How To do your own 600 mile service

[the Ferret]

Posting this is going to take awhile so bear with me.....

The 600 mile service is really an easy one. It's basically an oil and filter change and a most general check. The general check includes throttle play, chain tension, lights operation etc. The manual also calls for checking torque on nuts and bolts and checking steering head bearing tension, but we're not doing that and either would your dealer.

To start, we need to know a few specs:




And a few tools

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The first thing you'll do is start the bike and let it run 2-3 minutes. I feel the cylinder fins, and when they are warm ( not hot) I turn it off. Then pop it up on the centerstand. Slide your drain pan underneath.

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Move to the right side of the bike and remove the oil fill plug


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Locate the oil drain plug which is a 14 mm silver bolt under the engine


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Take a ratchet, a short extension and a 17 mm socket and loosen the bolt (turn counter clockwise). Once loose continue to loosen by hand unti its free and pull it out of the way letting the oil drain into the pan.

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Take a rag and dry off the drain bolt, and crush washer if you didn't drop it in the oil lol. If the crush washer shows signs of deformation, or wont easily pull off the threads of the drain bolt, discard it and get your new one for later.

Once the oil stream slows way down scoot the pan forward under the oil filter and grab your wrench and again turning counter clockwise break it loose.

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Once loose, put the wrench down and further loosen the filter by hand until its free. Be careful when it comes off, the filter is basically a cup full of oil, so once free pour the oil out of the filter into the drain pan.
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Be sure to discard oil filter in a bag you can seal otherwise it will leak oil into your garbage can


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Oil will drain for a long time, so while its draining we will do some of the other checks

Throttle play is measure from full off to where you start to feel tension while turning the throttle. To measure it, put a line on the top of your throttle grip

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Then take a ruler and with the mark at 0 turn your throttle till you feel tension and measure the distance it turned. (I forgot to download the pic so i'll add it later)
Spec is 2-6 mm or max 1/4 ". Mine was at 4 mm so it was still in spec.
If the throttle play did need adjustment, the adjuster is on the upper throttle cable and requires an 8 and a 10 mm open end wrench
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Grab an air gauge and check your tire pressures 36 front and 42 rear is spec

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Next check your crankcase breather tubes. There are two. One under the throttle bodies

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And one under the left side of the motor

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If there is any fluid in the tubes, put a drain under them, pull the black caps, and drain them.
Grab a ruler and measure your chain tension halfway between the sprockets. Spec call for 1 to 1 1/4 inch of slack. Mine measured 1inch so it was still in spec.

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If your chain needs tightening, you'll need a 32 mm socket, a breaker bar or heavy duty ratchet, and an 8 mm wrench or socket. Loosen the axle nut and use the 8 mm wrench to turn the adj bolts 1/2 turn counter clockwise each, check your tension again. Once properly adjusted tighten axle nut. I tighten mine tight, but spec is 85 foot pounds if you want to measure it.

 

[the Ferret]

While you're at it check fluid levels in clutch, brake and rear brake fluid reservoirs ( rear brake res is under seat right side)




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Btw your fuse box is right next to the rear brake res. Its good to know where it is before you have any electrical issues

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Our oil should be drained by now so let get to putting our bike back together. Take your drain plug, and new crush washer if necessary and start bolt into drain. After 2 or 3 treads stop and clean oil off surrounding area with a rag.


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Once clean run the bolt home by hand. Then tighten with ratchet and 17 mm socket. I snug mine up, but spec is 20 ft lbs I believe.


Next grab your new oil filter. Rub some fresh oil around the rubber o- ring and pour an ounce or two into the filter and roll it around.

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When ready to install, take your rag and make sure area around filter is clean.

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Install filter by hand and tighten down until it makes contact. Finish tightening by hand turning an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn or until snug. Torque pec on it is Ft lbs if uou are so inclined.

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Now move to the right side of the bike. This bike has a pretty small fill so grab a funnel if you don't want oil everywhere.

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The CB calls for 4.1 qts with filter, 4.0 qts without of Honda 10 W30. I put an asterisk next to that figure. I poured 4 qts into mine ans it was slightly overfilled. Not so high it will cause an issue, but next time I'm putting in 3 qts 28 oz and checking it before adding any more.

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Replace your oil fill plug.

Now start the bike, immediately the red oil light will come on

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But it should go out in a second or two

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While the bike is warming up, check headlight, high and low beams, turn signals left and right, front and back, tail light, and brake light with hand and foot.

After running for 2 minutes. Turn the bike off and let it sit for 5 mins or so. Then check oil level in sight glass. It should be between the high and low mark. Anywhere in between is okay, but we all know you are going to try and make it dead even with the top mark, aren't you?

 

[oldyaler_imp]

Well done ferret. Whenever I do any work like that I have to add a step. Before I start I go ahead and spill a little oil on my shirt and hands Because IT 'S GONNA HAPPEN ANYWAY.

 

[the Ferret]

Congrats you have just completed your own 600 mile service. Be sure and record date, mileage and save your receipts for warranty purposes. Not only have you saved up to $100 at your local dealership and maybe a couple days without your bike if the shop is busy, but you know your service was done right, and you've become more familiar with your bike.

If anyone notices any errors, please bring it up so we can correct it asap. Thanks.

Hope this helps some of the newbies.

Well done ferret. Whenever I do any work like that I have to add a step. Before I start I go ahead and spill a little oil on my shirt and hands Because IT 'S GONNA HAPPEN ANYWAY.

Yep...

I hate oil, hate it. Like you said, it gets on me, my tools, my garage floor, my work bench, everything that gets near it, but its a necessary evil.

It's nice to be able to do basic service work on your motorcycle though, and to be able to do it on your time schedule, and not at the mercy of the dealer which may be 100 miles away.

Trust me on this, I am not mechanically inclined, but this kind of stuff is really easy. You can do it.

 

[ron1100_imp]

Great write up. Thank you. I've always done my own service and never through a dealer.

 

[thumper_imp]

What a fantastic tutorial!!!

Thanks for taking the time to photo-record everything and share it with us.

Now, can you come to my house?

 

[Jwayne_imp]

Great write up and photos!

 

[OldF7Guy_imp]

Excellent write up. Maybe we could make a sticky out of this to help folks down the road.

 

[Guth_imp]

Excellent write up. Maybe we could make a sticky out of this to help folks down the road.

Sticky? I think this calls for an actual "How To Section".

Thanks for putting all of the effort into the writeup ferret, much appreciated! This is a great way to start off the new section.

 

[ridesalot_imp]

Nicely done ferret. The only advice I would add is for the first service to be sure to use the oem Honda oil filter. Purchase it separately so that you have a dated receipt. I purchase the oil for this first service separately also in order to have a dedicated receipt, but I use Mobil 1, 4T. After the first service I use Purolator Pure One oil filters. ( $6 at Advance Auto Parts ) I believe the # for the CB11 is PL14610 which is a 3.25" filter. PL14612, which is a 2.5", should also fit. I have not checked this filter to be sure it will fit yet. The next service is still a while away.

I remembered after I made this post that I still had my old Honda oil filter so I checked for proper fit of the Purolator, Pure-One filter. The correct model is PL14612 which is 2.5". There is not adequate clearance between the header pipes to fit the 3.25" model.

 

[terrydlargo_imp]

Great job Ferrett, and a "how to" section would be a very welcome addition to the site.

 

[the Ferret]

Couple things I noticed on re- reading ( besides the spelling and grammatical errors) but cant seem to correct due to editing issues

First when adjusting the rear chain you'll also need a 27 mm wrench or socket and ratchet on left hand side to keep axle from turning

I should have mentioned the fuse puller should be in your tool kit bag

I also forgot to post torque spec for oil filter which was I believe is 19 ft lbs

Also once you've completed the service and run the bike for a few minutes go ack and check to make sure the drain plug and filter are not leaking.

And heres the pic that goes with measuring throttle play. I am using the metric side of the ruler and it shows throttle play at 4 mm ( spec 2-6 mm)

 

[Scoobynut_imp]

Another Thank You, ferret, great write-up. Will be a good reference for all of us.

 

[the Ferret]

Nicely done ferret. The only advice I would add is for the first service to be sure to use the oem Honda oil filter. Purchase it separately so that you have a dated receipt. I purchase the oil for this first service separately also in order to have a dedicated receipt, but I use Mobil 1, 4T. After the first service I use Purolator Pure One oil filters. ( $6 at Advance Auto Parts ) I believe the # for the CB11 is PL14610 which is a 3.25" filter. PL14612, which is a 2.5", should also fit. I have not checked this filter to be sure it will fit yet. The next service is still a while away.

I remembered after I made this post that I still had my old Honda oil filter so I checked for proper fit of the Purolator, Pure-One filter. The correct model is PL14612 which is 2.5". There is not adequate clearance between the header pipes to fit the 3.25" model.

Thanks for the updated info ridesalot!

 

[CA200_imp]

Good job ferret!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[the Ferret]

*** IMPORTANT****. It has been mentioned to me that in the 5 th picture down, where I am pointing to the engine oil drain bolt, that as viewed from the side,saying to turn bolt counter clockwise could be construed as turning the bolt from left to right, therby tightening the bolt.

You want to turn the bolt counter-clockwise from head on, as if you were looking at the bolt while lying directly underneath it looking up. Remember the old adage..righty-tighty, lefty-loosey

When using a ratchet, I always check it to see if it is in the loosen or tighten mode by holding onto the socket and working the ratchet a few turns before I ever stick the socket on the bolt, so I know there is no mistake.

Sorry if there is any confusion.

 

[Lord Popgun]

In the service manual on page 3-15, before installing the new oil filter,

"If the oil filter boss is loose, applay a locking agent to the oil filter boss threads and torque to the specifed torque".

Specified torque is: 13 foot pounds.

The oil filter boss is the threaded tube the filter screws on to.

 

[the Ferret]

Gosh, I've never seen one of those loose, ever, but I guess it's worthwhile checking. I suppose you'd need 2 big nuts to lock together to check torque on that?

 

[Lord Popgun]

2 nuts is what I would figure too.

I've heard of it loosening on 4-stroke outboards, but thats about it.

Just thought I'd mention it as its in the manual. Maybe because the oil filter torque spec is so high and they though it might spin the boss out?

 

[the Ferret]

I guess thats possible. Shouldnt be an issue for me..hand tighten only