Rattling noise at idle.

If you're going with a fully synthetic, you can make the transition whenever you want. No need to wait a certain number of miles.
 
Cool read. The way engines are assembled today finding metal particles is extremely unlikely. I've usually done the first oil change anywhere from 300 to 500 miles and gone to synthetic with no issues. But, I say do whatever one is most comfortable with. You only have to make yourself happy ;)
 
Thread starter
Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...
 
No. I use synthetic in everything. Everyone else I ride with does too. No slip :) I can't believe a "dealer" would say that unless they lived under a rock for the past several decades.
 
Thread starter
Motogeezer1949_imp said:
No. I use synthetic in everything. Everyone else I ride with does too. No slip :) I can't believe a "dealer" would say that unless they lived under a rock for the past several decades.
Thanks. Yep, both Sun Honda and Fay Meyers here in Denver told me not to go full synthetic...
 
Ghis_imp said:
Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...
Semi-synthetic would be off my list. Either go with Honda 10-30 Dino GN4 or full Syn HP4 Either are good oils.
 
Ghis_imp said:
Hello all,
I'm new to the forum. I just purchase my 2013 CB1100 a couple weeks ago from a Honda dealer where the bike had been sitting for two years unsold. The bike has about 700 miles now, and I'm hearing a sound I don't like. At idle only, there is a rattling sound coming from what seems to be the lower part or bottom of the engine. It sounds like something is loose, however it disappears once I rev it up or the bike warms up after a few minutes. When I ride, it's all good. If I let the bike sit for about 3 hours, and restart it, the rattling is there. From a completely cold engine, there is no rattling. Anyone experienced this? Am I just worrying for not much? Though the sounds surely doesn't sound normal. I've own many bikes, including Kawasakis, Yamahas, Suzukis, Triumphs, and Harleys, but this is my first Honda. I'm used to hearing noises that are just the bike being what it is, but I'm thinking my new CB may have an issue. I thought I'd check here and see what you guys think before I decide to take it back to the dealer. The dealer performed the 600 miles service, and put in Honda 10W40 instead of the 10W30 the manual says to put in. The dealer says their manual says either or depending on the season.
my bike has rattling noise also at idle, sound like something is loose and it goes away when riding it. I can't determine where the noise come from. Now at 10K, the noise is gone when idle. I guess whatever rattle now settle with others

I don't believe your bike has some loose bolts or such. Don't worry
 
Ghis_imp said:
Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...
Just a point of clarification. HONDA HP4 oil is a petroleum-synthetic blend. HP4S is full synthetic, HP4M is synthetic blend with Moly (friction modifier) added. The M is used in the engine side of CRF motocross bikes, for instance, and the regular HP4 in the gearbox/clutch side.
There are various training programs available to dealers through manufacturers. YAMAHA service training tells us that approximately 63% of what we tell a customer is processed (heard) and of that percentage only 52% is internalized (understood).
 
Ghis_imp said:
Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...
This mixes two different issues. The clutch slippage issues happen if you use oil that has excessive friction modifiers (typically found in car oils). This can happen with both mineral and synthetic oils. What you want is an oil that complies with the JASO-MA specification. That ensures that the oil does not contain friction modifiers that will affect a motorcycle wet clutch. You can find both synthetic and mineral oils that meet the JASO-MA spec and either will be fine for your wet clutch.
 
Flynrider_imp said:
Ghis_imp said:
Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...
This mixes two different issues. The clutch slippage issues happen if you use oil that has excessive friction modifiers (typically found in car oils). This can happen with both mineral and synthetic oils. What you want is an oil that complies with the JASO-MA specification. That ensures that the oil does not contain friction modifiers that will affect a motorcycle wet clutch. You can find both synthetic and mineral oils that meet the JASO-MA spec and either will be fine for your wet clutch.
You're right. One issue is that Ghis doesn't have to go to a brand of oil other than HONDA to get what he wants and the other issue is whenever someone says "the dealer told me.........."

This mixes two different issues. The clutch slippage issues happen if you use oil that has excessive friction modifiers (typically found in car oils). This can happen with both mineral and synthetic oils. What you want is an oil that complies with the JASO-MA specification. That ensures that the oil does not contain friction modifiers that will affect a motorcycle wet clutch. You can find both synthetic and mineral oils that meet the JASO-MA spec and either will be fine for your wet clutch.
 
Thread starter
No luck. I drained the 10W40, and put some 10W30. I let it run for a while, then drained that again. That should have flushed out whatever oil remained in the oil cooler. Replaced the oil filter, and filled it back up with 10W30. Started the bike, and sure enough after running for 2 to 3 minutes the rattling came back. I also notice that as the bike warms up it seems as the noise is going away, but it actually moves up so lightly just above idle, giving the impression that it's gone. Reving the motor a little to 100 to 200 rpm above idle will reveal that the rattling is still there, but it does go away past that. Frustrating for a new bike I only had for a few weeks. Off to the dealer it goes first thing in the morning.
 
Normally, I would be telling you to check your carbs to make sure they are in sync. The rattle is caused by an out of sync carb, which in turn makes the clutch basket make all kinds of noise. But this is a CB1100 we are talking about. I would not worry about it, as I suspect it has something to do with the syncro's in the clutch basket. Does the rattling go away with the clutch lever pulled in? If so, it's in the clutch basket and I would not worry.

Also, sorry to debunk some of the oil theorists but changing over to synthetic oil or changing oil weights will not change this effect whatsoever.
 
EmptySea_imp said:
Maybe it's the higher elevation. :idea:

Hope the dealer can help you out tomorrow.
I would also advise if you are running synthetic oil, to go with a high flow oil filter as synthetics flow better.
 
Help Ferret, but a long time back was there not a post about some bolt that one loosened and it tensioned something? Cam chain maybe?


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Ghis_imp said:
No luck. I drained the 10W40, and put some 10W30. I let it run for a while, then drained that again. That should have flushed out whatever oil remained in the oil cooler. Replaced the oil filter, and filled it back up with 10W30. Started the bike, and sure enough after running for 2 to 3 minutes the rattling came back. I also notice that as the bike warms up it seems as the noise is going away, but it actually moves up so lightly just above idle, giving the impression that it's gone. Reving the motor a little to 100 to 200 rpm above idle will reveal that the rattling is still there, but it does go away past that. Frustrating for a new bike I only had for a few weeks. Off to the dealer it goes first thing in the morning.
Ghis,

Sorry you did not get the same results as several of us, did you take bike out for a 15-20 mile ride?? You need to get the oil flowing through the tranny and fully warmed up otherwise you'll still hear the noise. I would give it a good run and a video of what your hearing would be helpful.
 
Ghis,

The UK member on the UK CB board that had the noise pretty bad had his cam chain tensioner chaned out, I think. At the time, both the dealer and Honda were pretty sketchy about the whole thing.

I can search around for the thread if you want.
 
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