scottoiler v-system

[12cb96vfr_imp]

Hey guys, im planning on adding a scottoiler to the cb; ill post up pics as I install it.

I put one on my VFR and it's hands-down the best mod I've ever done.

Only thing that bothers me is trying to find a suitable vacuum line on the CB. It was cake on the carb of the Viffer but I'm thinking it may be a pain on the EFI system on this bike. We'll see!!

 

[Phat Ham_imp]

Have you thought of using the electric one instead of the vacuum one?

 

[12cb96vfr_imp]

Yeah, I just didn't wanna spend double for it, but I think that's what I'm gonna do

 

[Flynbulldog_imp]

interesting, I've been riding motorcycles for over 40 years and I don't EVER oil my chains.
I just clean them about once a month with WD40.

In-fact when I install a new chain or buy a new bike I clean all the factory lube off before I ride...

A constant oiler seems a bit excessive and unnecessary to me, but whatever makes you happy is good. :blush:

 

[AZrider_imp]

For Flynbulldog: Would you share how long a chain lasts for you and about how many miles you ride a year? I suspect that the monthly WD40 does more than clean in that it lubes also. Many believe that WD40 harms the O-rings. Obviously, it hasn't on your bikes. You have a long track record for your method. It's obviously working if you get decent mileage from your chains.

 

[Joola_imp]

I used to cycle competitively (bicycles, not motos) and standard WD40 was a big no-no for chain lube in that world. It works great at first but tends to dry up quickly and will attract more road gunk than traditional lubricants. I'm only assuming this translates from bicycle chains to motorcycle chains.

 

[12cb96vfr_imp]

Yeah that is the first time I've heard not to lube a chain, I'm interested as well?

 

[Flynbulldog_imp]

old bikes with standard chains need periodic oiling. Any o-ring chain made within the last 15 years has been manufactured with lube inside the o-ring or x-ring and like modern sealed bearings does not need lube. They need to be kept clean and free of gunk that causes wear. Also if you are in an area with hi humidity oiling the chain is a must to prevent rust.

Almost all manufacturers recommend periodic cleaning and chain lube and there is most certainly a debate about using WD40 and how it affects the o-rings.

I know many many long time riders who do just what I do and just keep their chains clean. I have had zero problems and my chains typically last about 20,000 miles.

I'm happy with the way I do it but I do not recommend it to anyone else. You guys need to do what works best for you.

This is from RK chains, You can see that they are fine with WD40 and lube is to prevent rust, I live in a very dry climate and use plated gold chains that do not rust.

Doing routine maintenance on any chain is a crucial step to getting the maximum wearlife out of your chain. You should clean and check its adjustment every 400 miles (sooner if the chain gets excessively dirty). Use formulated O-ring chain cleaner or other similar product to keep dirt from building up around link plates and rollers. Don’t use a wire brush or pressure washer. If your chain comes in contact with water, be sure to use a moisture displacement (like WD40). Lubing an O-Ring chain is vital for maximum wearlife. All RK O-Ring chains are injected at the factory with a lifetime supply of internal lubricant. The purpose of an O-Ring lube is to keep the chain from rusting and the O-rings from drying out. Use a lubricant specifically designed for O-Ring Chains.

 

[rhtizzy_imp]

Yeah, I just didn't wanna spend double for it, but I think that's what I'm gonna do

Hi there, I have a scottoiler v-system from my previous bike and am still looking for a good place to mount and connect. Any foto's of either would be great! Cheers, Rick

 

[rboe]

I can see the cost benefit of an oiler on the old pre-o-ring chains but not with o-ring chains used today. Other than rust control; and I never had a problem with rust (in Minnesota we lubed so much it could never happen and the old chains never lasted long enough to rust any way and in AZ it's so darn dry most of the time that rust is not a problem even during the monsoon season; what with little lube I use keeping it at bay).

Since I got back into motorcycles I've noticed a lot of things have changed and I've only put "high" miles on two bikes and they have shafts so my experience with the new chains is very limited and pretty much from conversations with riding buddies that go through them. Talking with them and reading on the forums, cleaning seems to be more critical than lubing. Even back in the day there was some discussion on chain lube attracting dirt and causing more wear than no lube.

So I'm keen on hearing your motivation for the scottoiler. I figure I'm not too old to learn a thing or two.

Remembering it is another problem.

 

[Deanohh_imp]

From another thread:
the factory lube is between the solid pins and the hollow pins.... This is sealed in by the o rings. There is also factory lube between the rollers and the outside of the hollow pins....this is not sealed in by anything and needs relube when you lube the chain. Also the side plates to prevent rust. Harsh solvents like brake cleaner wash lube out from under the rollers where it is hard to get lube back in because side play of the roller is small....and washes lube off the orings and can wash lube out from between the o ring and side plates which is almost impossible to get lube back in between there cause the rings flatten out....then the orings wear against the side plates. So lube the side plates for rust, the area between where the orings are, the rollers and at the edges of the rollers so that some of it can get somewhat under the rollers.

 

[flynrider]

From another thread:
the factory lube is between the solid pins and the hollow pins.... This is sealed in by the o rings. There is also factory lube between the rollers and the outside of the hollow pins....this is not sealed in by anything and needs relube when you lube the chain. Also the side plates to prevent rust. Harsh solvents like brake cleaner wash lube out from under the rollers where it is hard to get lube back in because side play of the roller is small....and washes lube off the orings and can wash lube out from between the o ring and side plates which is almost impossible to get lube back in between there cause the rings flatten out....then the orings wear against the side plates. So lube the side plates for rust, the area between where the orings are, the rollers and at the edges of the rollers so that some of it can get somewhat under the rollers.

That's correct. O-rings did not eliminate the need to lube a chain. They just sealed in lube where it is harder to get to. The bonus is that you don't have to drench the chain with a heavy, sticky lube anymore (which also helps keep it clean).

I shoot a bit of silicone/teflon lube (which doesn't attract much dirt) every few weeks and it works for me. My last 3 o-ring chains made it to the mid 20K mi. range. Optimally, you want to direct the lube onto the right and left edge of the rollers for proper coverage of the spots that don't have sealed lubrication.

 

[CIP57_imp]

Anytime metal meets metal you need lubrication. Yes these chains are lubed but the sprockets that they run on are not, therefore the chain needs lubrication. I do agree some of these chain lubes attract dirt and can do more harm than good if not maintained properly. I use DuPont Teflon Chain Saver which does not attract dirt. I have not cleaned my chain and I'm at 2700 miles. I set trip B for chain maintenance and lube every 400-500 miles, you can hear how quiet the chain gets after lube which means less wear.

 

[rboe]

Ah! I use the same DuPont lube on my dirt bike (I succumbed to the dark side and bought chain lube for the two CB's) on the advice from riders over on Thumper Talk. About 2500 hard earned miles on the 650L and the chain is just fine so way too early to have an opinion one way or the other. I've had to dial back my dirt riding so I bet the chain will out live me now, but dust embedded in lube makes for a nice abrasive.

I tell friends about the sprockets needing lube at the sprocket chain interface so I suffered a major brain fart on this topic here. Thanks for the reminder. :worship:

 

[AzBob_imp]

Anytime metal meets metal you need lubrication. Yes these chains are lubed but the sprockets that they run on are not, therefore the chain needs lubrication. I do agree some of these chain lubes attract dirt and can do more harm than good if not maintained properly. I use DuPont Teflon Chain Saver which does not attract dirt. I have not cleaned my chain and I'm at 2700 miles. I set trip B for chain maintenance and lube every 400-500 miles, you can hear how quiet the chain gets after lube which means less wear.

Agree. Was going to mention this myself. I hope everyone is also checking their sprockets when they clean/lube their chains.

I actually use Honda's chain lube. It doesn't fling, and it doesn't attract much dirt (any kind of lubricant is going to attract some amount of dirt).

 

[Aussie_imp]

I use Gear oil as per the manual. Yeah I'm boring but I've experimented with everything, including wd40 and find gear oil is cheap and effective. At the end of the day as long as you're doing something it's probably better than doing nothing. Nothing wrong with a scottoiler either!