How to tell if has ABS

[axolotl_imp]

Nope. Speedo takes reading from rear wheel ring. No rear-only ABS - I've locked the rear a few times.

Well then I guess I'm screwed, cause I payed $10,999 for the bike (after two different salesman confirmed it had ABS), and also because I'm "X% more likely" or something to have a collision.

I've been riding on and off for 30 years or so and have rarely or never locked a rear wheel on pavement, leave alone collided with anything. But there's a first time for everything, especially with creeping age...and besides, most of the other bikes I've owned when they were my only transportation so got used to using mostly my right hand to brake; but now that I also own a car (actually a van) my foot will by habit be heavy on the bike.

Headed to the dealer Monday, but I doubt they'll write me a check for $1k. Maybe they'll give me a merchandise or service credit, if anything.

 

[rjk555_imp]

Nope. Speedo takes reading from rear wheel ring. No rear-only ABS - I've locked the rear a few times.

Well then I guess I'm screwed, cause I payed $10,999 for the bike (after two different salesman confirmed it had ABS), and also because I'm "X% more likely" or something to have a collision.

I've been riding on and off for 30 years or so and have rarely or never locked a rear wheel on pavement, leave alone collided with anything. But there's a first time for everything, especially with creeping age...and besides, most of the other bikes I've owned when they were my only transportation so got used to using mostly my right hand to brake; but now that I also own a car (actually a van) my foot will by habit be heavy on the bike.

Headed to the dealer Monday, but I doubt they'll write me a check for $1k. Maybe they'll give me a merchandise or service credit, if anything.

Well then I guess I'm screwed, cause I payed $10,999 for the bike (after two different salesman confirmed it had ABS), and also because I'm "X% more likely" or something to have a collision.

I've been riding on and off for 30 years or so and have rarely or never locked a rear wheel on pavement, leave alone collided with anything. But there's a first time for everything, especially with creeping age...and besides, most of the other bikes I've owned when they were my only transportation so got used to using mostly my right hand to brake; but now that I also own a car (actually a van) my foot will by habit be heavy on the bike.

Headed to the dealer Monday, but I doubt they'll write me a check for $1k. Maybe they'll give me a merchandise or service credit, if anything.
I can't tell which state you live in. But one option may be to go to small claims court and seek the $1000 on a fraud action.

 

[axolotl_imp]

Nope. Speedo takes reading from rear wheel ring. No rear-only ABS - I've locked the rear a few times.

Well then I guess I'm screwed, cause I payed $10,999 for the bike (after two different salesman confirmed it had ABS), and also because I'm "X% more likely" or something to have a collision.

I've been riding on and off for 30 years or so and have rarely or never locked a rear wheel on pavement, leave alone collided with anything. But there's a first time for everything, especially with creeping age...and besides, most of the other bikes I've owned when they were my only transportation so got used to using mostly my right hand to brake; but now that I also own a car (actually a van) my foot will by habit be heavy on the bike.

Headed to the dealer Monday, but I doubt they'll write me a check for $1k. Maybe they'll give me a merchandise or service credit, if anything.

Well then I guess I'm screwed, cause I payed $10,999 for the bike (after two different salesman confirmed it had ABS), and also because I'm "X% more likely" or something to have a collision.

I've been riding on and off for 30 years or so and have rarely or never locked a rear wheel on pavement, leave alone collided with anything. But there's a first time for everything, especially with creeping age...and besides, most of the other bikes I've owned when they were my only transportation so got used to using mostly my right hand to brake; but now that I also own a car (actually a van) my foot will by habit be heavy on the bike.

Headed to the dealer Monday, but I doubt they'll write me a check for $1k. Maybe they'll give me a merchandise or service credit, if anything.
I can't tell which state you live in. But one option may be to go to small claims court and seek the $1000 on a fraud action.

I can't tell which state you live in. But one option may be to go to small claims court and seek the $1000 on a fraud action.
Yeah, here in California I'm sure that's an option ('People's Court'). But first I'll probably see the G.M. at the dealer to see if we can work something out like a refund. It would probably look odd to a judge if I didn't bring it to the dealer's attention first, since they may have done it out of ignorance of the particular model.

 

[flynrider]

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Nope. Speedo takes reading from rear wheel ring. No rear-only ABS - I've locked the rear a few times.

My dealer's salesman was putting out the rear ABS thing BS on my bike too. I had to educate him a few times. So did the Service manager. Its not rocket science.

I haven't seen an ABS model yet. Mine doesn't have it and neither does the other CB they have on the floor.

 

[Deanohh_imp]

Nope. Speedo takes reading from rear wheel ring. No rear-only ABS - I've locked the rear a few times.

My dealer's salesman was putting out the rear ABS thing BS on my bike too. I had to educate him a few times. So did the Service manager. Its not rocket science.

I haven't seen an ABS model yet. Mine doesn't have it and neither does the other CB they have on the floor.

My dealer's salesman was putting out the rear ABS thing BS on my bike too. I had to educate him a few times. So did the Service manager. Its not rocket science.

I haven't seen an ABS model yet. Mine doesn't have it and neither does the other CB they have on the floor.
not only fraud but a safety risk. What if you skidded and crashed when the so called rear wheel abs didn't function? Would make a good story for local tv which should scare hell out of the dealership.

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

with msrp at $9999, it would be interesting to see if the sales order said anything about what the extra money was for.

 

[the Ferret]

It is scary how little dealer personnel know sometimes. Very few are motorcyclists themselves, and I've yet to find one that receives and reads magazine subscriptions or reads internet blogs like MotorcycleDaily.com which reviews bikes and products regularly.

At my local Honda/Yamaha dealership, they have only ONE employee that rides (the Service Manager) the rest drive cars. At the accessory shop I go to they have ONE who rides in the dirt, but none that ride on the street. These are the people advising us what works and what doesn't work.. and for them what they usually recommend is whatever product is carried by their main distributor.

 

[axolotl_imp]

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

 

[Randy B]

Then that constitutes a breach of contract as far as I can tell and they either owe you a refund or the proper item that you believed you were purchasing in the first place.
I would talk to them and see if they will fix the situation first. If not.....I'd contact a lawyer about it. Bring EVERYTHING you have about the transaction to him/her and see what they say.

 

[axolotl_imp]

Yeah, looking at the overall situation I think I have a pretty good case with the store (and then if necessary, a lawyer or just straight to small claims court myself). I think it costs $50 or something to file in small claims court here. Also I should probably try and get a refund on taxes paid on the $1k - around $75 or so.

Thanks all you guys for your help on this. Rolls, later when I thought about it I recalled I've locked up the rear wheel on the street at least a couple times in the past. It's just hard to remember because my riding history has not been continuous :-/

 

[ingobohn_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

 

[Randy B]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

 

[rjk555_imp]

Yeah, looking at the overall situation I think I have a pretty good case with the store (and then if necessary, a lawyer or just straight to small claims court myself). I think it costs $50 or something to file in small claims court here. Also I should probably try and get a refund on taxes paid on the $1k - around $75 or so.

Thanks all you guys for your help on this. Rolls, later when I thought about it I recalled I've locked up the rear wheel on the street at least a couple times in the past. It's just hard to remember because my riding history has not been continuous :-/

Info on the Small Claims Court process:
First from the California Courts

Next from [url=http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/small_claims/]California Dept. of Consumer Affairs.

Good luck.

 

[Randy B]

He lives in Texas.

 

[ingobohn_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)
Okay Sir, I understand.
Nevertheless, one time would have been enough, I am not dumb.

 

[axolotl_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

So how fast can the bike go without the speed limiter? Has top road speed ever been measured without it hooked up?

Yeah, looking at the overall situation I think I have a pretty good case with the store (and then if necessary, a lawyer or just straight to small claims court myself). I think it costs $50 or something to file in small claims court here. Also I should probably try and get a refund on taxes paid on the $1k - around $75 or so.

Thanks all you guys for your help on this. Rolls, later when I thought about it I recalled I've locked up the rear wheel on the street at least a couple times in the past. It's just hard to remember because my riding history has not been continuous :-/

Info on the Small Claims Court process:
First from the California Courts

Next from [url=http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/small_claims/]California Dept. of Consumer Affairs.

Good luck.

Thanks. I worked out something with the dealer where they gave me merchandise credit - a new helmet, $200 travel bag, mirrors, a bungee net, and some other stuff plus a gift card. It all came out to about $1080 worth of stuff so I pretty much broke even. Although I will be paying for that bungie net (with interest) for the next several years.

 

[thumper_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

Why would you need to disconnect a speed sensor for a dyno run? A dyno measures engine power, which is the same at a given RPM of the engine, regardless of what gear the bike is in. Therefore, there's no need to run a vehicle through all of its gears, or to its maximum speed in top gear, to obtain power figures.

If my CBR1000RR is spinning at 12,000 rpm in first gear, it's putting 161 hp to the rear tire. If it's spinning at 12,000 rpm in sixth gear, it's still putting the exact same 161 hp to the rear tire.

I know John Ethell of JETT Tuning didn't run my CBR1000RR on the metal drum of his dynomometer @ 180mph to map the Power Commander.

 

[rjk555_imp]

He lives in Texas.

Ah, I misinterpreted Post 23, then. I thought he was in California.

Thanks.

 

[the Ferret]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

Why would you need to disconnect a speed sensor for a dyno run? A dyno measures engine power, which is the same at a given RPM of the engine, regardless of what gear the bike is in. Therefore, there's no need to run a vehicle through all of its gears, or to its maximum speed in top gear, to obtain power figures.

If my CBR1000RR is spinning at 12,000 rpm in first gear, it's putting 161 hp to the rear tire. If it's spinning at 12,000 rpm in sixth gear, it's still putting the exact same 161 hp to the rear tire.

I know John Ethell of JETT Tuning didn't run my CBR1000RR on the metal drum of his dynomometer @ 180mph to map the Power Commander.

Why would you need to disconnect a speed sensor for a dyno run? A dyno measures engine power, which is the same at a given RPM of the engine, regardless of what gear the bike is in. Therefore, there's no need to run a vehicle through all of its gears, or to its maximum speed in top gear, to obtain power figures.

If my CBR1000RR is spinning at 12,000 rpm in first gear, it's putting 161 hp to the rear tire. If it's spinning at 12,000 rpm in sixth gear, it's still putting the exact same 161 hp to the rear tire.

I know John Ethell of JETT Tuning didn't run my CBR1000RR on the metal drum of his dynomometer @ 180mph to map the Power Commander.

Question from the curious. Can Dynos be different? Or maybe some Dyne operators don't know they can be run in one gear? I have watched dyno runs on youtube and they definitely shift up and down thru the gears. I have never seen a dyno machine, and have no interest in what the machine reads on my bike, but I think it is interesting to see how different dynos charts come out with differing results for the same bikes. For our bike there seems to be a 6 or 7 hp difference in peak power reported on different dynos. Or could it be that different individual examples of the same machine can read that much differently? Ie you can get a faster one from the factory or a slower one from the factory?

 

[Deanohh_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

So how fast can the bike go without the speed limiter? Has top road speed ever been measured without it hooked up?

Yeah, looking at the overall situation I think I have a pretty good case with the store (and then if necessary, a lawyer or just straight to small claims court myself). I think it costs $50 or something to file in small claims court here. Also I should probably try and get a refund on taxes paid on the $1k - around $75 or so.

Thanks all you guys for your help on this. Rolls, later when I thought about it I recalled I've locked up the rear wheel on the street at least a couple times in the past. It's just hard to remember because my riding history has not been continuous :-/

Info on the Small Claims Court process:
First from the California Courts

Next from [url=http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/small_claims/]California Dept. of Consumer Affairs.

Good luck.

Thanks. I worked out something with the dealer where they gave me merchandise credit - a new helmet, $200 travel bag, mirrors, a bungee net, and some other stuff plus a gift card. It all came out to about $1080 worth of stuff so I pretty much broke even. Although I will be paying for that bungie net (with interest) for the next several years.

So how fast can the bike go without the speed limiter? Has top road speed ever been measured without it hooked up?

when I disconnected the rear wheel sensor for a dyno run it wouldn't go over about 6k rpm in any gear....went into some kind of safe or limp mode. Non abs.