Thread starter
Can anybody tell me how to remove the needles from the instruments so I can fully open the inside of the panel?
Instrument Cluster Needles
- Thread starter Cormanus
- Start date
Randy B
Road warrior
Randy B said:
I could have used one of those a number of years ago. The needle on my KLR650 warped at the tip and curved to the speedo surface--to such a degree that it no longer moved because it was making contact. I couldn't figure out how to get it off to see about a replacement, so I just cut the last 3/4" off.
peterbaron
Road warrior
Thread starter
You're a wonderful lot. Thanks for the help.
I wimped out in the end. With my ham-fistedness, there's at least an even chance that the operation would end in tears, and I was spooked by the recent discussion elsewhere on the forum about the rarity and awful cost of new instrument clusters. As I was able to find another way through, I decided not to take the risk.
The back story? Riding along the other day, I looked down and saw an ant on the instrument cluster. No, actually that wasn't right. It, and a good few of its mates, were IN the instrument cluster. I'm pretty sure they haven't been there long and I had parked the bike for a day with the left mirror touching a shrub at a house where the owners had been having trouble with ants. I kept an eye on it while I was away and one time at lest thought they'd gone. But, no, they were hiding. So, when I got home, I pulled the back off the instrument cover and found ...
Most of the cluster was easy to clean, but I couldn't get the circuit board off the panel without removing the needles. In the end, I loosened it enough to get a compressed air needle valve in and gave it a good blow out. I then left it sitting next to a bait (thanks rdprdp01) until I was satisfied there were no more ants in there.
I was very relieved when I reinstalled it, turned on the ignition and the neeedles swept normally around the dials.
I'd still like to know when they got in there. I've been on the bike a lot these past days and I didn't see them until 7 or eight days into it.
I wimped out in the end. With my ham-fistedness, there's at least an even chance that the operation would end in tears, and I was spooked by the recent discussion elsewhere on the forum about the rarity and awful cost of new instrument clusters. As I was able to find another way through, I decided not to take the risk.
The back story? Riding along the other day, I looked down and saw an ant on the instrument cluster. No, actually that wasn't right. It, and a good few of its mates, were IN the instrument cluster. I'm pretty sure they haven't been there long and I had parked the bike for a day with the left mirror touching a shrub at a house where the owners had been having trouble with ants. I kept an eye on it while I was away and one time at lest thought they'd gone. But, no, they were hiding. So, when I got home, I pulled the back off the instrument cover and found ...
Most of the cluster was easy to clean, but I couldn't get the circuit board off the panel without removing the needles. In the end, I loosened it enough to get a compressed air needle valve in and gave it a good blow out. I then left it sitting next to a bait (thanks rdprdp01) until I was satisfied there were no more ants in there.
I was very relieved when I reinstalled it, turned on the ignition and the neeedles swept normally around the dials.
I'd still like to know when they got in there. I've been on the bike a lot these past days and I didn't see them until 7 or eight days into it.
I've heard of "ants in your pants" but in your harness, in your cluster? Just doesn't have the same ring to it.
Gone in 60
Road warrior
Wow, that is very unusual! Never saw anything like that.
1973cb750
Been there
pulling the gauges appart is a chore how or where where they getting in at? i had a mouse in my bike the other week he ate my charge cable ! got him with a trap same day
also i have repaired quite a few honda gauges and done smd led swaps where you have to de solder and solder new leds in cbr's and other bikes the needles arent bad to remove i typically use two spoons and equally press the needle out the trick when re installing them is to return them to the 0 position by turning them to the click spot and making the needle at 0
1973cb750 said:
also i have repaired quite a few honda gauges and done smd led swaps where you have to de solder and solder new leds in cbr's and other bikes the needles arent bad to remove i typically use two spoons and equally press the needle out the trick when re installing them is to return them to the 0 position by turning them to the click spot and making the needle at 0
1973cb750 said:
[/QUOTE]
This little tidbit could be invaluable for someone. Had it been me, I would likely have forced the needle on at whatever position, expecting it to automatically reset to zero.
I can't count the number of times I read something like the above--on this forum and others--where someone casually mentions a tip, and then at some point I come across the very thing that was mentioned.
1973cb750
Been there
pekingduck
Road warrior
When I work on mechanical tachs or speedos, I pull the tip of the needle over the resting stop peg and the needle will settle into a "negative" area. I then mark the spot with tape, or take a photo, so I can replace it to the proper spot before winding it up and putting it back over the peg stop. These gauges use spinning magnets, and a fine wire spring to dampen the motion, and the preload is necessary.
1973cb750
Been there
these dont have the stops most newer dont
Thread starter
pekingduck, could you clarify that, please? The only stops in the gauges on my bike are at maximum revs and speed. What are you marking? If it's pushing back against the stop, isn't that where you put it when you replace it? Or does a spring unwind, when you take the needle off?
Happily, the ants are gone, I didn't remove the needles and the gauges work ok. Your play makes me very pleased I didn't remove them!
Happily, the ants are gone, I didn't remove the needles and the gauges work ok. Your play makes me very pleased I didn't remove them!
pekingduck
Road warrior
Cormanus said:
That was for older mechanical tachs or speedos, and some newer electronic ones that have the stops at zero. There's a little "preload" on the internal spring that returns the needle at zero at rest. Does not apply to CB1100s.
Thread starter
Thank you.
