Injectors syncro/balance

TheLegend

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Hi guys, does anyone knows how the syncro/balance of the injectors can be made to a 2017 RS NA? The place on the injectors where the adjustment screws has to be is sealed with a ferm metal cap. Is sealed only for European models because of the EURO norms reasons and without being able to increase the fuel flow, or... all models are the same(sealed cap) with no possibility of syncro/tuning/balancing?
 
TheLegend said:
Hi guys, does anyone knows how the syncro/balance of the injectors can be made to a 2017 RS NA? The place on the injectors where the adjustment screws has to be is sealed with a ferm metal cap. Is sealed only for European models because of the EURO norms reasons and without being able to increase the fuel flow, or... all models are the same(sealed cap) with no possibility of syncro/tuning/balancing?

Not sure exactly what is meant by the sealed caps.  The throttle body assembly is actually 2 twin-throat assemblies.  There is no adjustment between the throttle bodies of 1 & 2, nor between 3 & 4, but there is adjustment between the left and right pairs.  However, it is not a necessary adjustment unless it has been disassembled - you're more likely to do harm than good. Any tuning would be done through a Power Commander or equivalent.
 
Thread starter
pekingduck said:
TheLegend said:
Hi guys, does anyone knows how the syncro/balance of the injectors can be made to a 2017 RS NA? The place on the injectors where the adjustment screws has to be is sealed with a ferm metal cap. Is sealed only for European models because of the EURO norms reasons and without being able to increase the fuel flow, or... all models are the same(sealed cap) with no possibility of syncro/tuning/balancing?

Not sure exactly what is meant by the sealed caps.  The throttle body assembly is actually 2 twin-throat assemblies.  There is no adjustment between the throttle bodies of 1 & 2, nor between 3 & 4, but there is adjustment between the left and right pairs.  However, it is not a necessary adjustment unless it has been disassembled - you're more likely to do harm than good. Any tuning would be done through a Power Commander or equivalent.
There were disassembled for cleaning and syncro/balance purposes; the mechanic says that the tunning screws are capsulated(thank god) and finds(when disassembly) the injectors band/colliers very loose(don't know why); now, after cleaning injectors and fuel pump + tightening the injector colliers, the engine is running a little better, more responding, more "clean and round", but the vibrations... the same. I'm still struggling to do everything possible to eliminate that vibrations. :(
As talking about Power Commander 6, as I understand this box isn't a simple plug & play device, it needs to be tuned/calibrated by a specialist so, another costs(not small)? Thank you for your answers!


m in sc said:
you running 4 wideband sensors or something?
nope. I don't even know what those are!?
 
TheLegend said:
There were disassembled for cleaning and syncro/balance purposes; the mechanic says that the tunning screws are capsulated(thank god) and finds(when disassembly) the injectors band/colliers very loose(don't know why); now, after cleaning injectors and fuel pump + tightening the injector colliers, the engine is running a little better, more responding, more "clean and round", but the vibrations... the same. I'm still struggling to do everything possible to eliminate that vibrations. :(
As talking about Power Commander 6, as I understand this box isn't a simple plug & play device, it needs to be tuned/calibrated by a specialist so, another costs(not small)? Thank you for your answers!


If your complaint is vibration, specifically high-frequency vibration, that is the nature of inline 4 cylinder engines - they all buzz.  If you search the archives for vibration, you may find plenty of threads on the subject.

High-frequency vibration affects some people (like me) more than others.  For some, it isn't even noticeable.  Even with the counterbalancer, it can't be rid of.  There is a premise that the designers introduced some lumpiness in the idle for "character", by mis-timing one set of intake cam lobes, but that may or may not affect the vibration.

 
Thread starter
m in sc said:
those screws should not have been touched . they can be calibrated on a flow bench for injectors by somebody that knows what they are doing, or on the bike, with 4 afr gauges (wideband) on a dyno for a race tune. he 'found' them that way? highly, highly unlikely.  they are factory set and thats it. he did something he shouldn't have. plain and simple.

He didn't, because they where capsulated :thumbsup: . Although he is an experienced mechanic so, Is not a rookie
 
Thread starter
m in sc said:
good. tell him to leave them alone. like said.. how's he going to tune them or adjust them w out the correct equipment?  you don't just do it by ear. does have have a flow bench? if he's trying to eliminate a 'vibration' how is he determining which one is out of sync? hence the '4 afr' comment? 

being experienced and knowledgeable also would tell him to leave it alone.  Being experienced doesn't guarantee its been good experience. some people do things poorly for decades.

If he has to mess w them, tell him to get them cleaned, flow tested and put them back in. thats it.
That's exactly what he did: clean and put them back; he tried to help me and eliminate the simplest causes(dirt+syncro) because the engine runs a little stumbled too and yes they had dyno stand and etc, they have been dealers for 30 yrs for Kawa&Yamaha, they know what they do but for this RS they don't have the right soft and know-how; maybe my english isn't so good and I don't know how to expres myself technically good enough so, don't be so cruel. Thank you!
 
Thread starter
m in sc said:
Again, that means nothing as far as how long they've been in business.. but as long as you're happy w them thats all that matters.  these bikes arent supposed to be razor smooth, that wasnt the point of them.  But alls well that ends well, at least they didnt get in there and start messing w them any further.
"m in sc: these bikes arent supposed to be razor smooth, that wasnt the point of them" I do not agree with you at all, till recently Honda was recognized as being the most reliable, super smooth as a Swiss clock, that's one of the main reasons why we buy Honda. Regarding the strong/abnormal engine vibrations: this is not a particularity to be proud of, or to take it as it is because that's how this moto are build for; on the contrary, vibrations like that means an unbalanced movement(due to a cause) that is not only unpleasant to be ridden but sooner or later will certainly lead to a damaged engine. 
I came here for real help, advices and suport so, don't shoot the pianist!  
 
i am not familiar with your original post or the edited version. I just saw this post. Here is what I do know:

You are angry and feel wronged.

You have been a member of the Forum for years.

I and other Forum Members have enjoyed your many posts.

It appears the same is true for you.

I believe our Moderators do an outstanding job.

I suspect that this incident is a misunderstanding that we can resolve with an actual dialogue.

I will send you my cell number in a private message. If you are so inclined, I would like to actually talk to you.

Let’s see if we can sort this out.

I will be available in 30 minutes.

David
 
I edited your post, m in sc. Here's why.

If you read the code of conduct you will see the sentence, "We encourage everyone to share their insights and opinions in Threads and Posts, but we must always do so respectfully."

Your posts in response to TheLegend's request for help have been, in my view, strongly enough worded to verge on the belligerent. I'm familiar with your style which I occasionally find terse to the point of rudeness, particularly when you know something others don't, so I cut you some slack. However, in this post the TheLegend (who is just asking for help) was sufficiently upset by your tone to ask you to note that English was not his first language and not to "... be so cruel."

When, this morning you responded to his most recent post with a remark to the effect that he shouldn't post here before he'd taken the time to learn more about the bike. My call, in light of what has already happened on this thread, was that this was unnecessary, gratuitous and disrespectful. I deleted the offending sentence.

Just to be clear, it has long been the practice on this forum for moderators to edit or delete posts they feel are not in keeping with the standards the two forum owners have set. In the heyday of the older forum, it happened quite often. Given the current forum is smaller and is mostly comprised of people who have been around for a while, it hasn't until now been necessary to edit a post, but if I feel a post is outside the rules of the place, I'll edit or delete it.

If you can't accept this, I'd encourage you to take it up with rdprdp01 who pays for this place. If his view is different to mine, I will, of course accept it.
 
M in SC, we wish you the very best as you exit the CB1100 Community Forum.

The Forum’s Code of Conduct remains the basis for guiding all interaction on the Forum.

David
 
Thread starter
I am in an unpleasant situation with my RS (vibrations being just one), which I have not yet found out how to fix, hence all my insistence and frustration which may have irritated or tired some, I apologize! 
I came to this forum to find support and learn new things from older RS owners with mechanical expertise, but in no way to be patronized by free omnipotence. I do not think that is the purpose of the forum. BTW: You never know when you will need help! 
I would like to congratulate and thank the moderators for ensuring that the quality of the dialogue remain balanced, as between gentlemen at a standard of mutual empathy and not letting various frustrations derail the dialogue.
 
TheLegend said:
I am in an unpleasant situation with my RS (vibrations being just one), which I have not yet found out how to fix, hence all my insistence and frustration which may have irritated or tired some, I apologize! 
I came to this forum to find support and learn new things from older RS owners with mechanical expertise, but in no way to be patronized by free omnipotence. I do not think that is the purpose of the forum. BTW: You never know when you will need help! 
I would like to congratulate and thank the moderators for ensuring that the quality of the dialogue is balanced, as between gentlemen at a standard of mutual empathy and not letting various frustrations derail the dialogue.

TheLegend, the CB1100 Community Forum was created to provide a medium for the kind of interaction you set in motion with the Injectors synchro/balance Thread. I am confident the Forum Members will in time be able to assist you resolve the problems you documented in your Thread.

I strongly encourage you and all Forum Members to use Our Forum to help one another, share insights, celebrate moments, form lasting relationships, and preserve the legacy of the CB1100.

Please see Forum Vision Statement for more details.

Please remain active and keep posting!

Have a great day. David
 
Good evening. I remember reading about how some members used a technique to reset throttle position sensors to address some of the same issues TheLegend has cited. See below:

“Turn the bike on, do not start it. Twist the throttle on full, roll off full, do it twice. Turn off bike, turn back on and start. Go for a ride and see if it works.”

Some Forum Members believe this process enables the ECU to properly manage things once the sensors were able to properly identify no throttle and full throttle positions.

The entire post can be found at the following link:

Throttle Position Sensor Reset

Does this have any relevance for the CB1100RS which TheLegend owns? David
 
Thread starter
rdprdp01 said:
Good evening. I remember reading about how some members used a technique to reset throttle position sensors to address some of the same issues TheLegend has cited. See below:

“Turn the bike on, do not start it. Twist the throttle on full, roll off full, do it twice. Turn off bike, turn back on and start. Go for a ride and see if it works.”

Some Forum Members believe this process enables the ECU to properly manage things once the sensors were able to properly identify no throttle and full throttle positions.

The entire post can be found at the following link:

Throttle Position Sensor Reset

Does this have any relevance for the CB1100RS which TheLegend owns? David
Interesting tip, I'll try it for sure. thank you Dave!
 
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