Chain Adjustment

[holy666diver_imp]

So the only thing i have yet to do is adjust my chain. I don't think it's out of spec yet but does anyone have a visual tutorial on how to adjust your chain? This has me paranoid I'll mess something up. It's my first chain driven bike and I don't want to have to go to my mechanic every 500 miles.

 

[the Ferret]

Mine got it's first adjustment at 8400 miles. These new chains don't require much adjustment. I don't think there is a pic tute for that although in the how to do the 600 mile service post 1 (last 2 pics) shows how to measure it, 1/2 way between the sprockets

How To do your own 600 mile service

this may help also..info and pics on page 3

Home-made chain adjustment tool

but to adjust if it needs it, put bike on center stand, loosen axle nut on right side (size depends on it its a 13 or 14), turn adjustment bolts (8mm wrench) an equal number of turns (probably less than 1/4 turn will be needed) Check slack and check to make sure alignment marks are the same on both sides, when slack is correct from 1" to 1.4" and marks are same on both sides, tighten axle nut.

 

[redbirds_imp]

Most of my bikes have been chain drive and there's no problem doing adjustments. The main thing to avoid is getting the chain too tight. A chain that is a little bit slack will not really cause any problems. A chain that is too tight can cause bearing damage by placing undue strain on the axle and front sprocket shaft.

If you follow the guide in the owners manual you'll be fine. Remember to measure your slack at the midpoint between the front and rear sprockets. When making the adjustment, turn the axle adjusters in small increments doing the same amount of turn on each side. You'll be surprised at how little is needed to take out the extra slack. Be sure your alignment marks are even on each side and re-tighten the axle nut. Check the slack again and you should be good. A handy tool is available from Motion Pro that attaches to the rear sprocket. A guide rod on the tool will show you when your chain is aligned with the rear sprocket.

 

[DGShannon_imp]

Important thing to remember is, that due to geometry, the chain gets tighter as the suspension compresses (swingarm travels up). The is why leaving a certain amount of slack in the chain is important. You are not making your adjustments at the point where the chain will be at it's tightest.

 

[holy666diver_imp]

Okay great I'll measure tonight. i am really good about cleaning and lubing it. i just hit 2200 miles today.

 

[Motogeezer1949_imp]

Eric's CB just got a new rear tire at 8300 miles. Mechanic said chain didn't need to be adjusted.

 

[TINK_imp]

Be sure to check your initial factory chain adjustment as soon as possible. In my case the chain was adjusted too tight at 2.0 miles on the odometer. Don't assume the factory or dealer setup of your chain correctly.

 

[treytexag_imp]

Be sure to check your initial factory chain adjustment as soon as possible. In my case the chain was adjusted too tight at 2.0 miles on the odometer. Don't assume the factory or dealer setup of your chain correctly.

I was wondering about this. My chain seems VERY tight - bike has 50 miles on it now - 23 when I bought it new from the dealer.

In the ferret's post above, he says . . . ."but to adjust if it needs it, put bike on center stand, loosen axle nut on right side (size depends on it its a 13 or 14), turn adjustment bolts (8mm wrench) an equal number of turns (probably less than 1/4 turn will be needed) Check slack and check to make sure alignment marks are the same on both sides, when slack is correct from 1" to 1.4" and marks are same on both sides, tighten axle nut.".

Does this mean that the chain should not be tighter than the minimum 1 inch "small" end of the range shown? IOW's, if the correctly measured slack on my "new" chain is less than 1 inch, I should loosen it up?

 

[redbirds_imp]

Be sure to check your initial factory chain adjustment as soon as possible. In my case the chain was adjusted too tight at 2.0 miles on the odometer. Don't assume the factory or dealer setup of your chain correctly.

I was wondering about this. My chain seems VERY tight - bike has 50 miles on it now - 23 when I bought it new from the dealer.

In the ferret's post above, he says . . . ."but to adjust if it needs it, put bike on center stand, loosen axle nut on right side (size depends on it its a 13 or 14), turn adjustment bolts (8mm wrench) an equal number of turns (probably less than 1/4 turn will be needed) Check slack and check to make sure alignment marks are the same on both sides, when slack is correct from 1" to 1.4" and marks are same on both sides, tighten axle nut.".

Does this mean that the chain should not be tighter than the minimum 1 inch "small" end of the range shown? IOW's, if the correctly measured slack on my "new" chain is less than 1 inch, I should loosen it up?

I was wondering about this. My chain seems VERY tight - bike has 50 miles on it now - 23 when I bought it new from the dealer.

In the ferret's post above, he says . . . ."but to adjust if it needs it, put bike on center stand, loosen axle nut on right side (size depends on it its a 13 or 14), turn adjustment bolts (8mm wrench) an equal number of turns (probably less than 1/4 turn will be needed) Check slack and check to make sure alignment marks are the same on both sides, when slack is correct from 1" to 1.4" and marks are same on both sides, tighten axle nut.".

Does this mean that the chain should not be tighter than the minimum 1 inch "small" end of the range shown? IOW's, if the correctly measured slack on my "new" chain is less than 1 inch, I should loosen it up?
Yes, less than inch is too tight

 

[dave]

Mr Ferret, you got 8,400 miles before you adjusted your chain? I've got 5,300 miles on my bike and have adjusted the chain twice, and it's due for its third adjustment. I do NOT ride my bike hard and put undue stress on the chain, and I keep it lubricated with Chain Wax (which I have used successfully for the past 15 years). I find that my CB1100 is the MOST sensitive bike I have ever owned when it comes to chain adjustment. Just a tiny bit looser than the recommended adjustment and the first-to-second gear shifts will almost certainly result in a loud "clunk". When I adjusted my chain the first time I turned the adjuster bolts exactly 1 turn each. On my second adjustment I turned the adjuster bolts exactly 1/2 turn each. This tiny bit of adjustment almost completely cures the first-to-second gear shift noise.

 

[flynrider]

Be sure to check your initial factory chain adjustment as soon as possible. In my case the chain was adjusted too tight at 2.0 miles on the odometer. Don't assume the factory or dealer setup of your chain correctly.

I was wondering about this. My chain seems VERY tight - bike has 50 miles on it now - 23 when I bought it new from the dealer.

In the ferret's post above, he says . . . ."but to adjust if it needs it, put bike on center stand, loosen axle nut on right side (size depends on it its a 13 or 14), turn adjustment bolts (8mm wrench) an equal number of turns (probably less than 1/4 turn will be needed) Check slack and check to make sure alignment marks are the same on both sides, when slack is correct from 1" to 1.4" and marks are same on both sides, tighten axle nut.".

Does this mean that the chain should not be tighter than the minimum 1 inch "small" end of the range shown? IOW's, if the correctly measured slack on my "new" chain is less than 1 inch, I should loosen it up?

Definitely. If it's too tight it will accelerate chain and sprocket wear.

I did my first adjustment at around 4K miles. In the first 2K miles it stretched close to the loose end of the spec, then it went another 2K with almost no stretching. I've always kept mine around the loose end of the spec to minimize wear and adjustments.

 

[Lord Popgun]

I checked mine when new and it was OK but needed adjustment at the 600 mile check.

 

[TINK_imp]

So, let's talk about those chain adjuster markings...
Before you rely on the accuracy of the marks on the chain adjusters, be sure to check your rear wheels alignment.
I have found that the adjuster makes may not be symmetrical.
The old rear wheel string alignment is the best way to assure your chain adjuster marks are accurate.

 

[Randy B]

Important thing to remember is, that due to geometry, the chain gets tighter as the suspension compresses (swingarm travels up). The is why leaving a certain amount of slack in the chain is important. You are not making your adjustments at the point where the chain will be at it's tightest.

Unless of course this is your regular riding...lol

 

[Cormanus]

That sprocket looks like the blade that got stolen from my saw!

 

[redbirds_imp]

So, let's talk about those chain adjuster markings...
Before you rely on the accuracy of the marks on the chain adjusters, be sure to check your rear wheels alignment.
I have found that the adjuster makes may not be symmetrical.
The old rear wheel string alignment is the best way to assure your chain adjuster marks are accurate.

Very good point. I checked the wheel alignment on my CB at the first chain adjustment and the ledger marks were spot on. The adjuster marks on my Triumph Tiger were off however.