Breathe Easier

I am still puzzled by the view of the interior of the air filter. How does that work?
[/QUOTE]

It looks to me like the gold piece replaces the OE cover. That opening is the new intake port. Riding in heavy rain might be trouble?
 
So the stock cover goes onto the gold cover? Or what covers the inside of the filter preventing the air flow from entering the inside of filter?
 
736cc_imp said:
So the stock cover goes onto the gold cover? Or what covers the inside of the filter preventing the air flow from entering the inside of filter?
Click to expand...
the inside is the outside. The outside of the filter is the clean side. Air enters the big hole, goes through the filter to engine.
 
736cc_imp said:
Here are installation instructions. Not exactly bolt-on for the throttle body inlets as the assembly must be removed.
I am still puzzled by the view of the interior of the air filter. How does that work?
http://www.tsrjp.com/web/pdf/17200-S65-000.pdf
Click to expand...
It looks like you pull the cover off the filter and have the air filter end completely open, versus sucking air through the "snorkel." Dismantling the throttle bodies doesn't look like much fun...
 
Flynrider_imp said:
Most of the dyno charts I've seen for the stock bike have shown RWHP around 83-84 hp. Factory measurements are usually taken at the crank and you can expect a the loss of a few horses in the drive line.

Given that, low to mid 80s at the rear wheel are about what I would have expected to see with a factory claim of 88 at the crank.

The other thing that I've noticed while looking at the various charts that have been posted on the 'net is that opening up the exhaust and adding a PC shows pretty good gains across the powerband, with about 10 hp total at the top.
Click to expand...
That's odd. That would make this bike's transmission and sprocket/chain system the most efficient on Earth (or Honda is lying about net HP). The drive train usually accounts for 10-15% loss from net (which would yield about 74-80hp, which is what the posted dyno results show). Net horsepower is always measured at the crank. The dyno results in this thread are the only I've seen, however, they are inline with what I would have expected. Who knows.
 
Depends on the drive. Chain drives are pretty efficient. I'd expect a loss in the 15% range for a shaft drive, though. Too many 90 degree turns.

I haven't dynoed my CB1100, but my CB750 managed to put 63 horses at the rear wheel from a claimed 68 at the crank. Other charts for the same bike were in the same ballpark.

I've got a collection of charts for stock CB1100's that I've collected from various sources on the Internet. Most of them peak in the neighborhood of 83. I don't count the ones where they didn't pull the speedo sensor and hit the limiter.

Found a couple on this laptop small enough to attach :
 
Yes we do......

TSR has this link to the Power Commander map they used with the intake parts and exhaust.

http://shop.tsrjp.com/item/IS00008N00490.html

I couldn't get the translated page to fly, it's the last blue link on the page and has a PVM in it.
The dyno chart shown and has all 5 parts on the bike for those results. I'd say between the cat and the intake, our poor motor just needs to breeeeth.
 
That map is the same as the stock map except in 6 cells. At 40% throttle,5250 rpm the 9 goes to 12.... 5500, the 8 to 15, at 5750, 6 to 15. At 60% throttle at 5250, 10 to 12. At 5500 10 to 15, at 5750 8 to 15.

100% & 80% 20%, 15% 10% 5% 2% 0% are the same for all values.

possible I guess, but with intake and exhaust " freed up", it seems fishy that there's no change in fuelling at least for wot.
 
Deanohh_imp said:
That map is the same as the stock map except in 6 cells. At 40% throttle,5250 rpm the 9 goes to 12.... 5500, the 8 to 15, at 5750, 6 to 15. At 60% throttle at 5250, 10 to 12. At 5500 10 to 15, at 5750 8 to 15.

100% & 80% 20%, 15% 10% 5% 2% 0% are the same for all values.

possible I guess, but with intake and exhaust " freed up", it seems fishy that there's no change in fuelling at least for wot.
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting that, I was unable to view it. Fishy indeed......
 
Roadscum_imp said:
Show me the torque curve, not the HP curve. Please....

Paul
Click to expand...
Why? The HP curve is what's important. If you must, you can calculate the torque curve based on what you see in the graph.
 
I'll beg to differ. Torque is very important and for city driving; more important than HP. Torque is what you feel (or don't as in the case of my CB350F) when you open the throttle. Boat loads of torque down low is much more useful than HP, especially if that HP is available only at high rpms.
I'll add that the shape of the torque curve is very important too. Factory curves of the CB are pretty darn flat over the entire hp/rpm range.
 
Both HP and torque are important ..too much torque and not enough HP is a Harley, too much HP and not enough torque is a Kawasaki Mach 3. Somewhere in the middle is where I like to be.
 
Agreed. I'll add that you want to match the riding you do to the torque and HP curve to the riding you expect. Trail riding, mountain twisties and Harley torque is ideal. Wide open Dakota freeways, not so much.

I tend to favor the higher torque less HP side but that is the Guzzi and dirt bike experience coming out in me. :)
 
Can you imagine riding the new Superduke 1290.. 180 hp 416 pounds. Yiiiiiiii
 
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