Chain and Sprocket Options?

Yata-Garasu_imp

Running like a top
Thread starter
What are the different chain options available for our Elevens?

And what about sprockets? I've got a 2014 standard with the 6 speed gear box, and it could be geared a touch faster off the line... It's pretty quick as is, but my understanding is that the 2013 was actually geared a bit quicker.
 
Honda only offers the front and rear sprockets in one size each - 18 tooth front, 40 tooth rear. SunStar offers several options: 16, 17, and 18 tooth front, and 39, 41, 43, and 45 tooth for the rear. So you have several options if you want a little quicker acceleration. You can go smaller on the front sprocket, or larger on the rear sprocket. I don't know if you can change your sprocket size on this bike without affecting the length of the chain or not, but going one tooth shouldn't be a problem. There may be other options (vendors) out there for non-standard size sprockets. I am sure other members will respond who have actually installed non-standard size sprockets on their bikes.
 
Thread starter
Thanks for the replies. Would either of you gentlemen be willing to school me on motorcycle chains?

I'm not really sure I understand the differences and whether one type would be better than another on the CB1100.

Thanks in advance!
 
I have a 2013. I got 30k miles out of the first chain and sprockets, probably could have gotten a few more miles, but I had the parts and it was a rainy day.

Replaced with stock sizes. I thought about going with steeper gearing to reduce RPM at freeway speed, but I actually don't spend all that much time on the freeway so I chose to not make it complicated. ;)

530 is the chain size, recommend you get sealed; o, x, doesn't make much difference. Get a good brand like DID or EK, stay away from no names from questionable origin. Recommend you get a flare type master, stay away from the clip style links.

Stay with steel sprocket teeth; there are a lot of good brands out there. I went with Renthal all steel front and rear.

Probably a good idea to replace the rubber bumpers inside the rear hub when you replace the sprockets. Dont know if those wear out or loose elasticity, but I felt better replacing; new ones did feel a little bit "rubberier".

Plenty of good videos on Youtube showing all the tips and tricks. Good luck.
 
Thread starter
Thanks for the replies!

So a 530 size chain with 110 links.

I found it interesting that the 2013 came with a 39" rear sprocket, but the 2014 and after came with a 40" sprocket. Honda CB1100 (all models) 2013-2019 Sprockets & Chain Kits

Was the gearing all that different between 2013 and the later versions?

Also, Im thinking 30k miles on the chain... Should sprockets be replaced at that time as a matter of course? Or only if they're worn or I want a different ratio?
 
If you're replacing your own chain, and are using a rivet type master link, then you need to purchase a rivet installation tool. I highly recommend you watch some U-tube videos on how to replace your chain if you've never done this before. Your bike came with a rivet type master link, and you'll need special tools to remove it. I personally do not like the hand held tools that press the old pin out, and I use a small, hand held grinder that I use to grind the flared ends of the master link off, and then I use a punch to complete the job. When reinstalling your new master link there are two critical dimensions that you need to achieve: First, you need to squeeze the side plate on to the correct width. You can determine the correct width by measuring the width of the new chain link - using a caliper. Second, you must flair the rivet head to the correct diameter when you squeeze it with your installation tool. The chain manufacturer will define the correct diameter of the flared head. If you have never done this before, or if you don't have much experience working on things, then you may want to leave this job to the pros because an error can be costly, and potentially dangerous.
 
IIRC the rivet specs when flairing are in the service manual.
 
Interesting thread. I’m at 25 thousand miles on an 2013 and thinking about a new chain and sprockets for next year.
 
m in sc_imp said:
use a clip link, riveting sucks. if you don't trust the clip, (and i've never lost one fwiw) safety wire it. have 30+ years and 50+ bikes experience, never ever lost a masterlink clip. ever.
How do you safety wire a masterlink clip?
 
^^ +1 ^^, in my teen times, when wee used to race smaller cc bikes, we applied this method and it has never failed.
Motocross folks used it as well.
Just make sure that the clip head is pointing chain traveling direction!
 
I think the clip vs flare comes down to personal feelings.

I have a friend with a big KTM ADV that actually rides it off-road most of the time that has a clip master link - many miles no issues. I heard of a clip coming off a friend's motocross bike years ago - don't know if the clip was installed right or what displacement the bike was or how beat up it was. Bam! my feelings are set in stone at that moment, lol.

I like the fiddly process of flaring, I trust my work, and I have all the tools so that's what I did.
 
m in sc_imp said:
LIKE THIS OR SIMILAR.
This is awesome! This is a good old fashioned passing-on of knowledge. I really appreciate it! Thank you!
 
Hello, I read through this thread and really want to get more top end less RPM on the highway. Does anyone know of an offering for the 2013 CB1000 I have the stock setup front and rear sprockets. I saw where someone mentioned Sunstar sprockets but found no website for them or an offering for this model for sprockets, any help appreciated.
 
So sunstar only had the stock configuration of sprockets for the 2013 CB1100. Luckily someone posted about a place called rebelgears I called and placed an order for an 38 tooth custom made. The price is very reasonable for a custom made part, almost the same as if I bought a new one from partzilla (which also only has stock tooth config).
 
I plan on removing the swing arm for greasing so I will buy an endless chain and do both jobs together.
 
Buy OEM or good quality chain, otherwise will strech out and wear too fast. I think is 530.
After replacing the chain last time, I serviced it every 800 km or after every rainy ride and it's adjustment lasted 26,000 kms. So, proper service intervals make a big difference!!
I use wax, grease, gear oil or a combination of these and lube right after my ride when the chain is still warm.
 
Pauley_imp said:
I have a 2013. I got 30k miles out of the first chain and sprockets, probably could have gotten a few more miles, but I had the parts and it was a rainy day.

Replaced with stock sizes. I thought about going with steeper gearing to reduce RPM at freeway speed, but I actually don't spend all that much time on the freeway so I chose to not make it complicated. ;)

530 is the chain size, recommend you get sealed; o, x, doesn't make much difference. Get a good brand like DID or EK, stay away from no names from questionable origin. Recommend you get a flare type master, stay away from the clip style links.

Stay with steel sprocket teeth; there are a lot of good brands out there. I went with Renthal all steel front and rear.

Probably a good idea to replace the rubber bumpers inside the rear hub when you replace the sprockets. Dont know if those wear out or loose elasticity, but I felt better replacing; new ones did feel a little bit "rubberier".

Plenty of good videos on Youtube showing all the tips and tricks. Good luck.
I too felt the extra play in the cushion drive but my 'fix' was very cheap costing an old bicycle inner tube and an hour of my spare time. Some pics below showing the creation and fitting of five 'shims' which soaked up all the slop and are still working great after 10,000Kms ...

db0f0e1a56957dc2dbbf020e8a1c2b08.jpg


6d63ae605b0e384a9696daae0e3c3bee.jpg


615e9ebde91c72689ff33b5fb0d4241b.jpg


4793fa231a11ba388988d9e93a32b993.jpg


5b8a216e556d6ddc15c1cca285adc31d.jpg
 
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