Break-in is over

[Rocky_imp]

Yesterday I completed the break-in period and changed the oil and filter.
I had loosened the oil drain plug a few weeks ago to drain off a little oil since the level was above the upper mark in the sight glass. It was extremely tight and seemed to me it was well above the recommended torque level. No problem this time.
The oil filter was on so tight I didn't think I was going to get it off. I use a strap wrench on oil filters, but I couldn't get it to budge. Then I remembered I had an oil filter wrench that fits on the flutes of the filter and was able to break it loose, but man oh man, I thought I was going to crush the filter first!! Way, way too tight!!
Now that the break-in is over I can ride the bike like it was intended to be ridden.
BTW, FYI, I Used 10W-30 from a 4 litre jug and filled the crankcase to the upper level mark. The jug is marked in litres and US pints. The oil left in the jug is half one US pint.

 

[shdwghst457_imp]

I had the same experience with the filter. Thought I was going to make the bike do a barrel roll from how hard I was turning it! We tried the rubber strap, channel locks, a rain dance, but finally crushing it and turning it with the channel locks got it off. I bought an oil filter cup from the dealer beforehand to make it easier, but it didn't clear the headers! Glad your operation was successful.

Now to argue about 10W-30 vs 10W-40!

 

[Rocky_imp]

I had the same experience with the filter. Thought I was going to make the bike do a barrel roll from how hard I was turning it! We tried the rubber strap, channel locks, a rain dance, but finally crushing it and turning it with the channel locks got it off. I bought an oil filter cup from the dealer beforehand to make it easier, but it didn't clear the headers! Glad your operation was successful.

Now to argue about 10W-30 vs 10W-40!

No, no, please, not that

 

[the Ferret]

Many have complained the filter too tight and the oil drain plug too loose lol

For a 13 or a 14 std a channel locks type oil filter wrench coming in from left side of bike seems like the best solution for the oil filter

For a 14 deluxe, coming straight in from the center between the pipes with wheel turned using the factory cup type filter wrench seems to be the best solution

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

My first oil and filter change will be coming up within the week.
It's good to know what ordeal I may experience in advance.

I'm going to try putting a little WD-40 on the oil filter seal first, before I try to remove it to see if that helps. Perhaps the rubber filter seal is drying out from the heat and locking the filter in place against the block.

I'll be using K&N Model: KN-204 filters with the 17mm hex-nut on the end. Torquing and removing that type of filter has been easy when I used it on previous bikes.

 

[Greg_imp]

At my most recent oil change I put in a magnetic drain plug. If anyone else has done this I'm curious if it trapped any steel particles.

 

[CB4ME_imp]

Seems a lot of CBs have super tight oil filters when purchased. Factory or dealer phenomeon?

My filter was a bee itch at 600 miles. Replacement filter one had a generously lubed ring and hand tightened. When changed again, it seemed a lot tighter than when put on but not as bad as the 1st change.

 

[Todd_K_imp]

Congrats on surviving to your first oil change! My 600 mile check and lube was today as well. Filter was snug, but came off without too much force. Drain plug was surprisingly loose. Everything else was within spec. The parts kid at the dealer set me up with a filter and four quarts of what I thought were 10w-30. I didn't bother to confirm and only learned today that I got suckered into 40 weight. Fully expecting to have my engine blow at any moment. :rofl:

 

[the Ferret]

LOL...stand back!

 

[Lord Popgun]

Todd,

It won't blow up, obvioulsy, but some have reported a tapping or knocking noise or some such that quit when switched back to 10w30. YMMV.

You can read about it in the oil threads. And when you do you will know why ferret said "stand back!"

 

[flynrider]

Seems a lot of CBs have super tight oil filters when purchased. Factory or dealer phenomeon?

My filter was a bee itch at 600 miles. Replacement filter one had a generously lubed ring and hand tightened. When changed again, it seemed a lot tighter than when put on but not as bad as the 1st change.

If I recall correctly from last years threads, the '13s tended to come from the factory with over torqued filters and under torqued drain plugs. Mine followed that trend. I used the Honda cap wrench on a 2 ft. breaker bar to get the filter off. The drain plug seems like it took about a ft./lb. to loosen.

Second time around everything felt just right.

 

[MFGUSA_imp]

My 600 miles are in as well and my filter was tight too.
Sorry guys, hard to get excited about changing Oil- or even talking about it. Wait!...No chips or fragments in the Oil, just the typical swirly halo sheen on top. That's kind of exciting.

 

[Todd_K_imp]

Todd,

It won't blow up, obvioulsy, but some have reported a tapping or knocking noise or some such that quit when switched back to 10w30. YMMV.

You can read about it in the oil threads. And when you do you will know why ferret said "stand back!"

It was those legendary oil threads that prompted the comment .

Like everyone else, my CB came with too much oil from the factory. Refilled with 3.5 quarts and ran the bike. No leaks. Eventually added the remaining oil and the level is now right at the top line. Cool. I did have a decent number of aluminum flakes in the dregs of my oil pan. My motor must have been assembled on Friday. :beerchug:

 

[MFGUSA_imp]

..can we beat them like rented mules now?

 

[redbirds_imp]

A first for me and a new bike, the oil filter came off easily and the drain plug seemed just right.....Crankcase was overfilled though. My wife's '07 V-strom called for a very large pipe wrench to remove the filter after I had exhausted all other means to remove it including driving a screw driver through the filter case.

This tool will remove the most stubborn oil filters with minimum effort. Get it from NAPA. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-Wrench-Nylon-Strap/_/R-BK_7769017_0006475848

A heavy duty strap wrench with 1/2" drive.

 

[Rocky_imp]

I had read other posts a while back about tight drain plugs and oil filters which is why I posted my findings.
Everything is back together and tightened reasonably so I won't have any problems next time.
My strap wrench easily removes any oil filters I've replaced myself on any of my bikes.

 

[CA200_imp]

As I remember from when the forum started a lot of the 13s had loose drain plugs and oil filters like mine. I did try the magnet ring on
my oil filter and unlike my other new bikes got no metal at all on it. One Kawasaki had a lot and had one new Kawasaki that almost
plugged the oil filter with gasket sealer waste. Guess Honda just does it better.

 

[Ridem32_imp]

When removing any oil filter once you start turning the oil filter if it don't turn just keep the same amount of pressure on your wrench and go slow it will break the seal that's holding it. If you bow up on it hard and fast the filter will crush! Always put oil on the new filter with finger next oil change it will come rite off.

 

[shdwghst457_imp]

When removing any oil filter once you start turning the oil filter if it don't turn just keep the same amount of pressure on your wrench and go slow it will break the seal that's holding it. If you bow up on it hard and fast the filter will crush! Always put oil on the new filter with finger next oil change it will come rite off.

Yep, good to help it make that seal too.

 

[Rocky_imp]

When removing any oil filter once you start turning the oil filter if it don't turn just keep the same amount of pressure on your wrench and go slow it will break the seal that's holding it. If you bow up on it hard and fast the filter will crush! Always put oil on the new filter with finger next oil change it will come rite off.

10-4, always do that to lube the O-ring.