pull back

[Southwend]

with the addition of my Corbin seat I need about an inch more height on my handlebars to allow me to straighten my back out. The problem is that my fairing uses the risers as a mounting point so I must change the handle bar. I assume the factory is about 4 inches? Any subbestions where I might find what I need?

 

[Lord Popgun]

How about a pic of the way that fairing is mounted. There are risers that mount on the OEM riser. Maybe you could sandwich it or something. There are pics of this type of riser on the board. I'll look later if you want.

 

[rboe]

Check out Rox risers (amazon.com is one source) to see if they would help.

 

[Southwend]

I looked at it and thought the same but did not think such a solution was available. The fairing ahs supports to the top of the riser so some sort of sandwich would be a good solution.

How about a pic of the way that fairing is mounted. There are risers that mount on the OEM riser. Maybe you could sandwich it or something. There are pics of this type of riser on the board. I'll look later if you want.

that would be great, thanks.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Well if you search on risers a ton of stuff comes up but I cannot find the one I was thinking of.

However, the 2 links below show an interesting design that might work for you. Check them out and see what you think. The second link shows a good top view pic.

Post up your pic if possible. There are some really smart members here. Someone will have a solution.

Seat mod and Cockpit management

GenMar X102 Risers

 

[Redbird_imp]

southwend, I seem to remember that you have a Parabelum Scout fairing. That is what I have mounted to mine and I am using a Twisted Throttle SW Motech riser http://www.twistedthrottle.com/hand...-suzuki-triumph-yamaha-pair-1-rise-1-pullback

I had to use a nut as a spacer (the forward mounting bolt needs to be able to slip through it) to allow the fairing mount to lay flat, works fine and gives me enough pullback. You could also modify the riser so that the front mounting area is flat. If I am right about your fairing, let me know and I'll put up a picture of what I'm describing here.
Ken

 

[Southwend]

looks like the gen mar x-103/x-104 is the sandwich style riser. 7/8" work?

 

[Ron in MO_imp]

The GenMar are the ones I bought for my CB and they should work with the sandwich solution you are looking for. 7/8 inch is the correct size handlebar.

 

[Southwend]

southwend, I seem to remember that you have a Parabelum Scout fairing. That is what I have mounted to mine and I am using a Twisted Throttle SW Motech riser http://www.twistedthrottle.com/hand...-suzuki-triumph-yamaha-pair-1-rise-1-pullback

I had to use a nut as a spacer (the forward mounting bolt needs to be able to slip through it) to allow the fairing mount to lay flat, works fine and gives me enough pullback. You could also modify the riser so that the front mounting area is flat. If I am right about your fairing, let me know and I'll put up a picture of what I'm describing here.
Ken

You are spot on, parabellum.
I figure an inch back should work as a minimum. A bit more would be better. However I am concerned about using up what little play is available in my brake/throttle cables.

 

[Southwend]

At the twisted throttle site I found a set of ROX 7/8" risers that will allow me to keep the stock risers in place as well as have more options for pivoting. The question is how much rise can I get away with before I run into cable issues?
I was riding the other day and would sit back and carefully pull my hands off the grips, amazing what a difference in rider geometry 1-2 inches makes. The pressure comes off of my wrists and my back straightens enough to stack the force rather than place it at the pivot in the small of my back. Hard to be accurate but I think the 1.25-2 inch range is where I need to be.

 

[White Dog_imp]

I have the GenMar X102 risers which are 1" up and about 1 1/2" back. The only wiring issue I saw was moving the front brake line to the inside of the wire holder for the throttle cables. Not much of a distance but enough to work. Wonder why that line wasn't inside the wire holder from the factory? Electrical wiring was no problem.

 

[Redbird_imp]

Here are some pics of how I mounted mine while using the SW-Motech pullback risers. To get the fairing supports to contact the handlebar clamps and lay flat, in addition to the Parabellum supplied spacer, I added a nut as an additional spacer



I used a washer stack that's about the thickness of the nut at the other end

[url=https://redbirdpics.smugmug.com/Fairing-mount/n-bVzPwp/i-2hX4hbS/A]

Another view

[url=https://redbirdpics.smugmug.com/Fairing-mount/n-bVzPwp/i-LT8mRLq/A]

Here are the risers

[url=https://redbirdpics.smugmug.com/Fairing-mount/n-bVzPwp/i-LNnxq4T/A]

I removed the tie that held the wires and hoses to the handlebar and just tied them together. I also bent the wire retainer on the right side of the instrument cluster away enough so that the brake line could slide inside it. That is a fairly thick and stiff retainer -- I used a slide hammer with a gear puller attachment to pull it away from the cluster. Hook one of the gear puller ends over the retainer wire and have at it until there is enough clearance.

[url=https://redbirdpics.smugmug.com/Fairing-mount/n-bVzPwp/i-Gg4pL67/A]

I would think the genmar risers would install similarly. The ROX risers for 7/8" bars may also work for the fairing mount since you retain the original handlebar clamp when using them. I'm not sure that you would have enough brake/clutch line length when using the ROX risers though.

Ken

 

[Lord Popgun]

And Redbird's mounting was exactly what I was thinking could be a solution when I posted the links above.

Thanks for posting that Redbird. I knew someone would have a solution!

 

[Redbird_imp]

If you want to use the ROX, take a sheet of paper and draw out a side view of the handlebar mounts by using the rise and pullback specs for the SW-Motech riser and the Genmar riser. We know they will work without changing brake and clutch lines. Now take a 2" length of something and with one end at the centerpoint of the original handlebar location, swivel it and see how it lines up with where the SW-Motech and the Genmar units place the handlebar. This should give you a good idea if the ROX riser will work without line modification.
Edit:
Ok, I just laid out the rise and pullback of the SW-Motech and Genmar risers on graph paper. The centerpoint to centerpoint distance for the SW-Motech is 1 and 1/2" and for the Genmar it's 1 and 11/16".
So...my suggestion would be to use this ROX riser:
2" Pivoting Anti-Vibe Bar Risers with a 7/8" stem clamp, can accept 7/

If you discover a line reach problem with it, you can shave off the rubber antivibe bit until you can bolt the riser parts together metal to metal. That will shorten it. If necessary you could remove a bit of metal from the part that clamps to the original handlebar location and bolt back together to shorten it more. This will give you the 1 and 11/16" distance to match the Genmar if you need to get to that -- you may not need to get there though, you may find that you can get that 5/16" extra from the lines.

 

[Southwend]

Here are some pics of how I mounted mine while using the SW-Motech pullback risers. To get the fairing supports to contact the handlebar clamps and lay flat, in addition to the Parabellum supplied spacer, I added a nut as an additional spacer



I used a washer stack that's about the thickness of the nut at the other end

[url=https://redbirdpics.smugmug.com/Fairing-mount/n-bVzPwp/i-2hX4hbS/A]

Another view

[url=https://redbirdpics.smugmug.com/Fairing-mount/n-bVzPwp/i-LT8mRLq/A]

Here are the risers

[url=https://redbirdpics.smugmug.com/Fairing-mount/n-bVzPwp/i-LNnxq4T/A]

I removed the tie that held the wires and hoses to the handlebar and just tied them together. I also bent the wire retainer on the right side of the instrument cluster away enough so that the brake line could slide inside it. That is a fairly thick and stiff retainer -- I used a slide hammer with a gear puller attachment to pull it away from the cluster. Hook one of the gear puller ends over the retainer wire and have at it until there is enough clearance.

[url=https://redbirdpics.smugmug.com/Fairing-mount/n-bVzPwp/i-Gg4pL67/A]

I would think the genmar risers would install similarly. The ROX risers for 7/8" bars may also work for the fairing mount since you retain the original handlebar clamp when using them. I'm not sure that you would have enough brake/clutch line length when using the ROX risers though.

Ken

Nice application, great pictures, thanks!
I have cables running to the inside of the mounts. Running them outside opens up some additional room. As per usual you gents have provided the assistance I needed and then some. 2" makes me a bit nervous even though it permits angular adjustment.
The argument of tried and true is very valid in this case. Replacement/modification of the lines is not a thing I wish to dive into.

 

[Redbird_imp]

southwend, if you haven't already noticed the edit of my post above, take a look. I think if you want a ROX, the riser I'm talking about would be the best one (and of course, the most expensive one) to use

 

[Southwend]

southwend, if you haven't already noticed the edit of my post above, take a look. I think if you want a ROX, the riser I'm talking about would be the best one (and of course, the most expensive one) to use

I am not altogether sold on anything. I am going home now to sit on the bike and try to get a feel for dimension. Your riser is I believe making a triangle with two 1" legs. This makes the diagonal (hypotenuse)real close to two inches. The Rox is a bit tougher to estimate as the 2" is measured from the center to the center of the holes. But it suggests that once you use up the radius of the two holes, 1/2 of 7/8 x2 brings you right back to 7/8 the diagonal is more like 1 and 1/8 inch.
Expensive as compared to the Parabellum. As you well know I am already into this pretty deep. I'm leaning back to the redbird option.

 

[Southwend]

Of course I had a ROX riser sent to me and it really wants to work. However the problem is the electrical bundle that comes from the starter switch. All other cables appear to have enough slack. I need to see if there is someway to re-route these wires to come up by the tank, but in order to do so I will need to disconnect them at one end or the other. I will look at it today and see. Perhaps it is easiest to disconnect at the handle bar switch. The switch appears to have a couple of screws holding it together. But I am sure that there is more involved because it is always more difficult than it first appears.
just looked at an exploded diagram it appears that the wires plug into the back of the headlight. Much easier than my first idea.