How To do your own 600 mile service

[the Ferret]

I did the 600-mile service today, and as expected, no real problems. Filter wasn't absurdly tight, but the drain bolt was unbelievably loose.
Despite my best efforts, I still got some oil on the garage floor, and my clothes. (It's impossible not to!!!)

Lastly, I must admit that I had two very close calls, and lessons learned.

1. Never put the bike on it's center stand when you have the key in the side seat lock. Unknowingly, my leg was placed against the protruding key, and as I levered the bike back, I felt an unfamiliar pressure on the left knee. Looking down, i noticed I had just bent the key about 20 degrees! I couldn't believe it....Luckily, it bent back exactly how it was, and no issues thereafter.

2. Be aware of your surroundings! As I was unscrewing the old filter, for whatever reason, I'm trying to read some of the lettering on the filter. Why? I have no idea. But as my eyes wander upward, I realize my forehead is about 2 inches from a raging-hot header pipe; the bike had been running only a few minutes earlier. It wouldn't have taken much effort to lean forward a little, and that would have completely, thoroughly, absolutely, and positively ruined my day.

Anyway, thanks for the write-up folks, it was a big help

Wow, you got lucky on both counts. Broken key, not good. Be sure and keep an eye on it unlocking the gas cap cause it doesn't go in deep.

Burnt forehead...dayum that would hurt!

 

[cbfan_imp]

Can't wait for the valve inspection write up.

 

[flynrider]

I did the 600-mile service today, and as expected, no real problems. Filter wasn't absurdly tight, but the drain bolt was unbelievably loose.
Despite my best efforts, I still got some oil on the garage floor, and my clothes. (It's impossible not to!!!)

Lastly, I must admit that I had two very close calls, and lessons learned.

1. Never put the bike on it's center stand when you have the key in the side seat lock. Unknowingly, my leg was placed against the protruding key, and as I levered the bike back, I felt an unfamiliar pressure on the left knee. Looking down, i noticed I had just bent the key about 20 degrees! I couldn't believe it....Luckily, it bent back exactly how it was, and no issues thereafter.

2. Be aware of your surroundings! As I was unscrewing the old filter, for whatever reason, I'm trying to read some of the lettering on the filter. Why? I have no idea. But as my eyes wander upward, I realize my forehead is about 2 inches from a raging-hot header pipe; the bike had been running only a few minutes earlier. It wouldn't have taken much effort to lean forward a little, and that would have completely, thoroughly, absolutely, and positively ruined my day.

Anyway, thanks for the write-up folks, it was a big help

Lucky you. I posted the same problem back in April. Bent the key in exactly the same way after about 4 whole hours of ownership I wasn't as fortunate, though. I bent the key back and it seemed to work OK in the helmet lock, but when I tried it in the ignition, it not only didn't turn, but it got stuck. I was able to get it out with pliers.

I also found out that key blanks for this bike are pretty hard to come by (or were 5 months ago). I ended up waiting 3 weeks for a special order blank at the local locksmith.

Be careful out there!

I did the 600-mile service today, and as expected, no real problems. Filter wasn't absurdly tight, but the drain bolt was unbelievably loose.
Despite my best efforts, I still got some oil on the garage floor, and my clothes. (It's impossible not to!!!)

Lastly, I must admit that I had two very close calls, and lessons learned.

1. Never put the bike on it's center stand when you have the key in the side seat lock. Unknowingly, my leg was placed against the protruding key, and as I levered the bike back, I felt an unfamiliar pressure on the left knee. Looking down, i noticed I had just bent the key about 20 degrees! I couldn't believe it....Luckily, it bent back exactly how it was, and no issues thereafter.

2. Be aware of your surroundings! As I was unscrewing the old filter, for whatever reason, I'm trying to read some of the lettering on the filter. Why? I have no idea. But as my eyes wander upward, I realize my forehead is about 2 inches from a raging-hot header pipe; the bike had been running only a few minutes earlier. It wouldn't have taken much effort to lean forward a little, and that would have completely, thoroughly, absolutely, and positively ruined my day.

Anyway, thanks for the write-up folks, it was a big help

Lucky you. I posted the same problem back in April. Bent the key in exactly the same way after about 4 whole hours of ownership I wasn't as fortunate, though. I bent the key back and it seemed to work OK in the helmet lock, but when I tried it in the ignition, it not only didn't turn, but it got stuck. I was able to get it out with pliers.

I also found out that key blanks for this bike are pretty hard to come by (or were 5 months ago). I ended up waiting 3 weeks for a special order blank at the local locksmith.

Be careful out there!

 

[the Ferret]

Fyi..I went to a local locksmith, Mr Lock, and he made me a spare from a blank on his wall for $3.74. Took all of 5 mins. I tried it in seat lock first, ignition second and no problems. Its now hidden on my bike in case I lose my key while on the road.

 

[retroman_imp]

Thanks for the write-up on the 600m service! It took a little over an hour to complete the service. Few items of interest from my experience:

- Took her for a ride around the block, took the fill cap off, drain nut was snug, dropped the nut in the pan LOL! Crush washer was intact. The oil filter was pretty tight and required a bit of effort with a filter wrench. There wasn't much oil in the filter. Took exactly 4.1 quarts to bring it up to a bit shy of the top mark.

- Chain was a bit loose over ~1.25 deflection (depending on how hard you push on the chain) at 3 different points. Loosening the axle nut with a 32mm socket was a cinch, didn't seem to be on too tight. Taped a piece of cardboard where the torque wrench made contact with the exhaust. The adjustment nut was probably around 3/4 turns counter clockwise to tighten the chain to 1" slack. Stick a screw driver in the chain and sprocket bottom junction and rotate wheel forward by hand and lock the wheel with a piece of wood or brick before tightening the axle nut. Thsi helps ensure even stretch and pushes the wheel snug against the desired adjustment nut setting. Again, measure chain slackness at 3 to 4 different points and make adjustments if needed before tightening the axle nut to 85 Ft-lb setting with your torque wrench.

- Tightened front fork by 1/2 clockwise turn each and set rear shocks to 2nd from the lowest setting.

Bike handles well and everything seems fine after first test ride following the service.

 

[Sfomoto_imp]

I called my local dealer and they wanted $275 plus tax for the first service, so I decided to do it myself. My better half was beside me with the iPad going through your guide; I kept going back and checking to make sure I was doing it right. The oil filter was very tight and the crush washer needed replaced. It took me about one hour because I took my time and checked everything on the bike. Your guide made it easy! After I was done, I wanted to call the service department at my dealer and say In Your Face!! But I didn’t 

Thank you again :worship:,

Sfomoto

 

[SanPete_imp]

Once again thank you Ferret for a wonderful write up! (I bet you don't get tired of reading that) It took me longer than I expected because of the many trips trying to find all the tools and parts I needed. As mentioned before, the filter put up a good fight and the drain bolt took no effort to unscrew. The tires needed some air, and the chain tensioning. To my surprise the axel nut was just as loose as the oil drain bolt It was definitely not tight to spec. I am fortunate the wheel did not fly off while riding. Whoever assembled this bike did not do a good job. A closer inspection reveals that the plastic surrounding one of the mirrors is half way in, WTF!. The mirrors are getting replaced anyways, but still this kind of thing shouldn't be. And what's with the tool bag? Really! My 1984 Magna has a much better tool bag than this, and it includes the rear suspension adjustment tool. Way to go Honda!

 

[the Ferret]

Once again, very happy that it has helped some of you guys. Now you know how to do some simple things in the future to maintain your bike which should prove beneficial not only from a monetary factor, but from a forming a closer relationship with your bike factor.

 

[gogoAZ_imp]

Thanks for the great how to. Did my 600 miler today without a hitch!

 

[Blockhead_imp]

Maybe this will be a dumb question. I am getting ready to do my first service and assuming I need a new crush washer, do I need to get it from the dealer or is that something I can pick up at the local hardware store?

Thanks

 

[the Ferret]

Either your local Honda motorcycle or Honda car dealer. The car dealer will probably be cheaper. Part nimber 94109-14000 at both places. 14 mm crush washer.

 

[cbfan_imp]

To avoid bending your key in the future put a knob on it.

 

[Randy B]

To avoid bending your key in the future put a knob on it.

Are you taking about putting a knob on the key it self, or making a permanent knob for the helmet lock?

 

[cbfan_imp]

You want to use the key that way you can use on helmet lock or gas cap and because the key is cut down for good fit it will not fit in ignition for engine start and thus not get stolen.

 

[lackskill_imp]

Thanks for the write up ferret. 220 miles and I decided to check my chain because I seem to have a lot of lash when I get on or off the throttle, no matter how smooth, unless I slip the clutch. It's almost 2", so I'll be doing an adjustment this weekend.

 

[Delmontemies_imp]

Using these great instructions i managed to chance oil all by myself, not a small task for somebody who isn't a natural grease finger! Thanks!

 

[the Ferret]

Cool, glad it was of some help.

 

[Rocky_imp]

I'm arriving a bit late to this thread, but I'm a newbie and still scrolling through the many helpful threads.
I've been changing my own oil and filters for over 20 years on various bikes (used and new) and the tutorial made me smile with satisfaction as I read through it.
Great Job ferret I couldn't have said it better.
When I first read this thread (this is my second time) my first thought was about warranty. In the past I always took my new bikes back to the dealer for the first service. After that I did everything myself except changing tires. I have plenty of tools and a bit of mechanical ability so I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty.
I was pleased to read in the owners manual that the warranty would not be voided if I did my own first service on the CB1100.
Phew, you guys had me going there for a minute
I always use whatever weight oil the manufacturer recommends in new bikes. 10W-40 Castrol has usually been my oil of choice and I was surprised to learn that 10W-30 is now the recommended weight and has been for a few years. Since it rarely gets above 30C (86F) around here (or even that high) I'm going to use 10W-30. Average temps are more like 25-26C (77- 79F).

 

[shdwghst457_imp]

Shhhh, don't say that around the 10W40 camp!

 

[hemdawg_imp]

I'm a new member, just now acquiring my 2014 CB1100SA. I've learned a heck of a lot by digging into the forum threads.
Ferret, your 600 mile service tutorial is fantastic, so well done. I am looking forward to doing the 600 mile service myself, and as much servicing as I can handle as time goes on.
Do the next scheduled service checks become overly complicated? I don't see checking the valves myself, but I'd like to do whatever I can, and avoid the service shop if possible.
Thanks again