Disappointing Birthday Present

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Glad you got that sorted.

Cheers

 

[rboe]

I picked up a Shoari Li battery for the Quota, it went poof on a "cold" day so I went back to lead acid (then sold the bike). Called Shoari and they said "oh ya, we know about that failure mode, poor QC at the factory on a solder joint" and warrantied the battery. So now I use it to power the telescope when I'm at a star party.

Funny thing, when it arrived the first time the box felt empty. Very very light.

This type of Li ion battery can be charged as explained BUT if you do go for the special charger (a buddy has one) it can go in and charge each lithium cell properly and they are supposed to last longer. Just kinda tossing that data point out there. He is very techie (more so than me) and loves stuff like that. Wants me to come over and charge up my Li battery "properly" some time (he need help putting a fairing on his V7 Racer so I suspect a ruse ).

 

[ClassicVW_imp]

Whenever I'm suspicious that one of my bike batteries is nearing the end of the line I do my completely unscientific test...no voltmeter...but do it at home and not far out on the road! ... Turn key to ON, don't start it, and leave it there with the headlight on for say, 5 to 7 minutes. Shut key off, wait a minute and then try to start the bike as normal. What happens next will tell you if the battery is toast, just weak and may take a charge, or fine.

 

[mininsx_imp]

It's definitely the battery. I went out to the garage late last night and checked the voltage on the battery. It was down to 12.4V, not a good sign. I turned the key and the light looked bright, so I hit the starter and it started right up. Being suspicious, I immediately killed the engine by cycling the kill switch and tried to start it a second time. No go. It behaved just like it had at the post office. Bottom line, this particular failure mode gives you absolutely no clue that it's about to die. The start previous to the failure seemed normal in every respect (i.e. no slow cranking or dim lights).

When I pulled out the battery, I was stunned by how small it is. It's only about half the size of the battery in my CB750.

In looking at replacements I saw prices ranging from $170 (Yuasa) to $70 (name i never heard of) delivered for the AGM battery.

The most popular lithium ion variant is $99 delivered. Pros are that it's 5.7 lbs. lighter, not as heat sensitive, more cranking amps (290 vs. 220) and has a built in capacity gauge and tester (a big plus). Cons are that I have zero experience with these types, so I'm relying on a few hundred Internet reviews going back about 7 years.

Given my experience with the small AGM stock battery (not good), I've decided to try out the lithium ion. Ordered it this morning and it should be here by Thursday. At the very least, with it's built in gauge, this battery will tell me if it's dying an early death.

I had the same problem with my old '09 Vulcan 900 Custom. One time I had just taken it off the Battery Tender and rode to the gas station before I went on a ride and it barely turned over when I went to re-start it. I got it home and checked the battery voltage and charging system, and did a load test by connecting the meter and starting it. The voltage went below 9v which is not good at all, so I had to get a new battery. When you buy a new battery (if you have to fill it, that is) be sure to use a good battery charger to charge it. A Battery Tender doesn't have enough "oomph" to properly charge the new battery.

 

[rboe]

That needs to be seconded. A Battery Tender does not have the poop to properly charge a new battery (or a tired discharged battery). It's just to keep one topped off.

 

[Hedge_imp]

At the post office did you use the kill switch and leave the ignition (and lights) ON? It's been done before (once by me, for instance). A push start and twelve months down the track my four year old battery is still good.

Cheers

Ugggggg - I'm guilty of the kill switch mistake!

 

[rboe]

On my old Quota the tank bag, at full turn would either blow the horn (Happens on the Griso now) or trip the kill switch - first time that happened it was very embarrassing after enlisting the aid of a ton of people.

 

[Elipten_imp]

There is a model of the battery tender that is 5 amps. That should charge the battery but not as fast as 10 or 20 amps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[JustPassinThru_imp]

At the post office did you use the kill switch and leave the ignition (and lights) ON? It's been done before (once by me, for instance). A push start and twelve months down the track my four year old battery is still good.

Cheers

Ugggggg - I'm guilty of the kill switch mistake!

Ugggggg - I'm guilty of the kill switch mistake!
I've caught myself on that one...although once it was about 45 minutes after I committed the offense.

I used to own a Jeep; which meant, of course, that I used to have to buy parts from Off-Road Supply outfits. Sometimes out of necessity; and sometimes...because it's a mental illness.

But anyway. They used to have a switch that could be wired into the battery hot lead, which would kill all power if things dropped below a certain voltage. As in, you're running your winch or using lights to set up camp, and your battery drain becomes close to critical.

I never priced one out because I never figured I needed it. But I wonder if there's a compact model that would fit in the tool tray...?

Anyone want to do some research?

 

[Hedge_imp]

On my old Quota the tank bag, at full turn would either blow the horn (Happens on the Griso now) or trip the kill switch - first time that happened it was very embarrassing after enlisting the aid of a ton of people.

I enlisted a whole forum trying to troubleshoot it until some sage suggested I take a look at the kill switch position . . . :-/

 

[JustPassinThru_imp]

On my old Quota the tank bag, at full turn would either blow the horn (Happens on the Griso now) or trip the kill switch - first time that happened it was very embarrassing after enlisting the aid of a ton of people.

I enlisted a whole forum trying to troubleshoot it until some sage suggested I take a look at the kill switch position . . . :-/

I enlisted a whole forum trying to troubleshoot it until some sage suggested I take a look at the kill switch position . . . :-/
:rofl:

My first bike, a 1972 R5C...did not have a kill switch. Weren't required then. When bought my first new bike, my first "big" machine, an SR 500...yup, it had a kill switch. Which I didn't really have a habit of ever using.

So. With about two months owership, and a season and a half of total riding experience...I take my new toy on my first serious road trip, about 150 miles away. Backroads the whole way. I stop for gas at a little shop in a little town where the proprietor is straight out of a parody movie...and then, set the kick-starter up, roll the engine through until the white dot on the camshaft shows through the little window...kick...nothing.

Repeat times seven. Now I'm winded...and panicking...

...and the crusty old-timer suggests, dryly, that maybe I ought to check the kill switch. Which of course was off.

I have never forgotten that.