terrydlargo_imp
First service completed
I use Mobile 1 motorcycle full synthetic 10w40. I live in Florida and its HOT here in the summer.
How To do your own 600 mile service
- Thread starter the Ferret
- Start date
meowguy_imp
Been there
In a brand new bike costing over $10,000 why would you use anything other than the manufacturer recommended oil...which is not full synthetic?
I'm just asking. :huh:
The recommended oil is 10W30 SJ.
I'm just asking. :huh:
The recommended oil is 10W30 SJ.
oldyaler_imp
Running like a top
terrydlargo lives in Florida where the temps in summer can be extreme so a higher viscosity oil will retain it's viscosity better. Synthetic oils also have higher shear strength than petroleum based oils, thus, they will last longer before they need to be changed. Any type of oil can be used as long as it meets SJ specs.meowguy_imp said:
meowguy_imp
Been there
terrydlargo lives in Florida where the temps in summer can be extreme so a higher viscosity oil will retain it's viscosity better. Synthetic oils also have higher shear strength than petroleum based oils, thus, they will last longer before they need to be changed. Any type of oil can be used as long as it meets SJ specs.oldyaler_imp said:
To each their own I guess, but the only oil going in mine will be Pro Honda GN4. And GN4 is available in 10W40 for hotter climates. Extended oil life in a motorcycle is not something I think we should strive for. The factory change cycle is almost always disregarded in favor of more frequent oil changes. My Tundra was built for synthetic oil, yet it gets changed at half the duty cycle. Pro Honda is specially formulated for cycle engines. These are the guys that own Indy Car racing. I think I'll trust their advice when it comes to my bike. I just have no good reason not to. JMHO.
oldyaler_imp
Running like a top
terrydlargo lives in Florida where the temps in summer can be extreme so a higher viscosity oil will retain it's viscosity better. Synthetic oils also have higher shear strength than petroleum based oils, thus, they will last longer before they need to be changed. Any type of oil can be used as long as it meets SJ specs.meowguy_imp said:
To each their own I guess, but the only oil going in mine will be Pro Honda GN4. And GN4 is available in 10W40 for hotter climates. Extended oil life in a motorcycle is not something I think we should strive for. The factory change cycle is almost always disregarded in favor of more frequent oil changes. My Tundra was built for synthetic oil, yet it gets changed at half the duty cycle. Pro Honda is specially formulated for cycle engines. These are the guys that own Indy Car racing. I think I'll trust their advice when it comes to my bike. I just have no good reason not to. JMHO. Everybody has their favorite brands and price has a lot to do with what someone chooses. As long as it meets SJ specs it's all good.
meowguy_imp
Been there
terrydlargo lives in Florida where the temps in summer can be extreme so a higher viscosity oil will retain it's viscosity better. Synthetic oils also have higher shear strength than petroleum based oils, thus, they will last longer before they need to be changed. Any type of oil can be used as long as it meets SJ specs.oldyaler_imp said:
To each their own I guess, but the only oil going in mine will be Pro Honda GN4. And GN4 is available in 10W40 for hotter climates. Extended oil life in a motorcycle is not something I think we should strive for. The factory change cycle is almost always disregarded in favor of more frequent oil changes. My Tundra was built for synthetic oil, yet it gets changed at half the duty cycle. Pro Honda is specially formulated for cycle engines. These are the guys that own Indy Car racing. I think I'll trust their advice when it comes to my bike. I just have no good reason not to. JMHO. Everybody has their favorite brands and price has a lot to do with what someone chooses. As long as it meets SJ specs it's all good.
I freely admit I don't know much about oil which is why I have to be very careful. Going by API rating I was going to use my old stand-by Castrol GTX which is rated SM, SL, SJ, SH. There is the magic "SJ" so you think it's ok to use. Until you see that "Energy Conserving" moniker on the API label. Honda does not recommend Energy Conserving oils in this motor. I'm just sayin if you can afford this bike, you can afford the recommended oil.
hondahoarder_imp
Been there
Nice job thanks!
oldyaler_imp
Running like a top
terrydlargo lives in Florida where the temps in summer can be extreme so a higher viscosity oil will retain it's viscosity better. Synthetic oils also have higher shear strength than petroleum based oils, thus, they will last longer before they need to be changed. Any type of oil can be used as long as it meets SJ specs.meowguy_imp said:terrydlargo lives in Florida where the temps in summer can be extreme so a higher viscosity oil will retain it's viscosity better. Synthetic oils also have higher shear strength than petroleum based oils, thus, they will last longer before they need to be changed. Any type of oil can be used as long as it meets SJ specs.oldyaler_imp said:
To each their own I guess, but the only oil going in mine will be Pro Honda GN4. And GN4 is available in 10W40 for hotter climates. Extended oil life in a motorcycle is not something I think we should strive for. The factory change cycle is almost always disregarded in favor of more frequent oil changes. My Tundra was built for synthetic oil, yet it gets changed at half the duty cycle. Pro Honda is specially formulated for cycle engines. These are the guys that own Indy Car racing. I think I'll trust their advice when it comes to my bike. I just have no good reason not to. JMHO. Everybody has their favorite brands and price has a lot to do with what someone chooses. As long as it meets SJ specs it's all good.
I freely admit I don't know much about oil which is why I have to be very careful. Going by API rating I was going to use my old stand-by Castrol GTX which is rated SM, SL, SJ, SH. There is the magic "SJ" so you think it's ok to use. Until you see that "Energy Conserving" moniker on the API label. Honda does not recommend Energy Conserving oils in this motor. I'm just sayin if you can afford this bike, you can afford the recommended oil.
To each their own I guess, but the only oil going in mine will be Pro Honda GN4. And GN4 is available in 10W40 for hotter climates. Extended oil life in a motorcycle is not something I think we should strive for. The factory change cycle is almost always disregarded in favor of more frequent oil changes. My Tundra was built for synthetic oil, yet it gets changed at half the duty cycle. Pro Honda is specially formulated for cycle engines. These are the guys that own Indy Car racing. I think I'll trust their advice when it comes to my bike. I just have no good reason not to. JMHO. Everybody has their favorite brands and price has a lot to do with what someone chooses. As long as it meets SJ specs it's all good.
I freely admit I don't know much about oil which is why I have to be very careful. Going by API rating I was going to use my old stand-by Castrol GTX which is rated SM, SL, SJ, SH. There is the magic "SJ" so you think it's ok to use. Until you see that "Energy Conserving" moniker on the API label. Honda does not recommend Energy Conserving oils in this motor. I'm just sayin if you can afford this bike, you can afford the recommended oil.
Oops, my bad. I was thinking in terms of motorcycle specific oils. I forgot to put that in my reply.HondaJon_imp
Been there
Great job Ferret, I would only suggest adding 2 things:
I always fill my filters with fresh oil and let them sit for about 10 mins before I install them. Most of it will soak in, but it can only reduce the oil starvation time.
Since I just got mine yesterday, I am not sure if the cb 1100 will spin over with the red engine switch off, but whenever I change the oil in the XR 650L, I crank her with the engine switch off to rebuild the oil pressure, the fire her up.
I always fill my filters with fresh oil and let them sit for about 10 mins before I install them. Most of it will soak in, but it can only reduce the oil starvation time.
Since I just got mine yesterday, I am not sure if the cb 1100 will spin over with the red engine switch off, but whenever I change the oil in the XR 650L, I crank her with the engine switch off to rebuild the oil pressure, the fire her up.
Randy B
Road warrior
If the switch is off you get no cranking.
Flynbulldog_imp
Running like a top
Thanks for the write-up ferret. Did my own first service today. it was a piece of cake..
ChipBeck_imp
Road warrior
Gentlemen,meowguy_imp said:
Honda makes and sells three grades of motorcycle oils. GN4 is their least expensive SJ 10-30 oil and it is all petroleum. For about $2 more per quart Honda sells a semi-synthetic, and for $5 more per quart Honda sells their best oil which is HP4S 10-30 SJ. All three were recommended by my dealer for all Honda motorcycles. Honda recommends full synthetic for racing and extreme duty applications and Honda Racing uses only full synthetic in their Indy Car engines and in their motorcycle racing engines as well. I agree with Meowguy that motorcycle oil is probably changed too often to really take advantage of full synthetic oil but for an extra $20 per oil change I would rather use Hondas best SJ oil and that is HP4S although I'd be fine with any of Hondas 3 SJ oils. That said, following Ferret's excellent directions I did my own 600 mile service last night. If I had not read his write up I would have taken my bike to the dealer to have them do it. One thing wasn't clear in the write up and I had to look it up in my owners manual. I didn't know if I was supposed to check the chain slack with the rear tire on the ground or with the rear tire suspended in the air on the center stand. "On the center stand" was what it said in the owners manual. Thanks for your excellent "how to" Ferret.
Chip
the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
Sorry Chip, the very first instruction after warm up was to "pop it up on centerstand". All of the service checks were done with the bike while it is up there. I should have been more specific.
Glad the tutorial is helping some folks
Glad the tutorial is helping some folks
Randy B
Road warrior
I did.
silascopathic_imp
Been there
Finished my service last night! Great feeling of accomplishment and thinking about the money saved in the future now that I have all the tools, makes me happy. Thanks "The Ferret!"
Nano Tech_imp
First service completed
What a Comprehensive write-up ..Ferret , Why Don't you write a book - "Motorcycle servicing manual for dummies"
the Ferret
Road warrior
Thread starter
Cause for the most part I am one of the dummies :idea:Nano Tech_imp said:What a Comprehensive write-up ..Ferret , Why Don't you write a book - "Motorcycle servicing manual for dummies"
hondahoarder_imp
Been there
Just finished my first service to repeat great guide Ferret, and first detail as all I have done since I got it was ride! So had to snap a few pics.
One Artsy one
[url=http://s413.photobucket.com/user/Mstarvideo/media/2013%20CB1100/IMG_3579_zpsa3b0a2b3.jpg.html]
One Artsy one
[url=http://s413.photobucket.com/user/Mstarvideo/media/2013%20CB1100/IMG_3579_zpsa3b0a2b3.jpg.html]
Jim21680_imp
Been there
I did the 600-mile service today, and as expected, no real problems. Filter wasn't absurdly tight, but the drain bolt was unbelievably loose.
Despite my best efforts, I still got some oil on the garage floor, and my clothes. (It's impossible not to!!!)
Lastly, I must admit that I had two very close calls, and lessons learned.
1. Never put the bike on it's center stand when you have the key in the side seat lock. Unknowingly, my leg was placed against the protruding key, and as I levered the bike back, I felt an unfamiliar pressure on the left knee. Looking down, i noticed I had just bent the key about 20 degrees! I couldn't believe it....Luckily, it bent back exactly how it was, and no issues thereafter.
2. Be aware of your surroundings! As I was unscrewing the old filter, for whatever reason, I'm trying to read some of the lettering on the filter. Why? I have no idea. But as my eyes wander upward, I realize my forehead is about 2 inches from a raging-hot header pipe; the bike had been running only a few minutes earlier. It wouldn't have taken much effort to lean forward a little, and that would have completely, thoroughly, absolutely, and positively ruined my day.
Anyway, thanks for the write-up folks, it was a big help
Despite my best efforts, I still got some oil on the garage floor, and my clothes. (It's impossible not to!!!)
Lastly, I must admit that I had two very close calls, and lessons learned.
1. Never put the bike on it's center stand when you have the key in the side seat lock. Unknowingly, my leg was placed against the protruding key, and as I levered the bike back, I felt an unfamiliar pressure on the left knee. Looking down, i noticed I had just bent the key about 20 degrees! I couldn't believe it....Luckily, it bent back exactly how it was, and no issues thereafter.
2. Be aware of your surroundings! As I was unscrewing the old filter, for whatever reason, I'm trying to read some of the lettering on the filter. Why? I have no idea. But as my eyes wander upward, I realize my forehead is about 2 inches from a raging-hot header pipe; the bike had been running only a few minutes earlier. It wouldn't have taken much effort to lean forward a little, and that would have completely, thoroughly, absolutely, and positively ruined my day.
Anyway, thanks for the write-up folks, it was a big help
