I was just thinking. Years ago (maybe 40), a friend of mine was repairing circuit boards for computers. He did this for the college campus computers because they were broken, nobody else knew how to fix them, and they were going to be trashed anyway. Now this friend is extra-ordinary when it comes to things like this, but maybe it's possible to find someone to repair an ECU today? I understand circuit boards have become much more compact and miniaturized, so maybe this is not even feasible today. Any thoughts?
I screwed up big time....
- Thread starter PowerDubs_imp
- Start date
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
Yes- most things are tiny and on-board- completely different than a few decades ago.
And these are also sealed 'non-serviceable' units.
And these are also sealed 'non-serviceable' units.
pekingduck
Road warrior
There will be more bikes that are crashed and become parts bikes than there are failures of electronic ignitions or ABS modules or other essential parts.Dave_imp said:
That's why a forum like this is so valuable. When there's a need, someone will have it, or know who can make it, or know a work-around.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
If one can determine the functional requirements of the ECU, it is not unrealistic for somebody to build an emulator - say maybe using an RTOS on a Raspberry Pi Zero (if that meets specs) - and program it appropriately.Dave_imp said:
Think of it as a heart transplant with a machine version.
I think the hard part is getting the ECU requirements. This is the Honda proprietary sauce. This is not just the parameters, but the functional algorithmic units too. Once that is known, emulation is a re-engineering exercise.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
I'd rather a fried ECU than a melted undetectable area of the bikes wiring harness.
Still super po'd at myself.
Still super po'd at myself.
Tev62
Road warrior
This crowd have helped out a lot of 1990's era Triumph T300 series bike owners.
https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1188&language=en
https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1188&language=en
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
So the case on the power commander and autotune box both pop open easy enough- but both sealed solid construction inside.
No sign of heat, bubbling, smoke or anything on either one.
Since my garage computer can see the power commander when I plug into it- and gives no errors- I’m guessing it and maybe even the auto tune box are ok.
So- I need to figure out where the smoke and sizzle in the battery area came from.
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No sign of heat, bubbling, smoke or anything on either one.
Since my garage computer can see the power commander when I plug into it- and gives no errors- I’m guessing it and maybe even the auto tune box are ok.
So- I need to figure out where the smoke and sizzle in the battery area came from.
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Houtman_imp
Road warrior
PowerDubs : WE are supposed to do things like that , NOT a smart person like YOU !
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Looks like a good thing PD.
Maybe you won't have to donate your ECU "to science".
Maybe you won't have to donate your ECU "to science".
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
Can't for the life of me find anything that seems discolored, melted, signs of heat, etc- all fuses good, diode tests good on meter, swapped relay positions in the fuse box.
I guess I wait for the new ECU to show up.
In the mean time if anyone has any suggestions...I'm all ears.
I guess I wait for the new ECU to show up.
In the mean time if anyone has any suggestions...I'm all ears.
On the basis that there is no stupid question, is the battery all right?
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
I’m annoyed so I just bought a complete main wiring harness.
Probably won’t need it, not looking forward to installing it, but just in case!
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Cranks fine. Dash looks normal- just no putput.
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Also going to go back to my roots- something I haven’t done in many many years… but used to be commonplace in my youth- bought a can of starting fluid.
That will narrow down whether it is a spark or fuel issue without having to mess with the spark plugs.
I’m guessing it’s fuel- but anything’s possible.
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Probably won’t need it, not looking forward to installing it, but just in case!
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Cormanus_imp said:
Cranks fine. Dash looks normal- just no putput.
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Also going to go back to my roots- something I haven’t done in many many years… but used to be commonplace in my youth- bought a can of starting fluid.
That will narrow down whether it is a spark or fuel issue without having to mess with the spark plugs.
I’m guessing it’s fuel- but anything’s possible.
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jtopiso_imp
Been there
Just stating the obvious, but just in case:
Can you hear the fuelpump?
Can you try an OBD code reader?
Can you hear the fuelpump?
Can you try an OBD code reader?
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
I've never paid enough attention when the bike was working to know what the fuel pump sounds like.
Even with the tank off - there is a few seconds of buzz when the ign is turned on. Sounds normal either way to my deaf ears.
Even with the tank off - there is a few seconds of buzz when the ign is turned on. Sounds normal either way to my deaf ears.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
Got a chance to get down to the garage with some starter fluid- a quick spray in the airbox and the bike fired right up and idled for 5-6 seconds.
So we know the ignition is fine- and it's fuel related. Which is what I was expecting since it was the autotune box I reverse polarized.
Of course the ECU does fuel as well as spark- so we aren't out of the woods yet- but I'm guessing a melted wire in the harness. Fingers crossed.
Good thing I have this arriving on Saturday-
So we know the ignition is fine- and it's fuel related. Which is what I was expecting since it was the autotune box I reverse polarized.
Of course the ECU does fuel as well as spark- so we aren't out of the woods yet- but I'm guessing a melted wire in the harness. Fingers crossed.
Good thing I have this arriving on Saturday-
Fingers crossed indeed, although the prospect of dealing with that harness would not fill me with enthusiasm at all.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
Not difficult- just time consuming.
But I'll unwrap the existing harness and find the fault first. Again- just time at this point.
But I'll unwrap the existing harness and find the fault first. Again- just time at this point.
max
Road warrior
Dubs you may have already checked this but do you have 12 volts on all four black/white wires on the fuel injectors?
They are fed from the +12 volt " fuel cut" relay.
just unclip one and check for 12 volts on the black/white wire with ignition and killswitch on.
They get pulled to ground by the ecu and have back-emf diode protection in the ecu circuit across the transistors/fet's.
If the ignition switch was off the ecu had no power and was only connected to ground and the controlling injector circuits should not be damaged because they were not activated.
Good job with the starter fluid, divides the problem in two parts right there, golden.
Do you have a circuit diagram to work things out?
They are fed from the +12 volt " fuel cut" relay.
just unclip one and check for 12 volts on the black/white wire with ignition and killswitch on.
They get pulled to ground by the ecu and have back-emf diode protection in the ecu circuit across the transistors/fet's.
If the ignition switch was off the ecu had no power and was only connected to ground and the controlling injector circuits should not be damaged because they were not activated.
Good job with the starter fluid, divides the problem in two parts right there, golden.
Do you have a circuit diagram to work things out?
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Thread starter
I have the factory shop manual and it has wiring diagrams- but I’m not an electrical guy- I’m just a
I can certainly do basics like check the 12v you suggested- check fuses, continuity, etc- but the advanced stuff is mumbo jumbo to me.
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I can certainly do basics like check the 12v you suggested- check fuses, continuity, etc- but the advanced stuff is mumbo jumbo to me.
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jtopiso_imp
Been there
I'd start checking if voltage arrives at the fuel pump with/without the killswitch (or just have someone listen: contact on and kill switch on/off and you can hear the fuelpump working for a second when you swith to "on").
I wouldn't be surprised if there is extra protecction not to allow a melting wire inside the fuel tank, so I'd check that circuit first.
The harness shouldn't be the weakest point on any installation: no matter what you connect it to. Fuses (or some components acting as fuses) are there to prevent wires to get too hot and avoid fires. So I don't think you'll find a melted wire. But I've been wrong before...
I wouldn't be surprised if there is extra protecction not to allow a melting wire inside the fuel tank, so I'd check that circuit first.
The harness shouldn't be the weakest point on any installation: no matter what you connect it to. Fuses (or some components acting as fuses) are there to prevent wires to get too hot and avoid fires. So I don't think you'll find a melted wire. But I've been wrong before...
