FYI: Honda Service Bulletin on CB 1100

[AzBob_imp]

Sound like time for a science fair experiment of cooking some Honda 10w-30 on a camping grill with a deep fat frying thermometer and see what happens, but I suspect higher temps are used to cook french fries or a turkey but I never worked fast food so don't have first hand knowledge.

But I am interested in a temp gauge if someone figures it out as I never like warning lights.


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You can fry foods in vegetable oil at 300 deg F. and up, 350 deg is generally optimum for french fries, etc. A deep fat frying thermometer would certainly cover the temp range discussed in this thread.

No matter the measure, 342 degrees F is hot enough to fry a turkey, for sure. I'm no engineer, but that seems mighty hot for engine oil.
I was in some really bad stop and stop traffic the other day, I shut the engine down a couple of times in stopped traffic, temps were in the high 90s. I was watching for the oil temp warning light, and it did not light up, so I have no indication of excessive heat. However, when I got to my destination, I heard some tapping sounds coming from the engine. I was at a little over 7600 miles on the odometer, about due for the 8000 mile servicing, so I thought maybe the tapping was related to the need for the oil to be changed, or perhaps even valve adjustment, (unlikely at 8000 miles, but valve clearance is checked at 8000). When I left about an hour later, the tapping noise was there for a minute or so after start up, then faded away. Now I'm wondering if the tapping was heat related.............

I've ridden my bike in 110*F ambient temperatures in traffic without seeing an oil temp light, so you're fine. The engine definitely makes different noises depending on whether it's hot or cool, which should be expected.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Sound like time for a science fair experiment of cooking some Honda 10w-30 on a camping grill with a deep fat frying thermometer and see what happens, but I suspect higher temps are used to cook french fries or a turkey but I never worked fast food so don't have first hand knowledge.

But I am interested in a temp gauge if someone figures it out as I never like warning lights.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You can fry foods in vegetable oil at 300 deg F. and up, 350 deg is generally optimum for french fries, etc. A deep fat frying thermometer would certainly cover the temp range discussed in this thread.

No matter the measure, 342 degrees F is hot enough to fry a turkey, for sure. I'm no engineer, but that seems mighty hot for engine oil.
I was in some really bad stop and stop traffic the other day, I shut the engine down a couple of times in stopped traffic, temps were in the high 90s. I was watching for the oil temp warning light, and it did not light up, so I have no indication of excessive heat. However, when I got to my destination, I heard some tapping sounds coming from the engine. I was at a little over 7600 miles on the odometer, about due for the 8000 mile servicing, so I thought maybe the tapping was related to the need for the oil to be changed, or perhaps even valve adjustment, (unlikely at 8000 miles, but valve clearance is checked at 8000). When I left about an hour later, the tapping noise was there for a minute or so after start up, then faded away. Now I'm wondering if the tapping was heat related.............

I've ridden my bike in 110*F ambient temperatures in traffic without seeing an oil temp light, so you're fine. The engine definitely makes different noises depending on whether it's hot or cool, which should be expected.

I've ridden my bike in 110*F ambient temperatures in traffic without seeing an oil temp light, so you're fine. The engine definitely makes different noises depending on whether it's hot or cool, which should be expected.
Same same. 110degF at speed and in traffic for two whole days. No abnormal indications from the bike. I was pouring water into my mesh jacket to try to keep myself cool. And cleaning the tar off the pipes and the engine was a real bastard.

Cheers

 

[thessler3_imp]

I believe the API tests all motor oils to 102 deg. C (350 deg. F) for 100 hours. So, if your oil meets API certification, you are OK and Honda chose the correct value for the oil temperature warning. If you are nervous, use good synthetic oil as it generally has higher temperature limits. For perspective, I follow Corvette production racing and oil temperatures typically reach about 290 deg. F in race conditions in hot climates.
I believe the API tests all motor oils to 102 deg. C (350 deg. F) for 100 hours. So, if your oil meets API certification, you are OK and Honda chose the correct value for the oil temperature warning. If you are nervous, use good synthetic oil as it generally has higher temperature limits. For perspective, I follow Corvette production racing and oil temperatures typically reach about 290 deg. F in race conditions in hot climates.

 

[Ack-CB11_imp]

102 C = 215 F. Not very hot for oil.

 

[flynrider]

102 C = 215 F. Not very hot for oil.

Correct. For a liquid cooled auto engine (which is what API specs are concerned with) that's higher than you'd see on a typical hot day in traffic. Air cooled engines experience a wider range of operating temps, both on the high and low side, since it's the oil that carries the heat away.

Dino base oil stocks will start breaking down starting at temps above 250F. Synth base stocks are more heat resistant and will typically give you another 20 - 30 degrees above that.

Given that, I still think the trigger for the oil temp light on the CB1100 is ridiculously high. I don't even know of any synth oils that can withstand that temp without serious thermal breakdown. In fact, the procedure that is commonly used to test oils for thermal breakdown is done at 302F.

 

[dailyrider_imp]

My cb rattles like crazy in hot weather. I am sure it will be quite noisy at tomorrows cruise on Telegraph Rd. Stop and go & show all day. Lots of fast cars & bikes.

 

[thessler3_imp]

I apologize for a recent typo. The believe the API tests oils to 350 deg. F, which converts to about 177 deg. C. for 100 hours. Another article I read says 150 deg. C MINIMUM. The viscosity breakdown allowed is dependent on the service level for which the oil is being certified.

The API does a great job testing oils for gasoline and diesel powered cars and trucks, etcetera. I have not found any tests that are specific to motorcycles.

Avoid using oil engineered to improve gas mileage in your Honda

 

[NightRider_imp]

So...referencing the tech bulletin, are we supposed to wash the headers before starting her up on delivery? How do I know that coating is off my headers and will not burn and stain?

Is that the "hot" smell she has when she is idling? I just chalked that up to new smell...

 

[Elipten_imp]

Probably late if smelling it and ran bike. I think it posted here somewhere.

 

[the Ferret]

So...referencing the tech bulletin, are we supposed to wash the headers before starting her up on delivery? How do I know that coating is off my headers and will not burn and stain?

Is that the "hot" smell she has when she is idling? I just chalked that up to new smell...

The dealer is supposed to wash the exhaust system before starting the bike. Unless you picked up yours in the crate, this should have been done for you.

 

[Dakota_imp]

102 C = 215 F. Not very hot for oil.

Correct. For a liquid cooled auto engine (which is what API specs are concerned with) that's higher than you'd see on a typical hot day in traffic. Air cooled engines experience a wider range of operating temps, both on the high and low side, since it's the oil that carries the heat away.

Dino base oil stocks will start breaking down starting at temps above 250F. Synth base stocks are more heat resistant and will typically give you another 20 - 30 degrees above that.

Given that, I still think the trigger for the oil temp light on the CB1100 is ridiculously high. I don't even know of any synth oils that can withstand that temp without serious thermal breakdown. In fact, the procedure that is commonly used to test oils for thermal breakdown is done at 302F.

Given that, I still think the trigger for the oil temp light on the CB1100 is ridiculously high. I don't even know of any synth oils that can withstand that temp without serious thermal breakdown. In fact, the procedure that is commonly used to test oils for thermal breakdown is done at 302F.
I don't disagree with your discomfort; and I've added larger oil coolers to air cooled diesel engines. But, the manual for the engine in my truck specifies a normal oil temperature AFTER the cooler as 200°F and a maximum temperature AFTER the cooler as 260°F. Obviously, much hotter pre-cooler. This is for an engine designed in the late fifties with much poorer quality oil than we have today. Oil pressure comes up 10psi during cool down idle! Doing a search, 220°F oil temperatures are normal operation for diesels with a limit of 250°F. Maybe it isn't as big a deal as it seems.

 

[NightRider_imp]

So...referencing the tech bulletin, are we supposed to wash the headers before starting her up on delivery? How do I know that coating is off my headers and will not burn and stain?

Is that the "hot" smell she has when she is idling? I just chalked that up to new smell...

The dealer is supposed to wash the exhaust system before starting the bike. Unless you picked up yours in the crate, this should have been done for you.

The dealer is supposed to wash the exhaust system before starting the bike. Unless you picked up yours in the crate, this should have been done for you.
This reputable dealer set it up. Thank you for responding. - Art

 

[Lord Popgun]

NightRider,

Cleaning the headers is on the setup sheet the techs use. That 'hot' smell is the new bike smell. We all had it. Wish mine still did!

 

[NHCB_imp]

After seeing this service bulletin I am pretty sure my dealer did not clean my headers. Mine are terrible looking. Loaded with bad dark areas and spots. Iv seen one other Cb in person and tons of pictures. None look as bad as mine.

 

[the Ferret]

Wonder if you could clean them with something now or if it's too late and the damage is done? I'm thinking that Optiglanz guys are talking about would take care of it?

 

[ClassicVW_imp]

The Optiglanz would probably work. I used blue-b-gone and it also worked. The blue b gone is weird. It doesn't take any elbow grease but it does take 4 or 5 wipe on/wipe off applications to get them clean. Rubbing harder on an application doesn't get them any cleaner.

 

[NHCB_imp]

I was going to order the optiglnz but read somewhere that it only takes off the brown. But I think ill try it anyway. I just wonder what will happen to the paint on the engine/frame if any hits it. I will obviously try my best to not let it touch the paint but I'll be bummed if it does and messes it up.

 

[NightRider_imp]

I was going to order the optiglnz but read somewhere that it only takes off the brown. But I think ill try it anyway. I just wonder what will happen to the paint on the engine/frame if any hits it. I will obviously try my best to not let it touch the paint but I'll be bummed if it does and messes it up.

First, try taking it back to the dealer, show him the obvious failure on their part and ask for new headers. I would assume it is obvious what happened. No need for you to have to deal with this since you paid for clean headers.

 

[NHCB_imp]

That crossed my mind. But I don't think they will for 2 reasons. I have 1200 miles on it so I'm sure they'll say that's just what happens. Also when I brought the bike home I noticed the front right engine cove had a deep scratch into the metal and chiped the clear coat. I called and they said there wasn't enough profit in the bike to fix. Also some of the hardware on the bike was stripped like they used the wrong size allen. So I assume whoever assembled the bike was careless which makes me assume they didn't clean the headers. Just seems to be my luck lately.

 

[Lord Popgun]

A call to Honda of America might be in order.