Quick question about chain adjustment

[ohiorider_imp]

The CB1100 manual shows the chain slack being checked on the lower run about 6-7 links in front of the rear sprocket teeth. Since I don't really know where the front sprocket is located (so I can determine the center of the lower chain,) does that seem like a good spot to check the chain slack? Difficult to describe without an illustration.

I want to get the chain adjustment as close to spec as possible, since many on here have told me that the 'clunking' I sometimes experience on downshifts, or simply backing off the throttle regardless of gear, may be in part due to a too-loose chain.

But at the same time, I don't want to destroy a good chain by running it too tight.

My chain doesn't feel all that loose, but when I measure the slack, I'm showing approx 2". That's measured by pushing the lower run down as far as it will go, and then pushing it upward as far as it will go.

If I push up on the lower run closer to the counter shaft sprocket, the chain can be pushed into the swing arm.

I'm not trying to overthink this, but I would like to eliminate some of the drive line clunk without going too tight on the chain.

 

[chync_imp]

I think spec is 1 1/4” slack. I would adjust it. The round thing on the front sprocket cover is directly over the front sprocket. Use that as a reference to locate the approx mid point of the chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ohiorider_imp]

I think spec is 1 1/4” slack. I would adjust it. The round thing on the front sprocket cover is directly over the front sprocket. Use that as a reference to locate the approx mid point of the chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for that piece of info. I'll use that as a reference point.

Bob

 

[alprider]

Seat of the bike and a other person controll it

 

[warman_imp]

Mine had a lot of "clunk" but to it also. But all of went away when I cleaned and oiled the chain good.

 

[chync_imp]

The "clunk" you may hear shifting down into first gear is normal and comes from the transmission design I believe. I saw a great explanation of that somewhere but I can't remember where. Shifting down into 2nd through 5th (on a 6 speed) on mine has always been very smooth.

 

[ohiorider_imp]

I think spec is 1 1/4” slack. I would adjust it. The round thing on the front sprocket cover is directly over the front sprocket. Use that as a reference to locate the approx mid point of the chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did adjust it before putting in a hundred lovely miles today. The weather looks like it's going to fall apart tomorrow, so today was a real gift.

And the CB feels much better. Much less clunking in the drive line. I checked it at 5-6 different chain positions, and I had between 1" and 1.25" slack after the adjustment.

I used the Motion Pro chain alignment tool that's been gathering dust ever since I sold my Bonneville T100 several years ago. I wanted to remove the chain guard so I could attach the tool, so I removed the two bolts I could see. There is apparently a third bolt holding the guard that is well-hidden on the side toward the wheel. Fortunately, removing the two outer bolts allowed me to swing the chain guard upward, giving more than enough room to use the alignment tool. The tool provides an additional level of confidence that the sprocket and chain are in alignment.

https://www.google.com/search?q=motion+p...e&ie=UTF-8

Thanks to all for their advice.

Bob

 

[kennyw]

I think spec is 1 1/4” slack. I would adjust it. The round thing on the front sprocket cover is directly over the front sprocket. Use that as a reference to locate the approx mid point of the chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did adjust it before putting in a hundred lovely miles today. The weather looks like it's going to fall apart tomorrow, so today was a real gift.

And the CB feels much better. Much less clunking in the drive line. I checked it at 5-6 different chain positions, and I had between 1" and 1.25" slack after the adjustment.

I used the Motion Pro chain alignment tool that's been gathering dust ever since I sold my Bonneville T100 several years ago. I wanted to remove the chain guard so I could attach the tool, so I removed the two bolts I could see. There is apparently a third bolt holding the guard that is well-hidden on the side toward the wheel. Fortunately, removing the two outer bolts allowed me to swing the chain guard upward, giving more than enough room to use the alignment tool. The tool provides an additional level of confidence that the sprocket and chain are in alignment.

https://www.google.com/search?q=motion+p...e&ie=UTF-8

Thanks to all for their advice.

Bob

That third mounting point is just a tab and slot towards the front of the guard. It will come out with a little wiggle while pulling up.

 

[ohiorider_imp]

I think spec is 1 1/4” slack. I would adjust it. The round thing on the front sprocket cover is directly over the front sprocket. Use that as a reference to locate the approx mid point of the chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did adjust it before putting in a hundred lovely miles today. The weather looks like it's going to fall apart tomorrow, so today was a real gift.

And the CB feels much better. Much less clunking in the drive line. I checked it at 5-6 different chain positions, and I had between 1" and 1.25" slack after the adjustment.

I used the Motion Pro chain alignment tool that's been gathering dust ever since I sold my Bonneville T100 several years ago. I wanted to remove the chain guard so I could attach the tool, so I removed the two bolts I could see. There is apparently a third bolt holding the guard that is well-hidden on the side toward the wheel. Fortunately, removing the two outer bolts allowed me to swing the chain guard upward, giving more than enough room to use the alignment tool. The tool provides an additional level of confidence that the sprocket and chain are in alignment.

https://www.google.com/search?q=motion+p...e&ie=UTF-8

Thanks to all for their advice.

Bob

That third mounting point is just a tab and slot towards the front of the guard. It will come out with a little wiggle while pulling up.

That third mounting point is just a tab and slot towards the front of the guard. It will come out with a little wiggle while pulling up.
Good info. I'll be buying a shop manual over the winter.

Bob

 

[Full Throttle_imp]

Don't over think it. it's just a chain.

 

[ohiorider_imp]

Don't over think it. it's just a chain.

I wasn't necessarily trying to overthink it, but I can't help thinking back to the days when I would remove a chain (non-o-ring obviously) from my 1963 BSA, clean it up, and soak it in a bath of (was it melted paraffin?) Back then, we were cautioned not to over-tighten the chain, since it would put excess wear on (a) the chain, (b) the sprockets, and © bearings supporting the primary sprocket shaft and rear wheel bearings.

So, old habits die hard. I still worry about over-tightening or misaligning chains and sprockets. However, since so many on this forum discussed having proper chain slack to eliminate drive line 'clunk,' I do tend to over think chain tension and alignment, because the 1" - 1.25" tolerance is rather tight to begin with.

Bob

 

[flynrider]

Don't over think it. it's just a chain.

I wasn't necessarily trying to overthink it, but I can't help thinking back to the days when I would remove a chain (non-o-ring obviously) from my 1963 BSA, clean it up, and soak it in a bath of (was it melted paraffin?) Back then, we were cautioned not to over-tighten the chain, since it would put excess wear on (a) the chain, (b) the sprockets, and © bearings supporting the primary sprocket shaft and rear wheel bearings.

So, old habits die hard. I still worry about over-tightening or misaligning chains and sprockets. However, since so many on this forum discussed having proper chain slack to eliminate drive line 'clunk,' I do tend to over think chain tension and alignment, because the 1" - 1.25" tolerance is rather tight to begin with.

Bob

FWIW, those concerns are still valid. If your chain is too tight, it will wear the driveline components prematurely.

I always try to keep my chain near the loose end of the spec. Over the decades, I've found they tend to last longer. The downside is that you have to deal with a bit more slop in the driveline, but judicious use of throttle and clutch will lessen the effects.

 

[Nortoon_imp]

Don't over think it. it's just a chain.

I wasn't necessarily trying to overthink it, but I can't help thinking back to the days when I would remove a chain (non-o-ring obviously) from my 1963 BSA, clean it up, and soak it in a bath of (was it melted paraffin?) Back then, we were cautioned not to over-tighten the chain, since it would put excess wear on (a) the chain, (b) the sprockets, and © bearings supporting the primary sprocket shaft and rear wheel bearings.

So, old habits die hard. I still worry about over-tightening or misaligning chains and sprockets. However, since so many on this forum discussed having proper chain slack to eliminate drive line 'clunk,' I do tend to over think chain tension and alignment, because the 1" - 1.25" tolerance is rather tight to begin with.

Bob

Sounds familiar. In the 60s and 70s, whenever I was changing the oil in a motorcycle, I would drain it into an old pot. Then I would remove the chain (master link), coil it up in the pot, and heat it with an old electric element with a cord and plug. After the chain cooked a while, I hung it on the clothes line with a coat hanger and let the excess oil drip off.

If today's tree huggers only knew what we did with the oil after that, they would faint. :dodgy:

 

[ohiorider_imp]

Don't over think it. it's just a chain.

I wasn't necessarily trying to overthink it, but I can't help thinking back to the days when I would remove a chain (non-o-ring obviously) from my 1963 BSA, clean it up, and soak it in a bath of (was it melted paraffin?) Back then, we were cautioned not to over-tighten the chain, since it would put excess wear on (a) the chain, (b) the sprockets, and © bearings supporting the primary sprocket shaft and rear wheel bearings.

So, old habits die hard. I still worry about over-tightening or misaligning chains and sprockets. However, since so many on this forum discussed having proper chain slack to eliminate drive line 'clunk,' I do tend to over think chain tension and alignment, because the 1" - 1.25" tolerance is rather tight to begin with.

Bob

Sounds familiar. In the 60s and 70s, whenever I was changing the oil in a motorcycle, I would drain it into an old pot. Then I would remove the chain (master link), coil it up in the pot, and heat it with an old electric element with a cord and plug. After the chain cooked a while, I hung it on the clothes line with a coat hanger and let the excess oil drip off.

If today's tree huggers only knew what we did with the oil after that, they would faint. :dodgy:

Sounds familiar. In the 60s and 70s, whenever I was changing the oil in a motorcycle, I would drain it into an old pot. Then I would remove the chain (master link), coil it up in the pot, and heat it with an old electric element with a cord and plug. After the chain cooked a while, I hung it on the clothes line with a coat hanger and let the excess oil drip off.

If today's tree huggers only knew what we did with the oil after that, they would faint. :dodgy: Now I thought of another thing that worked for me ......... I always kept the previous chain (hung up in the garage) and hooked it to the current chain as I pulled it off the sprockets. Now, the old chain was in place, ready for me to use to pull the newly lubed chain back onto the sprockets.

Did I confuse anyone with this?

Bob

 

[Django]

Don't over think it. it's just a chain.

I wasn't necessarily trying to overthink it, but I can't help thinking back to the days when I would remove a chain (non-o-ring obviously) from my 1963 BSA, clean it up, and soak it in a bath of (was it melted paraffin?) Back then, we were cautioned not to over-tighten the chain, since it would put excess wear on (a) the chain, (b) the sprockets, and © bearings supporting the primary sprocket shaft and rear wheel bearings.

So, old habits die hard. I still worry about over-tightening or misaligning chains and sprockets. However, since so many on this forum discussed having proper chain slack to eliminate drive line 'clunk,' I do tend to over think chain tension and alignment, because the 1" - 1.25" tolerance is rather tight to begin with.

Bob

Sounds familiar. In the 60s and 70s, whenever I was changing the oil in a motorcycle, I would drain it into an old pot. Then I would remove the chain (master link), coil it up in the pot, and heat it with an old electric element with a cord and plug. After the chain cooked a while, I hung it on the clothes line with a coat hanger and let the excess oil drip off.

If today's tree huggers only knew what we did with the oil after that, they would faint. :dodgy:

Sounds familiar. In the 60s and 70s, whenever I was changing the oil in a motorcycle, I would drain it into an old pot. Then I would remove the chain (master link), coil it up in the pot, and heat it with an old electric element with a cord and plug. After the chain cooked a while, I hung it on the clothes line with a coat hanger and let the excess oil drip off.

If today's tree huggers only knew what we did with the oil after that, they would faint. :dodgy: Now I thought of another thing that worked for me ......... I always kept the previous chain (hung up in the garage) and hooked it to the current chain as I pulled it off the sprockets. Now, the old chain was in place, ready for me to use to pull the newly lubed chain back onto the sprockets.

Did I confuse anyone with this?

Bob

Dang! I thought I was the only one who knew this trick. :beerchug: