HELP GAUGE REMOVAL /CUSTOM TACH

[wanobiben_imp]

[/QUOTE]

That's my interpretation, but i would read it carefully. The original post was over 4 years ago, and they haven't posted since. You might try contacting them directly.

We don't know if your premature rev-limiter is caused by your particular gauge, or incompatibility of the bike's ECM.

[/QUOTE]

I've been doing some digging on this forum and I'm pretty sure it's because my original speedometer isn't sending a signal to the ECU anymore. From what I understand the signal goes from the speed sensor to the stock meter then to the ECU. The stock meter acts as a translator to the ECU. Without that speed sensor reading the ECU has a sort of failsafe that limits the rpms to 5,000. I could be wrong, but I've been reading about others having a similar issue with the 2014's. That's why I think they just swapped the 2014 ECU to a 2013 on this thread to eliminate that issue without having to reflash the ECU.

If I can't find another work around I plan to do some digging into Arduino boards and programming it to receive the speed sensor signal and translate it into a reading the ECU can understand. Who knows how long that will take me though seeing as I'm not a programmer and I don't have any programmer friends. I'll also have to figure out what signal or language the Honda ECU needs to communicate.

 

[pekingduck]

The problem may be the particular model of universal instrument that works on anything from 2-stroke scooters up. These units are designed and made where singles and twins predominate.

I applaud the efforts you have been making. But before any further expense, try re-attaching the stock gauges, and unplugging the rear wheel speed sensor. That could validate your theory.

I can't recall an incident where a faulty speed sensor circuit (mostly bent pulser rings) caused a lowered rev limit.

And how did we get from your original post to this one?

 

[wanobiben_imp]

The problem may be the particular model of universal instrument that works on anything from 2-stroke scooters up. These units are designed and made where singles and twins predominate.

I applaud the efforts you have been making. But before any further expense, try re-attaching the stock gauges, and unplugging the rear wheel speed sensor. That could validate your theory.

I can't recall an incident where a faulty speed sensor circuit (mostly bent pulser rings) caused a lowered rev limit.

And how did we get from your original post to this one?

Good points. We got here because I was digging around in another thread of someone who modded their speedometer and ran into similar issues, lol.

The only problem I have with reattaching the original speedometer is that I’ll have to clip the original wire connectors off and install bullet connectors on each wire. Which, I guess doesn’t matter much now since I already clipped the connectors that go to the bike unless I wanted to sell the stock speedometer separately sometime.

 

[Cormanus]

Well … Lord Popgun or someone may be able to tell you where to get the opposite of the OEM connectors so you could make bridging cables.

 

[wanobiben_imp]

Well … Lord Popgun or someone may be able to tell you where to get the opposite of the OEM connectors so you could make bridging cables.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.

 

[pekingduck]

Well … Lord Popgun or someone may be able to tell you where to get the opposite of the OEM connectors so you could make bridging cables.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.
If we could convince someone to unplug their rear wheel speed sensor on their 2014 standard, we could determine if that is the cause. I'm not sure doing so on an ABS model would be valid.

 

[wanobiben_imp]

Well … Lord Popgun or someone may be able to tell you where to get the opposite of the OEM connectors so you could make bridging cables.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.
If we could convince someone to unplug their rear wheel speed sensor on their 2014 standard, we could determine if that is the cause. I'm not sure doing so on an ABS model would be valid.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.
If we could convince someone to unplug their rear wheel speed sensor on their 2014 standard, we could determine if that is the cause. I'm not sure doing so on an ABS model would be valid.

I talked with Honda and they didn’t have any suggestions. I also talked to a local guy who dyno’s motorcycles for a living and he was stumped.

I ended up just reinstalling the stock speedo. It now has it’s original RPM range and works just like it should.

Thanks everyone for all of the troubleshooting tips! Until I can figure out how to program an Arduino (or something similar) to read the stock speed sensor and send the correct signal to the ECU, I’m keeping it stock. I’ll send an update to this thread if I ever figure it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Cormanus]

Thanks for the update, wanobiben. I hope you succeed.

I wonder whether it might be worth contacting Doh Guhl—the guy who used to reflash CB1100 ECUs. You never know.

 

[pekingduck]

Well … Lord Popgun or someone may be able to tell you where to get the opposite of the OEM connectors so you could make bridging cables.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.
If we could convince someone to unplug their rear wheel speed sensor on their 2014 standard, we could determine if that is the cause. I'm not sure doing so on an ABS model would be valid.

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.
If we could convince someone to unplug their rear wheel speed sensor on their 2014 standard, we could determine if that is the cause. I'm not sure doing so on an ABS model would be valid.

I talked with Honda and they didn’t have any suggestions. I also talked to a local guy who dyno’s motorcycles for a living and he was stumped.

I ended up just reinstalling the stock speedo. It now has it’s original RPM range and works just like it should.

Thanks everyone for all of the troubleshooting tips! Until I can figure out how to program an Arduino (or something similar) to read the stock speed sensor and send the correct signal to the ECU, I’m keeping it stock. I’ll send an update to this thread if I ever figure it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I may end up getting a breadboard and some jumper wires. I’ve been meaning to get one anyway.
If we could convince someone to unplug their rear wheel speed sensor on their 2014 standard, we could determine if that is the cause. I'm not sure doing so on an ABS model would be valid.

I talked with Honda and they didn’t have any suggestions. I also talked to a local guy who dyno’s motorcycles for a living and he was stumped.

I ended up just reinstalling the stock speedo. It now has it’s original RPM range and works just like it should.

Thanks everyone for all of the troubleshooting tips! Until I can figure out how to program an Arduino (or something similar) to read the stock speed sensor and send the correct signal to the ECU, I’m keeping it stock. I’ll send an update to this thread if I ever figure it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks for following through with a conclusion, albeit not the one you wanted. I would be very interested to know if unplugging the rear wheel speed sensor is indeed the cause of the premature rev limiter. Maybe we can figure this out.

 

[wanobiben_imp]

Just unplugged the speed sensor to test it out and it went well above 5,000 rpm. Now I’m wondering if it has something to do with the gear indicator.

 

[pekingduck]

Just unplugged the speed sensor to test it out and it went well above 5,000 rpm. Now I’m wondering if it has something to do with the gear indicator.

If the centerstand is still on it, you can test it all in place without actually riding it.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Some good persistence there wanobiben.

 

[ymtnpoah11_imp]

"Just get aftermarket gauges," said several people to me, "oem are $$$."

I have a broken tach and this thread has been super-helpful! Many thanks. Some of you went the extra miles for sure.

2014 std

Will a 14 dlx assembly work on a std? I'd like green faces if I can swing it.

 

[Lord Popgun]

YM,

I going to say no. A quick look at the wiring diagrams shows that the ‘14 speed sensor goes to the tach as VSP+ and -. On the Deluxe, the front and rear speed sensors go to the ABS modulator. The tach does not have VSP inputs.

 

[max]

To those who want to know what signal is produced by the rear wheel " abs " speed sensor here is a screenshot of it from my oscilloscope screen ( including the glare, sorry ).
The sensor has 10 volts supplied to it and when the wheel rotates the sensor pulls the 10 volts down to 7.5 volts to produce a 2.5volt peak to peak signal when the slots pass under the sensor which is connected to the speedometer in the cluster.
The reason the signal is not pulled down to 0 volt is because the internal circuitry of the sensor needs at least 5 volt to operate hence the pulldown to 7.5 volts,
The measurement was made by connecting two probes into the 2 pole connector behind the right hand sidecover and switching the ignition on and centerstand deployed.
The blue wire of the sensor is the positive and the white wire is connected to chassis ground at the instrument cluster.
I suspect a similar voltage pattern will be produced when the sensor is connected to an abs unit but since i don't have abs i can't verify this, here is the screenshot;



Not picture perfect but the essentials are there.
Cheers

 

[peterbaron]

Thanks Max

 

[Lord Popgun]

Max, Here is a link to the video I made of the speed sensor output on my scope.

My results seem slightly different than yours. Here is the thread where we discussed it: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15452&highlight=speed+sensor

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

To those who want to know what signal is produced by the rear wheel " abs " speed sensor here is a screenshot of it from my oscilloscope screen ( including the glare, sorry ).
The sensor has 10 volts supplied to it and when the wheel rotates the sensor pulls the 10 volts down to 7.5 volts to produce a 2.5volt peak to peak signal when the slots pass under the sensor which is connected to the speedometer in the cluster.
The reason the signal is not pulled down to 0 volt is because the internal circuitry of the sensor needs at least 5 volt to operate hence the pulldown to 7.5 volts,
The measurement was made by connecting two probes into the 2 pole connector behind the right hand sidecover and switching the ignition on and centerstand deployed.
The blue wire of the sensor is the positive and the white wire is connected to chassis ground at the instrument cluster.
I suspect a similar voltage pattern will be produced when the sensor is connected to an abs unit but since i don't have abs i can't verify this, here is the screenshot;



Not picture perfect but the essentials are there.
Cheers

Nice max.

This is the base line signal from the ABS encoder during normal rotation?

How is the signal elongated during a "wheel lock event"? i.e. an image of the signal

 

[max]

See what you mean Popgun, your version looks a lot better and i did not know ( or forgot ) you made it.
Will check again tomorrow and see what i did wrong with the help of your description.
Also noticed the polarity seemed upside down but just reversed the probe cables to show positive voltage, i will check that too, thanks for the heads-up.

GO i'm gonna guess that the abs detects a difference in frequency between the two wheels when the brake switch is on and releases the slowest wheel's bypass ( outlet ) valve before the wheel even stops spinning and modulates the two valves between two programmed frequencies to maintain road contact but applies maximum available traction on the brake rotor(s) or;

Scenario two; it detects a sudden drop in either wheel independent from each other and modulates the valves accordingly when the brake switch is on during braking which makes it important that both brake switches are in good condition in order for the abs to function as expexted.

Have not studied the finer details of this part of operation so i could be wrong here, this is just my best answer to you.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

No problem max. Wasn't referring to the consumption of the signal, but the change in frequency of the signal with a wheel event. I suppose it is a moot point.