their tires anymore?
It rained later in the evening when I went back over to look at the gouge in the asphalt. I did notice that water was beading in one area just before I went down. The street is right in front of a school and cars idle in the middle of the road waiting to pickup their younglings. I wonder if somebody leaked oil (even though I couldn't see it when it was dry) and that was enough to cause the slip.

Also, the tires definitely had a varnish appearance. You can still see it a bit on the outside of this picture. I presumed it was release agent, but it isn't just rubber as I can scrape it off a bit.
0764518b5eb465577ec08c811bc92e9d.jpg


The only other thing I can think of that could have contributed to it (other than me not being careful enough) was that the shop guy sprayed a lot of lube on the bead. Otherwise, the only thing injured was my pride. Maybe the wallet a bit to fix a few bits. It might be a while before I dare to ride as briskly as I did before though.
 
One time I experienced something similar, but managed to aggressively muscle the bike upright.

The right turn lane was dry and "glossed" up a bit in the tire path - probably from cages accelerating hard to merge with adjacent oncoming traffic. My rear tire, which also had a slight waxy ooze look at the edges lost traction (my then V-twin reached maximum torque at only 3000 RPM, so it go weird real fast).

I did turn around and examined to spot and found no oil patch, other fluids, sand nor pebbles. So I surmised it must have been the tire waxy characteristic and too much torque applied upon acceleration.
 
I'm guessing oil or anti-freeze and water combined to make a slick spot that you just happened to hit. I haven't found new tires to be particularly slick in recent years and typically just ride off at a pretty much normal pace and increase lean angles and speed over the next 50 miles or so, then it's business as usual. I go thru 3-4 sets of tires a year on my 2 bikes. I usually use Michelins (1st choice) or Pirellis (2nd choice) though, but in recent years have tried Dunlops (they were just OK), Bridgestones (my least favorite) Shinkos (they were ok and cheap lol), and Metzlers (they weren't bad) too. None were "bad" tires, but some were definitely better than others IMO.,

From Dunlop:
Thank you for taking the time to contact us with your Dunlop motorcycle tire questions. Dunlop Motorcycle Tire does NOT use a "mold releasing agent" during the production of our tires. When new tires are fitted, they should not be subjected to maximum power, abrupt lean-over or hard cornering until a reasonable run-in distance of approximately 100 miles has been covered. This will permit the rider to become accustomed to the feel of the new tires or tire combination, find the edge, and achieve optimum road grip for a range of speeds, acceleration and handling use.
Be sure to check and adjust inflation pressure to recommended levels after the tire cools for at least three (3) hours following run-in. Remember, new tires will have a very different contact patch and lean-over edge. New tires, mixing a new tire with a used tire, and mixing tread pattern
combinations require careful ride evaluations.
 
Thread starter
The ferret_imp said:
I'm guessing oil or anti-freeze and water combined to make a slick spot that you just happened to hit. I haven't found new tires to be particularly slick in recent years and typically just ride off at a pretty much normal pace and increase lean angles and speed over the next 50 miles or so, then it's business as usual. I go thru 3-4 sets of tires a year on my 2 bikes. I usually use Michelins (1st choice) or Pirellis (2nd choice) though, but in recent years have tried Dunlops (they were just OK), Bridgestones (my least favorite) Shinkos (they were ok and cheap lol), and Metzlers (they weren't bad) too. None were "bad" tires, but some were definitely better than others IMO.,

From Dunlop:
Thank you for taking the time to contact us with your Dunlop motorcycle tire questions. Dunlop Motorcycle Tire does NOT use a "mold releasing agent" during the production of our tires. When new tires are fitted, they should not be subjected to maximum power, abrupt lean-over or hard cornering until a reasonable run-in distance of approximately 100 miles has been covered. This will permit the rider to become accustomed to the feel of the new tires or tire combination, find the edge, and achieve optimum road grip for a range of speeds, acceleration and handling use.
Be sure to check and adjust inflation pressure to recommended levels after the tire cools for at least three (3) hours following run-in. Remember, new tires will have a very different contact patch and lean-over edge. New tires, mixing a new tire with a used tire, and mixing tread pattern
combinations require careful ride evaluations.
That's good to know. I still think I might go out and wipe the tread down with some alcohol and try and get the "shiny" off before I go out again. It will probably just be a feel-good solution, but I can't imagine it would hurt anything.

I think I might give Michelins a try for the next set. The bummer there is they would run about $500 for two tires where as I got the Dunlops for half that on a Black Friday deal. The Bridgestones that came off only got me 6500 miles. The rear was OK, but the front cupped like crazy. I check pressure before every ride and followed the advice of the folks over on the FJR forums about running the front at 38-40 instead of the 36 suggested by Yamaha. Additionally I ride on the standard or firm suspension settings with the rear set to "2 up" since I am a pretty big guy. I had hoped to get closer to 8k miles out of a set, but oh well.
 
If they were the original oem Stones, I only got 6500 miles out of mine too on my new 2018 FJR, and I thought they were poor handling tires. Im told aftermarket Stones are better than oem manufactured ones. Ive just never cared for Bridgestones. The mechanics at my shop calls them Bridge-rocks lol.

1/2 price is good, as long as you are happy with the tires.
 
Certainly not the only one whoops, seen a video of a rider falling on new tires between the workshop and the gate, 12 meters at the most;

myself slipped with the hornet at very slow speed on a compacted and wet clay slick on the road, less that half a second, the front wheel slipped sideways on a small ridge on a track and it was all over, minimal damage and the first time in 50 years as well.
This is a similar situation;



No reason for it to happen but situations like this are a regular point of concern with new tires, like your idea of cleaning them, treat new tires as if riding on grass, thanks for sharing and second m in sc's advice!
 
max_imp said:
Certainly not the only one whoops, seen a video of a rider falling on new tires between the workshop and the gate, 12 meters at the most;

myself slipped with the hornet at very slow speed on a compacted and wet clay slick on the road, less that half a second, the front wheel slipped sideways on a small ridge on a track and it was all over, minimal damage and the first time in 50 years as well.
This is a similar situation;



No reason for it to happen but situations like this are a regular point of concern with new tires, like your idea of cleaning them, treat new tires as if riding on grass, thanks for sharing and second m in sc's advice!
(yikes) A little too much tire protectant by the garage?
 
Thread starter
The ferret_imp said:
If they were the original oem Stones, I only got 6500 miles out of mine too on my new 2018 FJR, and I thought they were poor handling tires. Im told aftermarket Stones are better than oem manufactured ones. Ive just never cared for Bridgestones. The mechanics at my shop calls them Bridge-rocks lol.

1/2 price is good, as long as you are happy with the tires.
Time will tell. I have liked Dunlops in the past and the Road Smart III's are pretty well reviewed, even if they aren't the current release. Their manufacture date is 6/23, so they are decently fresh at least.

m in sc_imp said:
wipe em down with a sheet of 150 grit sandpaper. im serious. alcohol won't do anything, If you want the release agent gone and not up to rubbing it w sandpaper, , use laquer thinner on a rag (NOT ACETONE) and it will help and not attack the rubber.
Yep. Mineral spirits did nothing. I did try a sanding block and it gummed up pretty fast and also didn't seem to do much. I don't have any thinner, so I think I will just follow Ferrets advice and just gently work my way into the edges of the tire.

misterprofessionality_imp said:
Boy howdy you got off easy if that ends up being the only time you ever meet the pavement in your long career. Congratulations Whoops! You earned your name
LOL. ZING!!
 
The ferret_imp said:
I'm guessing oil or anti-freeze and water combined to make a slick spot that you just happened to hit. I haven't found new tires to be particularly slick in recent years and typically just ride off at a pretty much normal pace and increase lean angles and speed over the next 50 miles or so, then it's business as usual. I go thru 3-4 sets of tires a year on my 2 bikes. I usually use Michelins (1st choice) or Pirellis (2nd choice) though, but in recent years have tried Dunlops (they were just OK), Bridgestones (my least favorite) Shinkos (they were ok and cheap lol), and Metzlers (they weren't bad) too. None were "bad" tires, but some were definitely better than others IMO.,

From Dunlop:
Thank you for taking the time to contact us with your Dunlop motorcycle tire questions. Dunlop Motorcycle Tire does NOT use a "mold releasing agent" during the production of our tires. When new tires are fitted, they should not be subjected to maximum power, abrupt lean-over or hard cornering until a reasonable run-in distance of approximately 100 miles has been covered. This will permit the rider to become accustomed to the feel of the new tires or tire combination, find the edge, and achieve optimum road grip for a range of speeds, acceleration and handling use.
Be sure to check and adjust inflation pressure to recommended levels after the tire cools for at least three (3) hours following run-in. Remember, new tires will have a very different contact patch and lean-over edge. New tires, mixing a new tire with a used tire, and mixing tread pattern
combinations require careful ride evaluations.
^^agreed 101%^^
 
I found this to be helpful - it's a tire cleaner spray, not a dressing.

I find it handy for cleaning the sidewalls when they get that brownish look to them, but mainly for removing grease and chain wax splatter from my rear tires after lubing them. I also give them a wipedown with this stuff when they're new and have that slick feeling.
 
max_imp said:
Certainly not the only one whoops, seen a video of a rider falling on new tires between the workshop and the gate, 12 meters at the most;

myself slipped with the hornet at very slow speed on a compacted and wet clay slick on the road, less that half a second, the front wheel slipped sideways on a small ridge on a track and it was all over, minimal damage and the first time in 50 years as well.
This is a similar situation;



No reason for it to happen but situations like this are a regular point of concern with new tires, like your idea of cleaning them, treat new tires as if riding on grass, thanks for sharing and second m in sc's advice!
I laid my first sportbike down in the dealer parking lot after a tire change, years ago. Brand new parking lot asphalt, runoff from them washing bikes, plus I had no idea how slick new tires could really be. I was down the moment I started to turn out of the service area.
 
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