dead battery ?? maybe not.

[DJS_imp]

went to start the bike the other day and the battery was dead.
charged it up and the bike still wouldn't start.
bought a new battery, installed and charged it. bike started up.
went to start bike today and battery didn't have enough to start the engine.
battery back on charger.

so it seems it might not be a bad battery but a draw from the bike.

i am not sure where to start to troubleshoot.
any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

 

[Outlander427_imp]

I think I would take the battery back to be tested

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[alprider]

installled any new electric parts ?

 

[TCinNC_imp]

I've bought new batteries in the past and had them fail immediately. I would get it tested.

 

[Razor]

Taking the battery back and having it load tested would verify its condition. If the battery passes; I'd take a voltage reading of the battery (fully charged), then connect the battery. You should only see a very small difference (I'm guessing about 1/10 of a volt). If it's greater; come back in an hour and see what the voltage is. If you have a draw or short; it'll be quite a bit less.

Good luck, let us know what you find.

 

[DJS_imp]

nothing new has been added to the bike.
i will have both batteries load tested.

thanks

 

[LongRanger_imp]

I've never seen it in real life, but I've read that if a new battery is not fully charged before use, or if it's charged too quickly, it may not properly hold a charge. I believe the manufacturers recommend the charging rate not exceed 1/10 of the battery's capacity (in amps). So, a 14 amp battery should not be charged at a rate exceeding 1.4 amps/hour. Happy to stand corrected if this is incorrect.

 

[DJS_imp]

battery was on a battery tender showing fully charged when i got home.
went to start it and wouldn't start.
removed battery to take to get load tested.
local autoparts place can't/won't test motorcycle batteries.
now what do i do?
i have one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html
i can also video what happens when i try to start it if that helps.

thanx

 

[Lord Popgun]

LR, when a battery is charged too quickly it gets what is called a surface charge. And that is not a fully charged battery.

Assuming the battery is good—

DJS, using that multimeter you can measure parisitic ( or leakage) current draw. It should be very low. If not, you have to disconnect circuits until you find the one pulling current, then repair it.

According to the service manual the leakage current should be 0.1a max. That is 100 milliamps. That would be how much is being drawn with the bike ignition switch off and do not turn it on while the meter is hooked up.

If more is being drawn then you would have to find what is drawing it, and fix it.

Do you know how to do this? Do you know how to use the meter? If not I can help you with that.

 

[Houtman_imp]

What make battery is it, even some of the best could be duds let alone some of the off make ones.

 

[DJS_imp]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YVL...UTF8&psc=1
this is the battery i got as from this thread [URL=https://cb1100forum.net/threads/67244/]http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=10799

i will let the battery charge up again then test with the meter.

 

[Houtman_imp]

That seems very cheap, I paid $ 140 for my Yuasa !
I hope that it is a good battery ,cheap is never good and good is never cheap .

 

[Pauley]

Agreed. I bought a cheap lithium battery a few months ago and it bit me when I went to start my bike to go home from work. Got a refund and bought a OEM Yuasa.

 

[MM300_imp]

That seems very cheap, I paid $ 140 for my Yuasa !
I hope that it is a good battery ,cheap is never good and good is never cheap .

Same here.

 

[curlyjoe]

Here is a link to Yuasa instructions for testing a battery and charging system with a voltmeter.

As per instructions, wait at least an hour after charging to perform the tests.

Another load test that I do is to connect the voltmeter and turn on the ignition (lights on) and monitor the voltage for a minute. The voltage should remain steady. If it drops rapidly and continues to drop, then the battery is bad.

 

[DJS_imp]

its not the battery.
took them to my car mechanic.
old battery tested bad, new battery tested good and he charged the new one for me too.

put the new battery in and it still didn't want to start.
held the starter down for a while and the engine caught, then died.
tried again and no go.
next i tried it with throttle partially open . started up then when i released the throttle it died.
repeated that again but kept on the throttle to let it rev a bit. let off the throttle and it was idling. tried to give it more gas and it died.
it was reminding me of the description of the bikes with the low idle condition. and i sort of remember there being mention of it possibly occurring with a bad battery.
so i tried one more time to get it and keep it running.
this time it worked so i hopped on for a short ride.
no issues while riding, turned it off and on again fine.
got home and parked it up.
will see what happens tomorrow morning when i try to go to work.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

I'm no mechanic and I don't play one on TV, but from here it sounds like clogged fuel injectors. Has the bike been sitting with stale gas? If so, topping it off with some fresh gas and a liberal dose of fuel treatment (Seafoam, etc.) may get things going again. If so, let's hope that's all it is.

 

[DJS_imp]

the bike rarely sits, but i did recently fill the tank.
i will add seafoam

 

[Lord Popgun]

I’ll go with LR on this one. You could have gotten some not so good gas, or maybe a shot of water. Try the additive and ride it to clear it out.

 

[DJS_imp]

added injector cleaner and stabilizer this morning.
started right up , no issue.
hopefully no more issues.