Not so comfortable after few hours

Yeah my tush hurts after a couple of hours. I did not really buy this bike tho thinking it would be super comfy tho. That being said..I still would like to take it on some curvy roads in the area that are 5-8 hrs away from home. Corbin seat might be good for my Butt!!!!


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kvdv_imp said:
PowerDubs_imp said:
Well, bar risers and set backs only do that- raise and move back. The angle of the bar stays the same.

What I did is bars that are the same height, and not moved back, but more pulled back- (swept towards the rider) as well as wider for more leverage on the bars and less shoulder strain.
Hey Josh... those bars look great, and I like the idea a LOT. Three questions...any issue at all with tank clearance when turned full stop? Were you able to use existing cables and such or did you need to lengthen anything? Last but not least, what bars are those (part number, source)? Thanks in advance!
Hey Josh... those bars look great, and I like the idea a LOT. Three questions...any issue at all with tank clearance when turned full stop? Were you able to use existing cables and such or did you need to lengthen anything? Last but not least, what bars are those (part number, source)? Thanks in advance!
did you ever get this info from Josh? I'd like the same info!
 
Hi guys, I'll see if I can find the part number when I get home from work tonight.

They are Honda bars, and also will fit the bar end weights. You will need to re-drill the holes for the controls, or at least I did because I retrofitted 2013 controls on to my 2014.

The stock cables/hoses fit but are tight.


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The handle bars look very interesting. I thought about changing the angle of the bar and I think it would improve long trips in the saddle.
 
I've finally solved the "vibration" issue that has been causing my right hand to go numb after 30 minutes of riding. It was caused by damaged carpel tunnel nerves in my arm which also go through the palm of one's hands. My right arm has such damage over years of using a computer mouse and keyboard as a programmer. So, once I read about those nerves moving through my palm, the one wrapped around the throttle, I changed my riding position so only my fingers are wrapped around the throttle and not my palm and the problem never appeared again. I also sit further back in the seat almost to the strap and this stretches my arm out which helps those nerves and is very comfortable for me and seems to be a good position for my legs as it turns out, once I got used to the feel of the shifter in that position. So, my earlier efforts using foam handlebar grips and trying to use a looser grip had no good affect and I was at the point of thinking of either quitting riding or changing to a cruiser style bike in an attempt to change the dynamics that trigger this tingling numbness, even paying some heed to some who have written about the naturally high frequency vibrations that might be inherent in a four cylinder engine but fortunately even if some of that is true to an extend, the real issue with me anyway was pressure on my palm which triggered the tingling and then the numbness in my hand due to carpal tunnel damage and the real fix is not to the bike but to my riding position that stretches my arms out comfortably and taking the weight off my palms.
 
One must second motogeezer on that. I lost 30 lbs. and all motorcycles are more comfortable for longer. Still have a few to go though.
 
I was seriously unimpressed with the bar end design. I pulled my bar ends out yesterday (well, one of them) and the internals are not what I expected to find.

The bar ends are attached to a long aluminum rod that slides inside the bar (my 2014 definitely does not have "lead" weights - it's aluminum). The bar ends themselves are not lead either, they are definitely steel (magnet test).

I don't have a pic, but the rod is probably 7" long. Rubber sleeves keep the bar suspended and isolated from the bar. But it does not appear to offer much high-frequency vibration damping, or so it would seem because there is definitely a vibration at speed (forget RPM, around 3500 or so) with the stock bars / stock bar weights. The weight of the bar end internal aluminum bar does not appear to me to be sufficient. I intend to modify this and increase the bar end weights substantially.

I looked around, this is a frequent problem. Aftermarket solutions exist for some ridiculous inflated prices, so I'll try something in my home shop first.

High-frequency vibration can be reduced (tuned-out) with increased bar weights, which need to at the furthest point from the clamps (which would be another place to try something). Brass, lead, tungsten would be better then the aluminum weight I found. Maybe someone else has already tried this and will report back.

I also find the saddle to be butt-numbing far too quickly. I'd like to try a K&H or something better then stock.

Sigh... 2 more posts to go...
 
I have heard tell of filling the handle bars with BBs or lead shot. Might help and isn't so expensive to try.
 
Nightengale_imp said:
I was seriously unimpressed with the bar end design. I pulled my bar ends out yesterday (well, one of them) and the internals are not what I expected to find.

The bar ends are attached to a long aluminum rod that slides inside the bar (my 2014 definitely does not have "lead" weights - it's aluminum). The bar ends themselves are not lead either, they are definitely steel (magnet test).

I don't have a pic, but the rod is probably 7" long. Rubber sleeves keep the bar suspended and isolated from the bar. But it does not appear to offer much high-frequency vibration damping, or so it would seem because there is definitely a vibration at speed (forget RPM, around 3500 or so) with the stock bars / stock bar weights. The weight of the bar end internal aluminum bar does not appear to me to be sufficient. I intend to modify this and increase the bar end weights substantially.

I looked around, this is a frequent problem. Aftermarket solutions exist for some ridiculous inflated prices, so I'll try something in my home shop first.

High-frequency vibration can be reduced (tuned-out) with increased bar weights, which need to at the furthest point from the clamps (which would be another place to try something). Brass, lead, tungsten would be better then the aluminum weight I found. Maybe someone else has already tried this and will report back.

I also find the saddle to be butt-numbing far too quickly. I'd like to try a K&H or something better then stock.

Sigh... 2 more posts to go...
Popgun would tell you to go to the new members section and say G'day to two new members.
 
PowerDubs_imp said:
Well, bar risers and set backs only do that- raise and move back. The angle of the bar stays the same.

What I did is bars that are the same height, and not moved back, but more pulled back- (swept towards the rider) as well as wider for more leverage on the bars and less shoulder strain.
Thanks PowerDubs, this is what I need and looks better than the original ;-). Ordered last week at Partzilla.com and waiting for the postman. Cheers Erik
 
I hope you like it. Remember if you need to drill new control holes- measure twice cut once.
339c882e9458b999cffad0b022667f2a.png



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I am 6' 2" tall and found the bars on my 2017 EX to be a little far forward. The bar mounts on the yoke of this model are a little farther forward than previous CBs. I followed a suggestion made by others here and bought some GenMar pull-back bar risers. They set the bars up 1 inch and back 1 3/8ths inches. That allows me to sit more upright which is a more comfortable riding position for me.
 
PowerDubs_imp said:
I hope you like it. Remember if you need to drill new control holes- measure twice cut once.
339c882e9458b999cffad0b022667f2a.png



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Just ordered the handlebars you described. Taking a while to get here, but with my corbin seat, I am looking forward to having a comfortable CB. Yes, I am a sissy but at 71 my boney seat needs a break. Never understood how Honda can make such great bikes and crummy stock seats. Mine is a 2013.

Thanks for the help

George
 
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