Here's the Driven Sprocket and Slider. Chain - go X or O-ring?

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Pulled the rear wheel off, broke the chain and removed the driven sprocket. I also removed the chain slider for inspection. With the drive sprocket removed, the chain off and rear wheel removed the chain slider was readily removed without removing the swing arm as recommended by the service manual.

Similar to the drive sprocket the driven sprocket is in reasonable, but worn, condition. As I had reached the limit of chain adjustment and still had over 40mm of chain slack that would indicate the chain was well and truly ....um .....er...., well, at the end of its life. The chain was also very noisy, sort of "graunching" noises when not under high load. I'm wondering whether to replace the chain with the DID or RK O-ring chain specified in the manual (mine was a DID) or go to an X-ring. The X-ring being about 75% more expensive. Anyone got any ideas?

The chain slider still had plenty of meat on it. It will go back on.

Here are some photos:

Cheers

 

[the Ferret]

I hear the X rings are better chains ( and I put one on my 750 Nighthawk a few thousand miles before I sold it so I can't verify) ... that being said it wont be 75% better if that's the cost difference. You really can't complain about the service life you got out of the stock o ring chain as the sprockets were also worn to the point of replacement.

Most bikes these days call for an endless chain. Since you decided not to remove the swingarm, you will have to use a staked chain. This isn't difficult but does require caution when affixing the staking link. Use a dial caliper for measuring the amount of compression and head size on pins of the link being staked. There is a spec on this. Compress the pins too much and it will creat a tight spot.

Either brand DID or RK make good chains. I believe I used a DID last time.

Just out of curiosity was the chain guide rubber worn to spec?

 

[Django]

The chain must not live longer than the sprockets.

When your sprockets are worn out, you would replace the chain anyway. If not, a used chain would wear out the new sprockets rapidly again.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Thanks Ferret. I am aware of chain staking requirements and have a chain tool and both verniers and micrometers. I haven't been able to track down a 530/110 chain here in OZ. 530/120 and 530/114 seem to be readily available. But I will keep trying. If I find an endless 110 I will remove the swingarm to fit it.

No the guide, or slider I guess, is good. It has lines outside the arrows as wear minimums. See the photo below of the slider I took off and you will, I hope, get my drift. There is plenty of meat left.

I think I will take your advice regarding the chain and stick with O-ring. Chain and sprocket wear are related so I wonder if an X-ring will reduce sprocket wear.

Thanks for your helpful advice.

 

[the Ferret]

Oh wow, I thought that was the new slider pad (looks new to me). Yea that appears good for a lot more miles.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

The chain must not live longer than the sprockets.

When your sprockets are worn out, you would replace the chain anyway. If not, a used chain would wear out the new sprockets rapidly again.

Thanks Django. Understood. I have already broken the chain which is kaputt. I will replace the sprockets. I am just wondering if an X-ring chain will give me longer chain life as well as longer sprocket life.

Cheers

 

[the Ferret]

Ptero like anything else in this world... tires, oil, filters, air filters, there is no one concensus. I googled it and the manufacture claims longer life, less rolling resistance etc etc for the X ring chain. Members of various forums however can't agree on this with some stating from worse to no longer life up to same and longer life. Or as my brother likes to say "This is the best/worst thing I ever bought, it's the noisiest/quietest, the least/longest wearing, runs true to size/order the next (pick one) larger/smaller size, totally waterproof/leaks like a sieve etc etc product per the reviewers.

Try an X ring, and in 5 years report back. What have you got to lose? It's only money.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

OK. In five years time expect the "Mother of all Threads". A chain thread. .

Cheers

 

[the Ferret]

:dodgy:

Somebody get this guy a definitive answer...QUICK!

 

[redbirds_imp]

Since sprockets seem to wear faster than chains it would seem a waste to spend more for an X-ring chain that will be dependent on sprocket wear as the measure of it's true service life. Good write up and pics Ptero.

 

[Motogeezer1949_imp]

Perhaps I just missed it, but - how many miles are currently on the chain and sprockets?

 

[noroomtomove]

Let me mention zone maintenance in this concept you do all the maintenance related to a system / zone when a component in that zone / system needs TLC. So when the chain is worn replace it (with what the OEM recommends) and at least inspect the rest or vice versa, while you're there why not refresh the whole system it's still some what less costly that doing the full monty on a shaft drive.

Last Blast has done the miles (km) and recall the Bairnsdale TLC the chain got on the way home from PI at the right price.

How many KM did you get out of the chain and would you call yourself a regular provider of care to you Last Blasts drive train.

Do you apply hubris chain lube?

 

[Cormanus]

Do you apply hubris chain lube ... is there any other kind?

 

[Lord Popgun]

Cormanus, Didn't you get arrested in Deals Gap for smuggling that stuff?

 

[the Ferret]

I believe he said in another thread 55,000 kms or a little over 34,000 miles

 

[Cormanus]

Cormanus, Didn't you get arrested in Deals Gap for smuggling that stuff?

Mate, I'm a victim not a purveyor of that stuff. See here. I suppose that's why I got arrested. Villains like Dr Dactyl nearly always get away.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Perhaps I just missed it, but - how many miles are currently on the chain and sprockets?

Just a shade over 55,000kms.

Cheers.

 

[wiredgeorge_imp]

Newbie here. What the heck is a chain slider? What does it do? I have owned a couple bikes and none have had a chain slider? Second question... I won't argue the merits of an endless chain vs one that is staked vs one with a master link. I am guessing the service manual calls for an endless chain. They all do. Why pull off the swingarm? Can't you just remove the rear wheel to fit the endless chain? Third: The owners manual doesn't tell you what type chain nor the number of links is used. Is it 530 chain with 110 links? Anyone actually tried a masterlink? I have used masterlinks on many bikes in the past. Just curious. Last... Also, I have not remove the outer countershaft sprocket cover... is there an inner cover for safety?

 

[the Ferret]

Welcome to the 21st century lol

A chain slider is a rubber pad that the chain will slide on rather than sliding on the swingarm.

They have not recommended clip style master links for many years on streetbikes..going back to the 90s. main issue with clip style master links is them being installed correctly. It is a bit more difficult than it used to be because of the addition of 4 orings, 2 on each pin. A properly installed clip style masterlink would obviously be strong enough on an 88 horsepower bike since they were used on drag bikes producing much more horsepower than that, however manufacturers know an endless chain is the safest and strongest for the consumer who may not be as mechanically adept as a drag racing mechanic.

A lot of bikes require the swingarm to be removed to replace an endless chain. Looking at the service manual the CB1100 actually calls for a staked o ring chain, so no need to remove the swingarm. Break the old chain, put the new chain on, and use a staking tool to affix the new Oring master link.

The CB1100, at least the 2013 covered in my manual calls for a DID50ZVM2
Or an RK50LFOZ2. 110 links

 

[flynrider]

I have always used DID O-ring chains and never had a complaint. Last year when I replaced the chain on the CB750, i found that they had phased out the O-ring chains for X-rings in the 525 size. I've only put about 4K miles on that one (with one adjustment) and it seems to be wearing as good or better than the old O-ring.

I used a rivet type master link, which is fine if you have the right tools and knowledge to install it correctly. Prior to that I'd used mostly clip master links on all of my bikes. As the Ferret said, they work, but proper installation is the key. I never had one fail on me, but have seen friends have failures and it was always due to improper installation. The most common issues are improper installation of the O-rings and not pressing the link plate hard enough to expose the groove for the clip to seat properly.