May have a problem

[the Ferret]

On today's 52-mile ride, at about the 40 mile mark I was running 45 mph and came up behind some slower traffic. I pulled the clutch in and started down shifting and the bike stalled. As a was rolling I let out the clutch and it bump started and continued running. A few miles later I came up behind a school bus and same thing, pulled in the clutch started downshifting and the bike stalled, but bump started. When I pulled into my drive it happened a 3rd time. I hit the kill switch off and on and the bike started and idled normally. I waited a half hour went out and started the bike and it idled normally.

So what do you guys think is going on?

2014 CB 1100 Deluxe 69,300 miles.

 

[The A-man]

Kill switch on the handlebar is a good thought. I'd also look at the kill switch on the side stand - perhaps gooped up with road dirt?

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Kill switch.

Had that happen on an '86 Yamaha Virago 1100, but in my case it wasn't the actual switch, but the switch circuit (wire).

Not hard to see switch gear getting soiled up.

 

[Cormanus]

I’ve had an occasional problem with the connection on a wire that connects the kill switch and the clutch occasionally. The bike won’t start with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in. It’s one of two wires around the clutch lever.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Perfect excuse to put the more historically visually appropriate '13 controls on.

Not to mention fixing the dumb horn button on the '14...

 

[dave]

Perfect excuse to put the more historically visually appropriate '13 controls on.

Not to mention fixing the dumb horn button on the '14...

If my memory is correct, I think Mr. Ferret did put the 2013 LH side switch assembly on his bike (and so did I).

 

[Cormanus]

You’re right, Dave. Indeed, I think Mr Ferret may have been first out of the blocks.

 

[the Ferret]

I did put a 13 switch on early on back in 2014, however, in 2021 I switched it back to the 2014 switch, to match the NC 750's switch layout.

 

[the Ferret]

today I played with the emergency stop switch and noticed sometimes when switching it to the run position I couldn't hear the fuel pump. I also checked the two snap connections on the clutch interlock switch and all seemed good there. Anyhow once the fuel pump cycled it would start and idle fine so I got dressed, fired it up and took it for a 24 mile test ride with lots of slowing down and down shifting, and pulling the clutch lever in and coasting at idle. Ran fine, no stalling.

I think I may have a failing r/h switch assy? Sound right to you guys?

 

[Lord Popgun]

Sounds about right. Maybe a good cleaning will take care of it. The switch. Cause we know the bike ain’t getting a cleaning!!!

 

[the Ferret]

:rofl: true, true

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Sounds about right. Maybe a good cleaning will take care of it. The switch. Cause we know the bike ain’t getting a cleaning!!!

:rofl:

 

[max]

All makes sense, guess you did not notice the fuelpump wining up during the bump start....
All the red switch does normally is switch the " run " relay and the " start " relay when the engine is started, they are both small relays under the seat.
Because of the low current draw we tend to call this a dry contact as opposed to a wet contact which carries more current and bites through corrosion a bit easier.
This diagram may help to explain what we mean;




Combination of moisture and fine dust, a bit of exercise would clear it out as you have done Ferret, i think the actual switch is separate and inside the handle from memory but i could be wrong here.
Older kill switches ( 1970's ) were more exposed but the contacts swiped by rotating the switch thus cleaning the surfaces every time they were used, modern switches don't have this cleaning effect and you are not the first case, just good observation on your part.
The fuel pump is a very good test for this switch like you mentioned.