I screwed up big time....

[PowerDubs_imp]

...and it was very easy to do.


I was putting my battery back in my bike today- and above the battery is where I have the power commander and autotune as well as a USB from the PCV to the side of the frame and a Battery tender charge cable- so both are accessible from the side of the bike to plug in so I do not need to remove the seat every time I want to read/write autotune files or plug the charger into the bike.

Reason I am telling you that- is I have a lot of cables in the area where the battery goes. The Battery Tender cable is black and the positive end has a red part right at the O-ring connector.

I have the autotune hooked positive into my switched tail light- and used the included O-ring connector that came with the autotune kit to connect the negative to the battery.





Notice the included O-ring has a red end.

Unfortunately today when putting my battery back in the bike- I grabbed the black cable with red end that is the Battery Tender wire- AND the black cable with red end to the auto tune box and put them on my + battery terminal- not realizing my mistake, so I put + to the negative of the autotune box.

As I was tightening the screw- I heard sizzling and then see / smell smoke. Arrgh!

I figured I fried the autotune box- so I uninstalled it- then plugged the PCV into my computer and turned off the autotune option. But the bike won't start, won't even fire a put put- just cranks.

SO- I disconnected the PCV harness and tried again- still won't start.

Could this have fried my ECU? The PCV shows no errors on the software- but the case has a smell. I'm not sure if I should try to pry open the Autotune and PCV to check for burn marks.

 

[Houtman_imp]

Sorry to hear about this " frything " experience , hopefully it will not be to costly to "rectify "

 

[Lord Popgun]

A quick thought. Did you check the 20a fuse for the fuel pump?

 

[mvk24_imp]

The ECU is also easy enough to check visually.

It sits right under the tank on top of everything else.

You could lift the rear of the gas tank up and disconnect the fuel line to raise it high enough to inspect your ECU and see if it is also burned since its just in a plastic housing.

I only remember this because my ECU has the Guhls Sticker on it now and I noticed that when I removed my tank to run some Auxillary wires.

My worry would be the ECU since not only expensive but no option to flash it again like you have now. The PCV is costly also but at least its readily available

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

A quick thought. Did you check the 20a fuse for the fuel pump?

Manual shows one- but the bike doesn’t-

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[mvk24_imp]

A quick thought. Did you check the 20a fuse for the fuel pump?

Manual shows one- but the bike doesn’t-

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Manual shows one- but the bike doesn’t-

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I might be wrong but I think I remember there being a fuse/relay or 2 elsewhere down by the relays and rectifier under the side covers of the bike.

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

The ECU is also easy enough to check visually.

It sits right under the tank on top of everything else.

You could lift the rear of the gas tank up and disconnect the fuel line to raise it high enough to inspect your ECU and see if it is also burned since its just in a plastic housing.

I only remember this because my ECU has the Guhls Sticker on it now and I noticed that when I removed my tank to run some Auxillary wires.

My worry would be the ECU since not only expensive but no option to flash it again like you have now. The PCV is costly also but at least its readily available

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

You could easily damage any of these electronic boxes internally and see nothing on the outside.

And that is the case here none of the three electronic units the ECU, the power commander, or the auto tune box externally show any damage.

But I definitely heard sizzling and smoke in the battery area where the power commander and autotune box were.

But they are both now removed and the bike will still not start.


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Found it- under a little black cover. Would be nice if it actually said or show that in the manual.

I swear older manuals did a better job than modern manuals do both on cars and bikes.

Alas the 20 amp fuse is just fine. My guess is the ECU is fried at this point since I’ve already ruled out the auto tune box and the power commander.

Just find it amazing that hooking up the negative to positive on the auto tune box past power back through the power commander and then up into the ECU.


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So- just bit the bullet and bought a new ECU.

The part # in my bike is 38770-MGC-A42

I found a good deal on a NEW one with the same part #.

The parts breakdown for our bike shows the ECU has now changed to part # 38770-MGC-A43

I wonder what changed.

So- I will swap in a new ECU and see if the bike starts. If it does- well, at least the bike will run. If it doesn't- I don't know what to do next.

 

[Cormanus]

Bummer, PowerDubs. If it's that easy for someone capable to do, what about us incapable lot? I hope you sort it.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Yea- I'm bummed. And yea- I said to my wife- all the complicated stuff I do- and something so simple bites me. Dumb mistake.

I'm OK with buying a new Power Commander or Autotune box if need be- but will hate to loose the Guhl ECU.

I wonder if he can 'clone' a new one since I bought it already- technically he isn't tuning or selling me anything new- he would be supporting an existing old customer.

 

[mvk24_imp]

Yea- I'm bummed. And yea- I said to my wife- all the complicated stuff I do- and something so simple bites me. Dumb mistake.

I'm OK with buying a new Power Commander or Autotune box if need be- but will hate to loose the Guhl ECU.

I wonder if he can 'clone' a new one since I bought it already- technically he isn't tuning or selling me anything new- he would be supporting an existing old customer.

That would be awesome if he can.

And my apologies dubs, I was assuming whichever box smoked may show melted plastic of the housing since they're so small to begin with.

I hope you sort it out!

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[Cormanus]

It's always the way, isn't it? You worry about the complex and overlook the simple. Particularly if you're a bit tired.

The ECU cloning is a very interesting thought indeed ...

it makes me wonder whether he can still reflash ECUs for overseas customers.

 

[mvk24_imp]

It's always the way, isn't it? You worry about the complex and overlook the simple. Particularly if you're a bit tired.

The ECU cloning is a very interesting thought indeed ...

it makes me wonder whether he can still reflash ECUs for overseas customers.

We had discussed that Honda data cable somewhere on here not that long ago and I think I actually tagged Dubs as my vote for the new tuner lol

I wonder if that same data cable can be used to clone his old ECU onto the new one?

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[Cormanus]

Possibly, although it's hard to see how you could clone a fried ECU. :huh:

 

[mvk24_imp]

Possibly, although it's hard to see how you could clone a fried ECU. :huh:

That is 100% not my area of knowledge or expertise. Just throwing out the idea and letting you smarter guys figure out if it would work lol

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Possibly, although it's hard to see how you could clone a fried ECU. :huh:

Depends on what fried. And the reason I put ‘clone’ instead of clone is because he could always say it is warranty and push the file from his records. If he wanted to…


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[Cormanus]

Yes, I think I understood that. I was responding to mvk24's idea that you could use the data cable on the bike.

 

[jtopiso_imp]

Possibly, although it's hard to see how you could clone a fried ECU. :huh:

Depends on what fried. And the reason I put ‘clone’ instead of clone is because he could always say it is warranty and push the file from his records. If he wanted to…


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It's very likely that just a diode. One that took the hit for the team...

 

[KiowaEagle_imp]

That's a bummer PD but do yourself a favor and label those cables right now. The last thing you want is for it to happen again.

 

[dave]

Hello PowerDubs, I am so sorry this happened: I know how expensive this will be. Your situation, and a situation I am experiencing now, has prompted me to ask the following question to the forum: I am having difficulty finding OEM parts for my 20 year old Honda VFR800 right now - simple parts like a mirror, plastic, and believe it or not, mounting bolts to attach the mirror (yes, one official Honda distributor listed these common bolts as unavailable). What is a person to do when an uncommon part, such as the ECU or any other electronic sensor or control breaks and an OEM part is no longer available? After market manufacturers don't supply most of the electronic components our modern bikes use, and I don't expect to find many CB1100 parts through wrecking yards. So, if an ECU fails on a CB1100 in 8 or 10 years from now, and Honda says "So sorry, part is no longer available", do we just park our bike in the back of the garage and forget it, or advertise it on Craig's List?

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Yea- older vehicles often rely on searching Ebay (often globally) and hoping to find a used part.

That is why unless you are willing to take that risk- it is best to either stick to newer vehicles or choose a very common mass produced one.