Deanohh_imp
Been there
For those that believe, no proof is necessary. For those that do not, none is possible.
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A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German.ingobohn_imp said:A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German.The ferret_imp said:Dang.... An argument over oil. Imagine that!
I trust Honda engineers, they designed the motor, it is their job to tell me how best to take care of it, and if they say use 10w30 dino oil ( and that 10w40 dino oil is ok too), ... THAT ... is good enough for me.
If they say drain the oil first, then the oil filter .... THAT .... is good enough for me too.
Will other methods and other lubricants also work? Undoubtedly. Necessary or better? Not necessarily. Could be..might not be. I am not an engineer...and I don't play one on the internet.
Since I am not an engineer on metallurgy or an expert on the properties of oil, I will rely on real engineers to tell me what they have determined is necessary to keep my engine running at it's peak. It's clearly spelled out in my owners manual and service manual.
If you choose to believe in superstitions, wive's tales, rumors, internet horror stories of a friend of a friend who had a buddy who, or a buddy who rides an X and is a fanatic about oil, that is certainly your prerogative.
You are certainly free to express your opinion, but please keep the discussion civil so that Guth and I don't receive complaints and are forced to step in and do something. That is all we ask.Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...!
)
But what is dino oil?
I know full synth oil, I know partly synth oil and I know mineral oil (that's how we call here in Germany the "worst" quality).
I assume that dino oil the last one, right?![]()
Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...!
)
Philosopher eh.? I'm a self-made { more like Homemade }Deanohh_imp said:For those that believe, no proof is necessary. For those that do not, none is possible.
not just ANY dinosaurs...ROTTING dinosaurskenfyoozed_imp said:A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German.ingobohn_imp said:A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German.The ferret_imp said:Dang.... An argument over oil. Imagine that!
I trust Honda engineers, they designed the motor, it is their job to tell me how best to take care of it, and if they say use 10w30 dino oil ( and that 10w40 dino oil is ok too), ... THAT ... is good enough for me.
If they say drain the oil first, then the oil filter .... THAT .... is good enough for me too.
Will other methods and other lubricants also work? Undoubtedly. Necessary or better? Not necessarily. Could be..might not be. I am not an engineer...and I don't play one on the internet.
Since I am not an engineer on metallurgy or an expert on the properties of oil, I will rely on real engineers to tell me what they have determined is necessary to keep my engine running at it's peak. It's clearly spelled out in my owners manual and service manual.
If you choose to believe in superstitions, wive's tales, rumors, internet horror stories of a friend of a friend who had a buddy who, or a buddy who rides an X and is a fanatic about oil, that is certainly your prerogative.
You are certainly free to express your opinion, but please keep the discussion civil so that Guth and I don't receive complaints and are forced to step in and do something. That is all we ask.Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...!
)
But what is dino oil?
I know full synth oil, I know partly synth oil and I know mineral oil (that's how we call here in Germany the "worst" quality).
I assume that dino oil the last one, right?![]()
Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...!
)
But what is dino oil?
I know full synth oil, I know partly synth oil and I know mineral oil (that's how we call here in Germany the "worst" quality).
I assume that dino oil the last one, right?![]()
yes those two (dino & mineral oil) should be the same. Dino = slang for dinosaurs, from which we get the oil in the first place....:celebrate:
...Wrong.get yer head right._imp said:Wrong.get yer head right.Deanohh_imp said:If it heats faster, it cools faster. Thermo conductivity works both ways.
The entire reason Harley cruisers require 20w-50 is
because they are air-cooled.Therefore they are expected to
run hotter than the water-cooled metrics.Which require
10w-40.
Plus many Harley models have oil cooler units on them.
Which totally blows yer theory all to heck.
Fair reply.However Amsoil has a 10w-40 oil specificallyfurious_blue_imp said:Harleys have roller bearing cranks and can handle thick 20-50 oil. No way would I put that heavy oil in the plain bearing crank cb, it's asking for inadequate lubrication. I'll go with what the honda engineers recommend using.
i just change oil last weekend at 4.2K miles, the oil does look dirty with some sediments. I will change oil every 3 K miles.CIP57_imp said:Changed my oil yesterday with 2700 miles. Last oil change was at 550. The oil was so dirty with sediment with only 2200 miles. I used a clear glass to collect some oil to inspect as i do with other bikes. Also, 1.1 qts stays in the system via the oil cooler primarily. They should have a drain on the oil cooler with a fill. I think I'll be changing my oil more frequently than suggested on this bike.
hy:Absolutely wrong.Couldn't be father from reality.Greg Davis_imp said:frequent oil changes, are the key, any good quality oil, 10-30 or 10-40 frequency is more important than brand of oil.
In my experience this has been true. I tend to use good oils to what I think are very good oil (and I think it is unsaid but understood the oil has to be compatible with a wet clutch). But a good quality yak fat, changed often, will suit the motor just fine.Greg Davis_imp said:frequent oil changes, are the key, any good quality oil, 10-30 or 10-40 frequency is more important than brand of oil.
No argument that when an engine goes w/o oil,even if only_imp said:No argument that when an engine goes w/o oil,even if onlyDeanohh_imp said:All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.
The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.
Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.
If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?
a few seconds,it can cause damage.So a complely empty oil cooler would deprive the engine whatever amount it takes to run.
meaning about a quart low.That is why maybe Honda should have
put a temp gauge for the oil cooler to show how it is cooling.
A thermostat at least.Which I'm sure is somewhere within the unit.
The entire reason Harley run on 20w-50 { thicker oil } is in
helping to cool the engine when it gets hot,like in the summer months.
I think you've got it ass backwards.10w-30 would be better for
cooler months and easier starting.because in cooler months a
bike doesn't require cooling as much as in the dead of summer.
I don't think lighter weight fluid { 10w-30 } flowing easier
translates into the oil cooler being more efficient for cooling.
Easier flowing oil would also be more suspectible to degradation
and evaporation due to heat transfer.Lighter weight oil would
heat faster ... got it.
There are two oil pumps and two separate circuits. You wouldn't starve the bearing IF it drained out of the cooler.Deanohh_imp said:All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.
The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.
Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.
If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?
There are two oil pumps and two separate circuits. You wouldn't starve the bearing IF it drained out of the cooler.Dakota_imp said:There are two oil pumps and two separate circuits. You wouldn't starve the bearing IF it drained out of the cooler.Deanohh_imp said:All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.
The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.
Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.
If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?
There are two oil pumps and two separate circuits. You wouldn't starve the bearing IF it drained out of the cooler.Deanohh_imp said:There are two oil pumps and two separate circuits. You wouldn't starve the bearing IF it drained out of the cooler.Dakota_imp said:There are two oil pumps and two separate circuits. You wouldn't starve the bearing IF it drained out of the cooler.Deanohh_imp said:All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.
The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.
Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.
If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?
whatever you say. Nobody cares about this anymore anyway.
I don't know that I agree with that. The higher the viscosity, the greater the head, and the lower the coolant flow. I would also guess that a higher viscosity would have less turbulent flow which would reduce cooling effectiveness.thessler3_imp said:The viscosity of a multi-grade oil like 10W30 or 20W50 changes with temperature. Viscosity is simply the ability of an oil to flow. The first number/letter, eg. 10W is the viscosity in winter temperatures and the second number is the viscosity at high temperatures.
Misconceptions:
1) oil viscosity has nothing to do with its ability to carry away heat or cool an engine.
2) Oil viscosity has little to do with its ability to reduce friction.
3) Harleys and some other bikes generate very high cylinder head temperatures, especially near the exhaust valve. Using a 20W50 weight oil supposedly allows the engine to better tolerate those high temperatures. However, that may be simply due to old fashioned thinking. Indy racers typically run very low (0W) viscosity oil to get faster flow thru the engine and coolers and require less power to pump the oil.
4) Synthetic oil is not necessarily "slicker" than petroleum oil. That capability is largely a factor of the friction modifier additives in the oil. The main benefits of synthetic is the ability to tolerate extreme temperatures and the ability to not break down over time.