How to cuss up - broken bolt gearbox cover

R

Riko_imp

Road warrior
Thread starter
Okay, here goes my cuss up moment

I wanted to clean the inside of the gearbox cover and after doing this I wanted to tighten the 4 bolts....

I misread my SERVICE MANUAL :blush: and use a torque settinng of 54NM (wich is actually for the big bolt for the chain) although the service manual did not specify a torque setting for those 4 bolts.

The pictures so you know where I'm at: (click to enlarge)



[url=https://postimg.org/image/qed5flq4h/]

[url=https://postimg.org/image/gv3gm52m9/]

[url=https://postimg.org/image/l5i4hq7pd/]

[url=https://postimg.org/image/8s5aati0x/]


[url=https://postimage.org/app.php]screen shot windows


My bike is still in waranty but I doubt the dealer would do this for free (wich I would not blame him if I have to pay for my own stupidity) IF there is any method of unscrewing the head thats still in there? :huh::-/

FYI, the 3 other bolts can be used, although 2 of them were almost at the point of breaking too, as you can see on the picture, there is a narrow section you can see on 2 bolts.

Main concern, I want that freaking bolt out! :dodgy:


Thx everybody for any input.
 
You need the correct size bolt extractor to get the bolt out. Also, after that torque, I suggest you replace all 4 bolts.
 
I would also agree with the above. As a general rule, torque spec for a 10mm bolt is going to be between 9 and 12 foot pounds and never really ever over 15 foot pounds.
 
You need to get a small drill bit, about half the size of the bolt to start. Take your time and drill a hole as close to the center of the bolt as possible. Then get a bolt extractor. That is all the dealer or any other repair shop will do. If you have to start off with a smaller bit and work your way bigger that is fine. The main thing is you need to drill the hole in the bolt without getting in to the metal around it. Or just get 3 new bolts and leave that one the way it is, there is nothing to leak, so it will probably be fine. Your choice. Good luck.
Also I am certain that he has learned a lesson in torque specs, just sayin...
 
Get a flat spot on that broken bolt. Center punch, then drill and use bolt extractor or ezi-out. HOWEVER if you break the removal tool off in the bolt you are really in deep poop.

So if timid about it. Take it to a machine shop or a shop with experience.

THROW the other bolts out!
 
Thread starter
talked to my neighbour who works in a company that builts boat engines, so just to say, he has seen his fair part of bolts en mechanical stuff and tools .

He said, it can't be done.

The bolt it located TOO DEEP and the bolt diameter is too narrow!
That combination makes it nearly impossible.

You would need a long and narrow drill.
And a very very steady hand.

A precision drill guide would do the job perhaps, but how the hell can you do it when the bolt is on the bike...

To clearify what bolt I am talking about, look at how tiny that sucker is:



Its a national holiday so all dealers are closed and I'll have to wait for an answer to untill tomorrow, IF they answer.
But I'm coming to terms with the fact that I most likely will have to accept the fact that the broken bolt will remain inside...
 
Use #1 Speed Out Extractor. Will only allow you to go in 1/8 of in inch so you won't damage anything. Stay away from a drill bit if your unsure of your ability. Just make sure lefty when extracting or you'll lose the chance.

Our just get three new bolts with Lock Tite ( blue ) and torque to speck. If it doesn't rattle your good to go!!
 
Thread starter
no, the broken bit is in its own space, removeing that whole part you refer to wont change anything
and the dealer already answered on this holiday :thumbsup:
they already ordered some new bolts wich will arrive around tuesday

saturday they would look when to plan me in their schedule

he said it should be an easy job...
curious to know how much it will cost me
 
Won't it let you access the bolt? Am I missing something? The bolt isn't screwed into item 4, it goes into the engine. right? Thats what it looks like.

My thinking was it you remove item 4, you might have enough shank to get something on it, or easy access to drill it as it wouldn't be down it the cover hole, or take it to a welder who would tack weld a nut on it and spin it out. Do that a lot with outboards.
 
Thread starter
i assume you say if I removed item 4 there would be more space to work on?

Maybe, but very marginally, not worth it.

I had an idea from facebook :)
Use the remaining bolt as a guide to drill a hole in the stuck part :)
Since the issue here is distance (to far inside) and size (small diameter bolt, hard to center dril) drilling a hole in the remaining bolt and using that bolt as a guide should do the trick of drilling a hole in the center in the stuck part, than use a bolt extractor.

On that remaining bolt one could use precision material.
 
experience will teach you that 54 nm is a lot of torque and no way was correct for such a small bolt

experience will also teach you that you do not need to torque those bolts to an exact specification

a bit beyond snug is perfect and experience also teaches you that 'feeling'

this is a case where being too absorbed with specs resulted in a problem

no problem in the end you learned something and you will get your bike back together just fine and be back on the road

we all make mistakes and hopefully learn from them
 
Your using the rest of the bolt as a guide is intriguing, but I suspect it is going to be darned hard to drill straight down through the bolt and stay perfectly centered. It's something a machine shop should be able to do for you though.

Alternatively, could you just drill out the bolt completely (leaving the threads if possible) and then use a thread chaser to remove the bits of bolt left in the threads?
 
Hey Riko,

I had a similar problem with a bolt that sheared off in an engine case. I put the case in a pilar drill and made a dead straight hole. Then used an Eazy Out to remove the bolt. Heating the case up with a blow lamp will usually help. In that instance tho, the bolt had corroded and snapped on removal. So quite easy to get out as it wasn't over torqued like yours.

That said, in your case, and if it were me, I'd be tempted to leave it. It's a pain to strip it down just for that and there is potential for making a more drastic mistake.
Also, I don't fancy your chances. If it snapped because you were applying that much force, it's going to be well stuck in there... As said before the 3 bolts will be fine, it's only a light guard.

It looks from the pics that the bolt snapped way down the hole. If you used a shorter bolt would there be enough thread left in the hole to get a fix. You don't need much.
Actually, thinking about it, if you were tightening it then i don't suppose it could have snapped part way down the thread.... So, maybe not.
 
Thread starter
the broken piece has been removed!

I did not see how he did it so I did check it at home :blush: and yep, its gone and a new bolt is in place.

nice clean pro job!

it wasn't easy the dealer said :)
 
Riko_imp said:
the broken piece has been removed!

I did not see how he did it so I did check it at home :blush: and yep, its gone and a new bolt is in place.

nice clean pro job!

it wasn't easy the dealer said :)
Click to expand...
Great! Sometimes it's best to let the professionals handle things.
 
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