HELP GAUGE REMOVAL /CUSTOM TACH

911jimmy_imp

First service completed
Thread starter
Hi,

we are completing this collision repair/ custom build and its looking so nice...

GOT ONE MAJOR ISSUE!!! BIKE DOESNT RUN WITHOUT STOCK GAUGES!

The only info we can really find is it has something to do with the communication line between the ECU and stock gauges.

THERE MUST BE A WAY TO MAKE IT WORK ? RESISTORS ? JUMPERS ?

can anyone help please?

I have attached the images of the bike and its so close to being finished up !!
 
What year bike? The ‘14 and up use a serial data communication line between the ECU and the gauges. Resistors and jumpers are not going to help with that.
 
Thread starter
Sorry it's the 2014 ..

So theres absolutely no way ever to make it work ?

What would the Japanese do?
 
I don’t know. On the diagrams it shows the rear wheel speed sensor and ABS modulator (if you have ABS) going to the combination meter (the gauges) then a bidirectional serial data line to/fm the ECM. And a separate TACHO line from the ECU to the meters.

Book says the ECM sends High oil temp indicator signal, Engine speed signal, MIL signal, and fuel pulse signal to the meters. The meter sends rear wheel speed senson signal to the ECM. All over the serial data line.

The 13’s work differently.

I don’t know why there is a TACHO line if engine speed data comes across the data line.

I’m not really going to be able to help you with customizing the electronics here. Other than whats in the service manual, we have no real data on operation.
 
Stuff em under the seat.
65cb442663915ae910f535cf17d27efb.png



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thread starter
What if we swapped all the electronics from the 13? Does a 13 run with the stock gauges unplugged ????

Anyone know or can they try and see what happens ?

Thanks so much
 
I've a 2011 which I think is the same as the 2013. If it's easy to unplug the gauges—I'm a mechanical klutz—I'll try for you.

Could someone tell me how to do it?
 
Cormanus, you have to remove the headlight and unplug 3 connectors in the shell. If you want to do this, let me know and I’ll shoot you a pic from the service man that shows them.

The bike is not going to be right though. If nothing else the ECM will lose the speed sensor data. I didn’t look for anything else.
 
I'll try for the guy, popgun. Could you sent the pics, please?
 
Cormanus,

On the way. If the resolution isn’t enough when you expand the pic, let me know. I sent it lower than full res (~561KB) Full res is 2.2Mb.
 
Thanks, popgun. All good this end. I'll report in due course.
 
Cormanus,

I made a mistake. That was for the 14 model. Our bikes only have 2 connectors. Misread the man. Glad I looked at the wiring diagram.

Its the same though, only just remove 1 and 2. We don’t have connector 3

I just shot you the right manual page.
 
Thanks popgun. Of course there are at least 3 x 6P connectors. I've emailed you.
OK. With heaps from help from the ever-generous popgun, I think I've isolated the instrument cluster by disconnecting it. There is no action on the instruments when I switch on the cluster, but the bike starts fine. I've not ridden it.

Just to be clear—because, as I say, there are 3x6P connectors in the headlight shell one of which has to be disconnected along with a 10P connector, and because I'm no expert at these things—I disconnected the 10P connector (easy; there's only one of it) and a white 6P connector on the basis of the fact that they appear to exit the headlight shell bundled in the same wrapping.

If there's something wrong with that logic, I will go and have another look.
 
911jimmy_imp said:
Sorry it's the 2014 ..

So theres absolutely no way ever to make it work ?

What would the Japanese do?
They would use the stock gages.

If you were to tear apart the gage housing, you would find computer circuitry needed to process the bike's data critical to operation.

If you were really clever you could remove only the circuit boards needed, put them into a small, separate housing, and locate that inconspicuously somewhere, like, under the seat. Run the CANBUS line to it and connect everything exactly the same as if it were the gage cluster.

The mechanical gages don't need to be connected, but, who knows how they've been integrated into the circuitry? The whole thing may be nearly impossible.

Just use the stock gages because a bike that don't run ain't much.;)
 
Just so everyone knows, the wiring diagram and manual do not tell the connector color of the 6P. I did send him the wire colors...
 
No, he knows that. He said in an email to me that they considered using a ‘13 harness on a 14 bike if all would be good with the meters gone. It won’t all be good. Your suggestion above would be better. Much better.
 
This forum is amazing. Some cat pokes his head in here with a strange modification question (which, on this forum could be shunned) and Cormanus runs out to his garage to help the guy out. Not only does Cormanus not know exactly what he's doing but also has to get into his headlight bucket, never a fun place to be. I gotta say, that is a very generous act sir. Very, very well played. Simply awesome.
 
Thank you, Bheezy, but I could not have done it without popgun’s help. In my view, Jimmy should leave the gauges alone, but, hey, it’s his bike.
 
Agreed that popgun helped as well but he just pressed a few buttons. You sir went above and beyond and turned a wrench or two. I would rather go to the dentist then get in the headlight bucket. I've never been in the CB's but if it is like any other bike I've had (can't imagine it's not) it's no fun.

Don't down play it. A random clown joins the forum to ask a rather strange question and you drop everything and help him out. :thumbsup:

No offense to the "random clown". :D
 
Back
Top