No spark, no start engine. Help me ;/

[dawid00922_imp]

I have a problem with starting my Honda CB1100 (2013) motorcycle.
I had a small accident (slide).
I do not have a spark on the motorcycle, the motorcycle does not start.
After turning the key, the HISS lamp goes out and the fuel pump is working.
By pressing the start button, the motorcycle does not start, no spark.
All fuses without damage. I am looking for nothing, nothing results.

 

[Inhouse Bob]

Sorry to hear of your fall and hope you are well.
Perhaps a kill switch was damaged in the fall? Check the kickstand switch since that might have been damaged in the slide.
Good luck!

 

[emptysea]

It seems to me, but I could be wrong, that you have to turn the kill switch to off and then back to on after a drop.

 

[the Ferret]

Couple questions.. You know for sure that there is no spark, or it just won't start? Iin other words you are saying it turns over but doesn't start, right?

Do you have it upright, in neutral, with the side stand up? (or on centerstand, in neutral with the side stand up). Have you recycled (turn off and on) the ignition switch? Have you checked and recycled (put sidestand down and back up) the side stand switch ? Have you checked and recycled (turned it off and back on both directions) the emergency kill switch?

Which side of the bike hit the pavement?

 

[redbirds_imp]

Is the engine turning over? If so, try holding the throttle wide open while starting. If you have not tried already, remove one spark plug, connect it's plug wire, hold the base of the plug against the cylinder head and turn the engine over to see if there is a spark across the plug gap.

 

[SportsterDoc]

Good questions, thus far:

1. Does the starter motor operate ("crank")?

2. How do you know there is no spark? Was it tested as suggested?

In gear the clutch needs to be pulled (or clutch switch jumpered) AND side stand up (switch closed), with stop/run in run position for starter to operate. All are in series.

In neutral, the clutch switch closed and side stand switch closed does not matter, as that circuit is parallel to the neutral circuit. Do you have neutral indication?

Since you can hear the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay should not be an issue.

Other than a wire broken/disconnected, likely issues are:

A. Engine stop relay

B. BAS failed to reset (cycle stop/run switch)

The stop/run switch is powered by the fused white/black wire and the black wire feeds the engine stop relay coil.

The engine stop relay coil circuit is completed via the red/orange wire to the BAS. The BAS, energized by the a white/black wire from same fuse, closes the red/orange wire to the green wire for ground. Jumpering the BAS connector, red/orange to green, should bypass it.

When the engine stop relay coil is energized, it closes contacts from white/black (switched power) to the red/white wire to the starter relay switch. Jumpering these two positions should bypass the engine stop relay.

Ignition coils are energized by white/black wires (switched power) and the secondary circuits completed by the ECM, positions A12 and A3

It seems to me, but I could be wrong, that you have to turn the kill switch to off and then back to on after a drop.

Yes, I understand that a tilt interrupts switched power (white/black) in the BAS, which interrupts red/orange to green.

 

[Lord Popgun]

BAS is the Bank Angle Sensor for those not knowing.

 

[dawid00922_imp]

So yes:
The starter spins, the fuel pump is working properly.
The presser foot sensor works properly.
The neutral position sensor also works correctly.

Does the tilt sensor need a restart? Could it be damaged?
I made a jumper, no positives.

 

[Lord Popgun]

According to the diagram, if the fuel pump is running at all, the BAS is not the problem.

Since the pump runs (we have to take your word for it), the BAS, Engine Stop relay and Fuel Cut-Off relay and stop switch (kill switch) are working properly. Also, the 20A and 10A and 30A main fuse in the circuit have to be good. And they appear to be or the circuit would not work.

The problem is somewhere else. Also keep in mind that we do not have the HISS in the US and it is not in our manual. Max may be able to speak to that.

Again, how do you KNOW you don’t have spark? And what side of the bike hit the ground?

Is the check engine light on?

For good help, you have to be very specific in your answers.

 

[jimgl3_imp]

I second Redbird's suggestion. Hold the throttle wide open while starting. That worked for me with similar symptoms after changing battery. It apparently resets the TPS.

 

[max]

Ok popgun, I'll speak on that one,

The Hiss is working fine, you cannot get the instruments to sweep let alone start the engine if it is not happy.

If the Crankshaft sensor wiring is not damaged as it exits the engine on the right hand side it is time to disconnect one sparkplug lead and see if there is a spark, this machine has two coils with one sparkplug on each end of the high voltage lead.

does the orange "check engine light" blink at all?

Second on the starting with throttle wide open.

There is a procedure that erases all historic fault codes from memory by using the red diagnostic connector on the left hand side under the side cover, it unclips easy once you know to lift a small tab with a small screwdriver, take your time with this.

With a small wire connect the green and the brown wire ( not the orange/white k data wire ) and follow the instructions in the description below;

Leftclick and leftclick again for full size picture ( its pretty big )

if the engine cannot be started it may need to be reset as follows;

it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.

Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.

When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.

The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.

Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.

Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) .

My polish is not very good but i hope my English works for you.

Cheers max

 

[peterbaron]

Ok popgun, I'll speak on that one,

The Hiss is working fine, you cannot get the instruments to sweep let alone start the engine if it is not happy.

If the Crankshaft sensor wiring is not damaged as it exits the engine on the right hand side it is time to disconnect one sparkplug lead and see if there is a spark, this machine has two coils with one sparkplug on each end of the high voltage lead.

does the orange "check engine light" blink at all?

Second on the starting with throttle wide open.

There is a procedure that erases all historic fault codes from memory by using the red diagnostic connector on the left hand side under the side cover, it unclips easy once you know to lift a small tab with a small screwdriver, take your time with this.

With a small wire connect the green and the brown wire ( not the orange/white k data wire ) and follow the instructions in the description below;

Leftclick and leftclick again for full size picture ( its pretty big )

if the engine cannot be started it may need to be reset as follows;

it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.

Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.

When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.

The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.

Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.

Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) .

My polish is not very good but i hope my English works for you.

Cheers max

Max, I can offer my translation to Polish, no charge

pb

 

[SportsterDoc]

Ok popgun, I'll speak on that one,

The Hiss is working fine, you cannot get the instruments to sweep let alone start the engine if it is not happy.

If the Crankshaft sensor wiring is not damaged as it exits the engine on the right hand side it is time to disconnect one sparkplug lead and see if there is a spark, this machine has two coils with one sparkplug on each end of the high voltage lead.

does the orange "check engine light" blink at all?

Second on the starting with throttle wide open.

There is a procedure that erases all historic fault codes from memory by using the red diagnostic connector on the left hand side under the side cover, it unclips easy once you know to lift a small tab with a small screwdriver, take your time with this.

With a small wire connect the green and the brown wire ( not the orange/white k data wire ) and follow the instructions in the description below;

Leftclick and leftclick again for full size picture ( its pretty big )

if the engine cannot be started it may need to be reset as follows;

it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.

Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.

When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.

The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.

Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.

Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) .

My polish is not very good but i hope my English works for you.

Cheers max

Max, I can offer my translation to Polish, no charge

pb

And I thought he was apologizing for the polish of his bike in the photo.
Could not understand that, since it looked clean to me!

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Pivo!!


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[Retsel_imp]

So yes:
The starter spins, the fuel pump is working properly.
The presser foot sensor works properly.
The neutral position sensor also works correctly.

Does the tilt sensor need a restart? Could it be damaged?
I made a jumper, no positives.

Just curious, did you find the issue?

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