CB1100 2017 - Break in the engine

[mrbi0_imp]

Hi everyone,

After leaving my "old" '14 CB110 at a dealer and bringing the new 2017, I just wanted to give some feedback on the engine break in:

1. Normal break-in, not going above 3500RPM for the first 500km and avoiding free ways and traffic. You can read it in other posts and a lot of info online on how to proper break-in an engine
2. At 80km a slight scare when I noticed what seemed to be a very small oil driping in the engine. Turn out to be nothing (although I'm still very vigilant) and, suposely, due to the products applied to the engine that melted with the heat
3. First 100-200Km the engine was always crazy hot not dissipading as I was used to in the '14 CB. 2h outside, stopped, at around 15º and still some heat in the engine. Also normal, don't freak out, after 100-200Km started dissipading normally
4. Noticed that the fuel consumption has been around 4.9L / 100Km (around 48 MPG) which is the lower consumption I've managed to do with the '14 (and I admit that I tend to speed...) - with the engine so new and barely out of break-in I expect it to consume even lower than this

Let me know if you have any questions

 

[dwcurton_imp]

If you don't plan on keeping it any longer than you kept the 2014, then just ride the heck out of it for a day, change the oil. Ride hard for 2 or 3 days, change the oil again. Then you're done.
Oh yeah, congrats on the new bike. Hope you enjoy it!!

 

[mrbi0_imp]

If you don't plan on keeping it any longer than you kept the 2014, then just ride the heck out of it for a day, change the oil. Ride hard for 2 or 3 days, change the oil again. Then you're done.
Oh yeah, congrats on the new bike. Hope you enjoy it!!

I'm doing it by the book and I plan on having this one for many many years...

(maybe a little side project with a CX500 ou CX650, but this one stays )

 

[Snakie66_imp]

Hi, picked up my new 2017 CB1100 yesterday. My Honda dealer never mentioned anything about a break in period (oops), just that 1st service was 600 miles or 6 months which ever comes first. Emmm ...,,,,, less than 3500 rpms (oops) I couldnt stop riding it the past 2 days and just love that 1st gear climb up and down in town .... Iv'e managed to keep the speed down below 80 mph today in the country (130kmh ...ishhh). It's a bike that really brings a big smile to my face and I find it a real joy to ride .... hope Iv'e not done any damage. :biker:

 

[the Ferret]

Snakie.. Welcome to the forum. PLease drop into new members and introduce yourself. I don't think you could hurt this engine unless you ran it without oil lol

 

[Macduff_imp]

The 2017 UK (E Code version) handbook is remarkedly light touch for running in . It advises for 1st 300 miles to avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration, avoid hard braking , rapid downshifts and to ride conservatively. No mention of adhering to reduce rpm limits. My dealer when handing mine over advised to stick to 5~6K Rpm maximum for the 1st 600 miles and to vary engine speed and gears used as much as possible during same period, seems to be more based on their views than Honda's formal requirements. My previous recent new bike purchases all had far more rigorous running in procedures in both RPM limits and miles to be covered before RPM ranges used could be increased (none were Hondas) .

 

[Cormanus]

That minimalist approach to running in has been the case since 2010.

 

[Nortoon_imp]

Riding no higher than 3500 RPM during break-in isn't hard on the CB1100. No matter what speed I am riding at it always seems to be loafing between 2500 and 3500 RPM.

 

[chync_imp]

There are 2 schools of thought on this from what I have read online. One is to take it easy as recommended in the manuals. The concern some have with this method is glazing on the cylinder walls that could prevent the rings from seating properly. The other school seems to be a methodical rev-ing of the engine up to a couple thousand RPM's short of the red line and easing the engine back down. Then repeating this a few times in between letting the engine cool down a bit. The risk of this method is running the engine too hard and seizing the engine. Both methods are intended to seat the rings properly. Both can go wrong. I have tried both methods on different new bikes. I tried the more aggressive method on my CB1100. I'm at 20k miles and it has never burned oil, has had consistent gas mileage, and plenty of power. It has been put on a dyno so I have a measurement on the power (93hp with mods). If you dig around online there are some knowledgeable techs that have written some detailed articles on all of it and I found it to be interesting to read. I would stick to the OEM procedure unless you are willing to do some research. You do have to wade through the anecdotal content to find the articles written by people with real experience. One of the best articles was written by a guy that broke in two motorcycles using both methods and then disassembled the engine heads to examine the rings and valves to see the difference. I wish I could find that article again but a quick search didn't come up for me. It was his article that inspired me to use the more aggressive method. But it was a method with some specific guidelines and procedures.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

On a modern machine, I really don't think it matters whatsoever. Just keep the oil changed and ride it however you want.


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[Wisedrum]

I've rode several cars and motorbikes in. Never spend too many thoughts on how to do it, just rode them the way I mostly ride them. Let them warm up and don't rev or accelerate them hard. Simply let them go along easily and smoothly.

I've read some articles about the way an engine develops its real power and potential by demanding and encouraging performance right from the get go.

My main interest lays in a vehicle, that will last over a long time, not creating high costs in mantainance, is reliable and a proper workhorse all the time. Not kind of a nervous thing, that may have developed the one or how many extra HPs by being treated harder, if it will ever do so.....

Interesting enough, my Prius 4 didn't need an oil change after 1.000km but the Honda and Kawa did.
Different philosophies of different producers.

Although my theory of running an engine, a whole vehicle really in, so it will run in this mentioned easy- and smoothness, is questionable, but for me it takes a whole lot more miles of riding than the suggested ones of the manufacturers.

Wisedrum

 

[JimTT_imp]

I believe (and so do the engine builders I know) that combustion pressure is necessary to seat the rings. You can't get combustion pressure without aggressive throttle opening. If you are familiar with the CBR 1000RR (2008 and on) oil burning issue I think the problem engines did not seat the rings. Mine never burned a drop of oil because it was broken in correctly. This does not mean you should run wide open for a 1/4 mile but rather apply goodly amount of throttle then back off and engine break (which sucks oil to the top end). With today's manufacturing tolerances break in is not even necessary in some engines. Most race engines are broken in on the dyno with a number of strong pulls to seat the rings. Heat is the main issue and so avoiding extended high RPM running and steady state RPM high speed cruising is needed until several head cycles have occurred. I also change the oil before the 600 mile service and always have because I want the metal shavings out after the aggressive break in method I use. Honda years ago placed RPM / speed restrictions in their break in instructions; not anymore.

 

[Guth_imp]

JimTT, the local shop owner that I know who previously worked for Honda Racing Corporation (he was a technician for Miguel Duhamel) told me much of the same. It seems that engine manufacturing is so different now than it was a number of decades ago. His take was basically to make sure that you got the engine good and warm and then don't be afraid of revving it up into higher RPMs while accelerating, but to still avoid the steady state RPMs for extended periods of time.

 

[emptysea]

Recommendations from two different Honda mechanics regarding breaking in the motor "Ride it like you normally do, but remember that you have new tires, so you may want to take it a little easy for the first 100 miles--for the tires, not for the engine" (quote is paraphrased)

 

[JimTT_imp]

Guth, I know some of those HRC mechanics of Yore, my race engine background is more in the car world but anyway Break in is a topic that is only slightly less debated than oil. The bottom line for me is that all the engine builders in my experience follow the combustion pressure path.

 

[Guth_imp]

Yeah, people can take in all of this info, but ultimately we each need to do whatever we feel the most comfortable with. I share the information that has been presented to me by someone who I greatly respect so that others have a similar "data point" to consider and nothing more.

Personally, I'd guess that as advancements in manufacturing technology continue on with time it will probably matter less and less how the break-in is carried out.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Agreed- let the engine warm up is 100% most important- no point in a quickly expanding aluminum piston ground into a slower expanding cyl block,..

But once it's warm for a 5 min ride or so- have at it in short bursts. Let er scrub burnish for a nice even fit.

People that are afraid to get on the throttle for fear of hurting an engine have no idea about said engine. Same goes for cars, bikes, etc.

It is no lie to say that a gingerly low rpm driven vehicle is worse than a spiritedly driven one as long as it is allowed to warm up and oil change not neglected.

Don't believe? Even on Ebay in the past few months there was a CB1100 cyl head and pistons-pictures from a supposed 3k mile bike being parted out- combustion chambers, pistons crowns, valve pockets- all covered in black carbon. Not ideal.

 

[the Ferret]

I was always taught to break them in just how you intend to ride the, you don't have to baby them, and you don't need to abuse them. just ride them.

I do like to warm them up for a minute or two when cold, and I do change the oil on time, other than that I don't worry much about it. My ST and CB were both zero miles purchased new. I have put every mile on both. the St has just over 93,000 the CB just under 35,000. neither uses or burns oil. Also neither has been over 6,000 rpms in their life.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

93k? Holy crap


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[the Ferret]

Thats nothing on an ST lol