Engine Guard Install Question?

linuxology_imp

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Thinking of installing the stock Honda engine guards. Is it as simple as doing one side at a time and retightening the bolts? Do they need to be torqued or is tight enough good enough? Any tips/thoughts? I have never installed anything like this on a bike before.
 
The instructions that come with the OEM engine guards do a good job of explaining each step. You'll reuse some of your existing frame bolts on the upper portion of the frame and then use the smaller supplied bolts for the lower connection. One side at a time and take your time (which won't be much) and you'll get it done. The hardest part is getting the stock bolts out. I don't remember the size (14mm?) but you'll need a decent set of box wrenches and you'll want to secure the nut on one side and then turn the bolt on the other side. It'll take a bit of force but nothing too crazy. The lower frame bolts (10mm?) are easy enough but will also require securing the nut on one side as you tighten the bolt on the other side.

The guards come with brackets for the lower attachment. There is a slot opening where the bracket affixes to the guard then the bolts secure the bottom of the bracket. It'll make sense when you see it. You'll be working near your pipes so do the install while the bike is cold. I think you'll be happily surprised with how easy this will be and you'll be ready to tackle your next project.

Given the designed purpose of the guards and the fact that they are affixed directly to your frame, I highly recommend using a torque wrench. If you don't have one, hit up your neighbor or pick one up from Amazon. It'll come in handy in the future. If you go with a torque wrench, get the foot-pound wrench. They also have inch-pound wrenches that wouldn't be a bad idea to have but won't be needed for this mod. Don't feel bad asking how to use one either (you'll probably figure it out fine on your own). Good luck and post up some pics when you're done!

Edit: Oh, one other tip - Leave the bolts a little loose until you're sure you have everything lined up properly. It helps to have the top affixed loosely while you position the bottom bracket. Then get the bottom bracket bolts affixed loosely. Finally, go back to the top and tighten the bolts to the specified measurement and end with tightening the bottom bolts to their specified measurement.
 
Thread starter
excuse my ignorance, but for securing the nut on the other side would it require another person? Also do I complete one side to include torquing before starting the other side?
 
No worries. You won't need anyone else. You just position your wrench over the nut with one hand to keep it from spinning while you loosen and remove the bolt with a separate wrench in your other hand. The largest bolt is only a few inches long.

As far as when to use the torque wrench, that's up to you. It doesn't really matter. Each side is completely independent of the other. I would suggest completely finishing one side before moving on to the other just so you don't inadvertently forget to do one side.

If any of this is still confusing, let me know and I'll snap a few pics for you to show you what I'm talking about. That will have to wait, however, until tomorrow at the earlies. Hope this helps!
 
Installed mine yesterday. The Honda Brand Engine guards are pretty self explanatory as MG said. 14 mm for the lower of the two frame bolts. 8mm for the clamp bolt and 10 mm for the clamp nut.

The only thing that threw me is that the two sides are different shapes. The curvy one goes on the right.

As MG pointed out, a project like this empowers you to do much more.

George
 
Hope to do mine this weekend.

I'm a firm believer in learning from others' mistakes, so,

Tell me, the longer of the two bolts seems to be one of the engine mounting bolts; do I need to support the engine's weight when removing it, or do the others keep it in position?
 
Takes 10 min to install, I don't even remember if mine had instructions being its so simple you don't need them. Very self explanatory, if you can turn a wrench then you can do it. If you never touched a wrench before then ask someone who has. I used some blue locktite on the lower bolt for the frame clamp. They look great on the bike and are well made.
Insolentsquid_imp said:
Hope to do mine this weekend.

I'm a firm believer in learning from others' mistakes, so,

Tell me, the longer of the two bolts seems to be one of the engine mounting bolts; do I need to support the engine's weight when removing it, or do the others keep it in position?
Just take it out, install and put back in one side at a time. Don't need to support anything. Very simple, just remove the one bolt, put the guard in place, put bolt back in and put clamp on bottom then button up nice and tight. Maybe use a little blue locktite on the bottom clamp bolt and has it.
 
The OEM ones are real nice. The bottom clamp fits the frame very well. Does not look like an after thought. I personally would not put highway pegs on, just think that would look rediculous.
 
Hi:

Let me resucitate this old thread to ask a question.

I have got the honda engine guards, and before I install them:

Do I need to put something to protect the frame, so original paint is not damaged by the engine guard, or is should be mounted directly, metal-to-metal?

My concern is to make some paint damage that could start some rusting.

Thanks!
 
I don't have the guards, but I can't see any harm in packing the clamp lightly with rubber.
 
When I mounted engine guards, there were 2 pieces of foil in the package, which I put on the frame, where the guards were directly mounted to protect the painting from being damaged. No problems since then. You also can do so.

Wisedrum
 
I have these OEM chrome guards on my '13 CB11... for 3 seasons...and when standing in thick gravel in 1st gear, I unexpectedly released clutch lever, bike stalled and I felt to L side:rofl:...thanks to these guards, only 1/2 of clutch lever broke ($30)...nothing else...continued home without problem...never regretted buying them...good quality, good look & needy!

pb
 
SW Motech guards come with black nylon nylon protectors that wrap around the frame under the clamps. I dont know if any of the other brands include them. Quite a while back I bought a 6" wide X 12' long roll of Trimbright "Bodyguard" clear self adhesive ( has peel off no stick backing ) Mylar at the auto parts store, thinking of doing a chip guard strip on the rocker panels on my car. Decided against it, but have used the stuff for all sorts of protective applications ever since. It is thick and durable enough to use to line the engine guard clamps, or wrap around the frame for under the clamps, plus it is clear. Similar to the clear tank protective film others have mentioned, but probably thicker. Have a windshield with mounts that clamp to fork tubes, or handle bars? A wrap of this stuff around the handle bar or fork tube first, will prevent marring, so if whatever is clamped on is later removed there will be no marks left behind. It is a cut to application size product, and easy to work with. My roll has lasted a long time through many applications, and just happened to be what I had on hand. I imagine the this stuff or something similar is available in a smaller quantity with a little research.
 
jtopiso_imp said:
I bought online some 3m protective poliurthane clear tape (3M 8671HS).

I will let you know how it works.
Finally I have decided to mount the engine guards directly without any foil or rubber protection. Paint on both the guards and the frame seem strong enough (I don't know if it is "kephos" or "powder coated", but looks very strong). Also, those who know the engineering behind a bolted joint will tell you that it's important for the bolt to be the most elastic part of the bolted assembly. If you clamp a flexible layer with a stiff bolt, sooner or later you will lose the preload, as there is no marging in the bolt to accomodate for the length change in the clamped assembly (rubber wears off/yields...). And a loose joint will cause fretting, thus corrosion and rust.

By the way: OEM engine guards in black look great. Like they belong there from the original design. Material, coating, welds... look great, and the "venting" holes requiered for the welding process are also positioned so they work as draining holes, so rain water won't cause rust from the inside.
 
Crikey! That bike is clean!
 
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