Dart Flyscreen

regularworkingdad_imp

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I apologize if this is a redundant thread, but I looked , and could not find it.
I just ordered a Dart Fly Screen. I almost ordered a National Cycle shield, but I noticed that people were cutting them down, so that they liked them more. So thinking they looked a little big on the bike, I opted for the Dart Fly Screen.
My question to those of you using the Dart is, do you like it, and how hard was it to install. It mentioned that it comes with a new headlight mount. My concern is having to re align the headlight.
 
Love my Dart. Well made. Looks good. Easy to install. You will need to refocus the headlamp because both side screws will be removed during the installation process and the headlamp will be moved around. Here's how I adjusted the headlamp. Once it's dark enough outside If you have a long driveway pick out a spot and remember it exactly and set your bike on the center stand about 15 yards away and shine the headlamp on your garage door or the back of the garage (Which is what I did to give me enough distance). I taped a sheet of paper that had a large + I made exactly were the beam center was (kinda like a scope reticle). I then wheeled the bike in the garage and put the Dart Screen on, Wheeled it back out to the same exact spot on the center stand and then fine tuned the headlamp. I will say I think I like the look of the Dart Fly screen mounts (which replace the Honda Light mounts) better than the stock ones.
 
Dad, You can have more than one screen--its legal :P I use my Road Comet when its warm and put on the NC EX when it cools off. I'm not the only one who swaps screens.

I never had the Dart, but did have a Puig Plus and was surprised how well it worked. I think you will like the Dart. And heck, if not, well that's why we have a for sale section :D

One hint. The headlight is held into the shell by 2 screws, and has a "hook" that goes into a plastic slot on the shell at the top. Do not pull the bottom of the headlight out too far before lifting it out of the slot. Don't want to break it.
 
here ya go RWD ...

Adjusting your headlight beam

the headlight really needs to be adjusted on high beam for each individual (because differing suspension settings and differing rider weights compress the suspension changing where the beam hits (note add a passenger the rear squats down and the beam aims higher ). Adjust it on high beam because it is the most important beam especially if you ride out in the country on poorly lit roads. Usually low beam is used, where there is other ambient lighting. The two beams are fixed so adjust to the most important one.
 
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Dad, You can have more than one screen--its legal :P I use my Road Comet when its warm and put on the NC EX when it cools off. I'm not the only one who swaps screens.

I never had the Dart, but did have a Puig Plus and was surprised how well it worked. I think you will like the Dart. And heck, if not, well that's why we have a for sale section :D

One hint. The headlight is held into the shell by 2 screws, and has a "hook" that goes into a plastic slot on the shell at the top. Do not pull the bottom of the headlight out too far before lifting it out of the slot. Don't want to break it.
Am I to understand from these instructions that the nuts inside the headlight bucket are not captive and that they will fall out of position as soon as you remove the two bolts that hold the bucket to the stock headlight brackets? The Dart instructions don't suggest that the light itself needs to be removed from the bucket, or is that implied and necessary?

Thanks in advance!
 
The nuts are sorta captive. They are welded to a wire clamp that fits into a space with ridges. ( sorry I can't remember exactly how well they are held in the space). Between the ridges, and the wire bundle they are mounted on the nut USUALLY doesn't move out of position. Somewhere here I have a pics of the inside of a shell. Let me see if I can find it.

OK, here it is: Buzzing Instrument Cluster Blow the pics up and you can see how it works.
 
Thanks Popgun!

Like you, my headlight bucket is stuffed full of foam to prevent buzzing, so hopefully the nuts stay in place when I experiment with a Dart in the future.
 
Mine got to where they didn't want to stay in place when I was fitting my old Puig Plus. After I took those pics, I went back and wrapped all the connectors.

I would imagine that you could put a dab of silicone to hold them in place if its a problem. Silicone or some such would be flexible enough to allow some movement as you tighten up the bolts. Or I just made sure the wire bundles hold them in the right place :)
 
The nuts inside will move if you move things around. Or, if you try to put the bolts back in and miss you could push them in. I removed the headlight bulb, put bolts in place and put hot glue around the nuts inside to keep them in place.

Sent from me......
 
I just installed the Marlin fly screen, I have everything working but the 2017 bracket installation was far from easy. The new brackets you must use require removing the turn signals and running the wires thru them. I got the brackets on and while I was in the headlight bucket I added aux power to the handle bars for usb power. I now have the issue where the headlight vibrates to much and riding at night is not fun. Any suggestions on how to stop the bouncing? Thank you, Mike Giumenti 2017 CB 1100 EX. Note the 2016 and 2017 brackets are completely different because of the way they mounted the headlight, I think the 2016 design is better than the 2017...
 
I like my StreetShield EX. I'm a bit taller so need the extra coverage. The mounting/install WAS a little funky, they have this rod/ball and socket mechanism to mate the shield to the bars which seemed like it might be shaky, but I've tested it at extreme speeds (WooHoo!) and the mounting and shield are solid... Nice thing is there are 4 mounting points with it instead of others that use only 2...
 
I have the Dart Classic, looks "right" and functions great.
Placed rubber shims at corners of instruments to eliminate vibration buzzing as unable to adjust it out.
It now makes the bike friendly up to 80 or so.
 
Just installed my Dart Flyscreen a week ago. When it was shipped initially they sent two right side headlight brackets instead of right and left. I sent an email and they responded immediately with apologies and shipped another set of mounting brackets. Great customer service. One suggestion that is in the mounting instructions is to mark your headlight position before removing the stock bracket since you change one side at a time anyway. During my time as a licensed motorcycle safety inspector in my state we checked headlight alignment by placing the bike 25 ft. from a wall and the beam intersecting a line 3 ft. up from the floor.
 
3k that measurement is ok for cars, but really doesn't work forr bikes very well. Stock supensions are all the same on all model year CB 1100s, When someone climbs on, their suspension compresses, and it compreeses differering amouts if you weigh 120, 220 or 350 with a passenger. There is no way single spec can accomodate all those different scenarios. Each headlight should be adjusted to each individuals needs, and I suggest forgetting low beam and adjusting your motorcycle headlight to high beam. When on low beam there is generally other ambient light around like street lights, other vehicle headlights, store front lighting, and the low beams importance is minimized. But when you get out in the country, with the absence of ambient light, the high beam's importance becomes paramount and it should be adjusted to give you the brightest, furthest down the road lighting.take the time to go out on a straight black road on a moonless night and set your high beam ( if you normally carry a passenger, make sure they are there with you)
 
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