Rust/corrosion - 2015 EX model

[N4RN_imp]

Hi,

I'm looking for some valuable information/experience on how to avoid corrossion.

The bike is a CB1100EX from 2015. Past owners lived close to Normandy beaches. I just have very few areas where I see some corrosion. Otherwise, everything else is "nickel-chrome" like a french would say.

As you seen in the picture, most of the corrosion starts at welded joints. I plan to use ACF50 after reading some of the posts here and there.

How can i safely remove the existing rust ?
Does this mean a poor weld quality from Honda ?

Thanks,
N4R

Envoyé de mon SM-G930F en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[jtopiso_imp]

Hi,

I'm looking for some valuable information/experience on how to avoid corrossion.

The bike is a CB1100EX from 2015. Past owners lived close to Normandy beaches. I just have very few areas where I see some corrosion. Otherwise, everything else is "nickel-chrome" like a french would say.

As you seen in the picture, most of the corrosion starts at welded joints. I plan to use ACF50 after reading some of the posts here and there.

How can i safely remove the existing rust ?
Does this mean a poor weld quality from Honda ?

Thanks,
N4R

Envoyé de mon SM-G930F en utilisant Tapatalk

I don't think the cause is a bad quality weld. From the pictures, it looks like galvanic corrosion to me.
When you have two dissimilar metals, if there is no electrical isolation between them, one will rust while the other is "protected".

example: File:Stainless-steel-mild-steel.jpg - Wikipedia
(from Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia )

Can't help on how to remove the rust. Sorry.

On the fuel cap/tank interface, I guess you can try to isolate one part from the other. When you have stainless, high nickel alloy, or chrome against any other metal... the other metal very likely going to rust.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

You might be able to slow it down by starving the surface from the environment. Transparent silicone grease in hard to reach spots? Maybe a squirt of ACF-50 in tight seams to neutralize and protect pre-existing rust areas? There may be other cost-effective options.

 

[peterbaron]

Salty climate causing galvanic corrosion.

For my every winter storage, I use my penetrating fluid* on some chrome/welded elements and let it sit through, never clean it...just wait for normal wash.
If corrosion is present on a painted surface, without crack, I would apply my penetrating fluid*, let it sit for few minutes and then polish to dry.
To do the job right, you have to remove the gas cap prior detailed cleaning, then gently apply Vaseline/white petroleum jelly U.S.P to the part contact points.
When elements are clean and free form dirt & corrosion, waxing would be beneficial.

*Penetrating fluid I use is similar to WD40

 

[Houtman_imp]

You could use Waxoil , easy to squirt into tight places and it protects very well for a long time , not like some oily products which evaporate quickly.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I use to expose my ol' CB1100 to day-in-and-day-out profuse hot 'n' humid sunshine and blowing rain during the daytime and snow melt in the winter. I not once had to oil any crevice on the CB1100. The only corrosion I saw was very tiny rust "pits" on the chrome fenders which were easily polished off by hand in mere minutes with some modern chrome polish.

Ah, ya ... the drive chain turned orange. But, that stopped happening when it got its drip from the Tutoro device.

 

[j3gq_imp]

Hi,

I'm looking for some valuable information/experience on how to avoid corrossion.

The bike is a CB1100EX from 2015. Past owners lived close to Normandy beaches. I just have very few areas where I see some corrosion. Otherwise, everything else is "nickel-chrome" like a french would say.

As you seen in the picture, most of the corrosion starts at welded joints. I plan to use ACF50 after reading some of the posts here and there.

How can i safely remove the existing rust ?
Does this mean a poor weld quality from Honda ?

Thanks,
N4R

Envoyé de mon SM-G930F en utilisant Tapatalk

@N4RN
ACF50 will work fine in such tricky places, but do NOT apply from a spray can. Buy liquid (unpressurized), use a manual pressure-container where you can control pressure, change nozzles, use a small hose, etc. It's a little more expensive this way to start, but doesn't waste as much - and the clean up is much easier because you get it where it needs to go. I used it for many, many years inside the wings of our plane. Remember excess quantity might keep running off for up to several days if applied too much.

Your pictures don't allow me to say "this can or cannot be left as it is". Is it cosmetics, is it critical ? Of course it all depends on the initial thickness of the metal, and how much is gone. As far as I can see ... careful of such advice ... there is no concern for the cases you have shown. If you are in doubt go to a good metal workshop near home and ask. They might have more relevant experience than your local Honda dealer.

If you can / like provide better pictures and explain what part it is (if not obvious). Otherwise good luck !!

 

[syncronizator_imp]

I have corosion in the same places.
2014EX allso white.