Key Wouldn?t Turn On?

Please don’t lose that key to the wine cellar :D
 
sourdough44_imp said:
Just an update, my ‘spare’/ other key has been fine, haven’t gone back to trying the original key.

Yes, this was inserted all the way, steering already unlocked, don’t use the steering lock anyway.

It took about 5 minutes, twice, to get the key to turn, so yes, it was in fully. During those 5 minutes I tried everything I could, including the forks centered, key all the way in, etc.

I don’t think my bike or where my key has been is enough to wear the key out. I guess as keys get more detailed, anything is possible. I’ve had 4 times older vehicles where the original keys were fine.

Right now I’m gonna leave it in the freaky event category & use my other key.
sourdough44
I would certainly try graphite, it cannot hurt and is better than any oil.

Next give both keys a very careful look, side-by-side, in good light with a magnifier. If you don't see any difference - and my guess is you won't - then the key may still the problem.

Talk to your Honda dealer in order to find out whether there is more to the CB keys than just the visible shape. Some automotive keys have magnetic inserts (and other stuff) as additional theft protection. I don't see any such thing on my key, but it's not impossible. In this case one key could work, and the won't.
 
In the US we do not get the H.I.S.S so no chips in our keys. Not sure about Canada.
 
You are certainly right, but H.I.S.S. or not, could it be that the key has a magnetic component (sensed by the lock, as a protection against unauthorized copying). If the field is too weak sourdough would see exactly the intermittent problems he described. As I said, a shot in the dark, but I had a car key like this many years ago.
 
GoldOxide_imp said:
Lord Popgun_imp said:
In the US we do not get the H.I.S.S so no chips in our keys. Not sure about Canada.
10-4 LPG. Not applicable in Canada.
10-4 LPG. Not applicable in Canada.
The 2016 did not have either/Canada
 
pekingduck_imp said:
Just an open question to all about your keys. Do you have a bunch of keys on a keyring, or just one or two? I've known of car ignition switches what wore out from dangling a heavy set of keys.
pekingduck, apologies for helping to derail attempts to garner serious answers to your question. The key ring for my bike key also holds the key to my top box and a fob. I know I shouldn’t have the other things on there, but I used to find I left the top box key in the box if I didn’t have to remove it to start the bike.
 
J3, in the US, the key is a key. Any blank will do. No magnets, chips, or com devices checking with the NSA :D Just a key
 
I wonder what policy in North American, or lack thereof (which exists in parts of Europe), determined that the "HISS" feature was not a requirement?
 
GoldOxide_imp said:
I wonder what policy in North American, or lack thereof (which exists in parts of Europe), determined that the "HISS" feature was not a requirement?
No HISS - easier to steal. Thieves have something to do, police has something to do - good for the economy!

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
 
Lord Popgun_imp said:
J3, in the US, the key is a key. Any blank will do. No magnets, chips, or com devices checking with the NSA :D Just a key
Given the incredible number of people working for the NSA, no department knowing what “the other hand” is doing, and the amount of money deployed each year ... there can only be simple keys if there is sth else much more efficient to monitor. You brave, tax-paying citizens must be so happy knowing where all your money goes, with H.I.S.S. or many hisses.
 
tod.branko_imp said:
GoldOxide_imp said:
I wonder what policy in North American, or lack thereof (which exists in parts of Europe), determined that the "HISS" feature was not a requirement?
No HISS - easier to steal. Thieves have something to do, police has something to do - good for the economy!

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
No HISS - easier to steal. Thieves have something to do, police has something to do - good for the economy!

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
... you forgot the insurance companies too. :-/

In a way, the logic is not flawed. :dodgy:
 
Just something on locks, my front door lock became harder to operate and it's good quality, took the cylinder out ( with the key in it to prevent losing the slides ) and despite lubricating it regularly it was dry in most places.
So i shined up the surfaces of the barrel, applied gearoil liberally and re-instated the lock, it works very smooth now and the extra benefit is the key will wear less because of the lack of friction on the cams, i have no experience with graphite but the lubricant must be in all the working area's of the mechanism and in my case more was better.
Much overlooked these locks, same applies to all my vehicles.:exclamation:
 
max_imp said:
Just something on locks, my front door lock became harder to operate and it's good quality, took the cylinder out ( with the key in it to prevent losing the slides ) and despite lubricating it regularly it was dry in most places.
So i shined up the surfaces of the barrel, applied gearoil liberally and re-instated the lock, it works very smooth now and the extra benefit is the key will wear less because of the lack of friction on the cams, i have no experience with graphite but the lubricant must be in all the working area's of the mechanism and in my case more was better.
Much overlooked these locks, same applies to all my vehicles.:exclamation:
I know a lot do but I have always been told never to oil a lock because in time with dust and grime it makes the levers stick so I've always used graphite which I blow in on a piece of V shaped paper and put some on the key as well. If someone has oiled it before the graphite would cause more problems so I only use it on a dry lock.

Re the oil method.. Years ago at a workplace the front outside gate had many keyholders and was used many times daily and was oiled almost on a weekly basis because of the weather and stiffness but still had to be replaced regular due to failure to unlock.
The main complaint about the lock was oil coming out on the key and into peoples pockets/bags etc.
Do you find gear oil comes out on the key ?
 
GoldOxide_imp said:
I wonder what policy in North American, or lack thereof (which exists in parts of Europe), determined that the "HISS" feature was not a requirement?
The additional expense and complexity of H.I.S.S. isn't something American Honda wanted. Not just the initial cost it would add to the bike, but also warranty outlay. It came on the Rune only here, and was real pain for some customers and dealers.

Motorcycle theft in the US is not the same as in the rest of the world. Here we have more vans and pickup trucks, and a surprising amount of completely unlocked bikes ready to be just rolled away. H.I.S.S. wouldn't have helped us.
 
[/QUOTE]
Re the oil method.. Years ago at a workplace the front outside gate had many keyholders and was used many times daily and was oiled almost on a weekly basis because of the weather and stiffness but still had to be replaced regular due to failure to unlock.
The main complaint about the lock was oil coming out on the key and into peoples pockets/bags etc.
Do you find gear oil comes out on the key ?
[/QUOTE]

Mixagon thanks for your reply, i appreciate it when i get the opportunity to learn something new.
Guess it depends on the situation and i have heard of the graphite method, just never got to use it.

In the case of my lock i lubricated all moving parts when the lock barrel was out of the housing, i have not experienced any appreciable oil on the key, i think the oil is still clinging to the internal bits without the tendency to leak onto the key.

The vehicle locks are lubricated with a spray can through a straw to get at the back of the action, the diluted lube spreads out, the dilution evaporates and just enough stays in the lock until the next application, no bad experiences sofar.

All i can do is convey what i have experienced to the best recollection but there are usually better ways out there and it's a good thing to have someone else's experience to put into the mix, cheers.
 
Re the oil method.. Years ago at a workplace the front outside gate had many keyholders and was used many times daily and was oiled almost on a weekly basis because of the weather and stiffness but still had to be replaced regular due to failure to unlock.
The main complaint about the lock was oil coming out on the key and into peoples pockets/bags etc.
Do you find gear oil comes out on the key ?
[/QUOTE]

Mixagon thanks for your reply, i appreciate it when i get the opportunity to learn something new.
Guess it depends on the situation and i have heard of the graphite method, just never got to use it.

In the case of my lock i lubricated all moving parts when the lock barrel was out of the housing, i have not experienced any appreciable oil on the key, i think the oil is still clinging to the internal bits without the tendency to leak onto the key.

The vehicle locks are lubricated with a spray can through a straw to get at the back of the action, the diluted lube spreads out, the dilution evaporates and just enough stays in the lock until the next application, no bad experiences sofar.

All i can do is convey what i have experienced to the best recollection but there are usually better ways out there and it's a good thing to have someone else's experience to put into the mix, cheers.
[/QUOTE]
Sounds good to me.

In most parts of Canada during winter, locks need this approach to lubrication, otherwise it will just ice and freeze up solid. That's when the flame-thrower comes out.
 
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