How To do your own 600 mile service
- Thread starter the Ferret
- Start date
Hey Riko,
There are three things at issue in the oil change cycle: the plastic oil filler cap, the metal oil drain plug under the engine and the crush washer that goes on that drain plug. You do not need either a new filler cap or drain plug, but Honda recommends using a new crush washer each time the oil is changed.
Does that make sense?
There are three things at issue in the oil change cycle: the plastic oil filler cap, the metal oil drain plug under the engine and the crush washer that goes on that drain plug. You do not need either a new filler cap or drain plug, but Honda recommends using a new crush washer each time the oil is changed.
Does that make sense?
Shinchan_imp
Running like a top
This, friends, is why you don't torque the oil filter to factory specs. This is after an end oil wrench, strap wrench, pipe wrench, and finally a pair of channel locks. The filter collapsed and started leaking oil all over before I was finally able to break it loose, and I'm darn lucky that it did finally come loose. Hand-tighten plus about 1/8 turn with the wrench for me, please...
flynrider
Road warrior
Yikes! That was really on there. Is it safe to assume (given the thread title) that this is how it came from the factory? I recall on many of the '13 models that the factory filter was on unusually tight (including mine) and the oil drain plug was unusually loose.
dsan1964_imp
Been there
Wow...yeah I always go hand tight,Then a bit more by hand...
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Shinchan_imp
Running like a top
I hope this isn't the factory oil filter, the bike had 2500 miles on it when I bought it.
Flynrider_imp said:
dsan1964_imp
Been there
Shinchan_imp said:
My factory one was a bugger to get off...
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Nortoon_imp
Road warrior
When I did the first oil change on my CB500XA, I was going to use Penny's plastic kitchen boa (used for removing jar tops) to remove the oil filter. At the dealers service desk Olivia suggested I buy the Honda oil filter wrench for $5. It is a light metal cap that fits over the top of the filter. It has a sturdy nut welded to the top so the filter can be removed with a wrench. Good thing I did because the filter was very tight and would have broken the plastic boa. Happy wife, happy life!
jimgl3_imp
Been there
this thread seems to have twisted and turned more than some of my favorite roads! I say that because I got tired of reading it, looking for what I was looking for, so if I missed it I'm sorry, but here it is... so far as heating the oil, running it up in there and all that by cranking and letting it run and all that to check the level, yes. But cranking the motor and running it before draining? WHY put all that gunk and dirt back up in the motor before draining the oil??? I let my motor sit a day or two before draining oil to let all that dirt settle in the pan and come out of there! that's one of oils main purpose is to get all that out of the motor! yes, it takes longer to drain. I let it sit over night to drain too! that's part of why some of you are seeing over fill! you had oil all up in your motor!
the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
Jimgl3...we had a whole thread conversation about that here
interesting conversation about draining oil
interesting conversation about draining oil
jimgl353_imp
Running like a top
oh my! LOL! God love us all! Peace to you my brother!
QimmiQ_imp
Running like a top
So, I finally did my 1000 km service. Thanks so much for the how to. I did however, experience a few things differently. Not sure whether these are oddities with my 2016 blackout checkerboard model or Canadian build issues:
1. Drain plug was not the least bit tight
2. Honda parts person gave me a 12 mm not 14 mm crush washer, but since the bolt wasn't tight it looked brand new
3. Filter snug and took a definite pinch from the pliers
4. Drains clean
5. 10mm+ of play in throttle. I've felt it loosening
6. Rear axle bolts are not 32 mm and 27mm as noted. They weren't very tight so I was able to get the job done with two 16 inch crescent wrenches. No rounding. However, I do want to properly torque this so would like to know the size others have if not above. What is the 2017? I didn't measure and had specifically bought new sockets to fit. I am guessing in the range of 19-20 mm for left and 27-28 right. What's up with that?
7. Chain was almost 2 inches of play
8. Tyres good
9. Punched up preload to 5 on the back and 4 on the front. At 6'2" and 240 I think I would really benefit from the front shock upgrade.
Thanks ferret. It was like you were there with me.
1. Drain plug was not the least bit tight
2. Honda parts person gave me a 12 mm not 14 mm crush washer, but since the bolt wasn't tight it looked brand new
3. Filter snug and took a definite pinch from the pliers
4. Drains clean
5. 10mm+ of play in throttle. I've felt it loosening
6. Rear axle bolts are not 32 mm and 27mm as noted. They weren't very tight so I was able to get the job done with two 16 inch crescent wrenches. No rounding. However, I do want to properly torque this so would like to know the size others have if not above. What is the 2017? I didn't measure and had specifically bought new sockets to fit. I am guessing in the range of 19-20 mm for left and 27-28 right. What's up with that?
7. Chain was almost 2 inches of play
8. Tyres good
9. Punched up preload to 5 on the back and 4 on the front. At 6'2" and 240 I think I would really benefit from the front shock upgrade.
Thanks ferret. It was like you were there with me.
the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
Welcome ....Honda changed the axle, axle nut sizes and torque value for the 14 models dlx and std, smaller than the 13 the tute was based on. I did do a 14 tute as well.
How To do 600 mile service on a 14 DLX
sizes for the axle nuts your bike are 27mm and 22 mm and torque is 65 Ft lbs not 85 as for the 13 std
How To do 600 mile service on a 14 DLX
sizes for the axle nuts your bike are 27mm and 22 mm and torque is 65 Ft lbs not 85 as for the 13 std
QimmiQ_imp
Running like a top
The ferret_imp said:
Brilliant! Thanks.
JerseyBoy_imp
New to the forum
Just bought a 2013 CB1100 with about 1000 miles. I do not know when/if it was serviced so I want to do this 600 mile service. Unfortunately the photos do not show from when this was posted years ago. Can you upload the photos referred to in the first two posts?
Welcome to the forum, JerseyBoy. That’s very few miles for a 2013 motorcycle.
The photos went west when Photobucket changed it’s rules. I don’t know whether the Ferret has kept copies and could upload them, but I do know he is away from home attending the CB1100 Rally. That means you may not get a rapid response.
Meanwhile, try asking any specific questions you have and someone is sure to help out.
To change the oil, you need a 17mm wrench, and a new crush washer. The filter requires either the special Honda tool or a strap wrench of some sort. The instructions are in the owner’s manual. If you don’t have one, the manual for the 2010 model is at http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/CB1100A2010.pdf. The 2010 model is not materially different to the 2013.
The photos went west when Photobucket changed it’s rules. I don’t know whether the Ferret has kept copies and could upload them, but I do know he is away from home attending the CB1100 Rally. That means you may not get a rapid response.
Meanwhile, try asking any specific questions you have and someone is sure to help out.
To change the oil, you need a 17mm wrench, and a new crush washer. The filter requires either the special Honda tool or a strap wrench of some sort. The instructions are in the owner’s manual. If you don’t have one, the manual for the 2010 model is at http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/CB1100A2010.pdf. The 2010 model is not materially different to the 2013.
Found a youtube video for an oil change on a '14 standard, which should be the same for yours:
CLICK HERE for video
CLICK HERE for video
