How To do your own 600 mile service

The ferret_imp said:
Congrats you have just completed your own 600 mile service. Be sure and record date, mileage and save your receipts for warranty purposes. Not only have you saved up to $100 at your local dealership and maybe a couple days without your bike if the shop is busy, but you know your service was done right, and you've become more familiar with your bike.

If anyone notices any errors, please bring it up so we can correct it asap. Thanks.

Hope this helps some of the newbies.
oldyaler_imp said:
Well done ferret. Whenever I do any work like that I have to add a step. Before I start I go ahead and spill a little oil on my shirt and hands Because IT 'S GONNA HAPPEN ANYWAY.:D

Yep...

I hate oil, hate it. Like you said, it gets on me, my tools, my garage floor, my work bench, everything that gets near it, but its a necessary evil.

It's nice to be able to do basic service work on your motorcycle though, and to be able to do it on your time schedule, and not at the mercy of the dealer which may be 100 miles away.

Trust me on this, I am not mechanically inclined, but this kind of stuff is really easy. You can do it.
Not only that, but it takes less time than two round-trips to my dealer.

Valves at 8K mi. I take it they are typical Honda, and usually only need checking.

Tom
 
Thread starter
Heres another tip for you all. The crush washer for the drain plug Honda part # 94109-14000 costs $1.00 at my local motorcycle dealership ... but my 08 Honda Civic uses the exact same crush washer Honda part # 94109-14000 and they only charge 30 cents for it. While out riding stop at the car dealer and get a couple extras and keep them in your tool box just in case.
 
Thx Ferret, a question about checking the oil level:

With the bike on the center stand, after I run the engine for 20 seconds or so and then shut it off the oil level looks about right.

Then after it sits on the stand for another hour or so the level looks higher, slightly overfull. When is the proper time to check the level?
 
Thread starter
Every manual I've ever seen says to run it for 3 to 5 mins, then shut it off for 3 to 5 mins, then check it.

Ill run em for 2 to 3, shut it off, and go inside for maybe 10 mins, wash my hands, get a sip of water, then check it. im not sure it really matters that much. You want oil circulated into the engine, and then you want it drained into the oil pan. Giving it a couple minutes for each should be plenty. Remember it doesnt have to be exactly on the upper level line, just " between" the lines.

How much oil did you put in it? Spec is 4 qts 3.2 oz with filter, but mine was over the upper limit line at 4 qts.
 
Thread starter
Yep mine was a little full too at 4 qts. Not enough to be concerned over but next time its 3 qts 28 oz,then run it and let it sit, then sneak up on the full line with subsequent adding.
 
Ferret, did you drain yours on the sidestand at all? I find that, depending on the drain bolt location, if I drain it on the sidestand, then stand it up for a while, then back on the sidestand, and then repeat once more, a surprising additional amount of oil will flow out. In looking at your pictures the CB's drain bolt does look to be in an ideal location for draining, so the centerstand only is probably all you need on this bike. However, the back and forth as I describe above does seem to 'find' some additional oil trapped in passages and galleries etc.
 
Thread starter
Scoob..you are right, on some bikes, my FZ 1 for example the drain bolt is on the side. On it I drain on the side stand. Fr some reason on Hondas that I have seen, they are set up for draining on the centerstand. Yea wiggling them back and forth may get you some more oil, but I doubt its an ounce. If you drained the oil then set a clean pan underneath overnight, Id bet youd get more. Oil seems to never quit draining thru a hole lol.
 
The ferret_imp said:
Scoob..you are right, on some bikes, my FZ 1 for example the drain bolt is on the side. On it I drain on the side stand. Fr some reason on Hondas that I have seen, they are set up for draining on the centerstand. Yea wiggling them back and forth may get you some more oil, but I doubt its an ounce. If you drained the oil then set a clean pan underneath overnight, Id bet youd get more. Oil seems to never quit draining thru a hole lol.
I hear you, Ferret. I'm just a little anal about these things, but I know you're never going to get all the old oil out. Like you I find something else to do while I give it extra time to drain. One thing I'm sure of, us DIY'ers let it drain a lot longer than the dealers do!
 
The ferret_imp said:
While you're at it check fluid levels in clutch, brake and rear brake fluid reservoirs ( rear brake res is under seat right side)




[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020031_zps0f2a3ae2.jpg.html]

Btw your fuse box is right next to the rear brake res. Its good to know where it is before you have any electrical issues

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Our oil should be drained by now so let get to putting our bike back together. Take your drain plug, and new crush washer if necessary and start bolt into drain. After 2 or 3 treads stop and clean oil off surrounding area with a rag.


[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020025_zps301573e6.jpg.html]

Once clean run the bolt home by hand. Then tighten with ratchet and 17 mm socket. I snug mine up, but spec is 20 ft lbs I believe.


Next grab your new oil filter. Rub some fresh oil around the rubber o- ring and pour an ounce or two into the filter and roll it around.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020023_zpsa8d6934b.jpg.html]

When ready to install, take your rag and make sure area around filter is clean.

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Install filter by hand and tighten down until it makes contact. Finish tightening by hand turning an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn or until snug. Torque pec on it is Ft lbs if uou are so inclined.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020024_zpsbf8503c9.jpg.html]

Now move to the right side of the bike. This bike has a pretty small fill so grab a funnel if you don't want oil everywhere.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020029_zps5b056da1.jpg.html]

The CB calls for 4.1 qts with filter, 4.0 qts without of Honda 10 W30. I put an asterisk next to that figure. I poured 4 qts into mine ans it was slightly overfilled. Not so high it will cause an issue, but next time I'm putting in 3 qts 28 oz and checking it before adding any more.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020037_zpsf6b74396.jpg.html]

Replace your oil fill plug.

Now start the bike, immediately the red oil light will come on

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020050_zps7d74364d.jpg.html]

But it should go out in a second or two

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020051_zps957c285c.jpg.html]

While the bike is warming up, check headlight, high and low beams, turn signals left and right, front and back, tail light, and brake light with hand and foot.

After running for 2 minutes. Turn the bike off and let it sit for 5 mins or so. Then check oil level in sight glass. It should be between the high and low mark. Anywhere in between is okay, but we all know you are going to try and make it dead even with the top mark, aren't you?

I admit it; I just can't help it.
 
Would you happen to have the OD & ID of this washer? I have a few washers from previous Honda bikes still laying around.

The ferret_imp said:
Heres another tip for you all. The crush washer for the drain plug Honda part # 94109-14000 costs $1.00 at my local motorcycle dealership ... but my 08 Honda Civic uses the exact same crush washer Honda part # 94109-14000 and they only charge 30 cents for it. While out riding stop at the car dealer and get a couple extras and keep them in your tool box just in case.
 
Thread starter
ID would be 14 mm or at least its for a 14 mm bolt. I could measure one in Thousandths I suppose if you need that with my caliper.
 
The ferret_imp said:
ID would be 14 mm or at least its for a 14 mm bolt. I could measure one in Thousandths I suppose if you need that with my caliper.
Ferret,

Thanks for the detailed write up you saved me at least $100.00. The shops in my area wanted between $140.00-$225.00. Once I heard those prices I decided I would take an hour of my time an do it myself.
 
Thread starter
You are welcome jwayne. They ask crazy money for an easy hours worth of work isn't it? Glad it was able to help someone.
 
Thanks Ferret for posting. Much appreciated. We finally have great riding weather after a pretty cold/snowy early spring, and the miles are piling up now. Should get to it in a couple of days.
 
Also, about the crush washers, my local dealer, Mason City Honda, has them for only 28 cents. I checked from the place I buy my Honda OEM auto parts from and they wanted 35 cents. Mason City Honda (motorcycles) only wanted 28 cents. And any OEM part is 20% off. Give them a look see.
 
Hello there folks, I have been getting some info via the web on engine breakins, some sites recommend changing your oil at earlier intervals (200/500 miles) and using regular Dino oil so asto flush out the micro shrapnel from the new engine. Any thoughts on this?
Great site by the way!
 
Excellent write up, thank you so much for your contribution! I don't want to start an oil discussion thread, but what brand/weight is everyone running?
 
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