Clutch Lever Full Engagement

Doubt this helps, but when looking at the service manual troubleshooting for the clutch--

Clutch will not disengage or motorcycle creeps with clutch disengaged

Air in hydraulic system
Low fluid level
Hydraulic system leaking or clogged
Loose clutch center lock nut
Oil level too high
Improper oil viscosity
Damaged clutch lifter mechanism
Clutch lifter piece installed improperly

Thats all I got :)
 
If you look at the values of the measurements in post 7 how do they compare with your situation?

Especially the beginning of the clutch plates travel right after the freeplay is key here.

Very little point looking at the plates, you have to feel the movement with your finger ( WITH THE ENGINE OFF, I'm learning :P ) because it is very small in the beginning of the travel , all you want to do is establish at what point the travel starts.

I can see if i can somehow measure the total travel of my clutch plates if you wish.

On a sidenote; which engine oil has been used?

For instance my old cb550 shifts into neutral easier when the engine is cold; no idea why.
 
max_imp said:
If you look at the values of the measurements in post 7 how do they compare with your situation?

Especially the beginning of the clutch plates travel right after the freeplay is key here.

Very little point looking at the plates, you have to feel the movement with your finger ( WITH THE ENGINE OFF, I'm learning :P ) because it is very small in the beginning of the travel , all you want to do is establish at what point the travel starts.

I can see if i can somehow measure the total travel of my clutch plates if you wish.

On a sidenote; which engine oil has been used?

For instance my old cb550 shifts into neutral easier when the engine is cold; no idea why.
Click to expand...
So does my CB1100.
 
pekingduck_imp said:
Any chance the grip is a fatter than stock one, or a heated grip?
Click to expand...
Yes, but I even took the grip off and have a bare handlebar at this time.
Youse guys are great hangin' with me with this. Garsh, Thanks
 
On that happy note i measured the travel of my clutch, see picture;



Also used a borescope to make a video but in true chinese fashion it recorded a nice green screen on my tablet.
However i could clearly see the clutch plates moving closeup when looking at the tablet before the recording and found that the travel started indeed as soon as the pressure buildt up in the handle, remember this is very close-up and on a 10 inch screen and as mentioned before this initial movement can be clearly felt by my little finger.

The travel measured close to 1.8 mm on my calipers, i had to find the right spot with the stem of the calipers and rest the calipers base in the filler opening so they would be steady enough to read both readings on the scale as i pulled the lever in.

What more can i say?
 
OK, latest attempt in between life getting in the way. I took off the slave cylinder, clamped it lightly in a small vise and pushed the piston all the way in. I can move it by hand btw. All seems to be in good shape, it springs back to "home" position. I then held the cylinder on a bench higher than the master and vacuum bleed again.
No change, still drags like crazy. I put it in gear motor not running, pull the clutch and I can barely move the wheel but looses up as I rotate it. I wonder if previous owner warped the plates or I made it worse but I'm not sure.
Just guessing, it looks like the pressure plate moves about the same 1.8mm distance as Max reported.
I may be going in or looking for a larger diameter master. I have never had so much issue with this issue before. Hmmmm, TM
 
Test condition: hydraulic circuit is sealed
1.Remove the slave cylinder (do not disconnect from hydraulic line) and lock it solid by a wise grip or clamp in a manner that its movement is 99.9% prevented
if not possible
2. Block your clutch hose as close as possible to the slave cylinder
3. Carefully applied your clutch lever, is it solid, soft, spongy, so-so, funny... or????
Note:
* do not press too hard on the clutch lever as you may damage something
* when you gain access to the clutch slave, check if any (3) of M6 loooong bolts is loose, stripped or something else in that area looks suspicious, is bent or damage, worn push rod or its seat ...maybe someone was there before you ??
 
Just a thought, Sounds like the fluid is still partially pressurized in the system.

1. Drain the fluid from inside the master cylinder until you can see the base of the reservoir.
2. There should be a small (very tiny) hole (Compensating Port) on top of the piston bore.
3. Make sure that this compensating port (tiny hole) is not clogged with debris by pushing a very tiny drill or metal rod bit through.

Note:
This compensating port hole must be free of any dirt/debris so that the fluid can return back to the master reservoir.
Do not change the size of the Compensating Port hole diameter.
Careful not to damage the piston bore by cleaning it afterward.

Hope it helps.
 
Thanks guys, but I'm not new at this, I have checked all those things. It's only got 15k on the bike, I flushed it shortly after buying it (2018) and all is very clean at present. I can see the piston going back and forth as I pump it, one attempt had bubbles coming back up through the port when wiggling the lever. That is an OLD trick. It improved from where I started on THAT attempt but it has never gone to good.
Still searching. Thanks to all. I looked up TSB's on this but nothing. Has anyone else had this much trouble??
TM
 
I'll stand to be corrected STLTHSTA, but I don't recall reading about a problem like this on this forum.
 
I re-read the original complaint, and had overlooked the fact that he uses 2 fingers to activate the clutch. The straight, full length design of the lever blades means that 2 presumably gloved fingers are trapped underneath, preventing the lever from coming within 3/4" of the bar. Perhaps the bike is functioning as designed.

Shorty levers, or possibly dog-leg levers may be an answer. With RLETs of course.
 
pekingduck_imp said:
I re-read the original complaint, and had overlooked the fact that he uses 2 fingers to activate the clutch. The straight, full length design of the lever blades means that 2 presumably gloved fingers are trapped underneath, preventing the lever from coming within 3/4" of the bar. Perhaps the bike is functioning as designed.

Shorty levers, or possibly dog-leg levers may be an answer. With RLETs of course.
Click to expand...
Have we seen such an animal here at the Forum?
 
Oh I'll be telling everyone what the solution is when I find one. Even if it's me that is the problem. It's such a simple system I can't understand what the catch is. But we'll all know. Thanks for hangin' in with me on this.
TM
 
I replaced my clutch hose with a braided one. It took A LOT of pumping and vacuum to get the system bled properly. I pumped it with the top off about 20 times, then let the vacuum pull fluid through. I had to do this many times before I got good pressure.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
 
Geeez, who would have thought just bleeding a clutch woulda caused so much conversation?? Thanks to everyone who hung in there with this. I made some progress I believe, but I've been fooled before, LOL.
I installed a speed bleeder valve and bled some more, a lot more.3 masters full more. Feels a little better and I did get some bubs out the top but just a few. When the weather perks up a little this w/e I'll give it a try.
I'll report back with the outcome. TM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Does my 2013 CB100 REALLY have no clutch adjustment?
Replies
13
Views
1K
pekingduck
P
rdprdp01
2019 West Coast Rally Plans (Recreation)
Replies
0
Views
330
rdprdp01
rdprdp01
H
2014 Shift Lever Extension Modification, Replacement?
Replies
12
Views
1K
HeavyMetalMech_imp
H
J
Arthritis and Clutch Lever
2
Replies
37
Views
4K
michael1954
michael1954
Gone in 60
INT650
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
5K
GoldOxide_imp
G
Back
Top