Bike wouldn't start today.. bad battery?

PowderToastMan_imp

Been there
Thread starter
Hey guys.
I last rode two weekends ago, was out of town last weekend and didn't get to ride, and haven't been riding on weekdays since I've been carpooling with the wife.

Was going to go for a short spin today but the bike wouldn't start.. the starter motor made its sound for a fraction of a second and then went dead. My assumption was that the battery just needed to be topped up so I ran out and got a tender, and put the battery on charge while I watched a movie.

Tender said the battery was full after a couple hours, and I thought "wow that was fast" and went ahead and popped it back in and gave it another try only to find the same result.

Is it most likely that my battery is totally bad and this will be remedied by grabbing a new one, or do I have another problem with the stator or something?\

Edit -- Addendum:
The starter system has been a little quirky ever since I've had the bike. On the first start of the day it would start like normal, and on subsequent starts the starter motor would give a really short sound and then quit right away, but still enough to start the engine just fine.. a little weird, but I didn't pay much mind since the bike always started just fine otherwise.

Cheers!
 
Thread starter
Rolls_imp said:
Do you remember whether the headlight was shining brightly either time?
Didn't seem like it was very bright, no.
The neutral indicator was pretty dim after I attempted to start the bike, and the console would reset itself after I pressed the starter, as well.
 
Ouch. My initial impression was a bum battery. It may be worth taking it to Autozone and having them perform a free load test on the battery. Most often, you'll have to leave it with them for about an hour. Also, make sure it hasn't been on the tender for at least a few hours as that can alter the reading. That's at least a start that won't cost you anything but time.

Your edit makes me think it's something other than your battery. Your troubles with starting are not normal and should not be happening. If your bike is still under warranty, I'd take it in and have them sort it out. Chasing electrical gremlins is no fun (something I've been doing on my '07 VFR). A bad stator would be highly unusual because I haven't seen anyone on this forum with mileage high enough to expect one to go unless you happened to have a bad regulator/rectifier. And even that is unusual on a bike as news as ours (assuming you have either a '13 or '14).

There's a step-by-step process that someone over at the VFR forum entitled "The Drill." It is designed to help you diagnose electrical issues. You'll need a multimeter, a notebook and pencil. And some patience. But again, use that warranty if you have it! Let me know if you'd like me to track down "the drill" and, if so, I'll post it here.
 
Thread starter
Now that I think of it, last time I started the bike two weeks ago it also seemed a little weak at that time but still started up, so I didn't think anything of it.
 
An easy thing to check that could diminish starting/charging goodness is your battery terminals. If you haven't already, maybe do a quick check to ensure the cables are snug at the battery terminals. Super easy variable to eliminate.
 
PowderToastMan_imp said:
Now that I think of it, last time I started the bike two weeks ago it also seemed a little weak at that time but still started up, so I didn't think anything of it.
Sounds like a weak battery, you can't (not recommended) jump the bike either, to check the charging system. I would buy a new battery and while your at it check the charging system and see if your putting out about 14.2V at 5000rpms.
 
Sounds like a battery that is too weak either from age or it has a bad cell, and a tender may mask the issue and then it soon fails again.

Just a thought- did you or maybe a previous owner connect some extra farkles? If so, I'd check those connections or wires that may have been spliced into whether the farkle is still present or not.
 
Check for bad ground connections, dodgy side stand switch or clutch switch. A defective battery can reach "full charge" reading on a battery tender but will fall off sharply when a load is applied; my riding mower battery did this last week and had to be replaced.
 
Batteries are also covered under the bike manufactures and their own (Yuasa's) warranties. Check your manual it's either one or two years on batteries.
 
Mine went down after sitting for about 3 weeks so I took the advice from this forum,

bought a HONDA OPTIMATE 3+ BATTERY OPTIMIZER, installed a pig tail and plug it in every time I get off of it.

I did install a 5V USB and 12V outlet on the handle bars that could be causing the trouble, but now I don't have to worry about it, it's ready every time I get on it!
 
Thread starter
Thanks guys,
My first reaction was that it would be the battery itself first rather than stator or rectifier or bad connections. And, pulling the battery out and putting it back in the terminals were totally fine.
I guess the rest of the metal on the bike should be grounded so I can test the minus lead with anything else metal, but I dunno about the plus. But since the console comes on and the lights come on I am inclined to think that the connections are just fine, too. And if a fuse was blown then the circuit would be open and nothing should come on at all and the starter motor wouldn't have made that little bit of noise on first try.

After charging on the tender it does show 12.74V on my cheapo multimeter with no load, I will take it to PepBoys or the dealership in the morning on the way to work and have them do a load test for me.

The Yuasa batteries online say one year warranty (I'm a little past a year and a half with the bike) but I'll see if I can figure out if it's covered under Honda's warranty (or maybe the extended warranty, I was a sucker and bought that.. but if it covers a battery that otherwise goes for 140 bucks then that's a good chunk of it right there).

No previous owner to speak of and I haven't made any mods to the bike, though I was considering putting in a splice to the battery so I could eventually use a heated vest next winter.. Haven't gotten around to it or had enough time to ride this winter to care.
 
Put the multi-meter on the terminals and hit the start button and see what happens. I think you have other issues going on.
 
Im betting it's the battery. I had a similar problem in the last two years with both my Harley and my KLR. A new battery solved the problem. I'd recommend putting a tender lead on the bike when you install the new battery and plugging it in every time it's parked. A battery 'should' last more than 18 months. Good luck.
 
Thread starter
Thanks! I am suspecting the battery was not very great to begin with.
Unfortunately I don't have a place to plug in while the bike is parked, but from here on out I will either be riding more, or if I continue my habit of not riding to work for the time being, I can maybe pull the battery and keep it on the tender during the week and then install it on the weekend when I'm going to go out for a ride.. or just go for a couple evening rides throughout the week for the sake of firing it up.
 
Thread starter
Thanks for the responses, guys.
I took the battery into a dealer and had them do a load test, which showed that the battery was toast.
Bought a new one, popped it in, and she started right up. I think we can call it case closed.

I'll just have to not let it sit for too long from here on out!
 
Good deal. These darn maintenance free batteries are really good in that you never have to check fluid level, or add distilled water, but it seems to me when they give it up they give it up quickly and in a weird way compared to their slowly dying lead acid cousins.
 
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