check engine light stays on, on my 2017

[Houtman_imp]

A few days ago I did put the O2 sensor eliminators on my 2017 with less than good results , check engine light came on after about 50 miles.
yesterday I removed the eliminators (also from my 2014 ) and disconnected the batterie for 24 hours. Connected batterie but check engine light is still on , can I somehow get this light NOT to come on or is it a dealer solution with a special tester.
I am wondering if the 2017 (and perhaps also the 2014 ) are more sensitive to messing with the O2 sensor. I know many 2013 owners have one installed but are there any 2017 owners with O2 eliminators ? (or 2014 owners ) 2017 starts ok but did not have a change to ride it today.

 

[the Ferret]

Well that stinks. I personally don't much understand what drives guys to mess with modern Japanese fueling/ignition systems. They are such complicated and inter connected things worked out by very intelligent and educated engineers and for the most part work flawlessly as delivered from the factory.

Hope you get it sorted out Houtman.

 

[misterprofessionality]

this is one of the only reasons i was willing to put in a power commander. i was only willing to replace something that was meticulously engineered with something else that was meticulously engineered. Results were good.

Houtman, for my education, what sort of O2 eliminators did you put in? what's their purpose? other than eliminating the O2 sensors of course.

 

[Houtman_imp]

You are right Ferrett , I always say :you can not outsmart the Honda people and here I am !

this is one of the only reasons i was willing to put in a power commander. i was only willing to replace something that was meticulously engineered with something else that was meticulously engineered. Results were good.

Houtman, for my education, what sort of O2 eliminators did you put in? what's their purpose? other than eliminating the O2 sensors of course.

To be honest no real good reason as all my bikes were running good!
Bought the O2 eliminators from Redline Superbike to make them run a little better at very small throttle openings. I did feel an improvement on my 2013 but that one only has one O2 sensor and perhaps is less "fussy " Probably the main reason for all this is that I would like to have a 4 into 4 on my 2013 and thought I try to see how the bikes run without an O2 sensor. Some 4 into 4 systems have a bung for an O2 sensor.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

The ultimate motive to use of oxygen sensors is to minimize environment harming emissions. The sensor feedback is continuously consumed by the vehicle computer to optimize air-fuel mixture at all loads, or at least typical loads. To spoof the computer with a faux oxygen sensor is probably not optimal for most living species, but may for awhile enhance performance, or solve an exhaust need for bling. Calibrating with an oxygen sensor is supposed to, by way of vehicle engineering, optimize power output for a specified exhaust system.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Houtman,

You can read the code without the HDS (dealer tester) or a Healtech tester (I have one) by having the ECU flash the fault code using the check engine light. Read this post and give it try: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=10612&pid=169834#pid169834

First see what the code is and lets go from there. Do you have a shop manual? Where are you in NC?

 

[Houtman_imp]

Houtman,

You can read the code without the HDS (dealer tester) or a Healtech tester (I have one) by having the ECU flash the fault code using the check engine light. Read this post and give it try: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=10612&pid=169834#pid169834

First see what the code is and lets go from there. Do you have a shop manual? Where are you in NC?

I have all the shop manuals for the CB 1100's and live in Asheville , Western NC . You are very welcome to visit me ! I will read the article this morning but I am not very good with electronics at all !
Read the article and I am quite certain that the O2 sensor issue is the course of the MIL light staying on. I probably have to warn 2017 owners to be careful before messing with the O2 sensor. Is there a financial reward for being the first one to find a problem and preventing other riders to make this mistake ???

 

[Lord Popgun]

Houtman,

Section 5 of the manual tells how to read the codes without a Honda system tool. It also tells how to reset the stored code. Disconnecting the battery will not reset codes (That is a note in the manual, btw).

To reset manually the manual shows using a tool called the SCS connector. It is just a jumper wire. You can use a paper clip or a wire, BUT you have to short the correct pins. Right at this moment I don’t remember which pins. However Powerdubs or Max or someone did post it. I’ll have to search for that. OK, its shown in the manual for the ‘13-14. Wiring is the same for the ‘17 (I have the PGM-FI diagram for the ‘17). You have to short the pins with Green wire to Brown wire. Green is a ground wire. ENSURE to short it to the Brown wire or bad things may happen to your ECU.

Just read the directions. The jumper has to be installed at a specific point in the procedure.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

Houtman, I have a Honda SCS service connector. P/N 070PZ-ZY30100. Happy to lend it to you if you promise to return it when you're done. It's just a jumper cable and cost about $25.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Dang LR, I just remembered I have a connector kit with pins. I need to just make my own.

 

[Houtman_imp]

Houtman, I have a Honda SCS service connector. P/N 070PZ-ZY30100. Happy to lend it to you if you promise to return it when you're done. It's just a jumper cable and cost about $25.

Thank you for your kind offer ! I have to think about it , afraid that I screw things up even more if I use it wrongly !

 

[LongRanger_imp]

I used it when I calibrated the ECU on my Monkey to compensate for elevation, which made a noticeable difference in engine performance. I was a bit tentative but the Honda factory service manual was very clear on the process. If I could do it, and if you have the CB1100 service manual, I imagine you'd have no difficulty either. Anyway, the offer is open.

 

[Lord Popgun]

You can’t really mess it up Houtman. The procedure is just a couple lines. Not a big deal at all. And you can’t plug it on the wrong way.

 

[Houtman_imp]

You can’t really mess it up Houtman. The procedure is just a couple lines. Not a big deal at all. And you can’t plug it on the wrong way.

My electronic knowledge covers two things : I can switch on our computer and change the batteries in a digital alarm clock !
As I have a very good relation with our local Honda dealer I might take it there and have the yearly inspection done at the same time. Down the road I will look into doing some of this stuff myself and again thank you for the kind offer and help .

 

[max]

Houtman i assume you have returned the bike to normal, made sure the left sensor is in the left connector and not swapped whilst the bike was switched off, i don't know if that makes a difference but hee, etc.

The Reason the service connector is a good idea in your case like popgun says is that there are 4 wires in the red service connector, 12v, ground, comms " k " wire for the service tool and and another one, no point in mixing them up and connecting the 12v to the comms wire for instance, which is why i used a resistor in my case instead of just a link, both work, but with the service connector that problem is eliminated.

Usually if a fault is repaired/ fixed itself the cel goes off, it may be that the bike is programmed to stay on for certain faults, i don't know but the fault codes are still stored in memory and are used for future diagnosis by the service techs even if the fault has cleared itself, it's a diagnostic aid.

Have a look at this thread and see if it helps you understand what is required, watch the video several times if required to understand the sequence, lots of good advice in your thread and popgun is very good at what he does.

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12574&highlight=fault+codes

These fault codes are similar for most Honda models and follow a pattern, unless you know the fault code it can be anything, even unrelated things, i found the last entry in popgun's link the most interesting from itstuatran.

 

[Houtman_imp]

I am "quite" certain that the O2 sensor removal has something to do with the MIL staying on . Today I even removed the O2 sensor eliminator from my 2013 although that bike did run perfectly after putting the eliminator in. After knowing what the problem is on the 2017 I probably will put in the eliminator back in on the 2013.
My neighbors house is for sale and I would like to invite Popgun to buy it and be a friendly neighbor ! We live in a beautiful area with great riding.Thanks for all the help and advise from the Forum members.

 

[Houtman_imp]

The 2013 , 2014 and one side of the 2017 have the same O2 sensor but the second one on the 2017 has a different part number. After some emails between me and a O2 sensor eliminator supplier in the UK I found out that you can not use the earlier years eliminators for the 2017 , they fit but have a different value. Different software written for the 2017 ?

 

[the Ferret]

So are they sending you new ones?

 

[Houtman_imp]

I have taken ALL the eliminators of ALL my bikes till I take the 2017 for the yearly inspection and to see why the MIL stays on , they will scan for error codes coming from O2 sensor ???

 

[Lord Popgun]

Houtman,

You may know that I am also Lord Popgun here. We have a castle and everything (pics on the board) and barons and all. Like Ferret and cormanus and Peterbaron. Everyone is invited! So to move there we would need suitable quarters. Like, hummm, Biltmore House would do nicely! It has to be nice. If Guth shows up, well, it has to be nice. Real nice. He's the head dude ya know

Going on what you said about the sensors, I would guess that is why the check engine light is on.